BROlando

I have deemed that my 2G wagon needs a camber kit for the rear.

Even mildly lowered, it sits with -2.7ish to -3ish degrees.

Even with the toe in spec, the rear tyres tend to cup and wear the inner edge a little bit. I am guessing this is because Acura designed so much effing bumpsteer into the rear suspension with that wacky lateral arm/hub carrier arrangement.

Anyway.

I am decided on the SPC kit.

I am trying to figure out whether I should buy just the camber arms (I'll be fine with a 1 degree change).... or if I shoul go massively complex with the 3pc kit.

My apprehension with buying just the camber arm is that it may not fix the excessive bumpsteer because the setback arm will still be stock. So I might still get excess tyre wear even if the camber angle is more straight and static toe is set to 0.

My worry with the 3pc set is that its going to be a pain in the ass to explain to mechanics how to set it. I am sure I can simplify it by giving them a go/no-go measuring stick for setback.

So...anyone who is lowered and chose the SPC 1PC kit....any issues with tyre wear?

LMK. I am thankful.

julius071

The more adjustability, the better.

Why are you worried about your mechanic knowing how to do things and if thats the case, then go to another mechanic.

And no I don't have the SPC kit, just sharing my 0.02 cents and good luck!

BROlando

^I have a lifetime alignment at Firestone. Its one of the very few services that I cannot do myself.

I'm not worried about the adjustment potential as much as I am the effect on geomtery by just changing one arm.

Unfortunately, I don't have any sort of X/Y/Z delta slope data. Otherwise, I would just quantity whether the geometry change is negligible or not.

I would also like to minimize the number of aftermarket bushings as much as possible.

So....if I only need 1 arm...I'd like to buy just one arm (per side).

Hopefully someone chimes in with their experience on tyre wear, driving experience, and ownership experience by using just one arm vs someone who has used 3.

BROlando

Well....bought the single arm (per side).

I should be fine with a 1 degree correction. If SPC's bushings look decent and I need more correction, I'll buy/make the other 2 arms later.

I almost went to a guy who was parting out to buy stock arms and make adjustables out of them. But...I am working on about 1000000 other things RN.

cu2wagon

In4Truth. Rolly Bluntz, you the thorough-est. You are the smart kid in class and I'm the dummy sitting behind and to the right, waiting to see what your answers are so I can do the same thing.

#THanks

xtcnrice

Yeah honestly aside from bushings, naive me (normal me?) thinks you can't really screw up a camber arm that bad. Probably one of the simpler suspension components one could make I would think? Don't think you'll be disappointed in the bushings. Haven't heard any negatives on SPC in that regard for the rear arms.

BROlando

Thanks for the feedback, fellas. Yes...I tend to overthink certain things...and yes...I am the absolute worst person because of that lol.

Arms themselves are easy to make. The materials and treatments to get them to "OEM spec" would take some digging and would take some expense. Heat treatment and immersion coating in small batches would take cost...or bartering/trading for services with a fabricator like I've done in the past.

Or...just buy SPC arms that are heat treated and coated lol.

Aftermarket bushing material is what worries me...but after reading, it seems SPC uses a decent bushing design.

If they ever fail, I suppose I could just go to Aurora Bearing (they're local) to source bearing ends. Or I could maybe use a sealed/booted bearing end from a Subaru or maybe a 3G TL.

/rant. sorry.

I'll let yall know.

After looking at it a bit...I think that since I lowered the car, shortening the LCA to get camber back to spec should "cancel out" some of the geomtery conflicts.

For example, the rear suspension toes in on compression (lowering). But shortening the LCA would cause toe out. Toe conflict str8 cancelled, player. The range of the toe adjuster would be better with a shorter LCA than with a stock one for a lowered car.

If the time ever comes, replacing bushings with bearings will also get rid of a lot of Acura's bumpsteer.

xtcnrice

If you ever decide to make a youtube channel talking about detailed car things that most of us don't even consider, mostly because we don't know of, then I'll be your first subscriber. Assuming you haven't already, that is

cu2wagon

Maybe I'll steal that idea and then just wait for Bluntzszs to make a wicked smaht post and then I'll make a video about it. I bet I could rack up, *literally*, tens of "likes"! Muahhahahaha...

BROlando

Lol. well...I appreciate your confidence. If I ever start a YouTube channel, I'll be sure to shout out to yall (as I've heard the neighborhood kids say).

julius071

Starting a YouTube channel is no joke nowadays.

BROlando

I'm always joking about :'(

thoiboi

I believe in you froggy!

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...easure-949387/

BROlando

lol. I did the angle aluminum, string, measuring tape alignment on my ITR. But...I certainly did not level my floor or take much care...because I am impatient and, contrary to popular belief, have a job and a life. And there are always so many cars here....

I did, however get it close (as a real alignment later showed).

For $150-180ish per car...the lifetime plan made sense.

However, trackside alignment kits do entice me like a MF. I think you can snag one for $250 now.

julius071

Photos of the Intergra Type R

BROlando

surprise!!

Jaheri_cbp

Such a CLEAN ITR wow!!... love the wire tucks, really helps make that red on the valve cover POP! But where's the beautiful c5 engine it came with?

BROlando

Thanks!

The C5 is long gone. I also sold the car late last year

After that car, though, a C5 ITR no longer interests me. I'm sure I'll buy another ITR at some point (for the 4th time lol). But I will likely seek one with a K swap, or with a busted motor so I can K swap it.

xtcnrice

A wild Jaheri has appeared!

How've you been?

Jaheri_cbp

Yeah I rode in a buddy's k20 swapped dc2 and that shit is bananas! His was an LS doodoo sleeper though, not a pretty ITR like yours lol

Been good xtc! just living the old man grind

BROlando

On a non-ITR related note, the SPC parts look great.

It looks like they are organic substrate immersion electroplated (or e-coat/a-coat if you don't love large, confusingass names for shit). This is excellent. If the coating were just paint, it would have made me flaccid.

Here they are next to my Midwest beat stock arm:


I shot them with epoxy based paint anyway. I used silicone grease to "mask" the bushing surfaces.

I wiped the arm with rubbing alcohol to clean it. Its organic coated and has rubber bushings. So...don't go crazy with solvents and DON'T use brake cleaner.




I then wiped off the silicone grease from the silver portion of the bushing sleeve and shot them with clear coat. The epoxy in e-coat/a-coat and in my paint does not do well wtih UV rays. Minimal under the car. But...YOLO. You only lacquer once.


I also got new Honda bolts.


Unfortunately, whilst removing the LAST bolt (lol), my wrench slipped and stripped the stupid head of the stupid assed bolt that honda used in this shitty spot on this stupid LCA.

So...I'll need to drive the car to the larger garage which has my welder, recip saw, and grinder sometime next week, so I can get medieval on its ass.

Install photos coming soon.

For now, I wanted to test durometer of both bushings. Looks like the OEM ones are 75-80A. Although...this may be inaccurate AF. I was only able to measure a small nub that sticks out. The needle wont get to the actual bushing



I couldn't get a read on the SPC at all. But they "feel" the same. We'll see.

ExcelerateRep

The camber arm and toe arm in the 3 piece kit are the most popular.

The third arm is a set back arm, which could be considered unnecessary unless you want to change the forward/backward position of the wheel in the well.

Sorry to hear about the LCA bolt, stripped things are never fun

julius071

Looking great! Sorry about the stripped bolt.

BROlando

Good to know!

By the looks of it....the adjustable setback arm is to retain bumpsteer geometry. If its yanked forward/backward by lengthening/shortening the other two arms, then it will, in turn, start to pull/push on the spindle bushing. Since the bushing is solid rubber, it will "steer" the spindle. If the setback arm's bushing was a bearing...this effect would be minimized to just the fore/aft change.

The need for the arm depends on how and why you're adjusting the other two arms.

But...maybe an SPC engineer could confirm that. Its just a theory based on visual layout and prior knowledge about Honda's love of passive rear steering geometry.

And yes...that rounded head/stripped bolt kinda made me mad. They are probably using a 14mm driver on a M12 bolt to:
1.) infuriate Roland.
2.)???