2010 Acura TSX owners, did you replace any of your brakes yet?
#1
2010 Acura TSX owners, did you replace any of your brakes yet?
Has anyone owning a 2010 TSX replaced any of their brakes yet? If you have, what was the mileage on your car? My car has almost 12k miles and it's about 60% city driving.
#2
mine were gone at 12ish i think, at 23K and probably need new ones soon. NYC and hard driving. do a search, quite a few of us have gotten them replaced if not all by 20k miles atleast. if your not in the class action suit, and they aren't reimbursing, you may wanna stray away from OEM pads. them seem to continue to be shitty
#3
Pro
If your car ends in these last 6 digits, you can get some reimbursement to replace pads.
http://www.girardgibbs.com/2010%20Ac...%20Numbers.pdf
My dealership said I need to replace my rear brakes next oil change. Right now I got 17k miles and they said I got about 5k left on them. What pads do you guys suggest?
http://www.girardgibbs.com/2010%20Ac...%20Numbers.pdf
My dealership said I need to replace my rear brakes next oil change. Right now I got 17k miles and they said I got about 5k left on them. What pads do you guys suggest?
#5
I'll be installing a set of these when mine go. Can't wait.
FRONT
http://throwdownperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1793
http://throwdownperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1805
REAR
http://throwdownperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1799
http://throwdownperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1814
FRONT
http://throwdownperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1793
http://throwdownperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1805
REAR
http://throwdownperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1799
http://throwdownperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1814
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slickooz (11-22-2011)
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#8
Racer
My rear brakes went out quick...replaced with some over the counter ceramic pads, went ahead and did the frnts for the hell of it. Nice but def will look into a better set next time. Lesson learned.
#9
There's several reasons why rears will sometimes wear first, in spite of the fact the fronts provide up to 80% of the braking force. Reasons include:
- Pads are thinner with less material than fronts.
- Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) will initially distribute more braking pressure at the rear brakes during application, before the effects of weight transfer become apparent. This minimizes front-end dive and helps maintain overall stability during heavy braking.
- Emergency brake use and drag. Sometimes, due to weak springs or maladjustment, brake calipers will not retract completely allowing the pads to drag slightly on the rotor.
- Pads are thinner with less material than fronts.
- Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) will initially distribute more braking pressure at the rear brakes during application, before the effects of weight transfer become apparent. This minimizes front-end dive and helps maintain overall stability during heavy braking.
- Emergency brake use and drag. Sometimes, due to weak springs or maladjustment, brake calipers will not retract completely allowing the pads to drag slightly on the rotor.
#12
CU2-Fred
iTrader: (1)
If your car ends in these last 6 digits, you can get some reimbursement to replace pads.
http://www.girardgibbs.com/2010%20Ac...%20Numbers.pdf
My dealership said I need to replace my rear brakes next oil change. Right now I got 17k miles and they said I got about 5k left on them. What pads do you guys suggest?
http://www.girardgibbs.com/2010%20Ac...%20Numbers.pdf
My dealership said I need to replace my rear brakes next oil change. Right now I got 17k miles and they said I got about 5k left on them. What pads do you guys suggest?
I checked the list several months ago and my car was not part of the reimbursement to replace the brake pads. Either way, you would have to buy and install them from the dealership in order to qualify for the reimbursement. The reimbursement only pays for the pads, you will have to pay for the labor (which is like $70-150 range). Either way, I didn't go with the crappy OEM pads. I ended up buying the ceramic pads by HAWKS Performance from Heeltoe for $60-70 shipped and I'm planning to install it myself.
I forgot to mention, my car started to have the squeaking noise around 15K miles. When I went for an oil change 2 months ago at about 23K, they checked my pads and they said I have about 65-75% left. I even try using brake dust but didn't really work. I'm probably going to check the pads again myself to see where it is at.
Last edited by fredster730; 11-22-2011 at 05:09 PM. Reason: Addition
#14
Replaced the rears about a month ago, at 35k.
#15
10th Gear
I have about 16k on my 2010...got the B1 service today and they said nothing about my brakes - gave me all green checks across the inspection items. I think they put 13mm left on the front and 9 left on the rear...not sure how that translates into percentage remaining.
#19
Going to upgrade the pads and rotors on this car once they go out. I feel like you need to give the pedal some effort in order for this car to stop.
#20
Mine went out at 20k. Actually you don't have to get it done at the dealership to qualify for the settlement. I took mines to a local mechanic. As long as you make sure the correct "improved" part being is being used and mail in the receipt for parts and labor showing that it is the correct part. Altogether mine was about $152. My check for $150 came in about 3-4 weeks. Make sure you have the correct settlement form as well.
#21
Edmunds.com has a decent article which may help. Post quality varies on each page.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0e6681/0
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0e6681/0
#24
2010 6MT, 51,000 miles, and the dealer said the fronts and backs probably need to be replaced in the next 3 months. they didn't provide specifics and i didn't press for any because i was more preoccupied with the other issues on the car.
i drive pretty gently, and i'll coast down moderately steep hills in 2nd gear to save on the brakes. i had the rears replaced under warranty because they started squealing at 8,000 miles, but that problem hasn't come back.
overall, not too happy with the brake issues but what can you do?
i drive pretty gently, and i'll coast down moderately steep hills in 2nd gear to save on the brakes. i had the rears replaced under warranty because they started squealing at 8,000 miles, but that problem hasn't come back.
overall, not too happy with the brake issues but what can you do?
#25
OEM brake pads have become softer so that braking distances look good on paper. Bad thing is that pads will have to be replaced sooner than what was thought. Each car manufacturer is different in their specs.
We had our 2009 fronts replaced for free but had to pay up front on the rears. We did get the 150 back from the settlement. Our 2009 only had 13K on it when we bought it in November 2011. Car came from Brooklyn.
Watching our 2011 now to see how its brakes do. I bought it back in June 2011 and have a little over 17K on it now. Have noticed a slight squeak in the front at times, but it may be due to moisture build up since I only hear it after parking for awhile.
We had our 2009 fronts replaced for free but had to pay up front on the rears. We did get the 150 back from the settlement. Our 2009 only had 13K on it when we bought it in November 2011. Car came from Brooklyn.
Watching our 2011 now to see how its brakes do. I bought it back in June 2011 and have a little over 17K on it now. Have noticed a slight squeak in the front at times, but it may be due to moisture build up since I only hear it after parking for awhile.
#26
I have not replaced mine at all yet (surprisingly) and I'm at 57000 mi. I bought the car new. I'm an easy going driver and although my car is a manual, I don't do anything special to extend the brake life. Lucky I guess.
#27
i have a horrible grinding noise in my rear brakes. I inspected the rear pads and there is still over 30-40% life remaining in the pads. I also noticed a strong shudder when braking. I think there is a ton of deposit on the rotors causing the shudder, or they are warped.
I just orderd the USR rotors from EBC with redstuff pads, once those get here I can do a brake replacement, just need to get an impact driver and some brake fluid. Ill figure i might as well make a step by step as I did not see one in the sticky
I just orderd the USR rotors from EBC with redstuff pads, once those get here I can do a brake replacement, just need to get an impact driver and some brake fluid. Ill figure i might as well make a step by step as I did not see one in the sticky
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The Stig CA (01-17-2013)
#29
2010 here, 50,000 took it in because I finally got annoyed of the shudder and they replaced the pads and resurfaced the rotors (under a TSB) They also recommended the rear pads as well. I was surprised to see when I did the rears that the retainer springs were actually on the original brakes. Also they told me I was very lucky to get 50K out of the brakes. They weren't completely worn out but were pretty close to the wear indicators. 6 speed here as well.
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