1st timer

Just started yesterday. I noticed a whining sound coming from the engine so i opened the hood to hear where it's coming from and it's from the belt side. I don't think it's any belt since it smelled like something is burning(like electric motor burning).Alternator?

3.2TLc

It appears as though your baby is getting sick.

Check the drive belts and all the associated drive pulleys for wear. A bad bearing could be whining on a pulley. Is the belt tracking well ?

If belts and pulleys are ok, then look closer at the external components that they drive. ( P.S. pump, A.C. unit, and the alternator ).

You indicated that the smell was more like "hot electric", and not so much like oil or rubber. This is usually more distinctive. Does the alternator feel exceptionally hot ? Check the wiring harness plug. Perform a load test of the charging system.

Hope you are able to fix the problem before it decides to crap out on you !

01tl4tl

use a long screwdriver or get a mechanics stethoscope, $4 at hft, 10 at parts stores
place tip on non moving area of ac belt tensioner base--the thing behind alternator at top of engine
smooth sound is good,
sounds like the neighbor kids heavy metal band practice? not good

thats a common wearout part and will cause belt issues too if its not turning right ie: bearing siezure
or it may not be keeping belt tension constant-tension spring failure
mine finally went at 80kmiles after making noises since 45

that stethascope can test any moving part for noises that dont belong
every mechanic should have one and every diy ziner too!

1st timer

All my belts were changed 2 years ago when i changed the timing belt.
How hot is the alternator supposed to get? I mean if you came back from a drive, it get's damn hot. I burnt my fingers?

3.2TLc

Quite frankly, I honestly don't know the difference between normal running and the possibility of being "overheated" due to the internals of the alternator starting to fry, disintegrate and eventually seize up. Have it checked by a pro !

If you feel confident that the belts, along with all the pulleys are ok....then what's left ?
Try loosening the idler/tensioner pulley, remove the belt and then check the pulleys by hand for play or binding. After 10 years of spinning the pulley bearings will wear. Things like the Alternator, AC clutch, and PS pump are not immune to failure.

01tl4tl

have a parts store run an electrical test- ck alt output etc
burning fingers hot seems a bit excess

do the listening test on the belt tensioner near alternator
if it wasnt replaced with the belts its a likely suspect

1st timer

The sound is definitely coming from there somewhere. Either the tensioner or alt.

1st timer

Started the car, unplugged the battery and the car kept running but as soon as I turned the Ac on it shut off.

01tl4tl

that old school alt test does not apply to modern cars that require huge amounts of electricity to operate

take the car for testing
or remove alt and tensioner, parts store test alt
and leaking bearing or siezed is easy to tell in your hand

3.2TLc

One old quick trick to eliminate the "idler pulley bearing" as the source of the whining noise would be to spray a small amount of penetrating oil onto the center part of the pulley on each side to temporarily lube the worn bearing. By doing this, and then starting up the car the noise may disappear.

I'm unsure of your TL's present mileage, but at after 10 years of service, the alternator has served a long life. The alternator can be rebuilt..... or you can just swap it for a reconditioned one at any parts store for less than $150. It's not all that difficult to pull off and replace. Do the tensioner if in question for another $25. Less than $200 total, plus a few hours of your time.

I'd rather be safe than sorry.....if you were stranded at night with the alternator going bad ? Without "AAA", your tow bill could easily top that $200 ! At a minimum, have it tested at your earliest convenience. Free, at most auto parts stores.

1st timer

I checked the battery while the car was on and got 12.6V and when I gave I a bit of gas, it jumped up to 13.1V. Could the alternator be over charging?

3.2TLc

Hey 1st timer, actually what you just stated as happening is normally good.

However, the true test comes when you check the battery output under load with the AC on full, heater blower, rear window defrost, heated seats, headlamps on bright......ladidah !

You may very well witness a change !

01tl4tl

the accessory belt pre tensioner is more than 25
maybe for just the roller part but the real failure is in the internal spring part that adjust the tension
75-100 for the entire unit depnding on where you shop and Canada prices

mine rattled like a failed chevy water pump,,could hear it outside the car on it last days!!
change sound with rpm, change sound when in gear, ac load changes sound
go buy the part and be done with it

alt does increase output when load applied--more `stored amps` needed to operate systems= recharging device works harder some times
,,means the voltage regulator is functioning
the alts job is to replace juice taken from the battery by the car to run

1st timer

Alts output is at 12.2v. When I turn on the accessories goes down to 11.8.
Time to change the alt.

01tl4tl

replace that tensioner too
take it off and spin by hand to verify,,, but its worth doing
if it jams up= thats hard on the alt and will need a new belt then too

if a parts store will tell you whats failed,,diode pack, brushes or voltage regulator,,,you can replace those
ck around- rebuilt alternator is not cheap in the USA,,add 45% for Canadian Tire markup...

tj19855

thoiboi

check your power steering pump for leaks

tj19855