SR91128

I just recently got a 2003 TL-S. Absolutely love the car! But I have a small problem, the subwoofer is gone. I have all the hook ups and everything works, I just don't have a sub! I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what to do? I was thinking about getting one from a 2003 TL for parts, but I was wondering if I could take a sub out of a 2002 or 2004 TL or maybe even a TSX? Thanks in advance for the help!

Skirmich

The sub has a wierd size and its not common like 7"... I believe you can with some mods install an 8 inch Small Profile Shallow mount sub like:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...TS-SW841D.HTML

or

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-P3SD4-8.HTML

An 8" is your best bet but I believe with major mods you can Fit a 9" too.. a 10" is out of question on the OEM setup.

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Factory is 9". 8" is aftermarket size. You need to make a bracket but it's not hard.

Skirmich

You sure Dave? I dont recall it being that big?.. If it was That Big then using a 10" would be the obvious choice with Mods granted. I was under the impression it was something like 7.5 to 8".


EDIT: Nevermind it. It is 9" we use 8" for the Shallow Mount since 10" has a Bigger Magnet that hits the Lower metal Brace.

SR91128

Thanks for the help guys! The only problem is I'm not much of an audio guy and don't really have any business playing with anything. Do you guys know if any other years would fit my car?

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

I still have my old sub somewhere. Pay to ship and you can have it. It's not very heavy so it'd probably be like 20 bucks or less. If you'd really like a good sound I'd replace it. Not sure if its in your budget or whatever but the results are far better. I ran a pioneer 8" shallow mount sub off factory amp for a year and it was better than the stock. I just recently installed a pioneer AVH8400-BH so I took the opportunity to add an amp to the sub. I had wires sitting around already and a 150 watt amp that had been sitting around since like 2002. It was simple to run. I took my time and total install time for deck and amp including wires plus beer and smoke breaks was about 5 hours. Would have been faster but those damn metal brackets from factory radio had to go. They were interfering with my dash kit so I pulled that shit out.

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ount/TS-SW841D if you want to maintain complete factory look including that cover in back this is your only choice that I can find. This is what I have installed. It's the only shallow mount, open air sub I've seen so far. Sounds great too. You can find it for like 89 bucks now if you look.

SR91128

Dave, if you can find that original sub, message me and we can definately make a deal. Just let me know.

demetri

I am about to do this mod with the pioneer 8" sub. will a simple 1/2 plastic spacer work?

I read somewhere that a 3/4" spacer is necessary and the bose cover will not completely fit back in place after the mod.

also I read that our stock bose sub is 0.5 ohm. will the stock amp even have enough power for the pioneer sub running at 4 ohms?

Skirmich

0.5 Ohm? That is wayyyyy Lower, iirc the whole system runs on 2 Ohm.. And obviously you dont expect the Little 50 watt Amp to run the Pioneer like it should... With that Sub try to upgrade your AMP is not that hard since you already have the Sub Wires you just splice them into RCAs and it Works.

demetri

Your post is somewhat incorrect.

Per Bose Wiring Schematic

Subwoofer amp = 100W

9" 0.5 ohm Nd technology speaker (sub)

(4) 16cm 4ohm speakers infinitely baffled into the doors

demetri

here you go...

2001_Acura_TL_Specs.pdf

Skirmich

I dont know much About the Exact stuff of the Subwoofer but I can guarantee you the system runs in 2 Ohm even if the Speakers are 4 Ohm which I highly Doubt.

Also the AMP is 50 Watt RMS and 100watt max...
Like all those EBay 50 bucks Amps that are 1000watts.

demetri

did you click on the pdf link in my above post?

it indicates the oem bose sub is 0.5 ohm and the speakers are 4 ohm

are you saying the info I received from the bose rep is incorrect?

Skirmich

I dont know about the Sub, Im holding the Speaker in my Hand but Aside from Saying BOSE and No. Code and Made in Thailand it doesnt say the Ohms like any normal speaker.

I base my Information on Many Users who used a 4 Ohm speaker and had a very Wierd Sound coming from the Speaker and Muffled Sound on the OEM Amp that makes us think the System is Running on Lower Ohms < Search Thread.

Also BOSE has been running his 2 Ohm System many years before being on the 2G TL and to this day they Still use the 2 Ohm System for Speakers.

Like I said I dunno about the Subwoofer Specs but Everything else I pointed in the PDF is Incorrect.
But dont Trust me! Give the SEARCH a Try! We have years and years and Years of Information about this info.

demetri

if you are holding the speaker (any speaker) you can do any easy check on ohms with any cheap multimeter.

Skirmich

You also want me to Check the AMP while Im there Cuz I Still have at Hand? I dont know what is your point.. But I hope your main concern was Answered..

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

I'm pretty sure the .5 ohm is correct. Yes the speaker resistance is higher than the amp but it will still sound ok, better than a blown sub. I think the spacer I made was 3/4", I still got some of it left I will measure it later. My rear deck cover still goes on fine. It sounds ok like I said, considering the resistance difference. Obviously an aftermarket amp would be ideal but if you can't, that's fine. Here's an old pic I found of new sub and spacer I made to fit it in factory opening.

demetri

your custom spacer looks good. I plan on adding an aftermarket amp to the new sub in the stock location. if you could measure the thickness of your custom spacer that would be very helpful.

btw I haven't been able to find info on how to remove the stock sub. besides taking out the rear seat how do we remove the bose cover from the rear shelf?

MrChanh

it all depends on how it's wired as well. you can hold a 4ohm speaker and measure the resistance but it will depend on how it's hooked up to the amp or the other speakers / voice coil. check out the12volt.com if you guys are interested. it's very informative.

MrChanh

remove the top rear seat and just slide the cover forward. it might take quite a tug on the first time.

demetri

measured the resistance (ohms) of two oem bose speakers....definitely NOT 2 ohms as some have stated...

first at the connection points:



also at the solder joints:



multimeter is accurate to +/- 0.8% so these speakers are approximately 3.5ohms.

imo these speakers would not be compatible for use with an aftermarket head unit internal amp. not to mention they sound even worse without the bose eq amp processing the sound.

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

That can't be the stock 9" sub you're testing. If that speaker is 9" the leads are your meter are gigantic.

demetri

haha yea they do look big.

i was referring to the 5.25 inch speakers in the doors @ 3.5 ohm.

thanks for pointing that out. i assumed the attached pics would be easily identifiable. there are actually two different speakers in the pics above.

i also tested the 9" sub and it is 0.5 ohms.

demetri

I failed to make the distinction between nominal impedance and dc resistance.

nominal impedance would be 4 ohm and dc resistance 3.5 ohms in this case

Big Cope

Dave, can this sub be installed without any mods?

mcottrell95

Ive been looking at the Kicker 10CVT651. Its a 6.5 shallow mount but i like getting crafty with my mounting techniques. Im looking into a different amp as well though

Total Luxury

Hello all,

So, I have been researching and reading these posts which are very informative. However, I still require some advice from your experience.

My situation:

My Factory stereo CD player doesn't work in my 2002 Acura TL Type -S.
So, I wanted to put an aftermarket head unit and I think I will go with the Pioneer FH-X721BT.

They say I will lose control of the Factory sub-woofer which has performed OK but some tracks it cannot handle and I get extreme distortion as though someone is knocking on a door which sounds bad. I lower the Bass significantly when this happens to fix it.

I understand I can rewire the factory sub so it works with the aftermarket stereo but that seems like too much work and no shop in town will do it.

There is a beats sonic sound adapter from Beat-Sonic HSA-09AD you can buy from Auto Toys.com for about $150 that is plug and play and it will integrate the Bose Speakers and Sub-woofer to your aftermarket head unit.

This was going to be my option but I thought why not just replace the
Sub-woofer if I can do it for about the same price and perhaps get better sound.

I want to retain the factory look so I read this thread and learned that the Pioneer TS-SW841D was a good option and I found it new for on sale super cheap.

So, here are some of my questions:

The bracket you say is required for the TS-SW841D How do I get one? I cant make it. Will the car stereo installer have one available?

Is this speaker going to be better than the Bose factory sub-woofer?

What kind of amplifier would you guys recommend? Is there an amplifier that will amplify the sub and front and rear speakers? Or, do I need two different amps or only a sub amp? Whats the best option here?

What do you think it would cost to have this subwoofer installed?

The TS-SW841D is 30hz-1,500hz and has a 2-1/2" mounting depth.

I found a new shallow mount Pioneer speaker TS-SW2002D2 that is rated at 20hz-200hz but it has a 2-5/8" mounting depth.

Do you think the TS-SW2002D2 is a better speaker than the TS-SW841D?

Would the difference in the mounting depth cause a problem if I chose the TS-2002D2?

Thanks for your help.

demetri

did you ever replace the stock sub with a pioneer sub?

jmfj925

I just spent the last 2 days fucking with my system, and the bose sub is garbage now. Its getting power and i'm getting sound, but nowhere like with stock HU.....

Is there a for sure aftermarket sub that will fit???

Most of these posts are pretty old, so wanted to ask incase things have changed

I have the 2002 tl type-s if theres a difference for the sub

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

The same size sub will still fit today.