Water pump leaking 😞
#1
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Water pump leaking 😞
So my water pump is leaking. Sadly at only 50k from timing belt + pump change. Anyone know what parts are needed? Is my timing belt screwed along with tensioners because of the leak?
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
No one knows until they actually look at it.
What timing belt kit did you get?
and who did the work?
if the coolant gets onto the timing belt teeth, it could cause the belt to slip and would mess up timing.
Im betting water pump gasket either failed or wasnt put in place correctly
#3
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Not sure about the brand as it was done for my aunt at 200k by a trusted mechanic.
I'm looking at replacing it with this:
Gates TCKWP286A Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump by Gates
Any thoughts?
I'm looking at replacing it with this:
Gates TCKWP286A Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump by Gates
Any thoughts?
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justnspace (10-29-2014)
#5
Moderator
Funny, Amazon tells me the Gates kit isn't compatible with my car?
And to OP.. You should really pay attention next time you replace the water pump as the price of labor for replacing it is almost the same than replacing the entire timing belt kit.
Gates is a good brand, But to have real peace of mind you should always go for the OEM AISIN KIT
And to OP.. You should really pay attention next time you replace the water pump as the price of labor for replacing it is almost the same than replacing the entire timing belt kit.
Gates is a good brand, But to have real peace of mind you should always go for the OEM AISIN KIT
#7
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
This is my first replacement. I was not the owner when it was done previously. My aunt had it done by a mechanic they use in VA. I do know the mechanic has worked on her 4 other TLs for non-warranty repairs.
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#10
My old '99 TL had the same issue. After about 30k miles the weep hole at the water pump started leaking. Previous owner had an aftermarket water pump installed so I had to do the same thing and have a new timing belt installed too. I am in the same camp when it comes to the TB and water pump- OEM. I know gates is a good brand and have used their hoses and accessory belts before.
How about check with Acuraoemparts (acura of Augusta)
How about check with Acuraoemparts (acura of Augusta)
#11
Moderator
But AISIN is the OEM, Gates isn't..
So going AISIN = Going the same it has been useful and reliable all along = OEM = Peace of mind.
Gates = Aftermarket, I'm not saying gates is bad or worse quality..
But there is a reason why we stick to OEM with our ATF, IMO I'm sticking to OEM with The Timing Belt.
Last edited by Skirmich; 10-29-2014 at 05:41 PM.
#12
As previously mentioned....the installation labor is what really adds up on this job.
Try to find the best online price for an OEM kit, next the Aisin or lastly the Gates.
Try to find the best online price for an OEM kit, next the Aisin or lastly the Gates.
#14
With what you’re describing. Seems like the work was not done properly when install the WTP. What I like to do when working on WTP, is put a thin layer of liqid gasket with water/oil resistance type along the grooves where the gasket are place. Dont put too much, u dont want the excess to harden inside ur cooling system and could ended up causing a clog. The better way to do would be placing the liquid gasket on the oring then place o-ring onto the groves. It help keeping the oring in place while you put the bolts on securing the pump. That o-rings tend to fall out of place frequent during install. And you cant see if it on properly which is why most mechanics assumes it is on properly.
Since the belt have to be remove inorder to check the pump oring. It not a bad idea to rotate your idler and tensioner rollers by hand to assest it combdition. Depend on how much times and mileage ur belt system been operating in that condition will determine the answer to your question. In physicality, it shouldnt cause damage to other components in your belt system.
Before remove the belt. Make sure you rotate engine by hands until the heads and pulley are all line up. Forgetting this steps would means a long day. Unless youre experince in setting TDC.
When you set Cyl 1 to TDC on compression cycle. It means the valves need to be held in place prior to compression. It a good idea to have a plan to hold the rear cyl head pulley in it position. If that cyl compress, while ur working on the pump. Getting all 3 back together in the proper firing sequence could be a diasaster w/o looking insdide head covers. Most mech like to rotate timing mark slightly off from mark just before it approaches fully extend for compression and keep it in place there. Then remove the belt. There are some that would loosen the belt at the point where the work is perform. Taking up slacks and use the belt to hold the unaffect pulley in place. U can also get a pulley holder at autostore to hold cyl 1 in it positions.
Hope it helps. Goodluck
#15
With what you’re describing. Seems like the work was not done properly when install the WTP. What I like to do when working on WTP, is put a thin layer of liqid gasket with water/oil resistance type along the grooves where the gasket are place. Dont put too much, u dont want the excess to harden inside ur cooling system and could ended up causing a clog. The better way to do would be placing the liquid gasket on the oring then place o-ring onto the groves. It help keeping the oring in place while you put the bolts on securing the pump. That o-rings tend to fall out of place frequent during install. And you cant see if it on properly which is why most mechanics assumes it is on properly.
Since the belt have to be remove inorder to check the pump oring. It not a bad idea to rotate your idler and tensioner rollers by hand to assest it combdition. Depend on how much times and mileage ur belt system been operating in that condition will determine the answer to your question. In physicality, it shouldnt cause damage to other components in your belt system.
Before remove the belt. Make sure you rotate engine by hands until the heads and pulley are all line up. Forgetting this steps would means a long day. Unless youre experince in setting TDC.
When you set Cyl 1 to TDC on compression cycle. It means the valves need to be held in place prior to compression. It a good idea to have a plan to hold the rear cyl head pulley in it position. If that cyl compress, while ur working on the pump. Getting all 3 back together in the proper firing sequence could be a diasaster w/o looking insdide head covers. Most mech like to rotate timing mark slightly off from mark just before it approaches fully extend for compression and keep it in place there. Then remove the belt. There are some that would loosen the belt at the point where the work is perform. Taking up slacks and use the belt to hold the unaffect pulley in place. U can also get a pulley holder at autostore to hold cyl 1 in it positions.
Hope it helps. Goodluck
#17
Three Wheelin'
When you look at search results you'll see the center column shows the last post in a thread. When looking at a particular thread you'll see the post date just above the user name and avatar.
#18
Lordiv you should back track who done your timing belt service and make sure its was done 100% by your mechanic/tech and if all is clear you need to go after Amazon and Gates regarding this matter for some computation or perhaps a free timing belt kit and a tested working water pump
That's my two cents and don't leave the leaking water pump too long "because you are then asking for big trouble" over heating = Warping Heads and Block and more no fun issues...and greater $$$ costs
That's my two cents and don't leave the leaking water pump too long "because you are then asking for big trouble" over heating = Warping Heads and Block and more no fun issues...and greater $$$ costs
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