MOBB

I've been having an issue for a good 6 months now with my front drivers side wheel area. I'm having this terrible noise when coming to a stop while on the brakes. I posted a video a while back but never got a clear response to what it was.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxv-7...ature=youtu.be

Now, I've re-surfaced rotors twice, 1 week of noise free and smooth braking and then the shake and noise comes back. Mechanic says my caliper bracket is loose and there was loose in the sliding pin. We replaced that and noise went away for 2 days. I also replaced the brake pads but no luck. I feel like every time i bring it it the problem cures itself for a couple of days and then comes back. Today I was able to get it on a lift and observe the rotor spin with the wheel off. I observed the rotor *EXTREMELY* spinning in a wobble. The rotor was pressing in and out the caliper causing the caliper to move in and out. The passenger side doesn't show much signs and looks like its spinning true. When I hit the brakes with the car on the lift I could clearly see the noise was coming from the rotor moving the caliper in and out. My rotors are clearly warped because of the violent shaking that is occurring when I get on the brakes.

I just bought some new rotors but I now having doubts thinking my hub might be the culprit. My rotor is spinning crooked while in Drive with me not even on the brakes. Altough when I had them re-surfaced they ran true for a couple of days and then started to wobble again. Can a faulty hub be the cause of my rotor warping, or moving in and out of the caliper I'm having a hard time believing my 1 year old rotors are already warped to this point. My wheel shakes while braking but not while in motion. Will a faulty hub shake the steering wheel all the time??

Just an FYI stay away from "Centric Premium Rotors", The box is stamped made in China and the "Electro static Charged black coating" on the rotors didn't even hold up for one winter I know have rusty looking rotors all around.Not worth the money I paid. Centric refuses to cover it under warranty claiming that I didn't "bed them in properly" but I clearly followed their online instructions.

01tl4tl

your mechanic should have a tool that to measure the actual amount of runout happening with rotor on hub- as it rotates by hand
thats all this tool does! measure runout! (50 bucks at harbor freight)

do you have the 2 rotor retainer screws installed? not important when wheel on,,
but wheels off= critical to your testing
If the wheels were off,,, were the lug nuts on and snugged up-to hold rotor assembly tight to hub?
like it does when assembled with wheel

hub bearings wear out--again a simple tool a real mechanic and any good ziner has-
the mechanics stethascope $5-10 and finds noises fast
Hubs get bent from curbshots, or potholes can do you wrong

are you running matched maker pads?
HOW are you bedding them in??,,it takes more than one set of getting them hot and doing the transfer layer to get full melding/matching/mating of the hills and valleys of the pads and rotors together

rotors can be warped from blasting on the lug nuts with an airgun

01tl4tl

have you tried swapping rotors left to right?

are they cutting a lot of metal off to get the rotors straight?
actual deformation of the part?
How much thickness is left of the rotor- if the calipers have to extend farther than normal--problems
I got a few sets in a row of bad rotors once,,had to change brands