Notices

Valve Adjustment DIY in progress

 
Old 01-09-2011, 10:32 PM
  #161  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
Please buy a GO- NO GO feeler guage!!!!!
it will make your life simple when doing valve adjustments
stick it in- it stops and is correct or it keeps going means too loose
wont go in at all- too tight!

I imagine IHC, fries, and the other real techs will agree- its the right tool for the job,
and not many dollars at parts store- maybe harbor freight too,
or buy a great one for many years of use, matco or snap-on off the tool truck!

I learned on the `guess the drag` type (still have 3 sets of them in the toolbox), and then bought the right thing- (only needed 1 of it)
made all valve adjust services easy,,this was back doing 5-15 valve adjustments a week on datsun/nissanZ cars, plus those pita bimmers

No valves to adjust on RX7 rotary~~ my favorite car in for a major service!!
01tl4tl is offline  
Old 01-09-2011, 10:34 PM
  #162  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
the fuel injectors make a lot of noise,, once the valves are adjusted
nothing you can do about it
and the purge thing clicks as said before
01tl4tl is offline  
Old 01-10-2011, 09:31 AM
  #163  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 229 Likes on 162 Posts
U should not lift the rocker. It will cause all your valves to be over tight
phee is offline  
Old 01-10-2011, 10:52 AM
  #164  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 20,172
Received 1,779 Likes on 1,259 Posts
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl View Post
Please buy a GO- NO GO feeler guage!!!!!
it will make your life simple when doing valve adjustments
stick it in- it stops and is correct or it keeps going means too loose
wont go in at all- too tight!

I imagine IHC, fries, and the other real techs will agree- its the right tool for the job,
and not many dollars at parts store- maybe harbor freight too,
or buy a great one for many years of use, matco or snap-on off the tool truck!

I learned on the `guess the drag` type (still have 3 sets of them in the toolbox), and then bought the right thing- (only needed 1 of it)
made all valve adjust services easy,,this was back doing 5-15 valve adjustments a week on datsun/nissanZ cars, plus those pita bimmers

No valves to adjust on RX7 rotary~~ my favorite car in for a major service!!
Agreed on the go/no go feeler. It's quicker and especially for the first timer it takes some of the guess work or "feeling" out of it. I've done probably 5-6 valve adjustments and it's normal for me to have to go back once or twice after the adjustments until I get the feel of it if I don't have a go/no go gauge.
I hate cars is offline  
Old 01-10-2011, 02:03 PM
  #165  
6spd
 
Jaeson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Atlanta/Houston
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I just got the go no go feeler gauge. But I'm getting 2 different answers about lifting the rocker.... If you don't lift it, you're basically saying there's extra play in the rocker/valve in addition to the clearance you just measured. That doesn't seem right. I already tried that, and it seems the valves are too loose (although maybe I didn't measure it with enough drag).
Jaeson is offline  
Old 01-10-2011, 02:05 PM
  #166  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 20,172
Received 1,779 Likes on 1,259 Posts
Originally Posted by Jaeson View Post
I just got the go no go feeler gauge. But I'm getting 2 different answers about lifting the rocker.... If you don't lift it, you're basically saying there's extra play in the rocker/valve in addition to the clearance you just measured. That doesn't seem right. I already tried that, and it seems the valves are too loose (although maybe I didn't measure it with enough drag).
Lifting it is fine. You're pushing it against the cam which is what you want to do to take all the slack out. Gravity should not come into play.
I hate cars is offline  
Old 01-10-2011, 02:23 PM
  #167  
2003 TL-p
 
gold2003tl (90)'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Reading, PA
Age: 28
Posts: 1,587
Received 19 Likes on 16 Posts
^ exactly what i did and though was correct. all i used was a little common scene and a set of angle bent feeler gauges. i simply tripled checked everything making sure larger sized gauges wouldn't fit and smaller sized gauges be loose with play, and the correct sized gauge having light drag with no play. you really cant mess it up if you really think about whats going on, just make sure that gap when the rocker is lifted is the same thickness of the gauge.

iv learned to use regular straight feeler gauges on small 4 stroke engines so thats my practice. my car wasn't much harder, just a much bigger job.
gold2003tl (90) is offline  
Old 01-13-2011, 03:02 AM
  #168  
6spd
 
Jaeson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Atlanta/Houston
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the tips guys. After some drama (battery died), I got the car started and no more TICKING! I used both feeler gauges and was very detailed about it this time. I guess I shouldn't have done it outside in the cold in the dark the first time around because I was just rushing to get it done so I wouldn't get a frostbite.

Here's a video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blbSfhNNidc
Jaeson is offline  
Old 01-13-2011, 01:59 PM
  #169  
2003 TL-p
 
gold2003tl (90)'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Reading, PA
Age: 28
Posts: 1,587
Received 19 Likes on 16 Posts
^
gold2003tl (90) is offline  
Old 01-16-2011, 05:55 PM
  #170  
6spd
 
Jaeson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Atlanta/Houston
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
LOL more drama. I've been driving around for the past few days, and the car runs fine, feels stronger than before, no ticking. Today, accelerating at around 45mph, my CEL started blinking a few times and then went away. It didn't feel anything different, and the car seemed to run normal. I went to Autozone and it said P1399 - random misfire. I'm not sure what to do now.... car seems to run fine but I don't wanna risk anything.

Any ideas? I might try Seafoming it...
Jaeson is offline  
Old 01-16-2011, 06:01 PM
  #171  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 20,172
Received 1,779 Likes on 1,259 Posts
Originally Posted by Jaeson View Post
LOL more drama. I've been driving around for the past few days, and the car runs fine, feels stronger than before, no ticking. Today, accelerating at around 45mph, my CEL started blinking a few times and then went away. It didn't feel anything different, and the car seemed to run normal. I went to Autozone and it said P1399 - random misfire. I'm not sure what to do now.... car seems to run fine but I don't wanna risk anything.

Any ideas? I might try Seafoming it...
You got some too tight. No big deal, go back and redo. Just don't take too long because you will burn the exhaust valves if they don't fully close and seat well to transfer heat to the seat. It doesn't take long to hurt them.

Don't Seafoam. It's worthless and has the potential to cause more problems. If you pulled any spark plugs out, check connections on the coils first and gaps when you pulled them out. I've hit the plug on the way in to the hold and closed the gap down to nearly zero and cause a misfire.
I hate cars is offline  
Old 01-16-2011, 07:01 PM
  #172  
6spd
 
Jaeson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Atlanta/Houston
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by I hate cars View Post
You got some too tight. No big deal, go back and redo. Just don't take too long because you will burn the exhaust valves if they don't fully close and seat well to transfer heat to the seat. It doesn't take long to hurt them.

Don't Seafoam. It's worthless and has the potential to cause more problems. If you pulled any spark plugs out, check connections on the coils first and gaps when you pulled them out. I've hit the plug on the way in to the hold and closed the gap down to nearly zero and cause a misfire.
You sure it's not something else? It's weird that it only happened once and went away in 4 days of driving around 50 miles. Maybe it's one of the gaskets? Man, it's gonna suck doing this a third time. How many miles you reckon I could drive like this? I don't have time until next weekend....

Oh and I didn't pull the spark plugs out, just the coil packs.

Last edited by Jaeson; 01-16-2011 at 07:04 PM.
Jaeson is offline  
Old 01-16-2011, 07:10 PM
  #173  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 20,172
Received 1,779 Likes on 1,259 Posts
Originally Posted by Jaeson View Post
You sure it's not something else? It's weird that it only happened once and went away in 4 days of driving around 50 miles. Maybe it's one of the gaskets? Man, it's gonna suck doing this a third time. How many miles you reckon I could drive like this? I don't have time until next weekend....

Oh and I didn't pull the spark plugs out, just the coil packs.
Start with the easy stuff such as the coils. Make sure the plug holes are not filled with oil. After all of the easy checks are done and you don't find anything it's time to recheck the valves.

More than likely a coil issue would throw a specific cylinder misfire code, not a random misfire but it's always possible.
I hate cars is offline  
Old 01-17-2011, 07:44 PM
  #174  
6spd
 
Jaeson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Atlanta/Houston
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I def think it's not the coilpack, because I've had one of them go bad before and I could feel it. I'll check and make sure the gasket isn't on backwards or something...
Jaeson is offline  
Old 04-08-2011, 12:46 AM
  #175  
01 Type-S, Sexy Silver
 
disgruntlednut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Keller, Texas
Age: 32
Posts: 520
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
So I'm planning on doing this Saturday morning. Almost 170K miles so it's way overdue. Need to clean out that EGR while I'm at it. Ordered the Outlaw Engineering ThermoBlok kit:

"Includes intake manifold spacer, throttle body spacer, gaskets, installation kit, bypass fitting, detailed instructions and OUTLAW ENGINEERING decals!" (I'm really excited about the decals, that's the main reason I ordered it.)

Am I going to need any additional gaskets or anything?
disgruntlednut is offline  
Old 04-08-2011, 08:03 AM
  #176  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 229 Likes on 162 Posts
Jaeson they aretoo tight. U shouldn't have lifted the valves to tighten them all the way. There is nothing in the manual that states that.
phee is offline  
Old 04-08-2011, 10:47 AM
  #177  
2003 TL-p
 
gold2003tl (90)'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Reading, PA
Age: 28
Posts: 1,587
Received 19 Likes on 16 Posts
Originally Posted by phee View Post
Jaeson they aretoo tight. U shouldn't have lifted the valves to tighten them all the way. There is nothing in the manual that states that.
what do you mean by that?

its required to lift the rocker arm up to insert the feeler gauge, and then you adjust and tighten the lock nut and recheck clearance again with the feeler gauge after tightening. unless im missing something here?
gold2003tl (90) is offline  
Old 04-08-2011, 10:51 AM
  #178  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
the outlaw kit has everything you need for the install- no extra gaskets or parts beside the 3 cans carb cleaner for the egr cleaning- get non chlorine stuff -its safer
Doesnt hurt to remove the plenums on edges of manifold and clean in there too- get everything you can while its apart
where it says to use vise grips to remove 2 studs that get replaced with longer ones,-dont!
that can let shards of metal come off the stud if tool slips ~ bad news
Instead, use 2 nuts locked against each other on the stud- then you can turn by the lower nut and it comes right out = no danger

reminder- in 500 miles go back and retorque all the manifold bolts- they tend to loosen slightly with heat cycles
01tl4tl is offline  
Old 04-08-2011, 10:55 AM
  #179  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
re: lifting valves to adjust
your feeler guage should slide in with little drag, or if it wont go- the valve is tight - try next thinner size to see how much

dont lift anything from its resting position, or the next thing goes out of whack

I hate cars doesnt like seafoam- ok- bg makes good stuff too
properly used its no prob at all and carbon buildup- especially with E10 gas- is a real issue
gas makers wouldnt add nitrogen (shell) or other boosters that claim to clean intake valve backs and pistons of carbon,,unless the crud their gas creates is real
01tl4tl is offline  
Old 04-08-2011, 11:33 AM
  #180  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 229 Likes on 162 Posts
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl View Post
re: lifting valves to adjust
your feeler guage should slide in with little drag, or if it wont go- the valve is tight - try next thinner size to see how much

dont lift anything from its resting position, or the next thing goes out of whack
I hate cars doesnt like seafoam- ok- bg makes good stuff too
properly used its no prob at all and carbon buildup- especially with E10 gas- is a real issue
gas makers wouldnt add nitrogen (shell) or other boosters that claim to clean intake valve backs and pistons of carbon,,unless the crud their gas creates is real
exactly.
phee is offline  
Old 04-08-2011, 07:40 PM
  #181  
01 Type-S, Sexy Silver
 
disgruntlednut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Keller, Texas
Age: 32
Posts: 520
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
The plan for tomorrow is:

Clean K&N Filter
Clean EGR port
Clean TB and whatever I can in the Intake Manifold.
Install ThermoBlok IM Gaskets and TB Spacer
Replace PCV valve
Adjust valves
TB Coolant Bypass
(Maybe replace spark plugs)

Moderate mechanical experience (anything from changing a bulb to a full timing belt job), but haven't ever really tried tackling more than that.

Besides what's been posted throughout this thread, any comments, concerns? Advice encouraged.
disgruntlednut is offline  
Old 04-08-2011, 08:08 PM
  #182  
01 Type-S, Sexy Silver
 
disgruntlednut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Keller, Texas
Age: 32
Posts: 520
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
More notably: Anything else I should do/check/fix/look for while I've got everything torn apart?
disgruntlednut is offline  
Old 04-08-2011, 11:37 PM
  #183  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
mostly,,clean the egr passageway thru the manifold with a wire coat hanger (after soaking with carb cleaner)- not just the ports under egr valve and the other end, rinse manifold well and totally dry!!
See diys and read instructions supplied with parts
Make sure the top most gasket as you remove the engine covers- stays UP side UP--dont flip over or it will bite you if installed that way--fits but wrong~

I wouldnt bypass the coolant/(actually `heater line`) to TB, its needed in certain conditions to prevent icing in the system
and doesnt rob too much performance --unless you are going to race the car in auto-x or similar
01tl4tl is offline  
Old 04-08-2011, 11:40 PM
  #184  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
unless they failed -no reason to replace egr valve- usually some wd on the arm gets it working like new
and the pcv- carb cleaner/deep creep will remove sludge inside it,,unless its 3 bucks or less,,
then replace it= for time savings to do other jobs

plugs if more than 70kmiles on the current ones
bg seafoam or redline never hurt to clean internals and injection system - when done correctly = following simple directions~
01tl4tl is offline  
Old 04-09-2011, 01:22 PM
  #185  
01 Type-S, Sexy Silver
 
disgruntlednut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Keller, Texas
Age: 32
Posts: 520
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
Is there any way to clear out the gunk that's built up in the EGR port on the motor? Got the IM side clean, now wondering about the motor side... i.e. Without dropping any of the crap inside.
disgruntlednut is offline  
Old 04-09-2011, 01:52 PM
  #186  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 229 Likes on 162 Posts
take the manifold off and let it soak in some soapy water. take a metal hanger and pound out the hole with it
phee is offline  
Old 04-09-2011, 04:25 PM
  #187  
01 Type-S, Sexy Silver
 
disgruntlednut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Keller, Texas
Age: 32
Posts: 520
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
I've got the EGR port clean on the IM. But the hole that it connects with on the top of the motor is filled with the same gunk.

P.S. The rear valve cover is the biggest pain in the ass I have ever seen.
disgruntlednut is offline  
Old 04-09-2011, 05:47 PM
  #188  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 229 Likes on 162 Posts
remove the IMRC and ubolt the power steering hose-bracket.
phee is offline  
Old 04-10-2011, 12:40 AM
  #189  
01 Type-S, Sexy Silver
 
disgruntlednut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Keller, Texas
Age: 32
Posts: 520
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
Thanks for the replies guys, I really appreciate it.

I managed to break a bolt while putting one of the valve covers back on. I could kick myself right now. Too tired and wasn't thinking straight.
disgruntlednut is offline  
Old 04-10-2011, 08:29 AM
  #190  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 229 Likes on 162 Posts
Get it fixed or it will leak
phee is offline  
Old 04-10-2011, 10:00 AM
  #191  
01 Type-S, Sexy Silver
 
disgruntlednut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Keller, Texas
Age: 32
Posts: 520
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
It was one of the bolts on the back cover. Got the broken piece out. Gonna use a bolt from the front and put everything back together until I can get a replacement bolt tomorrow since the dealer is closed today.
disgruntlednut is offline  
Old 04-10-2011, 10:24 AM
  #192  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 229 Likes on 162 Posts
good idea. i have a few of those bolts laying around since they love to break. plus i always break bolts
phee is offline  
Old 05-08-2012, 08:53 AM
  #193  
Registered Member
 
LECKEY73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MD
Posts: 42
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Are all the Numbers on the cam

Originally Posted by juanclopez2786 View Post
just in case you guys need the acura instructions on doing a valve clearance adjustment here it is!

1 Remove the cylinder head covers.

2 Remove the front upper cover .

3 Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 1 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.



4 Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.


Intake:
0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.)

Exhaust:
0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.)



5 Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw (B) and the end of the valve stem and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag.



6 If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B) until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct.

7 Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance.

Repeat the adjustment if necessary.



8 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 4 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.

9 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 4 cylinder.



10 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 2 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.

11 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 2 cylinder.



12 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 5 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.

13 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 5 cylinder.



14 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 3 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.

15 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder.



16 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 6 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.

17 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 6 cylinder.

Are all the Numbers on the cam as shown in the pictures?
LECKEY73 is offline  
Old 05-08-2012, 09:31 AM
  #194  
Registered Member
 
LECKEY73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MD
Posts: 42
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Sorry

THEY SAY READING IS FUNDAMETAL
LECKEY73 is offline  
Old 06-13-2012, 05:55 AM
  #195  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Age: 48
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have a question...in this picture ...what anchors the coil pack sleeve at the base where the plug is?? Is there a gasket as there is at the top or something else?
Zenica is offline  
Old 06-13-2012, 04:30 PM
  #196  
Moderator
 
Skirmich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Baja, México.
Age: 30
Posts: 6,407
Received 977 Likes on 845 Posts
Yes there must be 3 Rubber Donuts on Each to keep the Oil out of the Spark plug Shaft...

Just in Case this is a Pic of the Valve Cover Gasket Replacement:

Notice the 3 Little Donuts those are what goes on top of the Shafts.

And To ADD to this awesome DIY I found out this tool before Hand to Adjust the Valves themself Makes the Work a Little Easier:
Amazon Amazon



Its just a Socket Wrench with an Included Flat Screwdriver that goes in there to adjust the Screw and Nut at the Same time Pretty Handy!
Skirmich is offline  
Old 08-22-2012, 05:43 AM
  #197  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Age: 49
Posts: 50
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Thought that I following the instructions correctly

I spent quality time to adjust the valves as described (leveraged this thread and the service manual), but it seems that something went wrong. My first 2 big trips (2+ hr trips) I found my engine oil a quart down after the trips. It seems that I may have tightened too much as my MPG has also gone down although the performance has been great.

I am open for ideas as the loss of oil stumped me a little since there is no drainage on the engine. I ask now as most of my trips are local at the moment so it is an ideal time to repair something that may be out of sync with the valve adjustment.

Thanks.
bill_talbot is offline  
Old 08-22-2012, 11:19 AM
  #198  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
just for fun bill, ck the pcv valve for free movement of ball inside

been reports of those clogging and excess pressure will force oil
out thru the engine rear main seal,,there is an inspection plate under car for that leak

everything was set to torque spec on bolts?? gaskets good,,bolt gaskets good and none missing.. as seen in pic above your post?

I know we run one side of our valves at min spec and the other just a tick over mid spec
but dont recall which at the moment

too tight valve adjust is danger city!! for valve to piston contact
especially if there is carbon buildup on pistons
too tight bolts are crushing gasket seal
01tl4tl is offline  
The following users liked this post:
bill_talbot (08-24-2012)
Old 08-22-2012, 09:24 PM
  #199  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Age: 49
Posts: 50
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
I will check PCV valve tomorrow for flow. I did the specs according to the svc manual, but if that is off I am more than happy to take a look. (after adjusting them once it really isn't too bad to take a look at again).

Here are the specs the service manual provides:
Intake:
0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.)

Exhaust:
0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.)
I did replace the gaskets while performing the adjustment previously and tightened all to spec as the engine has 100k+ on it. ...and visually I didn't see any leaks when the oil level was found to be low.

Open for ideas as this definitely caught me off guard.

Thanks.
bill_talbot is offline  
Old 08-24-2012, 06:36 AM
  #200  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Age: 49
Posts: 50
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Ok, so I reread this entire thread with the following results:
1) confirm that PCV valve is not clogged; otherwise, spend $5 to on a new one for additional insurance
2) the adjustment specs should be:
Intake: 0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.) - Tighten as close to .009 as possible as it will loosen over time
Exhaust: 0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.) - Tighten as close to .012 as possible as it will tighten over time
3) do not lift the rockers when performing the adjustment
4) only turn crankshaft in clockwise direction
5) line up TDC between the back cover and the TDC mark on the camshaft pully (the diagrams within the service manual are not exactly perfect)
6) only perform on a cold engine
7) take your time to perform the adjustment. It is not hard, only tedious.

Please confirm that I am capturing this correctly. My goal is to do this today, if possible.

Thanks.
bill_talbot is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Valve Adjustment DIY in progress


Contact Us - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.