Notices

Valve Adjustment DIY in progress

 
Old 07-23-2008, 10:33 AM
  #1  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 230 Likes on 163 Posts
Valve Adjustment DIY in progress

ill be doing my valve adjustment today, if the weather permits.
i plan on providing pictures and a specific write up including the tools needed for the job.

i want this thread to be all about the job so im asking the Vets of the forum to chime in with helpful hints and recommendations for it.

01tl4tl has stated that a go-no-go feeler gauge be used. so i purchased it at autozone for 3.49.
thanks for Rob for providing the pages
phee is offline  
The following users liked this post:
UA6kid (07-05-2014)
Old 07-23-2008, 10:39 AM
  #2  
hates the winter
 
ChrisQ1980's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Age: 39
Posts: 2,621
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Make sure the engine is stone cold when doing this.
ChrisQ1980 is offline  
Old 07-23-2008, 11:19 AM
  #3  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
expect 6 hours, its a lot of stuff to remove to get to the job- then like rob discovered- the first 2 cylinders are for learning- then the others are easy as you get the hang of how the feel is on adjuster and getting it right. Then go back and redo the learners~

you found an actual go-no/go guage for 4 bucks? It has a step type design so it only goes a little ways and changes its thickness dramatically so as to NO go- right?
I use a snap on- a pro guage thats 12 bucks- precision is everything in this job

Phee- you already seafoamed so good there- and you did the engine oil with foam too correct?
so totally ready to do the adjustments now
01tl4tl is offline  
Old 07-23-2008, 11:25 AM
  #4  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 230 Likes on 163 Posts
got the foam done real good. remember? do you have a link to the guage you have?
phee is offline  
Old 07-23-2008, 11:50 AM
  #5  
Registered Member
 
acutee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,148
Received 56 Likes on 48 Posts
I use the plate feeler type, like the sims. you will need to turn the crankshaft accordingly to bring the valves to tdc; make sure to turn the crankshaft back and forth to set the valve at highest point before adjusting.
acutee is offline  
Old 07-23-2008, 11:54 AM
  #6  
Registered Member
 
rob-2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area
Age: 64
Posts: 1,449
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I picked up the snap on go-no-go for $12 delivered, and also used a regular feeler guage. I feel having both was helpful. There is alot of travel on the regular feeler to help you get the 'feel' and then we checked with the go-no-go. (Sorry phee, forgot to mention that).

Another thing, remember to plug everything back in. We missed 2 coolant lines that run into the throttle body and loss 1/2 qt on the garage floor. It might be wise to have extra fluids available.

After doing the work, put it all back together slowly, do NOT over tighten the valve cover bolts (just hand tight and no more) then if you have a moment clean the intake EGR ports again, never hurts.

Do the work with a fan moving the air around or the garage door open, as you turn the motor over you're going to get gas.

I got everything set up the night before, car in the spot I wanted, tools out, instructions and ran over the job to ensure once I took it apart I didn't need to make a run somewhere.

It ended up being a 6-7 hour job for us, we stopped for beers and we did do the first 2 cycle again.

You'll need a jack and pillars. The car will need to be raised to turn the motor over. Don't forget towels for leaning against the car.

Idle the car for 5min or so and watch for fluid before you do any driving.
rob-2 is offline  
Old 07-23-2008, 12:05 PM
  #7  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 230 Likes on 163 Posts
sounds good guys, i also found this article on how to use the feeler guage for the n00bs http://www.reluctantmechanic.com/usi...ness_gauge.php

i also have another question. since i will have the engine open, can i clean everything with throttle body cleaner?
phee is offline  
Old 07-23-2008, 12:08 PM
  #8  
Registered Member
 
rob-2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area
Age: 64
Posts: 1,449
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by phee
sounds good guys, i also found this article on how to use the feeler guage for the n00bs http://www.reluctantmechanic.com/usi...ness_gauge.php

i also have another question. since i will have the engine open, can i clean everything with throttle body cleaner?
What's everything?
rob-2 is offline  
Old 07-23-2008, 12:11 PM
  #9  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 230 Likes on 163 Posts
and this is for the go-nogo guage
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go-NoGo_gauge
phee is offline  
Old 07-23-2008, 12:13 PM
  #10  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 230 Likes on 163 Posts
Originally Posted by rob-2
What's everything?
the IM, heads etc. etc.

what did you clean?
phee is offline  
Old 07-23-2008, 09:18 PM
  #11  
wham bam thank you ma'am
iTrader: (8)
 
Rajca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Illinois
Age: 29
Posts: 10,316
Received 35 Likes on 31 Posts
im gonna have to do this soon. please make a diy with lots of pics.
Rajca is offline  
Old 07-23-2008, 10:36 PM
  #12  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
Do not turn the engine ~back and forth~ the engine rotates ONE direction ONLY
01tl4tl is offline  
Old 07-24-2008, 12:58 AM
  #13  
MP90 uninstalled
 
jproy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Do not turn the engine ~back and forth~ the engine rotates ONE direction ONLY
What specifically will happen to the J32 that is detrimental if you rotate it backwards with the crank pulley bolt?
jproy is offline  
Old 07-24-2008, 12:44 PM
  #14  
Registered Member
 
rob-2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area
Age: 64
Posts: 1,449
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by jproy
What specifically will happen to the J32 that is detrimental if you rotate it backwards with the crank pulley bolt?

FYI - I missed the valve line up slightly and backed it towards the correct position. I've driven 400 miles since the work on Saturday without any troubles.
rob-2 is offline  
Old 07-24-2008, 01:32 PM
  #15  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 230 Likes on 163 Posts
well guys, i havent been able to get to it yet. but im set up for tomoro morning. im thinking about making a video instead of a diy.we will see though. im just looking for a reason to use my new MBP
phee is offline  
Old 07-24-2008, 01:47 PM
  #16  
wham bam thank you ma'am
iTrader: (8)
 
Rajca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Illinois
Age: 29
Posts: 10,316
Received 35 Likes on 31 Posts
videos are better than pics, but not all of us have tv in the garage to watch the video and do the valves, if u could get both that would be great.
Rajca is offline  
Old 07-24-2008, 02:24 PM
  #17  
Registered Member
 
acutee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,148
Received 56 Likes on 48 Posts
Originally Posted by rob-2
FYI - I missed the valve line up slightly and backed it towards the correct position. I've driven 400 miles since the work on Saturday without any troubles.

You did exactly what it needs to be done. Every turn you make, the crakshaft will jump the turn and noway you can make it at perfect point. You will slightly miss the perfect position, so just jiggle it back and forth to make it perfect. If you don't jiggle it to make it at perfect tdc, it will take you forever to adjust your valves.

Of course you don't want to do a big turn backward.
acutee is offline  
Old 07-24-2008, 04:02 PM
  #18  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
a degree or 2 is ok- deciding that its faster to turn it the other directiojn in order to get to the next cylinder--well now we are talking about a bunch of parts designed to go one direction
01tl4tl is offline  
Old 07-24-2008, 09:02 PM
  #19  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 230 Likes on 163 Posts
Originally Posted by Rajca
videos are better than pics, but not all of us have tv in the garage to watch the video and do the valves, if u could get both that would be great.
haha, video = youtube. not like a DVD or something so either way you will have a pc in the garage
phee is offline  
Old 07-24-2008, 10:18 PM
  #20  
MP90 uninstalled
 
jproy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by rob-2
FYI - I missed the valve line up slightly and backed it towards the correct position. I've driven 400 miles since the work on Saturday without any troubles.

That was my point exactly. 01tl4tl posted not to do it. I have done many valve adjustments and there is absolutely nothing wrong with rotating it backwards to line up a piston and valves at TDC, NOTHING. What is a problem is when the ignition is on and the car is moving and the assembly gets rotated backwards like in a spinout going backwards in a forward gear at high speed. I wanted to see why he said that. The mechanics at the dealer rotate them backwards a little to line Ďem up sometimes if they pass TDC. However, I donít recommend you put a breaker bar on the crank pulley and go to town rotating that sucker counter clock wise (backwards). I donít see how it would hurt anything though if you did with the ignition off and the batt. disconnected. You might push some debris from the oil filter past the one way valve back into the motor if you went to town on it.

A valve adjustment requires a steady hand, patients, skill with a feeler gauge, and most of all intelligence. If you donít have the Acura service book, thorough knowledge of auto mechanics and tools, service manual, and the right tools, I do not recommend you try this yourself. I am a skilled mechanic and it took me 2.5hrs. of sweat and back pain. It is definitely a procedure where you could make the valves worse or damage something if you over adjust a valve. You should have a good torque wrench and the torque specs for every bolt on the car. Personally, If you are capable of doing a valve adjustment you should be capable of rebuilding an entire engine or at least understand every concept involved with the process. At least have a timing belt change under your belt. A small slip up in this area and you could destroy a valve or valve terrain. I only say these things because those of you who have no automotive know how should not try this. I fear you will really screw something up. If you cant afford to pay someone to do it you probably cant afford the consequences of screwing it up. I certainly wouldnít try it without the manual. It is pretty clear on what to do but doing it right is another matter. Just something to think about.
jproy is offline  
The following users liked this post:
Pagan86 (05-08-2012)
Old 07-24-2008, 10:21 PM
  #21  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
I use a remote starter/tap- switch to advance the engine- then if it doesnt stop exact on the marks, I just crank it around again- thats what I was taught decades ago, and how I will always do it.
01tl4tl is offline  
Old 07-25-2008, 10:46 AM
  #22  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 230 Likes on 163 Posts
ok guys. im there today. someone post up torque specs while im at it. thanks
phee is offline  
Old 07-25-2008, 11:50 AM
  #23  
Registered Member
 
rob-2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area
Age: 64
Posts: 1,449
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
14lbs on the nut that locks the screw on the rocker (I believe it's called that).

I couldn't find the other tq specs on the other bolts.
rob-2 is offline  
Old 07-25-2008, 12:57 PM
  #24  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 230 Likes on 163 Posts
Alright. Thanks. Please keep looking because I'm on the blackberry and its way harder to find. I found that my egr and my pcv are clogged real bad. I'm cleaning them now. Got my metal hanger in hand lol.
phee is offline  
Old 07-25-2008, 01:03 PM
  #25  
Registered Member
 
rob-2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area
Age: 64
Posts: 1,449
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Use carb cleaner on the ERG ports, not a hanger.

There doesn't appear to be specs for the others, best use caution on tightening things up. Use a smaller ratchet to help prevent over tightening smaller bolts.
rob-2 is offline  
Old 07-25-2008, 01:25 PM
  #26  
MP90 uninstalled
 
jproy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
The erg port is easiest cleaned with a pressure washer on the upper intake and upper intake cover while both are removed from the engine.
jproy is offline  
Old 07-25-2008, 01:58 PM
  #27  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 230 Likes on 163 Posts
Pulled all the gink out with the hanger and carb cleaner.
phee is offline  
Old 07-25-2008, 02:32 PM
  #28  
Registered Member
 
acutee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,148
Received 56 Likes on 48 Posts
One question for you, when removing the crankshaft bolt, using an airgun, going counter clockwise to remove the bolt, the crank pulley will turn backward like half turn or full turn on an stubborn bolt, is that okay?


Originally Posted by jproy
That was my point exactly. 01tl4tl posted not to do it. I have done many valve adjustments and there is absolutely nothing wrong with rotating it backwards to line up a piston and valves at TDC, NOTHING. What is a problem is when the ignition is on and the car is moving and the assembly gets rotated backwards like in a spinout going backwards in a forward gear at high speed. I wanted to see why he said that. The mechanics at the dealer rotate them backwards a little to line ‘em up sometimes if they pass TDC. However, I don’t recommend you put a breaker bar on the crank pulley and go to town rotating that sucker counter clock wise (backwards). I don’t see how it would hurt anything though if you did with the ignition off and the batt. disconnected. You might push some debris from the oil filter past the one way valve back into the motor if you went to town on it.

A valve adjustment requires a steady hand, patients, skill with a feeler gauge, and most of all intelligence. If you don’t have the Acura service book, thorough knowledge of auto mechanics and tools, service manual, and the right tools, I do not recommend you try this yourself. I am a skilled mechanic and it took me 2.5hrs. of sweat and back pain. It is definitely a procedure where you could make the valves worse or damage something if you over adjust a valve. You should have a good torque wrench and the torque specs for every bolt on the car. Personally, If you are capable of doing a valve adjustment you should be capable of rebuilding an entire engine or at least understand every concept involved with the process. At least have a timing belt change under your belt. A small slip up in this area and you could destroy a valve or valve terrain. I only say these things because those of you who have no automotive know how should not try this. I fear you will really screw something up. If you cant afford to pay someone to do it you probably cant afford the consequences of screwing it up. I certainly wouldn’t try it without the manual. It is pretty clear on what to do but doing it right is another matter. Just something to think about.
acutee is offline  
Old 07-25-2008, 02:41 PM
  #29  
Registered Member
 
rob-2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area
Age: 64
Posts: 1,449
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
FYI - Brought my car by my mechanic, he confirms in person the sound has been resolved.
rob-2 is offline  
Old 07-25-2008, 05:27 PM
  #30  
Registered Member
 
rob-2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area
Age: 64
Posts: 1,449
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
For people looking to do their own valve adjustment I have an extra set of gasgets, including spark plug gaskets and bolt rub. I'll throw in a free can of carb cleaner and ship it to you if you pick it up for the cost I paid for them $48. I ordered two, thinking they were eaches but they're sets.

It's been opened but everything is in there.
rob-2 is offline  
Old 07-26-2008, 11:35 AM
  #31  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 230 Likes on 163 Posts
uploading pics...and videos....
phee is offline  
Old 07-26-2008, 11:48 AM
  #32  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 230 Likes on 163 Posts
Alright guys...

Alright Guys
phee is offline  
Old 07-26-2008, 12:50 PM
  #33  
I got the Shifts
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
phee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 30
Posts: 14,204
Received 230 Likes on 163 Posts
This guide is for those who are afraid

Tools needed:
feeler guage (go-no go) or regular with blades (this is what i used)
number 10 socket wrench
extension for socket
hex kit for removing the coils
needle nose pliers (short and long)
flat head screw driver
and a 19 socket wrench to turn the power steering pulley (its easier than turning the other one so bare with me)
buddy
cute girlfriend to take pics
music
confidence

make sure engine is stone cold. like cooled over night.
remove battery cable
remove key from ignition


ok, first step is to remove your intake. im not going to go into this because there are like 12497124614763 DIY's on how to do this. you engine should look like this


next step is to remove your throttle cables, just pull the throttle all the way open and slide out the bead to the side and its done


remove the throttle cable from the throttle body assembly be undoing the two nuts holding them in place (mark the position of the nuts for easy reinstallation.


remove our vacuum hoses by pressing the clamps with your pliers and sliding the hose off with your hand or the flat head. DO NOT USE THE PLIERS ON THE HOSEs IT WILL DAMAGE THEM





remove all the clips and electronic connnections (i dont have a pic) they are all around the throttle body

remove the plenum with your 10 socket and extension


after you remove your plenum, cover it with a clean shirt or something so that nothing falls in


get some throttle body cleaner and soak that egr upppppp and clean it REAL good. i used a hanger to get the gunk out. looks like it had never been cleaned, and this already has the sleeve.


pop off the front valve cover with your 10 as well. there are 5 bolts (no need to remove the coils)


pretty clean eh?

we decided to remove the power steering hose for clearance purposes, this is completely optional



remove your rear spark plug coils because they wont let the rear valve cover slide off like the front one



guess the new seafoam method STILL only reaches 3 cylinders

Now is a good time to remove your spark plugs to relive pressure that gets built up in the engine when you begine to turn it


remove your timing belt cover with the flat socket 10 and your hand
there are 5 bolts. one is behind the Psteering belt, next is above the alternator, another one is in an indention in the case, the other two are visible.




OFFTOPIC
how does the belt look pros? it felt pretty sturdy and not dry at all


now while you fight to get that damn cover off(i know i did) DO NOT try to pry out with a screw driver on the pulley that will cause some serious damage. do not try to yank it out at brute force.
the reason it will not come out easily is because the power steering belt is there and the indenture fr the middle bolt is pretty long. you can loosen the tension on the belt. or you can do what i did and push the belt WITH YOUR HAND and wiggle the cover off.

you should see this

tadaaaa!!!

back to work
take notice of the numbers on the pulley (thanks honda, you did something right ) these numbers represent the cylinder banks and they are out of order because of the firing order. here is how it works

123 <rear
---- <plenum
456 <front

so when you do your adjustment you will be adjusting bank 1 then bank 4 then bank 2 then bank 5 then bank 3 then bank 6. got that? good, if not...put everything back together and go to sleep. just kidding, ask for clarification.

heres the number


ok. now we want to place our number 19 socket over the power steering pulley this is the pulley in the middle, to the left of the timing belt pulley.
turn the engine CLOCKWISE. till you get the line next to the number one aligned with the line behnd the pulley (this is called top-dead-center or TDC from here on)
it should look like this


now pay attention. here is how your valves work.
all the outer valves are exhaust. that means the ones closest to the front bumper and rear bumper are exhaust valves and need to be within .28-.32mm (.011-.013inches).

all the inner valves are the intake valves. this means that the valves closest to the plenum or center of the engine are the intake valves and they need to be within .20-.24mm (.008-.008 inches) here is the pic (thanks rob)



ok. now we understand. take your first feeler guage (exhaust or intake) and slide it below this screw in bank number 1. make sure it is the appropriate size for the valve (the one pictured here is the exhaust valve screw for bank #1) there are four valves per bank, two intake and two exhaust. adjust the screw so that the feeler guage doesnt slide in too easy but doesnt get clamped. it should slide but you feel a bit of drag, kind of like an erasor on paper.

^thats the screw im talking about.
once you find the correct amount of adjustment for the screw hold it in place with the flat head screw driver and tighten the nut using a wrench. MAKE SURE NOT TO MOVE THE SCREW WHEN TIGHTENING. slide your feeler guage under it to double check afterwards and if its good move to the next 3 or readjust.

ok. you repeat the steps for every cylinder after that by turning the psteering pulley CLOCKWISE and aligning each cylinder to TDC
like this



etc etc.

when you are done. put it all back together



Notes:you can make your buddy do the exhaust valves while you do the intake valves or vice versa. this will give you a break in between and minimize your chances of using the wrong feeler guage and messing up real bad.

remember to do one cylinder bank at a time. you cannot align #1 to top dead center and do #2-6. thats not how it works.

you must only turn CLOCKWISE. if you miss it, go around again. only turn counter-clockwise if you are withing 2 degrees, anything more and keep going.

you do not have to remove your spark plugs, but i do recommend it if you enjoy your back working correctly.

your engine may hesitate to start up quickly if you used alot of seafoam or throttle body cleaner to clean your valves, covers, intake plenum. i sprayed deep creep and it did nothing to my intake, then i sprayed TB cleaner (valvoline) and it got it nice and shiny. you decide. im sure the deep creep didnt work because it wasnt hot.

hope this helps. feel free to ask questions.

ill post a final running vid
phee is offline  
The following users liked this post:
shamal (12-14-2014)
Old 07-26-2008, 01:39 PM
  #34  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
seafoam vac port isnt meant to clean inside the valve covers- thats what doing it in the engine oil is for- and would require driving to splash it everywhere and clean the crud up for you.
Carb cleaner works on a different level than seafoam- different type of products.
foam left overnight will clean that stuff!

You should be rinsing the manifold with water to remove all the cleaners~
01tl4tl is offline  
Old 07-26-2008, 01:40 PM
  #35  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
Explain to me exactly how putting foam in at the TB throat of the intake manifold is not getting to all the cyls--- not even logical phee
01tl4tl is offline  
Old 07-26-2008, 01:58 PM
  #36  
wham bam thank you ma'am
iTrader: (8)
 
Rajca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Illinois
Age: 29
Posts: 10,316
Received 35 Likes on 31 Posts
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
seafoam vac port isnt meant to clean inside the valve covers- thats what doing it in the engine oil is for- and would require driving to splash it everywhere and clean the crud up for you.
Carb cleaner works on a different level than seafoam- different type of products.
foam left overnight will clean that stuff!

You should be rinsing the manifold with water to remove all the cleaners~
so if i were to put seafoam in my oil and drive it around and leave it overnight and then drive it again and change the oil, it will be ok?
Rajca is offline  
Old 07-26-2008, 01:58 PM
  #37  
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
 
MurdaZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Age: 33
Posts: 1,862
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
decent write up
MurdaZ is offline  
Old 07-26-2008, 02:06 PM
  #38  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
raj- yes thats fine- Its best---- if you suspect lots of crud buildup, and the oil is at 7500 already- the filter will not be able to hold the amount of crud released into it-
Then install a new filter-add 5-8 oz foam to oil- drive around- drive around again the next day and change it with engine warm
That will do the very best job for you
01tl4tl is offline  
The following users liked this post:
shamal (12-14-2014)
Old 07-26-2008, 02:13 PM
  #39  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 59
Posts: 33,536
Received 1,107 Likes on 1,039 Posts
phee described a pressure- drag feeling to setting the valves correctly.
A proper Go NoGo feeler guage has a flat surface of the thickness stated and about 1/2 inch up its length - it reaches a much thicker step-
I use both types for faster results dialing them in and getting perfect.

See the DIY on Thermoblock install and EGR cleaning for great manifold tips and what to remove from the manifold to clean it.
There is a specific honda way using a parts washer machine- not pressure, just running solvent- thru each intake runner and egr port- then turn it upside down so it drains out and do all of them again. Then rinse with water and dry- compressed air helpful, but sun or hairdryer on cold works too
Must be dry- no water allowed in the engine ever!
01tl4tl is offline  
The following users liked this post:
shamal (12-14-2014)
Old 07-26-2008, 04:58 PM
  #40  
Registered Member
 
rob-2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area
Age: 64
Posts: 1,449
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Video!!!! Does it sounds better?
rob-2 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Valve Adjustment DIY in progress


Contact Us - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.