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Valve Adjustment DIY in progress
ill be doing my valve adjustment today, if the weather permits.
i plan on providing pictures and a specific write up including the tools needed for the job. i want this thread to be all about the job so im asking the Vets of the forum to chime in with helpful hints and recommendations for it. 01tl4tl has stated that a go-no-go feeler gauge be used. so i purchased it at autozone for 3.49. :thumbsup: thanks for Rob for providing the pages :thumbsup: |
Make sure the engine is stone cold when doing this.
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expect 6 hours, its a lot of stuff to remove to get to the job- then like rob discovered- the first 2 cylinders are for learning- then the others are easy as you get the hang of how the feel is on adjuster and getting it right. Then go back and redo the learners~
you found an actual go-no/go guage for 4 bucks? It has a step type design so it only goes a little ways and changes its thickness dramatically so as to NO go- right? I use a snap on- a pro guage thats 12 bucks- precision is everything in this job Phee- you already seafoamed so good there- and you did the engine oil with foam too correct? so totally ready to do the adjustments now |
got the foam done real good. remember? do you have a link to the guage you have?
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I use the plate feeler type, like the sims. you will need to turn the crankshaft accordingly to bring the valves to tdc; make sure to turn the crankshaft back and forth to set the valve at highest point before adjusting.
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I picked up the snap on go-no-go for $12 delivered, and also used a regular feeler guage. I feel having both was helpful. There is alot of travel on the regular feeler to help you get the 'feel' and then we checked with the go-no-go. (Sorry phee, forgot to mention that).
Another thing, remember to plug everything back in. We missed 2 coolant lines that run into the throttle body and loss 1/2 qt on the garage floor. It might be wise to have extra fluids available. After doing the work, put it all back together slowly, do NOT over tighten the valve cover bolts (just hand tight and no more) then if you have a moment clean the intake EGR ports again, never hurts. Do the work with a fan moving the air around or the garage door open, as you turn the motor over you're going to get gas. I got everything set up the night before, car in the spot I wanted, tools out, instructions and ran over the job to ensure once I took it apart I didn't need to make a run somewhere. It ended up being a 6-7 hour job for us, we stopped for beers and we did do the first 2 cycle again. You'll need a jack and pillars. The car will need to be raised to turn the motor over. Don't forget towels for leaning against the car. Idle the car for 5min or so and watch for fluid before you do any driving. |
sounds good guys, i also found this article on how to use the feeler guage for the n00bs http://www.reluctantmechanic.com/usi...ness_gauge.php
i also have another question. since i will have the engine open, can i clean everything with throttle body cleaner? |
Originally Posted by phee
sounds good guys, i also found this article on how to use the feeler guage for the n00bs http://www.reluctantmechanic.com/usi...ness_gauge.php
i also have another question. since i will have the engine open, can i clean everything with throttle body cleaner? |
and this is for the go-nogo guage
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go-NoGo_gauge |
Originally Posted by rob-2
What's everything?
what did you clean? |
im gonna have to do this soon. please make a diy with lots of pics.
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Do not turn the engine ~back and forth~ the engine rotates ONE direction ONLY
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Do not turn the engine ~back and forth~ the engine rotates ONE direction ONLY
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Originally Posted by jproy
What specifically will happen to the J32 that is detrimental if you rotate it backwards with the crank pulley bolt?
FYI - I missed the valve line up slightly and backed it towards the correct position. I've driven 400 miles since the work on Saturday without any troubles. |
well guys, i havent been able to get to it yet. but im set up for tomoro morning. im thinking about making a video instead of a diy.we will see though. im just looking for a reason to use my new MBP
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videos are better than pics, but not all of us have tv in the garage to watch the video and do the valves, if u could get both that would be great.
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Originally Posted by rob-2
FYI - I missed the valve line up slightly and backed it towards the correct position. I've driven 400 miles since the work on Saturday without any troubles.
You did exactly what it needs to be done. Every turn you make, the crakshaft will jump the turn and noway you can make it at perfect point. You will slightly miss the perfect position, so just jiggle it back and forth to make it perfect. If you don't jiggle it to make it at perfect tdc, it will take you forever to adjust your valves. Of course you don't want to do a big turn backward. |
a degree or 2 is ok- deciding that its faster to turn it the other directiojn in order to get to the next cylinder--well now we are talking about a bunch of parts designed to go one direction
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Originally Posted by Rajca
videos are better than pics, but not all of us have tv in the garage to watch the video and do the valves, if u could get both that would be great.
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Originally Posted by rob-2
FYI - I missed the valve line up slightly and backed it towards the correct position. I've driven 400 miles since the work on Saturday without any troubles.
That was my point exactly. 01tl4tl posted not to do it. I have done many valve adjustments and there is absolutely nothing wrong with rotating it backwards to line up a piston and valves at TDC, NOTHING. What is a problem is when the ignition is on and the car is moving and the assembly gets rotated backwards like in a spinout going backwards in a forward gear at high speed. I wanted to see why he said that. The mechanics at the dealer rotate them backwards a little to line ‘em up sometimes if they pass TDC. However, I don’t recommend you put a breaker bar on the crank pulley and go to town rotating that sucker counter clock wise (backwards). I don’t see how it would hurt anything though if you did with the ignition off and the batt. disconnected. You might push some debris from the oil filter past the one way valve back into the motor if you went to town on it. :2cents: A valve adjustment requires a steady hand, patients, skill with a feeler gauge, and most of all intelligence. If you don’t have the Acura service book, thorough knowledge of auto mechanics and tools, service manual, and the right tools, I do not recommend you try this yourself. I am a skilled mechanic and it took me 2.5hrs. of sweat and back pain. It is definitely a procedure where you could make the valves worse or damage something if you over adjust a valve. You should have a good torque wrench and the torque specs for every bolt on the car. Personally, If you are capable of doing a valve adjustment you should be capable of rebuilding an entire engine or at least understand every concept involved with the process. At least have a timing belt change under your belt. A small slip up in this area and you could destroy a valve or valve terrain. I only say these things because those of you who have no automotive know how should not try this. I fear you will really screw something up. If you cant afford to pay someone to do it you probably cant afford the consequences of screwing it up. I certainly wouldn’t try it without the manual. It is pretty clear on what to do but doing it right is another matter. Just something to think about. :2cents: |
I use a remote starter/tap- switch to advance the engine- then if it doesnt stop exact on the marks, I just crank it around again- thats what I was taught decades ago, and how I will always do it.
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ok guys. im there today. someone post up torque specs while im at it. thanks
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14lbs on the nut that locks the screw on the rocker (I believe it's called that).
I couldn't find the other tq specs on the other bolts. |
Alright. Thanks. Please keep looking because I'm on the blackberry and its way harder to find. I found that my egr and my pcv are clogged real bad. I'm cleaning them now. Got my metal hanger in hand lol.
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Use carb cleaner on the ERG ports, not a hanger.
There doesn't appear to be specs for the others, best use caution on tightening things up. Use a smaller ratchet to help prevent over tightening smaller bolts. |
The erg port is easiest cleaned with a pressure washer on the upper intake and upper intake cover while both are removed from the engine.
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Pulled all the gink out with the hanger and carb cleaner.
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One question for you, when removing the crankshaft bolt, using an airgun, going counter clockwise to remove the bolt, the crank pulley will turn backward like half turn or full turn on an stubborn bolt, is that okay?
Originally Posted by jproy
That was my point exactly. 01tl4tl posted not to do it. I have done many valve adjustments and there is absolutely nothing wrong with rotating it backwards to line up a piston and valves at TDC, NOTHING. What is a problem is when the ignition is on and the car is moving and the assembly gets rotated backwards like in a spinout going backwards in a forward gear at high speed. I wanted to see why he said that. The mechanics at the dealer rotate them backwards a little to line ‘em up sometimes if they pass TDC. However, I don’t recommend you put a breaker bar on the crank pulley and go to town rotating that sucker counter clock wise (backwards). I don’t see how it would hurt anything though if you did with the ignition off and the batt. disconnected. You might push some debris from the oil filter past the one way valve back into the motor if you went to town on it. :2cents:
A valve adjustment requires a steady hand, patients, skill with a feeler gauge, and most of all intelligence. If you don’t have the Acura service book, thorough knowledge of auto mechanics and tools, service manual, and the right tools, I do not recommend you try this yourself. I am a skilled mechanic and it took me 2.5hrs. of sweat and back pain. It is definitely a procedure where you could make the valves worse or damage something if you over adjust a valve. You should have a good torque wrench and the torque specs for every bolt on the car. Personally, If you are capable of doing a valve adjustment you should be capable of rebuilding an entire engine or at least understand every concept involved with the process. At least have a timing belt change under your belt. A small slip up in this area and you could destroy a valve or valve terrain. I only say these things because those of you who have no automotive know how should not try this. I fear you will really screw something up. If you cant afford to pay someone to do it you probably cant afford the consequences of screwing it up. I certainly wouldn’t try it without the manual. It is pretty clear on what to do but doing it right is another matter. Just something to think about. :2cents: |
FYI - Brought my car by my mechanic, he confirms in person the sound has been resolved.
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For people looking to do their own valve adjustment I have an extra set of gasgets, including spark plug gaskets and bolt rub. I'll throw in a free can of carb cleaner and ship it to you if you pick it up for the cost I paid for them $48. I ordered two, thinking they were eaches but they're sets.
It's been opened but everything is in there. |
uploading pics...and videos....
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Alright guys...
Alright Guys
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This guide is for those who are afraid
Tools needed:
feeler guage (go-no go) or regular with blades (this is what i used) number 10 socket wrench extension for socket hex kit for removing the coils needle nose pliers (short and long) flat head screw driver and a 19 socket wrench to turn the power steering pulley (its easier than turning the other one so bare with me) :yum: buddy :thumbsup: cute girlfriend to take pics :toocool: music confidence make sure engine is stone cold. like cooled over night. remove battery cable remove key from ignition ok, first step is to remove your intake. im not going to go into this because there are like 12497124614763 DIY's on how to do this. you engine should look like this http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/5881/img5221dj2.jpg next step is to remove your throttle cables, just pull the throttle all the way open and slide out the bead to the side and its done :thumbsup: http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/8854/img5222us6.jpg remove the throttle cable from the throttle body assembly be undoing the two nuts holding them in place (mark the position of the nuts for easy reinstallation. http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/1484/img5223ep6.jpg remove our vacuum hoses by pressing the clamps with your pliers and sliding the hose off with your hand or the flat head. DO NOT USE THE PLIERS ON THE HOSEs IT WILL DAMAGE THEM http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/3373/img5224ht2.jpg http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/9774/img5225zy4.jpg http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/7622/img5227sg9.jpg http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/4502/img5228ey9.jpg remove all the clips and electronic connnections (i dont have a pic) they are all around the throttle body remove the plenum with your 10 socket and extension http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/6999/img5226na1.jpg after you remove your plenum, cover it with a clean shirt or something so that nothing falls in :ugh: http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/705/img5229pa9.jpg get some throttle body cleaner and soak that egr upppppp and clean it REAL good. i used a hanger to get the gunk out. looks like it had never been cleaned, and this already has the sleeve. http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/1975/img5231qg0.jpg pop off the front valve cover with your 10 as well. there are 5 bolts (no need to remove the coils) http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/6366/img5232ep7.jpg pretty clean eh? we decided to remove the power steering hose for clearance purposes, this is completely optional http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/3542/img5234jt5.jpg http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/572/img5235gx5.jpg remove your rear spark plug coils because they wont let the rear valve cover slide off like the front one http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/9070/img5236uy9.jpg http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/4071/img5238dk1.jpg http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/8502/img5239nr1.jpg guess the new seafoam method STILL only reaches 3 cylinders :whyme: Now is a good time to remove your spark plugs to relive pressure that gets built up in the engine when you begine to turn it remove your timing belt cover with the flat socket 10 and your hand :tongue: there are 5 bolts. one is behind the Psteering belt, next is above the alternator, another one is in an indention in the case, the other two are visible. http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/1346/img5240kc3.jpg http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/8317/img5241aw6.jpg http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/5273/img5242gz4.jpg OFFTOPIC how does the belt look pros? it felt pretty sturdy and not dry at all http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/7233/img5243hq0.jpg now while you fight to get that damn cover off(i know i did) DO NOT try to pry out with a screw driver on the pulley that will cause some serious damage. do not try to yank it out at brute force. the reason it will not come out easily is because the power steering belt is there and the indenture fr the middle bolt is pretty long. you can loosen the tension on the belt. or you can do what i did and push the belt WITH YOUR HAND and wiggle the cover off. you should see this http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/6520/img5244by5.jpg tadaaaa!!! back to work take notice of the numbers on the pulley (thanks honda, you did something right :thumbsup: ) these numbers represent the cylinder banks and they are out of order because of the firing order. here is how it works 123 <rear ---- <plenum 456 <front so when you do your adjustment you will be adjusting bank 1 then bank 4 then bank 2 then bank 5 then bank 3 then bank 6. got that? good, if not...put everything back together and go to sleep. just kidding, ask for clarification. heres the number http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/2276/img5245ki8.jpg ok. now we want to place our number 19 socket over the power steering pulley this is the pulley in the middle, to the left of the timing belt pulley. turn the engine CLOCKWISE. till you get the line next to the number one aligned with the line behnd the pulley (this is called top-dead-center or TDC from here on) it should look like this http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/33/img5247dm4.jpg now pay attention. here is how your valves work. all the outer valves are exhaust. that means the ones closest to the front bumper and rear bumper are exhaust valves and need to be within .28-.32mm (.011-.013inches). all the inner valves are the intake valves. this means that the valves closest to the plenum or center of the engine are the intake valves and they need to be within .20-.24mm (.008-.008 inches) here is the pic (thanks rob) http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/7...elayoutnz4.jpg http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/7...31f3ae397f.jpg ok. now we understand. take your first feeler guage (exhaust or intake) and slide it below this screw in bank number 1. make sure it is the appropriate size for the valve (the one pictured here is the exhaust valve screw for bank #1) there are four valves per bank, two intake and two exhaust. adjust the screw so that the feeler guage doesnt slide in too easy but doesnt get clamped. it should slide but you feel a bit of drag, kind of like an erasor on paper. http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/2225/img5248fa8.jpg ^thats the screw im talking about. once you find the correct amount of adjustment for the screw hold it in place with the flat head screw driver and tighten the nut using a wrench. MAKE SURE NOT TO MOVE THE SCREW WHEN TIGHTENING. slide your feeler guage under it to double check afterwards and if its good move to the next 3 or readjust. ok. you repeat the steps for every cylinder after that by turning the psteering pulley CLOCKWISE and aligning each cylinder to TDC like this http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/2227/img5250tj2.jpg http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/2642/img5251vz3.jpg http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3258/img5252ht7.jpg etc etc. when you are done. put it all back together http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/6540/img5264gy8.jpg http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/5995/img5220zr2.jpg Notes:you can make your buddy do the exhaust valves while you do the intake valves or vice versa. this will give you a break in between and minimize your chances of using the wrong feeler guage and messing up real bad. remember to do one cylinder bank at a time. you cannot align #1 to top dead center and do #2-6. thats not how it works. you must only turn CLOCKWISE. if you miss it, go around again. only turn counter-clockwise if you are withing 2 degrees, anything more and keep going. you do not have to remove your spark plugs, but i do recommend it if you enjoy your back working correctly. your engine may hesitate to start up quickly if you used alot of seafoam or throttle body cleaner to clean your valves, covers, intake plenum. i sprayed deep creep and it did nothing to my intake, then i sprayed TB cleaner (valvoline) and it got it nice and shiny. you decide. im sure the deep creep didnt work because it wasnt hot. hope this helps. feel free to ask questions. ill post a final running vid |
seafoam vac port isnt meant to clean inside the valve covers- thats what doing it in the engine oil is for- and would require driving to splash it everywhere and clean the crud up for you.
Carb cleaner works on a different level than seafoam- different type of products. foam left overnight will clean that stuff! You should be rinsing the manifold with water to remove all the cleaners~ |
Explain to me exactly how putting foam in at the TB throat of the intake manifold is not getting to all the cyls--- not even logical phee
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
seafoam vac port isnt meant to clean inside the valve covers- thats what doing it in the engine oil is for- and would require driving to splash it everywhere and clean the crud up for you.
Carb cleaner works on a different level than seafoam- different type of products. foam left overnight will clean that stuff! You should be rinsing the manifold with water to remove all the cleaners~ |
decent write up
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raj- yes thats fine- Its best---- if you suspect lots of crud buildup, and the oil is at 7500 already- the filter will not be able to hold the amount of crud released into it-
Then install a new filter-add 5-8 oz foam to oil- drive around- drive around again the next day and change it with engine warm That will do the very best job for you |
phee described a pressure- drag feeling to setting the valves correctly.
A proper Go NoGo feeler guage has a flat surface of the thickness stated and about 1/2 inch up its length - it reaches a much thicker step- I use both types for faster results dialing them in and getting perfect. See the DIY on Thermoblock install and EGR cleaning for great manifold tips and what to remove from the manifold to clean it. There is a specific honda way using a parts washer machine- not pressure, just running solvent- thru each intake runner and egr port- then turn it upside down so it drains out and do all of them again. Then rinse with water and dry- compressed air helpful, but sun or hairdryer on cold works too Must be dry- no water allowed in the engine ever! |
Video!!!! Does it sounds better?
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