Type of oil
10-03-2014, 02:10 PM
#1
Type of oil
Hello
Last time i was here according to the forum was 09/16/2013..wow...that is embarrassing
Anyway, I have a dilemma that I need resolved. Quick history:
I owned a 2003 Acura TL Base for 5 years from 2006 to 2011. I bought it with 19K miles and sold it with 111K. During that entire time I always used Mobil 1 synthetic, I would change it myself or take the oil to a shop and have them do it with my parts. After I sold that car, I got a 2003 Acura TL Type S. I got it with 140K from a one-owner older dude who drove it like it was a Buick sedan. I put Injen CAI and lowered it on Eibach springs/KYB shocks. In last 12 months I've done 3x3 Honda ATF job, BG Engine induction service (to clean it up), coolant flush, brake fluid flush, blah blah, doesn't matter. Anyway, the point is, I take extreme care of the car but I drive it hard. Driving it hard doesn't mean I cross that fine line into abuse. Never SS shift when cold, never rev the engine cold, never downshift insanity into red line, etc. But I am known to do hard acceleration and I've occasionally hit 135+ and once hit the computer block at 150 mph (no proof as that would be insanity to use a hand for picture/video while doing that speed). Not proud of it but at the same time I loved the thrill and sound of the V6 vTEC CAI. I did in a controlled environment on back Wisconsin highway with a help of a friend on Bluetooth in the car ready to warn me if a vehicle is coming my way (or cop) in the direction where I'm traveling. I did this with car that is lowered and has brand new shocks/springs with General AS-03 tires (rated to 168+mph) on dry sunny day. Anyway, I'm off topic. I am currently at 169K miles. Place I take my car to is a dedicated Honda/Acura shop. I've been using synthetic since I got it but recently the owner and Honda mastermind that owns the place told me to switch to a certain high mileage blend that is also good for 4500-5000 miles. It costs just as much as synthetic, maybe $5-10 less. But I'm little nervous about that "blend" thing. I'm due at the shop in a week (300 miles left on the oil) so I would like to know what you guys suggest. Other then CAI and hard driving, car is stock (engine wise). So my question is: Do I go with this high mileage blend or do I stick with Mobil 1 synthetic? Also, what grade do I go at at this stage of the car's life? Again, 03 Type S. Thanks everyone, good to be back here.
Last time i was here according to the forum was 09/16/2013..wow...that is embarrassing
Anyway, I have a dilemma that I need resolved. Quick history:
I owned a 2003 Acura TL Base for 5 years from 2006 to 2011. I bought it with 19K miles and sold it with 111K. During that entire time I always used Mobil 1 synthetic, I would change it myself or take the oil to a shop and have them do it with my parts. After I sold that car, I got a 2003 Acura TL Type S. I got it with 140K from a one-owner older dude who drove it like it was a Buick sedan. I put Injen CAI and lowered it on Eibach springs/KYB shocks. In last 12 months I've done 3x3 Honda ATF job, BG Engine induction service (to clean it up), coolant flush, brake fluid flush, blah blah, doesn't matter. Anyway, the point is, I take extreme care of the car but I drive it hard. Driving it hard doesn't mean I cross that fine line into abuse. Never SS shift when cold, never rev the engine cold, never downshift insanity into red line, etc. But I am known to do hard acceleration and I've occasionally hit 135+ and once hit the computer block at 150 mph (no proof as that would be insanity to use a hand for picture/video while doing that speed). Not proud of it but at the same time I loved the thrill and sound of the V6 vTEC CAI. I did in a controlled environment on back Wisconsin highway with a help of a friend on Bluetooth in the car ready to warn me if a vehicle is coming my way (or cop) in the direction where I'm traveling. I did this with car that is lowered and has brand new shocks/springs with General AS-03 tires (rated to 168+mph) on dry sunny day. Anyway, I'm off topic. I am currently at 169K miles. Place I take my car to is a dedicated Honda/Acura shop. I've been using synthetic since I got it but recently the owner and Honda mastermind that owns the place told me to switch to a certain high mileage blend that is also good for 4500-5000 miles. It costs just as much as synthetic, maybe $5-10 less. But I'm little nervous about that "blend" thing. I'm due at the shop in a week (300 miles left on the oil) so I would like to know what you guys suggest. Other then CAI and hard driving, car is stock (engine wise). So my question is: Do I go with this high mileage blend or do I stick with Mobil 1 synthetic? Also, what grade do I go at at this stage of the car's life? Again, 03 Type S. Thanks everyone, good to be back here.
10-03-2014, 02:21 PM
#2
Realistically any oil with the recommended viscosity is fine. If you tow or drive in extreme hot/cold conditions then synthetic would be recommended but not required. Synthetics flow better in the cold (vs a non-synthetic of equal viscosity), and they are more stable and predictable in the extreme hot. Do what you feel is right for your car, and change your oil based on the OCI for your car.
10-03-2014, 02:27 PM
#3
hate to break it to you, but the mobil1 youve been using is a blend and not considered a true synthetic.
so, you've been putting a blend in this whole time.
and now your mechanic put in another blend.
they will all blend in.
Dont worry so much.
if you're wondering; ive experimented with mobil1 0w-40 which is considered a true synthetic. and ive switched back and fourth between the M1 5w-30 ep (the synthetic blend)
currently using a true synthetic, redline 5w30
so, you've been putting a blend in this whole time.
and now your mechanic put in another blend.
they will all blend in.
Dont worry so much.
if you're wondering; ive experimented with mobil1 0w-40 which is considered a true synthetic. and ive switched back and fourth between the M1 5w-30 ep (the synthetic blend)
currently using a true synthetic, redline 5w30
10-03-2014, 02:36 PM
#4
Moderator
Just FYI:
Mobil 1 Syntethic or the Silver CAP is a Blend not truly full synthetic.
Mobil 1 Extended Performance Syn or the Golden CAP is 100% Syntethic.
Switch in from Mobil 1 Silver to a "High Mileage Oil" is not an upgrade.. Switch to a 100 Syn oil and you will see the upgrade.
Royal Purple, Redline, AMSOIL, Mobil 1 Gold they are all 100% Syn as you will notice it from the price tag.
Mobil 1 Syntethic or the Silver CAP is a Blend not truly full synthetic.
Mobil 1 Extended Performance Syn or the Golden CAP is 100% Syntethic.
Switch in from Mobil 1 Silver to a "High Mileage Oil" is not an upgrade.. Switch to a 100 Syn oil and you will see the upgrade.
Royal Purple, Redline, AMSOIL, Mobil 1 Gold they are all 100% Syn as you will notice it from the price tag.
10-03-2014, 02:37 PM
#5
^i believe the only m1 true synthetic is its 0w-40 weight.
most of the m1 stuff is classified as grp III based oils.
only grp IV based oil is a true synthetic.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...ase-oil-groups
they (marketing teams) can call a group III a synthetic because its synthesized. see how tricky wording can be?
most of the m1 stuff is classified as grp III based oils.
only grp IV based oil is a true synthetic.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...ase-oil-groups
Group III base oils are greater than 90 percent saturates, less than 0.03 percent sulfur and have a viscosity index above 120. These oils are refined even more than Group II base oils and generally are severely hydrocracked (higher pressure and heat). This longer process is designed to achieve a purer base oil. Although made from crude oil, Group III base oils are sometimes described as synthesized hydrocarbons. Like Group II base oils, these oils are also becoming more prevalent.
Group IV base oils are polyalphaolefins (PAOs). These synthetic base oils are made through a process called synthesizing. They have a much broader temperature range and are great for use in extreme cold conditions and high heat applications.
Group IV base oils are polyalphaolefins (PAOs). These synthetic base oils are made through a process called synthesizing. They have a much broader temperature range and are great for use in extreme cold conditions and high heat applications.
Last edited by justnspace; 10-03-2014 at 02:42 PM.
10-03-2014, 02:45 PM
#6
Moderator
We'll I don't think it is a blend because the bottle clearly states "Full Synthetic" while the silver cap doesn't state this. Any lawyer would have a field day with that label if the Gold cap was a blend in reality.
Last edited by Skirmich; 10-03-2014 at 02:48 PM.
10-03-2014, 02:47 PM
#7
^marketing at its finest!
a grp IV oil with a high HTHS rate would be a great oil!!
redline 5w-30 HTHS( high temp. high shear) rate is 3.9%
the mobile 1 0w-40 has a shear rate of 3.7% almost as good as the redline!
you dont want your oil to shear.
a grp IV oil with a high HTHS rate would be a great oil!!
redline 5w-30 HTHS( high temp. high shear) rate is 3.9%
the mobile 1 0w-40 has a shear rate of 3.7% almost as good as the redline!
you dont want your oil to shear.
Last edited by justnspace; 10-03-2014 at 02:49 PM.
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10-03-2014, 02:49 PM
#8
Moderator
AMSOIL also said it was full synthetic and it burned my transmission while Honda puny Oil Based Z1 ruled over it? I don't believe 100% Syn oils are all better just because they are Syn.
If Mobil 1 Warranty my Engine for 15,000 Miles they must be doing something right. Does Redline warranty your engine for that long?
If Mobil 1 Warranty my Engine for 15,000 Miles they must be doing something right. Does Redline warranty your engine for that long?
10-03-2014, 02:51 PM
#9
the OP will be fine with any kind of oil he puts in his car.
they're all blends any way.
Im just fascinated with the chemistry involved with oils.
the composition of today's oils are A LOT BETTER than of yesteryears.
we can run up to 10k miles on a blend!
its amazing!
10-03-2014, 03:04 PM
#13
Can I get a simple suggestion without going into shear grade, viscosity, silver cap/full performance, etc...Please don't get me wrong but all replies sound exactly what my thought process is. Meaning, its all over the place. Can someone with a long history of ownership and maintenance on the 3.2 L J32A2 tell me what is the best course of action as far as oil goes for hard driving (Chicago climate). Also, filter recommendation. Thank you!
10-03-2014, 03:08 PM
#14
Can I get a simple suggestion without going into shear grade, viscosity, silver cap/full performance, etc...Please don't get me wrong but all replies sound exactly what my thought process is. Meaning, its all over the place. Can someone with a long history of ownership and maintenance on the 3.2 L J32A2 tell me what is the best course of action as far as oil goes for hard driving (Chicago climate). Also, filter recommendation. Thank you!
you could use a 0w-20 up to a 5w-30.
any brand will be fine.
castrol, mobil 1, pennzoil, etc.
So, if you wanted to stick to what you were using. go right ahead.
if you wanted to try something new, again, be my guest!
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loki (10-03-2014)
10-03-2014, 03:08 PM
#15
10-03-2014, 03:13 PM
#17
ive switched between brands, different weights, etc.
no harm no foul.
even in a pinch, ive combined different oil brands with no harm.
autozone usually has 25 dollar deals. 5 quarts with a filter.
10-03-2014, 03:18 PM
#19
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justnspace (10-03-2014)
10-03-2014, 03:47 PM
#21
Moderator
How does the size compares? According to K&N both the TL and the S2K uses the same HP-1004 filter.
10-03-2014, 03:49 PM
#22
Stay with your current m1 synthetic if you don't have any leak problem or oil burnt. If you have leaks or oil burnt then it is worthwhile to go with high mileage oil. high mileage oil does come with blend and fully syn.
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3.2TLc (10-04-2014)
10-03-2014, 04:02 PM
#23
Moderator
When I was working for Honda, we stocked the green HAMP filters, I used those because the parts guy sold them to me for the same price as the standard Honda filters.
10-04-2014, 02:35 PM
#26
Senior Moderator
There is NO reason to switch to a different type/blend of oil, or weight. Just stick with what you have been using.
10-04-2014, 06:20 PM
#27
^^^ Agree with all of the above, it appears as though the jury is in consensus.
10-05-2014, 03:27 AM
#31
Moderator
15K for Extended Performance.
I change it every year so that's roughly 11-13K totally fine by Blackstone Labs analysis.
In the same time I would have changed conventional oil 2 times and it would be more expensive in the long run.
I change it every year so that's roughly 11-13K totally fine by Blackstone Labs analysis.
In the same time I would have changed conventional oil 2 times and it would be more expensive in the long run.
10-06-2014, 02:54 PM
#32
99 TL, 06 E350
Been using the Castrol EDGE 5W-30 with the new FRAM Ultra oil filter. The results so far have blown me away. Check my thread to see my oil after 7000 kilometers.
10-07-2014, 12:27 PM
#33
Senior Moderator
10-07-2014, 02:27 PM
#34
Budget..the price of full syn is almost 3x the oil im using now and the benefit is not that big ofa diffrence and i dont have money to burn it's prolly better if it's a new car, but @ 230k nah i dont take it to the track either it's a POS point A to B transportation and there are other important areas that needs attention, plus it's better changing oil @ 7-8k to get rid of sludge and engine deposits.
at 15K you wont have any residue as with dino oil.
10-07-2014, 07:32 PM
#36
Senior Moderator
Budget..the price of full syn is almost 3x the oil im using now and the benefit is not that big ofa diffrence and i dont have money to burn it's prolly better if it's a new car, but @ 230k nah i dont take it to the track either it's a POS point A to B transportation and there are other important areas that needs attention, plus it's better changing oil @ 7-8k to get rid of sludge and engine deposits.
And if the motor is in good shape, you arent getting rid of sludge, especially in a motor that isnt known to make it, and any deposits that are in the oil are being trapped in the filter.
How do you know its better changing your oil at that mileage?? Have YOU had YOUR oil tested??? I have, and will continue to have it tested. I have gone over 20k miles on an oil change. I had the oul tested at that mileage and there was still plenty of life left to it. Nothing in the levels were elevated or were stating that i shouldnt have gone that long. My engine also sees whats considered Severe duty. It idles all day when not being driven (for work) and it sees plenty of redlines, revlimiters, extended time at high rpm. Stating that it costs 3x as much to run syn is
and for anyone in a cold weather location, its FAR better for your engine and cold starts.
10-07-2014, 08:06 PM
#37
3x as much??? Where are you getting your oil at??? I pay 24-27 dollars for 5qts of Penzoil plat pure plus or M1 EP at Walmart.
And if the motor is in good shape, you arent getting rid of sludge, especially in a motor that isnt known to make it, and any deposits that are in the oil are being trapped in the filter.
How do you know its better changing your oil at that mileage?? Have YOU had YOUR oil tested??? I have, and will continue to have it tested. I have gone over 20k miles on an oil change. I had the oul tested at that mileage and there was still plenty of life left to it. Nothing in the levels were elevated or were stating that i shouldnt have gone that long. My engine also sees whats considered Severe duty. It idles all day when not being driven (for work) and it sees plenty of redlines, revlimiters, extended time at high rpm. Stating that it costs 3x as much to run syn is and for anyone in a cold weather location, its FAR better for your engine and cold starts.
And if the motor is in good shape, you arent getting rid of sludge, especially in a motor that isnt known to make it, and any deposits that are in the oil are being trapped in the filter.
How do you know its better changing your oil at that mileage?? Have YOU had YOUR oil tested??? I have, and will continue to have it tested. I have gone over 20k miles on an oil change. I had the oul tested at that mileage and there was still plenty of life left to it. Nothing in the levels were elevated or were stating that i shouldnt have gone that long. My engine also sees whats considered Severe duty. It idles all day when not being driven (for work) and it sees plenty of redlines, revlimiters, extended time at high rpm. Stating that it costs 3x as much to run syn is
and for anyone in a cold weather location, its FAR better for your engine and cold starts.Pep boys and Autozone Mobil1 Extended 5Qt = $40
10-07-2014, 11:54 PM
#38
Budget..the price of full syn is almost 3x the oil im using now and the benefit is not that big ofa diffrence and i dont have money to burn it's prolly better if it's a new car, but @ 230k nah i dont take it to the track either it's a POS point A to B transportation and there are other important areas that needs attention, plus it's better changing oil @ 7-8k to get rid of sludge and engine deposits.
10-08-2014, 12:24 AM
#39
...when you say you're on a "budget" ... dam you make it sound like you're broke with no money to pay your pg& e, cell phone, rent, & have no food in your fridge. dude ... i mean come on .. i have 4 kids, a mortgage, all family necessities, cell phone bills for 5 of us, food for all 5 of us ... & i don't make very good money, & i can still manage to pay $50 for my royal purple oil & filter every 15k miles & like others are telling you, i am actually saving money over a 5-7k oil change schedule with cheaper oil that , from what i've read from numerous reliable sources over the years, IS putting more wear & tear on your engine than a full synth such as RP or REDLINE. So in reality, you're seemed budget is only costing you more both monetarily & in engine wear. & you also state that it is a daily driver "POS point A to B transportation" ... in that case, none of this should apply then & you will be fine with the cheapest P.O.S. oil from walmart, i mean since that's the same thing you see your car as, correct ???
My apologies looks like i offended quite a few with the POS comment.. im kidding.. it's not true... The car is superb, reliable and has exceeded all my expectations and as far as the oil goes yes im on a very tight budget and no im not discussing my personal life yall can F* off and im fine with the cheapest Mobil1 wal-mart and it's not costing me anything as long as i maintaine regular oil changes my engine wear isnt all that bad, as a matter fact i am more concerned with my transmission this is my main focus, plus there are lots more issues with the car at the moment Timing belt is way overdue, needs new brake pads/rotor and 4 new tires! Synthetic oil? don't think so.
10-08-2014, 04:39 AM
#40
... no offense taken or meant ... but others disagreeing with your opinions leads you to telling all of us... ??? ... wow i'd hate to get you REALLY mad !!! but anyhow, good luck with that tranny
Last edited by skwidstyle2; 10-08-2014 at 04:48 AM.