WDPTLS

Thanks for that info. Any insight on whether I could swap the TC with the HO21 and make it work?

01acls

I think you should return it for the correct 06 AV6. See the last part of my Post #80.

WDPTLS

The harness is different, but everything else looks the same. mounting points and stuff is what I meant.

01acls

Then I would say you have the correct AV6.

l don't remember which torque converter measurement is the correct one. For the correct torque converter I would advise you to read the last page of the AV6 swap thread very carefully.

Skirmich

Yeah junkyards are definitely pulling a fast one here... No way in hell a 2006 transmission will give you those issues, that is definitely a 2005 trans.

"More specific:
MAYAs = 03 to 04
BAYAs = 05 to 07 So technically 05 model is still a BAYA but got that TC that does not fit the TL/CL flex plate."

You can still make it work with the correct TC.. But it wont be a TRUE 2006/2007 AV6 Trans.

Skirmich

Just to be perfectly CLEAR the TC in the AV6 did not fit the holes in the Flexplate? Because the AV6 Torque Converter is actually SMALLER than the OE TC in the TL... The main issue here is that the incorrect TC wont bolt on to the flexplate due to the holes not lining up.

AGAIN:
The Correct AV6 Torque Converter is SMALLER than the Original TL TC but it WILL bolt on to the Flex Plate...
The Incorrect AV6 Torque Converter is SMALLER than the Original TL TC but it WONT bolt on to the Flex Plate....

Smaller in this case does not mean weaker, The TC in the AV6 is actually way more efficient in design and makes the car Accelerate Faster.

Iggy

Just pull the flex plate off the engine and hold it up the the AV6 converter. If the bolt holes line up you are good to go.

WDPTLS

I am having a tough time understanding what you mean by true. I understand completely that it is a different year, but is there a significant downfall to just swapping the TC and using the 05 trans? Will I run into issues with the trans or having random CEL's due to the TC?

SuperGreg

We just ASSume that '06/07 is the better design. The '05 should work fine, we are just guessing that longevity will be better with '06/07. I think the only real problem that people are running into is the incompatible bolt spacing for the TC/flex plate.

WDPTLS

I think I may just suck it up and slap a new TC on the 05 trans and call it a day. The junk yard guy is cool and said he will find me a new TC for the trans. If not ill just order it from RockAuto for $105. Wish me luck!

Skirmich

Should not be an issue.. You can use the 05 as is still a BAYA, just get the correct TC that lines up with your flexplate.

WDPTLS

Thank you guys for all of your help. I can't express enough how appreciative I am.

Iggy

WDP,
Any updates?

WDPTLS

Hey Iggy,. I ordered the new TC from RockAuto for $105. It should be here on Tuesday. In the meantime I swapped over all the required harnesses and stuff. I kept the original ATF warmer as I liked the serviceable filter. Everything is going just as the DIY stated. Doing the rear main seal, axle seals, and lower control arm today. Once I get the new TC, I will update again.

Iggy

cool. while you have the flex plate off for the rear seal hold it up to the AV6 TC that came with it. I'm curious if the bolt pattern is the same.

WDPTLS

will do.

WDPTLS

Hey Iggy, So I pulled off the flex plate yesterday and matched it up with the TC from the 2005 trans. Our theory is correct where the TC is smaller and the bolts with not match up. Luckily on the TC, it was a rebuilt one and had a code on it from the manufacturer. The bolt pattern of the original TC is 10.875 with a diameter of 10.375. The Dacco HO-21, which is confirmed the correct one for this transmission is a bolt batter of 11.25. I will be receiving the new TC on Tuesday and hopefully the trans will be mounted by Tuesday night. I will keep you all updated. Hopefully this info helps future swappers from any headache.

WDPTLS

So the new trans will be ready to go back in tomorrow. I do have 2 pressing questions. One is about the range switch. I am reading all over the forums that this will need to be adjusted after the trans is in. My problem is that I have found a post on how to actually adjust it? My second question is about the rear motor mount. I want to replace it while the trans is out, but I am having a tough time figuring out how to actually remove it, as it seems still pretty hard to get to even with the trans out. Could anybody shed some light on how to replace it? Preferably a DIY with pics, lol.

Thank you guys in advance.

Skirmich

Adjustment is EASY. But should be done after you plugged everything back in..
In order to adjust the TRS you need to be able to start the car so everything must be already in place with the battery connected.

1.- Install the TRS and leave its securing bolts slightly unbolted so you can rotate it while installed, Do not leave it wobbly it should remained fixed but able to turn it with small force.
2.- Turn the Key to Position II (Ready to start the car, DO NOT START IT)
3.- Put the transmission into NEUTRAL
4.- Adjust the TRS so the "N" in the Dashboard remains lit at every single Millimeter of slack in the Gear Shifter while in Neutral.. So if you grab the gear shifter and wobble it without shifting into R or D5, The "N" light in the dashboard remains ON at all times. If the light goes out without shifting into R or D5 then adjust it until all the slack is inside the "N" range.. Once you found the sweetspot tighten the TRS and you are DONE.

Rear Engine Mount has only 4 bolts it should be straight forward.

WDPTLS

Thank you so much for that info! Just a quick clarifying question, I should rotate the whole range switch right? Not just the little hole area?

With the rear mount, I am just having a tough time figuring out how to approach it with the trans out. Should I do it from the top or the side, if that's even possible? Should I do it after putting the trans back on? Dilemma dilemma lol

Iggy

Yes the whole switch. Only a couple of degrees. It's possible you may not have to change it at all.

I would definately change out the rear mount with the transmission out. You should be able to easily get to it from under. Taking it out from the top is a real PIA

WDPTLS

Thanks for the info guys. Also, as far as ATF goes, I am reading mixed reviews on Valvoline Maxlife and Honda ATF? Any recommendations? I am leaning more towards Valvoline at this point.

Skirmich

Use DW-1, That is my humble opinion.

Iggy

+1

Also, don't forget to fill the TC before you put it on.

01acls

I'm currently using 100% Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic. It works great.

​​​Also I've added a trans additive call XADO Automatic Trans 120. It's a ceramic coating to fill in micro scratches in metal. This stuff is awesome so far. I'm half way into it's treatment process of rejuvenating my trans... 400+ miles. The full treatment takes about 800 miles.

Right now I've already notice a big difference in how the car idles and drive. The transmission is a lot smoother, actually silky would be a better way of discribing it. I've notice less friction but more importantly the transmission seems to run cooler than before.

Anyway Maxlife or DW1 will work.

WDPTLS

Got the trans all bolted up today. Everything fit like a charm, except when I had a dowel pin in the same location twice lol. Went with Valvoline maxlife. The Dacco HO21 TC bolted right up without a problem. Hopefully tomorrow I can finish up more of the assembly. Will keep you guys updated.

bbsitum

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...mprove-950615/

However yours choice.

WDPTLS

Hey guys,

Just a quick update. I put in new motors and trans mounts in, filled the trans with Valvoline MaxLife, new radiator fluid, oil change, new lower control arm, new passenger side axle, new end links (not installed), new battery, new PCV, new spark plug and coil packs (not installed) and all new rotors and pads all around. I started the car up and everything worked like a charm!!!!!! But I have one concern. I have not driven the car yet as I don't have the wheels on, but I have the VSA and (!) lights on. I vaguely remember reading on what causes it and how it is resolved. Would anyone mind reminding me? Thank you again!

Iggy

Pretty sure once you start driving and the wheels all start spinning the same speed those lights will go away.

WDPTLS

Sounds good. My new tires will be in next week. Gonna paint the rims before I put them back on and do the brakes. Hopefully the car should be back on the road by next week. Let's see what happens!

WDPTLS

Hey Guys!!!

So I finally got the car off the jack stands today. Let me tell you, this new trans feels amazing! Thank you all for helping me out through this process. I will post pics as soon as I can. In the meantime, I have a couple of questions. After test driving the car, I got hit with some CELs. I pulled the codes and heres what I got.

P0131 - O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1 (I think this is because of an exhaust leak I have prior to the axlebacks)
P0740 - Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit / Open
P1399 - No Info (LOL)

I know P1399 is random misfire. I changed all of the spark plugs and coil packs prior to starting the car. Anything else I should look for?

I am not too worried about the O2 sensor code as I will be putting new headers on next week so I will diagnose that since I will be down there anyway.

I have zero idea on what P0740 is. Any help or direction on this is much appreciated.

Thank you all in advance!!! It feels so RIGHT to be driving this car again.

Skirmich

Re-check all your wiring.. Make sure you didn´t leave the TC Solenoid unplugged.

WDPTLS

Any insight on P1399? Strange there is no other codes relating to misfire.

01acls

1399 is the code for a temporary misfire of a cylinder or cylinders.

According to some AZ experts here the 740 code is eminent

I say you probably have a faulty solenoid(s) or bad connection.

Inspect the following solenoids...

Pressure A/B, Control A, and Lockup.

Skirmich

P0740 death only applies to the OG B7WA.

tbizzle

This has been a great thread to read and follow! I got a lot of info for when mine inevitably goes out. Although I am not competent or have the resources to do it myself.