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So...I was able to "complete" the timing belt on my 2002 Acura TL. I also changed the thermostat and flushed the coolant. The car stalls after about 15 minutes of driving and I ran the scan with the computer. I have attached the codes that come from the computer and want to see if anyone has a clue where I should start. The parts store recommended that I replace the oxygen sensor to see if that fixes the problem but I feel like there is more to it than that. I am concerned that when I replaced the camshaft pulley I may have put the little bronze colored gear piece that goes over the camshaft sensor backwards. Is that what the code is referring to when it says "pulsar" and right front tire sensor? That will be a real PITA to flip but if that's what has to be done I will have to knock it out. I know that one of the bolts sheared off on the top intake plate and it is sucking air in. I put tape over to see if that was the issue but it still stalled. I know the power steering belt needs to be adjusted but I don't think that plays into the car stalling. I want to fully think out what the issue is so I don't spend hundreds of dollars replacing parts that don't need to be replaced. Someone please help me get in the right direction, Thanks! Some reason I cannot get the files to upload so below is a description.
I know that one of the bolts sheared off on the top intake plate and it is sucking air in. I put tape over to see if that was the issue but it still stalled.
Are you refferring to #13(on the link below); special flange bolt on the top intake plate? If so, then this 'LEAK' would be the first place I would start. It is the most accessible and simplest to fix. Drill out the embedded end of the bolt and replace it to correct that massive leak because tape is not going to cut it.
The parts store recommended that I replace the oxygen sensor to see if that fixes the problem but I feel like there is more to it than that. I am concerned that when I replaced the camshaft pulley I may have put the little bronze colored gear piece that goes over the camshaft sensor backwards. Is that what the code is referring to when it says "pulsar" and right front tire sensor? That will be a real PITA to flip but if that's what has to be done I will have to knock it out.
Is that '...little bronze colored gear piece that goes over the camshaft sensor backwards' present on the link below because I'm not finding it in the Helm's or the link below? Or are you referring to the camshaft pulley itself?
Are you refferring to #13(on the link below); special flange bolt on the top intake plate? If so, then this 'LEAK' would be the first place I would start. It is the most accessible and simplest to fix. Drill out the embedded end of the bolt and replace it to correct that massive leak because tape is not going to cut it.
Is that '...little bronze colored gear piece that goes over the camshaft sensor backwards' present on the link below because I'm not finding it in the Helm's or the link below? Or are you referring to the camshaft pulley itself?
check the above video at 40:41. That shiny piece is what I was referring to. Ok...makes sense. I ordered the bolt a while back and will make that my next priority.
check the above video at 40:41. That shiny piece is what I was referring to. Ok...makes sense. I ordered the bolt a while back and will make that my next priority.
OK, you are talking about the Timing Belt Guide Plate #13 on the Crankshaft pulley. In your original post you state 'camshaft', that's were the confusion was, no biggie. Yeah, if that is on backwards you'll need to fix that so that the 'concave' surface is facing 'out' as well.
I would wait until you get the 'leak' on the upper IM plate fixed first. That might just fix your O2 sensor codes. If it does not, then if the O2 sensors have over 100K on them then it may be advisable to replace them. Mine started to 'sh*t the bed' around that interval on my CLS6. Get Denso, usually rockauto or Amazon has the best prices.
OK, you are talking about the Timing Belt Guide Plate #13 on the Crankshaft pulley. In your original post you state 'camshaft', that's were the confusion was, no biggie. Yeah, if that is on backwards you'll need to fix that so that the 'concave' surface is facing 'out' as well.
I would wait until you get the 'leak' on the upper IM plate fixed first. That might just fix your O2 sensor codes. If it does not, then if the O2 sensors have over 100K on them then it may be advisable to replace them. Mine started to 'sh*t the bed' around that interval on my CLS6. Get Denso, usually rockauto or Amazon has the best prices.
is denso the Acura stock brand? I saw somewhere to make sure the new o2 sensors are the same as the existing because of the cpu or something. Also, are the sensors both the same or is the front different than the back?
i will check timing. You mean just make sure all 3 pulleys are at tdc through the little view ports? Or is there another way?
Yup that. One tooth of can do it. Problem is as as said it is bunch of codes. If you have 6 different codes it is timing off messing everything. Did it recently too. https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...eplace-963321/
Is there anything else that could cause the 6 codes? Seems like a few are geared towards the right front wheel sensor. I will fix the bolt today and double check the timing. It was dead on originally..I even rotated the crank 4 times to double check before I started the engine.
is denso the Acura stock brand? I saw somewhere to make sure the new o2 sensors are the same as the existing because of the cpu or something. Also, are the sensors both the same or is the front different than the back?
Denso=OEM. There is an upstream and downstream, refer to #18 &19 on the link below.
Is there anything else that could cause the 6 codes? Seems like a few are geared towards the right front wheel sensor. I will fix the bolt today and double check the timing. It was dead on originally..I even rotated the crank 4 times to double check before I started the engine.
It appears you have issues with the front right wheel sensor and/or pulsar (which is the gear-like thing on the back of the hub). See the attached pages from the Helm's to test them.
You have to turn engine 6 times (i guess check manual) to have one time match at dots.
so I finally got a chance to check the timing. I had a big scare because there are grooves on the pulleys near the lil site holes that didn't line up. I remembered that I lined up the lil notches at the top of the pulleys which I could barely see...those lined up perfect so I think timing is good unless I totally lined the wrong notches up. Does what I said make sense?
I fixed the 2 sheared bolts in the intake plate and drove for 20 minutes with no stall!!! I hope that was the issue. Still getting an engine light on and the brake lamp light keeps coming on. I'm hoping it's just the oxygen sensor. Any tips on changing the front o2 sensor without removing the strut brace? It's a pain to get to from the top.
Also, I think I found out why the abs light was on...the o ring on the front cv joint came off and grease was all over the speed sensor. I put an after market o ring back on... major pain!! It is already coming off...but the abs light didnt come on. Any one have a better idea of what type of o ring to use to seal the cv boot?
I fixed the 2 sheared bolts in the intake plate and drove for 20 minutes with no stall!!! I hope that was the issue.
Getting rid of that massive air leak sure makes a difference,
Originally Posted by jdsmit13
Still getting an engine light on and the brake lamp light keeps coming on. I'm hoping it's just the oxygen sensor. Any tips on changing the front o2 sensor without removing the strut brace? It's a pain to get to from the top.
Take the brake reserve cap off, make sure that little plunger apparatus moves freely, check the fluid. Hopefully that shuts the light off.
I removed/replaced both O2 sensors from under the car on jack stands. IIRC, the most difficult part was unplugging the upstream O2 electrical connector. Rented the O2 sensor tool from the local auto parts store.
Originally Posted by jdsmit13
Also, I think I found out why the abs light was on...the o ring on the front cv joint came off and grease was all over the speed sensor. I put an after market o ring back on... major pain!! It is already coming off...but the abs light didnt come on. Any one have a better idea of what type of o ring to use to seal the cv boot?
^^^ Google is yours friend farther. It look as you mess with some electricity, but it is wild guess. Maybe some cord disconected or so. If timing would be completely of you would destroy engine (interference engine). So your timing should be fine than.
Getting rid of that massive air leak sure makes a difference,
Take the brake reserve cap off, make sure that little plunger apparatus moves freely, check the fluid. Hopefully that shuts the light off.
I removed/replaced both O2 sensors from under the car on jack stands. IIRC, the most difficult part was unplugging the upstream O2 electrical connector. Rented the O2 sensor tool from the local auto parts store.
ahhh...should've known there was a tool!! I can barely type because that o ring sliced my fingers like but they. The tool looks worth every bit of $20! Is that tool for the universal o ring that the parts store sells, or the type that was already on the cv boot? Just wanna make sure I buy the correct o ring with the tool.
I will check the brake cap as suggested.
I bought the front o2 sensor from the parts store for $80...234-4727. I found the same part # and brand on Amazon for $40! And also the same part # and brand for $80. Really pis.es me off and confuses me! Also found a set of 2 for $90. Is there something I'm missing? They both appear new. I need to get the front and back sensors by next weekend.
Sucks because right now my license is suspended and I have to ride my bike 12 miles one way to take it back for a refund....thank God for ebikes!!!
ahhh...should've known there was a tool!! I can barely type because that o ring sliced my fingers like but they. The tool looks worth every bit of $20! Is that tool for the universal o ring that the parts store sells, or the type that was already on the cv boot? Just wanna make sure I buy the correct o ring with the tool.
Good question. Refer to the attachment. I believe the tools on the ebay link works with both the 'double loop band' and the 'ear clamp band' type.
Not sure what you have on the outboard side.
Originally Posted by jdsmit13
I bought the front o2 sensor from the parts store for $80...234-4727. I found the same part # and brand on Amazon for $40! And also the same part # and brand for $80. Really pis.es me off and confuses me! Also found a set of 2 for $90. Is there something I'm missing? They both appear new. I need to get the front and back sensors by next weekend.
234-4727 is upstream o2 sensor. $37.89 before shipping on Rockauto.com
234-4621 is downstream o2 sensor. $21.89 before shipping on Rockauto.com
Good question. Refer to the attachment. I believe the tools on the ebay link works with both the 'double loop band' and the 'ear clamp band' type.
Not sure what you have on the outboard side.
234-4727 is upstream o2 sensor. $37.89 before shipping on Rockauto.com
234-4621 is downstream o2 sensor. $21.89 before shipping on Rockauto.com
anyone know torque rating for both o2 sensors? I'm trying to do this work now and left my damn book at home.
Thanks so much for the help guys! I changed both o2 sensors and the check engine light is off!!!
next I will check the brake cap as suggested.
The power steering is also squealing since I completed timing belt. I was reading another post that said I may have ruined the belt from over tightening it how can I confirm this to be the case? Im dreading having to dump more time/money into my car. Thanks for any advice
04-01-2018, 12:12 PM
Getting rid of that massive air leak sure makes a difference,
