Skirmich

Well guys..

My infamous 1300 rebuild with incredibly 117,000 miles on it has decided to drop to 2nd while doing 70mph on the highway (Not funny) there were no warnings, no shuddering, no nada before the incident and thats the most worrying thing... If I have done anything above that speed and by the way it dropped suddenly in to second? I would not be telling this story right now. But anyway moving on....
Its time to insert the god send AV6 that has been collecting dust in my garage for almost 3 years but I want to confirm what the DIY told me without the diagrams working as of now. If any guy that has done the AV6 Swap successfully could help me out here...

My list to do (If anyone could confirm this or add anything I am missing):

1st - Replace the main Harness from the AV6 and install the B7WA Harness in its place.

2nd - Replace the Range Switch from the AV6 and Its harness with the B7WA Range Switch w/Harness Combo.

3rd - I wont be replacing the Insert type Filter with the Spin off filter from the B7WA.. I like the simplicity of the AV6 filter and I don´t mind the minimal extra effort to replace it.

4th - If possible I would like to cancel the ATF warmer since here in San Diego there is no super cold winters or snow.. If anything we have terrible summers and a ATF Warmer sounds like a bad idea in general for South Cali.

5th - Re use the AV6 Torque Converter.


My questions are:

1.- How can I cancel the ATF Warmer? To do this I remove the unit completely or don´t connect the cooling lines to it and that´s it??

2.- The VSA bracket has its own spot to be installed? (Since the trans is installed I cannot do a side by side comparison).

3.- I am missing something here?



Well that´s about it... Since I don´t have the time to do this swap ASAP I have to use the Jeep for the time being.

Skirmich

No one?

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

HONDA & ACURA 5-SPEEDS: BAYA MAYA BDGA BGFA MGFA SPCA MPCA B7WA M7WA TRANSMISSION COOLER WARMER UNIVERSAL FIT EXTERNAL ADAPTER - The American Powertrain Warehouse

Skirmich

^ I´m wondering Dave.. What is that for?

Skirmich

Curious3GTL

I wish I could help, but I can't as I haven't done this myself. What do you mean by the 1300 rebuild?

Skirmich

The rebuild of the trans that died recently was done in México for 1300 US Dollars..
As the cheapest rebuild quote I had in SD was around 3K.

Still lasted 117K!

MBP 03

All the necessary TL brackets transfer over to the AV6 trans without any issues.

For a few extra bucks, before the AV6 trans goes in, it's a good idea to install new axle seals as well as a new input shaft seal and torque converter o-ring.

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Deletes the factory warmer and provides a place to connect a trans cooler to.

Cord

As a reminder don't forget to match the range switch with the one the vehicle in question was last placed in.

Skirmich

Thanks for the clarification.. And yes I already had the Rear Main Seal, Is the Torque Converter O-Ring Really Needed?


So those outputs are ATF In/Out?


Yes I read that I must mark the bolt positions so I can install it correctly in the first try.

MBP 03

I suppose that it all depends on how many miles are on the AV6 trans. I changed that o-ring and input shaft seal on my trans for peace of mind. Much like the rear main seal, the only way to get to those two things in the future if they should start leaking is to drop the transmission.

Skirmich

Then I suppose I have to source it... Just wondering do you still have the # for it by any chance?

ErickUa5

To delete the warmer you can use the parts from the Honda Oddysey 5at since the casings are the same, Cheaper too.

Skirmich

^ But I Already have the AV6.. I thought only deleting will do just covering the A/F inlet and outlet and that´s it? I have 2 external coolers enough for the trans and a couple of tons of load.

Also I cant find the Axle Seals for the AV6 everywhere (Im looking for OEM) are those the same than the B7WA? Because I cant find the Part Numbers everywhere.

MBP 03

Should be 91205-P0X-005.

Skirmich

THANK YOU!!

So I have these numbers:

J32A2 Main Rear Seal: 91212-P8A-A01
AV6 Input Shaft Main Seal: 91207-P7Z-003

AV6 Axle Seal: 91205-P0X-005 is that symmetrical because the 4 cyl show me 2 different axle seals for driver and pass.

MBP 03

You have an incorrect part number for the rear main seal. The one that you're showing is the front seal. The rear main seal is 91214-P8A-A01.

The torque converter o-ring is 91302-PGK-003.

Sorry.... just looked at my paperwork. The driver's side axle seal is 91205-P0X-005. I can't find the page with the passenger side, but I think that it's 91206-P0Z-005.

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Yes left side is out right side is in then goes to filter and returns to trans. I have the rear main seal complete plate w seal installed if you'd like to save some money. I can do 30 dollars shipped to you if you'd like the part. Brand new I can give pics as well. Mine was bone dry I said I won't touch what ain't broke.

Skirmich

I'll give Honda a Call to confirm it today. Thanks again.

Skirmich

I still need to drop the trans I'll get in touch with you if I ever end up needing it. Thanks for the offer. Did you buy the ATF Warmer delete yourself? It's quite expensive and I'm thinking if I will get it or not.

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

It's not he only way to use a trans cooler but it's by far the easiest to use and hard to mess up the flow this way.

Skirmich

Yes in fact I hacked the lines from the ATF filter into the housing for mine... I was actually going to use the same method for the AV6.

Skirmich

MBP 03 Confirmed by Honda of San Diego.

Engine seal: 91212-P8A-A01
TQ seal: 91302-PGK-003
Axle Pass seal: 91206-P0Z-005
Axle Driv seal: 91205-P0X-005

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Do you really want to heat up your fluid though?? Cause once your engine is hot it makes your trans fluid the temp of the engine coolant since the coolant flows into there. I used the bypass and capped the coolant lines off. Works great plus added an inline magnefine filter as well

MBP 03

That is the part number for the front seal. You need the rear main seal, which is #20 in the below diagram and part number 91214-P8A-A01.

Skirmich

I am using 2x outside 28000GVW ATF Coolers + 1 Inline Magnefine Filter using the line between the ATF Filter and the Case.. I was going to re-use that system and unplug the Stock ATF Warmer from the Coolant Lines..

Skirmich

Yes that was a Typo from my previous Post (I was Copying and Pasting).
The correct number is 912"14"-P8A-A01

01acls

If your car will drive off in D4, you might want to try swapping out the Shift Solenoid B or use the one from the av6. It's worth a try.

Skirmich

^^ This is the funny thing... I've been using the car for short trips only at low speed with no issues!! I can drive up to 35-40mph while being very gentle on the throttle and the car won't slip. If I get too much Bryan O'Conner on it the car will slap its face into second :/ (Overtaking and Sudden acceleration is completely out of question, It will slip hard)
Everything else works wonders like reverse and full D5 but only if I press on the gas very lightly.. And zero Check engine still.... I'm still waiting for the P0740...

thoiboi

oh no inevitable


GL OP!

Skirmich

^ Walking the Hard Path with ma TL... But she's been kind to me so I will be kind to her, The AV6 will give new life to her and with luck a lot of reliability and confidence to me..

This is a keeper I always said that, I will keep my TL for life.

01acls

Disregard the swapping out of Shift Solenoid B. Sorry I misunderstood your symptoms. I thought you had no 2nd gear.

Now it sounds more like...

1. Pressure Solenoid A/B. You might want to try swapping that out and cleaning the 3 screens on the 3 pipes, replace those 3 O-rings and gasket.

2. Maim Shaft Speed Sensor defective.

3. Counter Shaft Speed Sensor defective.

4. ATF Temperature Sensor defective.

Skirmich

What is weird is that there are no MIL codes

01acls

If the D5 is blinking there is a code. If thats the case get the Dealership to pull it.

Skirmich

Nothing. This isn't the first time my trans fails so I know what to expect...
But it hasn't done what my first failure did.. On my first failure the MIL went on immediately with a P0740 and the trans didn't even go to third gear at the 3rd day.

Chojun

Sorry I know this isn't entirely on-subject but I have a quick question for everyone. I'm waiting for my trans to eventually die and am growing skeptical of the AV6 because after all those trans are now 8-9 years old. I don't think I could find one with ~100K miles on it (or less).

I want to do the 6-speed swap for mine, do we still have a lot of knowledge around here on how to do that? I noticed the 6-speed swap stickied on this site has a lot of missing images.

Skirmich

There is a lot of work involved on the 6 Speedo... Also if you dont get the CL-S 6 speed dont even think about it.. You really want that LSD.