BoriTL

will the 99 accord thermostat fit the 99 TL thermostat. Honda has it for $33.42 and Acura has it for $43.63, moving soon so every penny counts.

part TL#19301-P8F-A11
part accord#19301-P8C-A11

acutee

No, not accord 99. 2000+ V6 will.

3.2TLc

The local Honda dealer parts-person normally is able to cross reference parts #'s.
If they don't have it, they can get it.....and will sometimes even price match !!!

BoriTL

Hilarious that's exactly what happen, went to Acura they didn't have it, a Honda dealer was up the road and had it in stock. $41, about to go install now as I believe I was having my baby boil over, so hopefully this Honda thermostat resolves it.

3.2TLc

Make sure that ya properly "burp" your baby's cooling system of any trapped air pockets.

BoriTL

So changed out yesterday, let it sit for like 10 mins without the cap on and everything was fine and dandy including the idle and the moment i test drive the idle issue comes back. Let sit over night, took cap off, started her up revved to 2k until fan came on, than put cap on untightened let fan turn on two more times while revving at 2k and than closed it up. That was this morning before going to work and got to work and put her in park and idle issue going up and down.

Parts Replaced:
all coolant hoses including heater hoses, except radiator as there still good.
radiator cap
reservoir hose from rad to tank
thermostat with honda one
removed small airbox radiator
all the temp sensors have been replaced
PCV replaced
IACV replaced a little over a year ago
new TB & spacer gaskets
water pump was done with timing less than 5k miles ago
intake was installed
all three motor mounts replaced
cleaned EGR port for 2nd time, 1st time was completely clogged
cleaned EGR valve

Replacing next and next actions:
IM gasket
EGR gasket
gasket for engine next to the EGR (noticed its leaking a little oil)
brake booster line (noticed it has a numb in it and line is hard)
PCV grommet

also where can i get the manual for my car??? need a PDF or link please

3.2TLc

Can ya remember when this idling problem first developed ?
Perhaps something with the intake is causing the issues. Gotta be driving ya crazy by now !!! No codes ???

BoriTL

Heck ya it is by now, makes my shifts noticeable and has a strong shaking at exactly 45mph. Plus a get a rpm jolt when coming to a complete stop.

Ordered
PCV Grommet
EGR Gasket
Bypass Gasket
Both Manifold Gaskets (plenum) i think there called
and hood supports (have been using a broomstick for the longest)
getting a hose from autoparts today to replace brake booster hose has a bulge in it and hard.

anything you can think of that i haven't replaced that could be causing the issue??

ErickUa5

Have you tried pinching the Intake Air Bypass hose while the Rpms are jumping ?

Starting to think, Remember the older accords had a similar valve that would close up when the coolant temps went up and after a few years the valve would stay open creating a vacuum leak causing the Rpms to jump. The fix was adjusting it back to the closed position and everything went back to normal.

The TL has an IAB under the intake manifold next to the egr port that has an adjustment as well.


Heres a thread on the service manual, https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/2g-factory-tl-shop-repair-manual-852101/#post14751594

BoriTL

Pinching did nothing, I'm still smelling coolant but not losing any. friend told me to let sit overnight and start her in the morning with cap off rev a little and if I see any bubbles than HG needs replacing but saw no bubbles.

3.2TLc

Have the cooling system pressure checked. Could be a pinhole leak somewhere.

Make sure that when ya burp the system to have the heater and blower on high, then bring the motor up to operating temp and let it boil out until it's free of any air pocket bubbles. Run the rpms up and both cooling fans should activate. Replace rad cap and allow system to cool. When cool, top off rad level and reservoir. Monitor level the next few days later.

BoriTL

Where do you get the pressure checked at??
did procedure exactly like you said for bleeding and still had that coolant smell and it seems to be stronger near the radiator area. Cap was changed sometime last year.

ErickUa5

Dont replace the brake booster hose with just a regular hose, theres a one way valve in it.
If the vacuum leak is not there suggest looking elsewhere for the problem.

When you installed the new IACV did you install it with a new rubber gasket or if reused did you make sure it was installed correctly ?

BoriTL

Dam thought i could get away with any regular line for the brake booster. Bulge i noticed in it might be that valve your talking about about halfway through the line, so guess line is good.

BoriTL

Messed with the idle screw in the picture, funny how i've messed with the TB so many times didnt even notice it there, but screw did nothing.

idle issue has to be something like a valve staying closed or not working properly, cause it almost seems like an almost there effect and than after the bounce back the idle ups and downs. any specific valve, solenoid, hose, etc that would effect the idle that i haven't looked at yet??

plus i'm still smelling coolant as if i have a leak but all coolant hoses were replaced, radiator cap, reservoir rad to tank hose, thermostat. If i put my hose to it, smell is strong around the actual radiator. If radiator is original radiator could this be issue?

BoriTL

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/9-prob...e-mount-4.html

post #48 & #49