SRS light problem solved!
10-02-2017, 08:37 PM
#1
4th Gear
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Location: New york
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SRS light problem solved!
Hello all,
Id like to share my findings with this SRS light! The code I got was 3 2 - increased resistance at the tensioner. What I figured out that it was the yellow connector. I just a shot, guessing that the resistance is probably at the connector. it cant be at any other place within the wiring harness unless the wire is cut or burnt. I cut out the yellow connector going to the tensionser (where the belt coils) and ran straight wire - it worked! Reset the SRS light and it stayed off!
Id like to share my findings with this SRS light! The code I got was 3 2 - increased resistance at the tensioner. What I figured out that it was the yellow connector. I just a shot, guessing that the resistance is probably at the connector. it cant be at any other place within the wiring harness unless the wire is cut or burnt. I cut out the yellow connector going to the tensionser (where the belt coils) and ran straight wire - it worked! Reset the SRS light and it stayed off!
10-20-2017, 02:59 PM
#5
It sounds like it's doing what it is supposed to do. The side airbag is supposed to turn off if the sensor determines that the passenger's head is near the area of the airbag. If the sensor/module is defective you'll get an SRS indicator light on the dash.
10-24-2017, 08:29 AM
#6
Hey while we're on the topic of airbags, I took out my steering wheel bag recently to get at the clockspring, and after putting it back in I get that SRS light. I've checked my connections and they all look fine - does this mean I managed to damage my airbag? I'm still holding out for the chance that I didn't totally fubar it.
10-24-2017, 09:09 AM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Hey while we're on the topic of airbags, I took out my steering wheel bag recently to get at the clockspring, and after putting it back in I get that SRS light. I've checked my connections and they all look fine - does this mean I managed to damage my airbag? I'm still holding out for the chance that I didn't totally fubar it.
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10-24-2017, 10:35 AM
#8
Cruise control has never worked on my car, stereo buttons are working, but I haven't had a chance to toot the horn lately - I'll ask my girlfriend to check it today as she's driving around.
Do you think I may have pulled one of the wires from the "plug" on the front of the clockspring by accident? I remember I was getting tired when I was messing with it last so it may have been a sub-par re-assembly.
10-25-2017, 05:35 AM
#9
Three Wheelin'
Correct. continuity between input and output.
The assumption here is that the steering wheel airbag is causing the SRS light considering everything was fine before fiddling with steering wheel.
The SRS system looks for a certain resistance value from each airbag and when that value is missing it will trigger the light(among other things). You've
got a wire that isn't connected properly somehow. Either through a connector, clockspring or even a cut wire that happened when you were putting it all together.
Out of curiosity, why did you take it apart to begin with?
The assumption here is that the steering wheel airbag is causing the SRS light considering everything was fine before fiddling with steering wheel.
The SRS system looks for a certain resistance value from each airbag and when that value is missing it will trigger the light(among other things). You've
got a wire that isn't connected properly somehow. Either through a connector, clockspring or even a cut wire that happened when you were putting it all together.
Out of curiosity, why did you take it apart to begin with?
10-25-2017, 07:59 AM
#10
Great, I'll run out to the car after work and poke around with my multimeter, see how the continuity is doing. I really hope it's something simple like a connection issue and not something with the airbag itself - I saw the prices for replacements and I really do not want to pay that! haha
And yeah, I'm pretty set on that assumption myself. I first pulled the wheel after finishing up the transmission drain/fill, and the SRS light wasn't on when I was driving the car through all the gears.
As for why I took the steering wheel apart in the first place, I've been working on running audio controls to the steering wheel. I don't use cruise control so I re-purposed that set of buttons to control a bluetooth chip that I've got wired into my tape deck. This way I can have audio volume control on the left, and FF/PP/RR controls on the right. So to see how I could wire the buttons into the wheel without having a tangled mess of wires hanging from my steering column, I opened up the wheel to check out what I could do with the clockspring. My plan is to re-purpose the wires that originally went to the cruise control buttons to have my custom buttons plugged into the clockspring mechanism. After first seeing the clockspring however I put it all back together and picked up a spare from the junkyard to work on.
And yeah, I'm pretty set on that assumption myself. I first pulled the wheel after finishing up the transmission drain/fill, and the SRS light wasn't on when I was driving the car through all the gears.
As for why I took the steering wheel apart in the first place, I've been working on running audio controls to the steering wheel. I don't use cruise control so I re-purposed that set of buttons to control a bluetooth chip that I've got wired into my tape deck. This way I can have audio volume control on the left, and FF/PP/RR controls on the right. So to see how I could wire the buttons into the wheel without having a tangled mess of wires hanging from my steering column, I opened up the wheel to check out what I could do with the clockspring. My plan is to re-purpose the wires that originally went to the cruise control buttons to have my custom buttons plugged into the clockspring mechanism. After first seeing the clockspring however I put it all back together and picked up a spare from the junkyard to work on.