Srb

Alright so I'm in the middle of doing a swap using a 2004 TL 6mt. I'm keeping my engine but changing the transmission. Everything's being going alright for the most part. I'm doing the work myself in my garage and have gotten stuck taking out the torque converter. From my understanding it was supposed to come out within the transmission housing, but in my case it didn't.....I took off the transmission no problem other than that. So the TC is still on the engine and I've tried pulling it off with no luck. I didn't want to get too aggressive with it because I don't want to damage any splines or some shit. Anyone have any advice on how I should go about getting it off? The biggest thing I've done before this swap was a 105k service and valve adjustment so I'm a little cautious at some steps, like this one. Here's a picture of it in case I haven't explained it clearly.




And one of the car...


I planned to post more along the way but I've gotten unexpectedly busy as soon as I started taking things apart. I'll add some more detailed things that I couldn't find on the boards in case it might make it easier for future DIYers that want to go the same route. For now I need to finish it first because I don't have much time to work on it like I initially planned. Hopefully someone can give me advice on the stuck TC. I would appreciate it.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

Glad you finally got your thread started up bro! I'd help if I could but idk how to fuck with the TC. Hope your progress keeps steady!

mr2fast2thao

There should be 8 10mm bolt hold the flywheel against the torque converter. You need to unbolt those off before you can take out the TC.

There should be a panel under the tranny next to the motor open it and you should get to the bolts.

Srb

Thanks.

Srb

Ok I got another question regarding installing the new clutch. The service manual says to use a special tool called a "pressure plate compressor" with an adapter and I was waiting to go to honda to see if i can ask a tech friend to lend me one for an hour. In case that doesn't work, am I ok to tighten the pressure plate bolts without it in a star pattern, slowly? I know it's not the best way but would it work without causing damage?

I found this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/oem-clutch-replacement-tool-799072/ which discusses the exact question I'm asking but the OP ended up having a pre-loaded self-adjusting pressure plate and I haven't figured out if the one I have is the same way. My guess is it's not. I got the clutch kit from carolinaclutch and it's made by luk.

Srb

I lucked out and was able to use the tool from honda. On to the next step.

Srb

Car's running. Drove around a little bit and it feels good. Still need richies harness though. No vtec really makes a big difference. I'll post some pictures and list the parts I used, and a few little tweaks I dealt with.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

Good shit man! Once u get that harness youll be beastin on the streets

Tony_vu

Let me know asap, looking to do a 6 speed swap on my 03

kidduce

iTrader: (1)

Wow that wax fast. So the 3gen tranny fits our cars?

emaka9

iTrader: (3)

for the 04 tl tranny swap.

ChangBanger

Match made in heaven.


Ohhhhh soooo sexyyyyyyyy

Tony_vu

So sick once Again let me know what parts we need to complete the 6 speed swap, and how many hours are required to doing such a swap, and were we can find the parts, were I'm from nit many 6speeed tis around

Srb

Alright I'm getting back to work on it. I just have to install richies harness, re align the front wheels and fix the rubbing issue with the back wheels. 3g wheels are a little too wide to fit without modifying anything, with a mild drop at least. The harness looks pretty straight forward to wire up. Sorry for taking long to post anything. I'll try this weekend to list parts and explain what to expect when doing the swap.

kidduce

iTrader: (1)

Ehh, i have 3g wheels and am dropped on coils. No rubbing issues.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

I've got 3g wheels (not on yet lol), but i'm planning on running 215/50/17 and I'm dropped on H&R Sports and don't anticipate any rubbing

Srb

I got them cuz i needed two new tires and it was a good deal with 60-70% tread left. I don't want to switch out the tires yet lol. Theyre 235/45. Im also dropped on h&r sports.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

ah, 235 is why

Srb

Oh well, the car's getting a trim. Tires are beefy and I can't part with them already. You have richie's harness don't you? Where'd you put the load module and the other box lol? I'm wasting time deliberating where to put them.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Grabbed these about a year ago for $160 for the set. Just need to get around refinishing, (I'm thinking hyper-black) and then buy some rubber for them.


I have it, it's not installed, I removed it thinking that was what was causing my rev problem with the AEM EMS, but it wasn't. I didn't install the harness, local shop did, but they mounted all the boxes somewhere under the glovebox area.

Srb

It's pretty fast now haha. I scared myself when I got on it in first

Tony_vu

parts list ??? wooot woot!!!

kidduce

iTrader: (1)

So is it complete?

Srb

Yea it's complete. It took me all weekend to get the wheels aligned and not rubbing, plus tidying everything up. It's running great and the only thing left to get is a shift boot and a different clutch pedal - I'm using one from a 3g tl and the pedal sits higher than normal, but works fine though. I'm still waiting to get internet installed at my apartment so I'm struggling to get online during the week. Parts list should be coming soon, sorry for the delay.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

yeah, I'm on 03 CL clutch pedal, it's perfect

Srb

04 TL 6 speed manual transmission, mine included slave cylinder, clutch pipe 46970-S3M-A01, and clutch hose 46961-S3M-A02 (requires trans mounting beam in order to mount to 2g cl/tl)

03 CLs-6 Trans mounting beam, + bolts 50809-S3M-A00, (3) 95701-10035-08

03 CLs-6 Trans mount 1 FR + bolt 50805-S3M-A03, 95701-10085-08

03 CLs-6 Trans mount 2 RR + bolt (same bolt) + washer/weight 50806-S3M-A03, 95701-10085-08, 50803-S3M-A00

03 CLs-6 Rear engine mounting bracket + bolt + mounting bolts 50827-S3M-A00, 90166-S3M-A00, (4) 90167-SL0-010

03 CL-s Flywheel (luk aftermarket oem replacement) 22100-PGE-026

03 CLs-6 Flywheel bolts (12-point 17mm and 12-point 10mm sockets needed for these bolts) (8) 90011-PGE-000, (6) 90034-PRC-000

03 CLs-6 Clutch Assembly (04 TL or ACCORD) 22105-PGE-315

03 CLs-6 Starter (I'm using an ACCORD 6MT STARTER, 6th gen. 04TL6mt or cls6 starter work as well)

03 CLs-6 Shifter + bolts + floating collars + floating rubbers (not condoms) 54100-S3M-A01, (4) 93404-08035-08, (4) 54119-S30-003, (4) 54117-S6M-003

03 CLs-6 Shifter Cables + bolts + plate + miscellaneous (see "shift lever-2" diagram at acuraoemparts.com, under 2003 CL Sport KA6MT) 54310-S3M-A01, 95701-08035-08, (2) 95701-08055-08, 54357-SF1-003, (2) 94201-20350 (2) 94201-20350, 54116-SV4-000, 54118-SC2-000, 90555-SF1-000, 90556-SF1-000, 90557-SF1-010, 90558-SF1-000

03 CLs-6 Hydraulic Clutch line 46960-S3M-A01

03 CLs-6 Parking brake 47105-S3M-A04ZA
Parking brake spring 47537-671-670
Parking brake nut 47522-594-000
Parking brake equalizer pin 47365-538-000
Parking brake equalizer 47360-SB2-000

03 CLs-6 Cup Holder (be prepared to cut away a lot of the original cupholder) 77230-S3M-A01ZA

03 CLs-6 Brake Pedal (6th gen Accord brake pedal) 46600-S3M-A51

04 TL Clutch Pedal, this pedal lever sits a little high in our cars (6th gen Accord or CLs6 clutch pedal work best)

04 TL 6mt Clutch Master Cylinder Assembly (mine included: clutch hose 46971-S3M-A01 and reservoir 46971-S3M-A01) Cylinder assembly from 6th gen accord, CLs6, and probably many others can also work fine.

RV6 module (Richie's harness)

Thats it for the main parts.

Here's a few helpful hints and recommendations that might help. Most of them are easy to figure out once youre at the steps.

For the parking brake, there are 3 mounting holes. All 3 of the mounting hole stamps can be seen on the car. They need to be drilled through. The 2 toward the rear are just holes and I used a bolt and nut (nut from the underside of the car) to secure the brake lever. The 3rd hole closer to the shifter has a threaded nut welded from the underside so a nut wont be needed for this one, but be careful when drilling the 3rd hole because if its not centered with the nut you may damage the existing thread and need to retap it if possible.

I moved the existing parking brake lines slightly over to the right to fit better with the brake lever. Stamped holes already exist so its easy to see how they sit slightly over to the right. 2 bolts and nuts were used to secure the lines since the holes didnt have threaded nuts attached to them.

I could not remove the engine and transmission from the top without removing the oil filter, spool valve assembly (the thing the oil filter screws on to), and crank pulley. From the pictures I've seen from freeatlast and 6mtua5 they did not remove these parts when hoisting the engine out. I think it's because their cars are 99's and have a smaller transmission housing. The engine and transmission on my 2000 were simply too wide to pull out without taking off those parts.

Note that if you use a 6mt from a 3g tl you will need to also buy the transmission mount beam from an 03 cls6 - it's in the parts list, its not too expensive at 60 bucks.

Because the trans is from a 3g tl, the shift lever on the transmission has a pin (for the shifter cable to attach to) that is located in the wrong spot for our cars. I've heard of people cutting and welding the pin over to the correct spot. I had a friend machine a replica pin with a thread on the bottom of it and I used a fine locking nut to secure it in place. There isn't enough room from underneath the lever to use a regular sized nut. If you know any machine shops or have friends that can do it it is a good alternative to having the pin cut and welded. Be prepared for this step as there won't be a way for you to connect your shifter cables without having the pin in the correct spot.

If you did your research, you should be aware of the power steering lines that need to be looped. The 2 lines are different sizes and one of them is a high pressure line. I reused the 2 original rubber hoses that attached to the lines and I connected them to each other with an adapter that I had a friend machine.

One thing that requires some heads up. The main coolant rail that runs through the center of the engine has a smaller rail that extends out from it which runs to the auto transmission's torque converter solenoid switch. The switch then had another, smaller line running to the throttle body. Since there wont be a torque converter switch needed, I simply connected these two coolant lines together, bypassing the non existent switch. So there is now a line going from the throttle body to the coolant rail in the engine. The only problem is the lines are different sizes. I had another, different sized though, adapter machined to connect the two lines together. The adapter itself connects the two rubber hoses that connect to the lines. Similar to the power steering loop.

Richie's harness was pretty easy to install. I'll post pictures of what it looks like and what the install requires. Nothing complicated but I didn't see much before in other threads so I didnt know what to expect as far as what needs to be accessed for the install.

If you do this on your own, invest in an air compressor and impact wrench. Or borrow from a friend. Good tools make all the difference. It was very nice to have a friend that could machine the pin and two adapters for me. I think other people have had the coolant lines welded closed or plugged closed. I'm not too sure but since I was able to have the small custom parts made for free I used it to my advantage. If you have a friend or know of a machine shop that could do it for you then I'll try to post or send you the fab drawings they would need to make the parts. It would save you time from measuring the line sizes and drawing it up yourself.

I also bought new engine mounts from xlr8. They are the 62a (street) mounts for the 03cls6. You should definitely buy new mounts when doing this swap. My engine shook and rocked like no other before the swap and with these mounts the engine does not move at all! From the inside, the car vibrates a little more at idle but its not terrible. I like the mounts a lot. The only problem I had was installing the side mount. I think they are different for the cls6 (possibly for the type s) than the tl-p. I could be wrong. But my side mount did not line up well with the holes in the engine bay and it was not high enough to line up with the side engine mount bracket on the engine. I bored out the holes slightly on the mount so they lined up better and I put a few washers underneath the mount to raise it up and it lined up with the engine. The 6 speed is sick. Pictures still to come.

Srb

Forgot the main oil seal in the parts list. Good to change and might as well do it. Takes one minute to install since youll have the trans off already. 91214-P8A-A01

kidduce

iTrader: (1)

Nice that you included some suggestions. There is really starting to be plenty of information for people wanting to do this.

Thanks man.

Srb

Anyone know where to get that cl-s shift boot for less than $250? Or would anyone know if the 3g tl shift boot can fit the 2g?

assclown

iTrader: (1)

I don't see why the 3g wouldn't work. I'd either get one used or talk to Redline Goods and see if they can hook you up.

Do you know much about engine internals? Check my thread if you do

Srb

I'll shoot them a message. I see you pulled off the heads. Sorry I wish I could have some input but I don't have any experience with that. At least your valves will be really clean when you're done messing with it. Hope you get that figured out soon man.

fsttyms1

Why did you cut a lot away from the CLs6 cupholder?

Srb

My bad. Good catch. I meant the tl's front console not cupholder. The cls6 cupholder was not cut at all. I was just surprised as to how much of the console needed to be cut away.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

yeah, I cut away a lot on mine.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

Same here. Almost all of it haha

06accord6sp

I'm doing the swap right now to my 02 tl type s and I was wondering why you had to cut the center console. thanks

Srb

It needs to be cut in order to make room so you can fit the cls-6 cupholder in it.
check on fsttyms1 6 speed thread he has a picture of it after making room for the new cupholder.

Oh and if anyone is looking for the shift boot I found a website that sells it for a decent price. I couldn't find it anywhere else for this price. Junkyards don't seem to keep them very often.
I got it from dealerdirectparts.com brand new around $100 as opposed to $260 from the dealer websites.

06accord6sp

Thanks for all the help. When I'm done I will post pictures

06accord6sp

Hey I'm in the middle of the swap and I was just wondering what axels did u use? I'm using a 04 accord transmission

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Your stock axles should work.


Srb did you figure out how to get cruise going?