Seafoam?
10-12-2012, 10:57 PM
#41
NEVER run the TL without the gas cap
will trigger a false smog CEL code that can take several days to clear itself
just pour in seafoam anytime,,cars normal motion in driving will mix it together
If you want to be AR about it, add before adding fuel for best absolute mixing!!
my comments on spark plugs were for general reference, not meant at a specific ziner at this time
future members will come here,, and having as much info in a thread/place makes it easier to find and fix a problem...
will trigger a false smog CEL code that can take several days to clear itself
just pour in seafoam anytime,,cars normal motion in driving will mix it together
If you want to be AR about it, add before adding fuel for best absolute mixing!!
my comments on spark plugs were for general reference, not meant at a specific ziner at this time
future members will come here,, and having as much info in a thread/place makes it easier to find and fix a problem...
10-12-2012, 11:02 PM
#42
note= while vac port is fastest method for intake valve and pistons
the fuel system method gets all the lines, rails, splitters/spider and fuel injectors,,the vac doesnt get any of them!
that makes a huge difference in how the car performs
Clean valves and pistons combust better- so the fuel delivery and atomization-combustion should be at peak efficiency too
they need each other!
the fuel system method gets all the lines, rails, splitters/spider and fuel injectors,,the vac doesnt get any of them!
that makes a huge difference in how the car performs
Clean valves and pistons combust better- so the fuel delivery and atomization-combustion should be at peak efficiency too
they need each other!
10-13-2012, 12:27 AM
#43
^^^
Sorry bud, please explain how it's safe to restart immediately after killing the engine by having a heavy concentration during a SeaFoam treatment? Basic logic will tell you that a large amount of fluid being poured into the engine causing it to die would mean that a majority of that liquid STILL exists in the combustion chamber and if that cylinder is on a compression stroke before vaporizing the chemical...guess what's gonna happen.
Sorry bud, please explain how it's safe to restart immediately after killing the engine by having a heavy concentration during a SeaFoam treatment? Basic logic will tell you that a large amount of fluid being poured into the engine causing it to die would mean that a majority of that liquid STILL exists in the combustion chamber and if that cylinder is on a compression stroke before vaporizing the chemical...guess what's gonna happen.
10-13-2012, 07:45 AM
#44
Instructor
Thread Starter
^^^
Sorry bud, please explain how it's safe to restart immediately after killing the engine by having a heavy concentration during a SeaFoam treatment? Basic logic will tell you that a large amount of fluid being poured into the engine causing it to die would mean that a majority of that liquid STILL exists in the combustion chamber and if that cylinder is on a compression stroke before vaporizing the chemical...guess what's gonna happen.
Sorry bud, please explain how it's safe to restart immediately after killing the engine by having a heavy concentration during a SeaFoam treatment? Basic logic will tell you that a large amount of fluid being poured into the engine causing it to die would mean that a majority of that liquid STILL exists in the combustion chamber and if that cylinder is on a compression stroke before vaporizing the chemical...guess what's gonna happen.
10-13-2012, 08:22 AM
#45
Then would the engine die right there or would it take a while for the engine to die? I'm sure all the liquid is out of the comb. chamber now, but it's not like I put in the whole can & then caused the engine to die & immediately restart it. I barely put in a quarter of the can. I think I should be okay.
As for you already doing any engine damage, have you noticed any changes in engine characteristics? You mentioned something about it having an extended crank but is this a new symptom since you've SeaFoamed?
10-13-2012, 09:01 AM
#46
Instructor
Thread Starter
It was already taking a little longer to crank before seafoaming, at least I think it was. I haven't noticed any difference in engine characteristics, except better MPG.
10-13-2012, 06:01 PM
#47
I would recommend running an entire can through at once though. Again, let the engine sit 10-15 min after use. The will increase its effectiveness in loosening up carbon deposits drastically. After sitting, drive aggressively as procedure states.
10-13-2012, 11:12 PM
#48
If your method was developed with the guys from seafoam, I'm sure it's better but why is mine not good for the car?
do NOT follow mhacks method--maybe of you are storing the car for 6 months go ahead and fog it like that,
,otherwise please please for your own good and the cars,,stay with tested ziner method, diys reviewed by a panel,,info fine tuned by phone with seafoams head tech guy
sure remove the entire snorkel so you can access the TB air plate
and you can spray seafoam/deep creep thru the big opening of the air plate for vac method..that works excellent there,,just less vac than the port just past it
I have been known to use both master port and tb throat on different cars- wherever I can get, shoot some foam!
as seafoam hits the pistons it loosens- liquifies is seafoams word- carbon buildup
If you hold rpm at 2000 halfway thru the procedure, it will generate more heat and exhaust pressure, blasting the loosened stuff off the pistons
There are utube vids of the actual cleaning real time- its cool,,happens in seconds
No need for a full can thru intake vac,,thats wasteful - once its done the job- its done
use remainder in spray form as hinge lube, throttle spring lube and 1000 other uses
gas tank, this is direct from seafoams tech guy: minimum 3/4 ounce per gal in gas or no reasonable effect
maintenance dose midyear after full cleaning done before = 1 oz per gal = 1 can just under full tank (we hold 17.3) can is 16oz
CLEANING DOSE -what we need = 2 ounces per gal of fuel or 1 can to just under half tank
more than that does not speed or improve cleaning process
get the most value for your dollar
more fuel (not 1/4 tank) gives more time and heat to help clean everything in the fuel lines, o2 sensor, cat,,intake parts yadayada
confirm any of this at www.seafoam sales.com official website of seafoam
tech section has different methods shown
,otherwise please please for your own good and the cars,,stay with tested ziner method, diys reviewed by a panel,,info fine tuned by phone with seafoams head tech guy
sure remove the entire snorkel so you can access the TB air plate
and you can spray seafoam/deep creep thru the big opening of the air plate for vac method..that works excellent there,,just less vac than the port just past it
I have been known to use both master port and tb throat on different cars- wherever I can get, shoot some foam!
as seafoam hits the pistons it loosens- liquifies is seafoams word- carbon buildup
If you hold rpm at 2000 halfway thru the procedure, it will generate more heat and exhaust pressure, blasting the loosened stuff off the pistons
There are utube vids of the actual cleaning real time- its cool,,happens in seconds
No need for a full can thru intake vac,,thats wasteful - once its done the job- its done
use remainder in spray form as hinge lube, throttle spring lube and 1000 other uses
gas tank, this is direct from seafoams tech guy: minimum 3/4 ounce per gal in gas or no reasonable effect
maintenance dose midyear after full cleaning done before = 1 oz per gal = 1 can just under full tank (we hold 17.3) can is 16oz
CLEANING DOSE -what we need = 2 ounces per gal of fuel or 1 can to just under half tank
more than that does not speed or improve cleaning process
get the most value for your dollar
more fuel (not 1/4 tank) gives more time and heat to help clean everything in the fuel lines, o2 sensor, cat,,intake parts yadayada
confirm any of this at www.seafoam sales.com official website of seafoam
tech section has different methods shown
10-13-2012, 11:51 PM
#49
I guess I should rephrase my response. After rereading it, it sounded a little confrontational and that wasn't my intent. The reason that I'm asking for clarification is that this is how I was shown to do it by a mechanic about twenty years ago. Evidently, by your post it's wasteful. However, I've done this to every car that I've owned since that initial instruction. If it's more than just wasteful, but harmful. I am naturally curious why the "fogging" creates an environment that might be good for long term storage, but not operation.
10-14-2012, 12:53 AM
#50
the fogging method is for long term storage= several months
it leaves a protective coating of oils behind as engine stalls
MAY require new spark plugs after storage using this method!
it leaves a protective coating of oils behind as engine stalls
MAY require new spark plugs after storage using this method!
10-29-2012, 10:16 AM
#51
Safety Car
Put a can of seafoam in the gas tank no smoke nothing. After a half can in the vacuum line my neighborhood got smoked out. haha. Crankcase is next before next oil change.
Always used seafoam in my Jeep G.C.L. and lasted 245,000.
Always used seafoam in my Jeep G.C.L. and lasted 245,000.
10-29-2012, 11:34 PM
#52
you wont get smoke from seafoam in gas tank
its only when you do mass quantity thru the vac port or TB throat- direct to intake
When it hits the cat, the oils in seafoam react to that heat = smoke
its only when you do mass quantity thru the vac port or TB throat- direct to intake
When it hits the cat, the oils in seafoam react to that heat = smoke
03-14-2013, 08:11 PM
#53
Instructor
Thread Starter
Is it too early to Seafoam again. I was going to do the vac port method this time, since I know exactly how to do it & not screw it up like last time. It's been about 6 moths since I poured it into my gas tank. The raseon I'm asking is because I've just dropped to 16MPG, when I was getting 20MPG & none of my driving habits have changed. I still put premium (93) in. I have gone to different gas stations lately since Shell is a little pricey. Is it too early to Seafoam again?
03-14-2013, 08:47 PM
#54
did you do it twice as a noob? you are supposed to a week to a month later
so now is good if desired, and a midyear can in half-to full tank is a good plan
Now,, to get injectors and parts really good- 1 can in half tank plus vac 1/2 can
sipsipsip,,or use deep creep spray
Lowered mpg, remove air filter tube to TB = clean TB air plate on both sides and edges
may be black!! want it silver
replace PCV based on age $8
may be weak O2 sensor, those kill mpg hard and fast!
how old are the spark plugs, more than 70kmiles, correct ngk 8$ each plugs?
vac method ck www.seafoamsales.com tech section , look at the 2000rpm portion of the induction--want to make smoke?! and BLAST crud off pistons that way
dont forget the 15 minute freeway warm up drive before vac method
HEAT is seafoams friend, dont let engine cool more than 15 min after vac-
start- let idle at 1000,,then revs easily to 2000, now time to do drive
smoke is relative to exhaust heat/cat heat reacting to oils in seafoam,,its made of oils!
so now is good if desired, and a midyear can in half-to full tank is a good plan
Now,, to get injectors and parts really good- 1 can in half tank plus vac 1/2 can
sipsipsip,,or use deep creep spray
Lowered mpg, remove air filter tube to TB = clean TB air plate on both sides and edges
may be black!! want it silver
replace PCV based on age $8
may be weak O2 sensor, those kill mpg hard and fast!
how old are the spark plugs, more than 70kmiles, correct ngk 8$ each plugs?
vac method ck www.seafoamsales.com tech section , look at the 2000rpm portion of the induction--want to make smoke?! and BLAST crud off pistons that way
dont forget the 15 minute freeway warm up drive before vac method
HEAT is seafoams friend, dont let engine cool more than 15 min after vac-
start- let idle at 1000,,then revs easily to 2000, now time to do drive
smoke is relative to exhaust heat/cat heat reacting to oils in seafoam,,its made of oils!
03-14-2013, 08:52 PM
#55
done the valve adjust yet? called for at 105kmiles but needed by 150,,
cleaned the egr system in intake manifold?
gas supplier- tier 1 quality pays for itself over off brand
ethanol is killing us
makers are doing an early switch to summer formula,, that sucks,,
my 01 prefers chevron/texaco (now merged), runs funny on shell and gets by on union76
all 91 octane
cleaned the egr system in intake manifold?
gas supplier- tier 1 quality pays for itself over off brand
ethanol is killing us
makers are doing an early switch to summer formula,, that sucks,,
my 01 prefers chevron/texaco (now merged), runs funny on shell and gets by on union76
all 91 octane
03-14-2013, 08:55 PM
#56
what rpm is most shifting done at? 2500? more?
how is the trans fluid? shifts good?
Im thinking of things with friction
odd things to ck- sticking brake caliper- often rear- brakes partially on will kill mpg
how is the trans fluid? shifts good?
Im thinking of things with friction
odd things to ck- sticking brake caliper- often rear- brakes partially on will kill mpg
03-14-2013, 09:09 PM
#57
Instructor
Thread Starter
did you do it twice as a noob? you are supposed to a week to a month later
so now is good if desired, and a midyear can in half-to full tank is a good plan
Now,, to get injectors and parts really good- 1 can in half tank plus vac 1/2 can
sipsipsip,,or use deep creep spray
Lowered mpg, remove air filter tube to TB = clean TB air plate on both sides and edges
may be black!! want it silver
replace PCV based on age $8
may be weak O2 sensor, those kill mpg hard and fast!
how old are the spark plugs, more than 70kmiles, correct ngk 8$ each plugs?
vac method ck www.seafoamsales.com tech section , look at the 2000rpm portion of the induction--want to make smoke?! and BLAST crud off pistons that way
dont forget the 15 minute freeway warm up drive before vac method
HEAT is seafoams friend, dont let engine cool more than 15 min after vac-
start- let idle at 1000,,then revs easily to 2000, now time to do drive
smoke is relative to exhaust heat/cat heat reacting to oils in seafoam,,its made of oils!
so now is good if desired, and a midyear can in half-to full tank is a good plan
Now,, to get injectors and parts really good- 1 can in half tank plus vac 1/2 can
sipsipsip,,or use deep creep spray
Lowered mpg, remove air filter tube to TB = clean TB air plate on both sides and edges
may be black!! want it silver
replace PCV based on age $8
may be weak O2 sensor, those kill mpg hard and fast!
how old are the spark plugs, more than 70kmiles, correct ngk 8$ each plugs?
vac method ck www.seafoamsales.com tech section , look at the 2000rpm portion of the induction--want to make smoke?! and BLAST crud off pistons that way
dont forget the 15 minute freeway warm up drive before vac method
HEAT is seafoams friend, dont let engine cool more than 15 min after vac-
start- let idle at 1000,,then revs easily to 2000, now time to do drive
smoke is relative to exhaust heat/cat heat reacting to oils in seafoam,,its made of oils!
done the valve adjust yet? called for at 105kmiles but needed by 150,,
cleaned the egr system in intake manifold?
gas supplier- tier 1 quality pays for itself over off brand
ethanol is killing us
makers are doing an early switch to summer formula,, that sucks,,
my 01 prefers chevron/texaco (now merged), runs funny on shell and gets by on union76
all 91 octane
cleaned the egr system in intake manifold?
gas supplier- tier 1 quality pays for itself over off brand
ethanol is killing us
makers are doing an early switch to summer formula,, that sucks,,
my 01 prefers chevron/texaco (now merged), runs funny on shell and gets by on union76
all 91 octane
I just need to try & make time to play around w/ my TL. I'm doing a tanny drain & fill, as well as an oil change tomorrow. (I'm calling in sick 
)
03-15-2013, 08:30 AM
#58
Hey man, 50 hrs. a week is nothing. Last time I checked there was 168 hrs. in a week. Ya just need to do better time management or sleep less with the girl friend. Don't be calling off and losing money for what only takes 1 hour to do !
That money could be put to good use modding the TL or taking the girlfriend out for dinner.
That money could be put to good use modding the TL or taking the girlfriend out for dinner.
The following users liked this post:
xakura21 (03-15-2013)
03-15-2013, 09:08 PM
#59
Instructor
Thread Starter
Oh, I forgot to mention I just replaced my spark plugs last month. I just need to find a place to do stuff to my TL. Ive gotten numerous complaints for modding my past cars in front of my apartment. Ive gotten threats of neighbors calling the cops for me fixing my car in front of my apartment. If I had a garage, all my problems would be solved because then I could do stuff during the night instead of waiting until it was daytime & not raining.
One more question. How should I do the trans fluid change? I've heard drain & fill 3X to do it correctly. What's type of trans fluid should I use again? Unfortunately, AAA used some type of oil I haven't heard of while doing an oil change. I plan of getting my own supplies to do my own fluid changes.
They also noted that I should have my PS fluid flushed. How often do you have yours flushed? He also said that my hood struts were going, which I already knew. Any place I can get new ones for cheap?
One more question. How should I do the trans fluid change? I've heard drain & fill 3X to do it correctly. What's type of trans fluid should I use again? Unfortunately, AAA used some type of oil I haven't heard of while doing an oil change. I plan of getting my own supplies to do my own fluid changes.
They also noted that I should have my PS fluid flushed. How often do you have yours flushed? He also said that my hood struts were going, which I already knew. Any place I can get new ones for cheap?
Last edited by xakura21; 03-15-2013 at 09:13 PM.
03-16-2013, 12:34 AM
#60
installed the correct ngk plugs- 8 bucks each?
parts store for hood struts
Honda PS fluid ONLY, every 60kmiles
Honda DW1 ATF ONLY
you need ramps for the 3x3
warm up drive 15 minutes on freeway
max 5 minute drive between drains, use each gear up and down include P R N each of the drives a few times ,,around your block works fine, just moving old fluid out of torque convertor and lines with each drive
see note on cking fluid level correctly
see our diy on this too
please download free owner book with instruction on this job and others
www.owners.acura.com
parts store for hood struts
Honda PS fluid ONLY, every 60kmiles
Honda DW1 ATF ONLY
you need ramps for the 3x3
warm up drive 15 minutes on freeway
max 5 minute drive between drains, use each gear up and down include P R N each of the drives a few times ,,around your block works fine, just moving old fluid out of torque convertor and lines with each drive
see note on cking fluid level correctly
see our diy on this too
please download free owner book with instruction on this job and others
www.owners.acura.com
The following users liked this post:
xakura21 (03-16-2013)
03-16-2013, 06:14 AM
#61
Instructor
Thread Starter
installed the correct ngk plugs- 8 bucks each?
parts store for hood struts
Honda PS fluid ONLY, every 60kmiles
Honda DW1 ATF ONLY
you need ramps for the 3x3
warm up drive 15 minutes on freeway
max 5 minute drive between drains, use each gear up and down include P R N each of the drives a few times ,,around your block works fine, just moving old fluid out of torque convertor and lines with each drive
see note on cking fluid level correctly
see our diy on this too
please download free owner book with instruction on this job and others
www.owners.acura.com
parts store for hood struts
Honda PS fluid ONLY, every 60kmiles
Honda DW1 ATF ONLY
you need ramps for the 3x3
warm up drive 15 minutes on freeway
max 5 minute drive between drains, use each gear up and down include P R N each of the drives a few times ,,around your block works fine, just moving old fluid out of torque convertor and lines with each drive
see note on cking fluid level correctly
see our diy on this too
please download free owner book with instruction on this job and others
www.owners.acura.com
The mechanic told my I should flush my PS fluid every 3K. so I wouldn't have crud buildup. I've never heard of doing that every 3K.
03-17-2013, 10:25 AM
#62
www.owners.acura.com register by VIN and download free owner book with all maitenance schedules and some diy on basics
3k ps flush- this guy is wrong,,maybe he meant 30?
60k is per book,,but I bet few of us got that done on time,or yet to do at double it!
does improve steering feel and gets sludge out
there is even a seafoam procedure for it- IF you have to replace pump or rack due to crud
see tips on our diy
3k ps flush- this guy is wrong,,maybe he meant 30?
60k is per book,,but I bet few of us got that done on time,or yet to do at double it!
does improve steering feel and gets sludge out
there is even a seafoam procedure for it- IF you have to replace pump or rack due to crud
see tips on our diy
The following users liked this post:
xakura21 (03-17-2013)
03-18-2013, 08:46 AM
#64
Tranny drain & fill......?
A single drain & fill of the tranny's fluid means just that, (1x3) You remove the tranny's drain plug and approximately 3 qts will drain. If you drain the 3 qts and replace the 3 qts, you have performed a (1x3) drain & fill.
However, due to the age, mileage and questionable condition of our problematic TL trannys, it has been recommended to fully drain the tranny and converter's old fluid contents. This is especially important if the previous fluid was the original ZL1 or something else.
To achieve this full replacement of 9-10 qts. capacity, it must be done in three (3) separate drain & fills....yielding a 3 qt drain each time. This relates to 3 of the 1x3 drain & fills or as most describe being a full (3x3) which removes and replaces most all of the original fluid within the tranny with the newer and improved Honda DW1 fluid.
The following users liked this post:
xakura21 (03-18-2013)
03-18-2013, 11:29 AM
#65
total capacity is 7.3 qts with about half trapped in the TC at any time
when you drain what it will give up, approx 3 to 3.4 qts, there is still 4 qts trapped,
So you refill and drive as the manual directs ,in order to move old fluid out of the convertor and into the drain area
repeat drain and refill,,quick drive and drain and refill
chances are the car is still on the original atf, even if a replaced at dealer trans-
the new stuff is better and the only thing they sell at dealer now
You want to get the old stuff out so 3x3 is called for
If you have trans problems now- do not proceed until researching actual problem
a new filter and cleaning the shift selenoids is smart with the fluid change
when you drain what it will give up, approx 3 to 3.4 qts, there is still 4 qts trapped,
So you refill and drive as the manual directs ,in order to move old fluid out of the convertor and into the drain area
repeat drain and refill,,quick drive and drain and refill
chances are the car is still on the original atf, even if a replaced at dealer trans-
the new stuff is better and the only thing they sell at dealer now
You want to get the old stuff out so 3x3 is called for
If you have trans problems now- do not proceed until researching actual problem
a new filter and cleaning the shift selenoids is smart with the fluid change
The following users liked this post:
xakura21 (03-18-2013)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
acuratl26
2G TL (1999-2003)
24
04-23-2020 07:30 PM
EPS CL
1G CL (1997-1999)
128
06-02-2009 11:16 PM
manteuffel
3G TL Problems & Fixes
4
03-12-2006 11:12 PM
