Seafoam?
09-12-2012, 01:44 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Seafoam?
I have been reading replies to other forums about running seafoam through your car for various reasons. I am thinking about doing it to see if it will help my mpg because I'm only getting around 17mpg & I do about 85% city driving. What does seafoam do & where should I run it through. I realize there are many different solutions to this, but which would be the best way for me. Anything else that could up my mpg that you can think of would be greatly appreciated. I heard sport-shift helps mpg in the city. Is this true?
09-12-2012, 05:52 PM
#3
Hey Xakura21, there's plenty of proven documentation on this forum site with using "Seafoam".
Take some time and do some research on how to use along with the benefits.
First off, buy 2 cans. Then when your gas tank is between 1/4 & 1/2 full, put a can in to help clean the entire fuel system and injectors. When near the time to do an oil change, put a half can into the oil crankcase and run the car for a few hundred miles prior to replacing the oil. It'll help to clean the crud buildup and sludge out. With the last half can , you can clean out the TB intake.
At 100k, it helps to keep things clean and running smoother.
Take some time and do some research on how to use along with the benefits.
First off, buy 2 cans. Then when your gas tank is between 1/4 & 1/2 full, put a can in to help clean the entire fuel system and injectors. When near the time to do an oil change, put a half can into the oil crankcase and run the car for a few hundred miles prior to replacing the oil. It'll help to clean the crud buildup and sludge out. With the last half can , you can clean out the TB intake.
At 100k, it helps to keep things clean and running smoother.
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xakura21 (09-12-2012)
09-12-2012, 06:08 PM
#4
Hot Ass!
I did half a can in the gas tank at ~1/2 full; then did the other half SLOWLY through the PCV vacuum line when my car was hot, let my car sit for ~10 min, then drove around. The "smoke screen" part is FUN! 
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xakura21 (09-12-2012)
09-12-2012, 11:30 PM
#6
seafoam is SAFE many of us use it with no issues at all,,search my name and seafoam for more than you ever want to know.
I spent phone time with the tech guy at seafoam
www.seafoamsales.com for corp tech info
the correct place for vac port is the MASTER PORT at TB/Manifold junction
its a metal nipple that comes off the manifold
vac hose to it has a squeeze clamp- only one like it in that area!!!
DO NOT use other lines as they may/do not get all 6 cylinders
the correct gas ratio is 1 can to just under half tank
do that twice and you are done,, eliminates vac method
still need to clean air plate at TB throat, remove air snorkel tube for that
everything is in our diy section- look up `seafoam for 03 but works for all years `-
has the most recent pics/info etc
the direction vac nipple points varies, but cant miss it,,remove hose and nipple appears
I spent phone time with the tech guy at seafoam
www.seafoamsales.com for corp tech info
the correct place for vac port is the MASTER PORT at TB/Manifold junction
its a metal nipple that comes off the manifold
vac hose to it has a squeeze clamp- only one like it in that area!!!
DO NOT use other lines as they may/do not get all 6 cylinders
the correct gas ratio is 1 can to just under half tank
do that twice and you are done,, eliminates vac method
still need to clean air plate at TB throat, remove air snorkel tube for that
everything is in our diy section- look up `seafoam for 03 but works for all years `-
has the most recent pics/info etc
the direction vac nipple points varies, but cant miss it,,remove hose and nipple appears
09-12-2012, 11:34 PM
#7
techron and lucas require several bottles to equal 1 can seafoam,,notice how they are often sold in a 3 pack?
read the fine print,,even seafoam has fine print on can,,real doseage is 2 oz per gal fuel ,,not 1/3 can in gas as it says
they are good products, I have used both and run Chevron gas with techro in it.
but dollar for value = seafoam gets things clean restores power - tune up in a can
if you have 100k on the spark plugs they are past due
new ngk iridiums and seafoam, new air filter, all will help mpg
read the fine print,,even seafoam has fine print on can,,real doseage is 2 oz per gal fuel ,,not 1/3 can in gas as it says
they are good products, I have used both and run Chevron gas with techro in it.
but dollar for value = seafoam gets things clean restores power - tune up in a can
if you have 100k on the spark plugs they are past due
new ngk iridiums and seafoam, new air filter, all will help mpg
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09-14-2012, 09:59 AM
#10
What horror stories are there? Follow the instructions and nothing will go wrong. I've use it in my crankcase. Gas tank. And through my vacuum system and no ill effects at all. Put it in your oil then change it after 30 miles or so. Put it through the vac system slowly. A full can in your gas tank when it's at half full. It's not rocket science, you won't hurt anything if you use your brain.
09-14-2012, 10:14 AM
#11
it IS possible to mess up bad an cause engine to stall and backfire-with backwash of seafoam!! IF you apply it WAYYYYYY faster and more than directed= thru a vac port
as in: stick hose into can= fully immersed in seafoam = and sucked it dry in seconds,,then tried to rev engine....
more than 50/50 dilution of fuel/seafoam in the plenums and the car wont run
oddly, seafoam works as a starting fluid in low dose!
you can do gas tank method twice and not deal with vac system at all
It gets everything, more than vac method alone- which misses all fuel system
Vac method cleans pistons and intake valves instantly, gas method works as you drive
except DO use carb cleaner or deep creep on air plate inside throttle body
both sides and edges as good as you can,,use throttle to open plate-access other side
as in: stick hose into can= fully immersed in seafoam = and sucked it dry in seconds,,then tried to rev engine....
more than 50/50 dilution of fuel/seafoam in the plenums and the car wont run
oddly, seafoam works as a starting fluid in low dose!
you can do gas tank method twice and not deal with vac system at all
It gets everything, more than vac method alone- which misses all fuel system
Vac method cleans pistons and intake valves instantly, gas method works as you drive
except DO use carb cleaner or deep creep on air plate inside throttle body
both sides and edges as good as you can,,use throttle to open plate-access other side
09-14-2012, 01:33 PM
#12
Intermediate
I skimmed through the seafoam DIY thread just to look for instructions on how to do it, but I didnt see how often we should seafoam our cars.
I seafoamed my car about 3-4 months ago through gas tank, vac line, and crankcase, followed by an oil change. I think I've driven about 1k miles since the last seafoam. Is it too soon to seafoam again? I was planning on just pouring a can in the gas tank. Is seafoaming too often bad?
I seafoamed my car about 3-4 months ago through gas tank, vac line, and crankcase, followed by an oil change. I think I've driven about 1k miles since the last seafoam. Is it too soon to seafoam again? I was planning on just pouring a can in the gas tank. Is seafoaming too often bad?
09-15-2012, 01:33 AM
#13
first time foamers should repeat gas/vac method after a few tanks, 1-2kmiles,,whenever you feel like it
Use cleaning ratio of 2 oz per gal fuel,,= 1 can to half tank
midyear- 1 can in just under full tank for maitenance dose
full can in half tank wont hurt then!
oil, ok to do before every oil change @7500 miles, or every other for good practice
You can waste money by doing it every month in gas
Use quality gas of the correct octane and it wont get really bad for 6 months
Use cleaning ratio of 2 oz per gal fuel,,= 1 can to half tank
midyear- 1 can in just under full tank for maitenance dose
full can in half tank wont hurt then!
oil, ok to do before every oil change @7500 miles, or every other for good practice
You can waste money by doing it every month in gas
Use quality gas of the correct octane and it wont get really bad for 6 months
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feixjai (09-15-2012)
09-15-2012, 07:31 AM
#14
Right before every other oil change, I pour about 1/3 can into the oil before I head out to work (25min drive) and then drain the oil followed by a 1/2qt flush with the drain plug out to ensure all/any dirty oil is removed from oil pan. This ensures a clean crankcase and engine overall. Doing this I hardly ever see dark colored oil even after heavy nitrous use everyday.
I've heard that 4 out 5 interior decorators recommend SeaFoam and see why!
I've heard that 4 out 5 interior decorators recommend SeaFoam and see why!
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01tl4tl (09-15-2012)
09-15-2012, 11:11 AM
#15
wow,, I thought I knew the many things seafoam can do,,but interior decorating too!!
on my engine interior it went for the bare industrial look,,raw exposed metal
no carbon covers~
per seafoam: in oil 1.5 oz per qt = 1/2 can in the TL
drive at least 15 minutes, more is better in this job
30 minutes drive really good for 1st time
I do 200 miles before change with 30-45 minute trips and some use of vtec
make sure oil is warm from 15 minute freeway cruise,so all crud is liquefied and not stuck to bottem of the oil pan
noobs to oil method may want to install new filter- any cheap one is fine
add 1/2 can seafoam and drive ~200 miles
new filter eliminates any chance of the mass quantities of crud about to become loose- from overloading its capacity,,as one with 7500 miles on filter and 100k on engine may do
when the filter reaches its crud limit (and reduces oil pressure), it shuts a valve- and all oil bypasses the filter=
crud flows freely.. opposite of our desire of full capture!
on my engine interior it went for the bare industrial look,,raw exposed metal
no carbon covers~
per seafoam: in oil 1.5 oz per qt = 1/2 can in the TL
drive at least 15 minutes, more is better in this job
30 minutes drive really good for 1st time
I do 200 miles before change with 30-45 minute trips and some use of vtec
make sure oil is warm from 15 minute freeway cruise,so all crud is liquefied and not stuck to bottem of the oil pan
noobs to oil method may want to install new filter- any cheap one is fine
add 1/2 can seafoam and drive ~200 miles
new filter eliminates any chance of the mass quantities of crud about to become loose- from overloading its capacity,,as one with 7500 miles on filter and 100k on engine may do
when the filter reaches its crud limit (and reduces oil pressure), it shuts a valve- and all oil bypasses the filter=
crud flows freely.. opposite of our desire of full capture!
09-15-2012, 11:21 AM
#16
Seafoam deep cleans nitrous residue effectively.....!
09-16-2012, 09:59 AM
#17
Lmao, I doubt it...
Anywho, as 04tl04tl04tl04tl04tl (something like that) said above, make sure and drain the oil while it's hot. The oil is much thinner and carries the contaminants and dirty oil out much easier rather than a cooler, thicker oil. This is actually what most companies that manufacture engine flush chemicals recommend to do and it's based off of simple logic. I use to be the one who would wait till the engine cooled completely off and wait for all oil to collect in the oilpan before draining...roughly 4-6 hours depending on both engine/ambient temperature. Draining the oil while it's thinner and hot is a MUCH quicker and effective technique IMO.
Anywho, as 04tl04tl04tl04tl04tl (something like that) said above, make sure and drain the oil while it's hot. The oil is much thinner and carries the contaminants and dirty oil out much easier rather than a cooler, thicker oil. This is actually what most companies that manufacture engine flush chemicals recommend to do and it's based off of simple logic. I use to be the one who would wait till the engine cooled completely off and wait for all oil to collect in the oilpan before draining...roughly 4-6 hours depending on both engine/ambient temperature. Draining the oil while it's thinner and hot is a MUCH quicker and effective technique IMO.
09-16-2012, 10:36 AM
#18
the need for heat with seafoam in oil: when cold, a bunch of sludge will form a layer on bottem of oil pan
15 minutes on the freeway warms oil to real operating temp and `liquifies`(seafoams description) all the crud, so it drains out fully
yung: is that you,,, or the car,,,, thats heavy user of the Nitrous
15 minutes on the freeway warms oil to real operating temp and `liquifies`(seafoams description) all the crud, so it drains out fully
yung: is that you,,, or the car,,,, thats heavy user of the Nitrous
09-16-2012, 10:37 AM
#19
I seafoamed the oil in my odyssey yesterday since lately I've been kinda giving it the stepchild treatment and favoring the TL. Oil came out pitch ass black so I know the seafoam was doing its goodness inside the engine. Had to stab the filter to loosen it since the douche at sears who put the tires on torqued it like crazy when he did my free oil change then I'm pretty sure thats so you bring it back for another one when you can't remove it. Gonna do the vac system and gas tank after work today.
09-19-2012, 10:56 AM
#21
dave for reference-and any noobs to seafoam- please see the diy titled `seafoam for 03..but works for all years`
most recent version of the diy with new pics info etc
remember to get the throttle body air plate- must remove snorkel tube from air filter top to TB
get both sides and edges with carb cleaner or deep creep
for those who found deep creep and `seafoam spray cleaner` next to each other at parts store, we use deep creep
the new stuff lacks a lube oil we like for the TB air plate hinge, and we dont have a metal wire heater in the TB--which gets messed up by DC
You can do the vac method thru the TB opening too
hold rpm at 2000 for 2 minutes and let seafoam go in burst as fast as it will process thru
smoke will be impressive!
and you blasted off the pistons and intake valves near spotless
do that after inital dose at lower rpm,,letting crud loosen-soften
Engine warmup with 15 minute freeway drive before seafoam gives real results!
apply seafoam and let sit 10-15 minutes--no more,,,start engine follow diy tips on low rpm then a little more ,,,yadayada
no revving!~!~!
when you do 1 half tank fuel/1can and 1/3-1/2 can in vac port = you are done!
throw another can in gas in a month just to get any residue
most are good for a year/15 with a midyear fuel dose
do that with oil change when you add half can in the oil and other half in gas- below half tank for maintenance dose
keeping the fuel system clean keeps the rest clean too
most recent version of the diy with new pics info etc
remember to get the throttle body air plate- must remove snorkel tube from air filter top to TB
get both sides and edges with carb cleaner or deep creep
for those who found deep creep and `seafoam spray cleaner` next to each other at parts store, we use deep creep
the new stuff lacks a lube oil we like for the TB air plate hinge, and we dont have a metal wire heater in the TB--which gets messed up by DC
You can do the vac method thru the TB opening too
hold rpm at 2000 for 2 minutes and let seafoam go in burst as fast as it will process thru
smoke will be impressive!
and you blasted off the pistons and intake valves near spotless
do that after inital dose at lower rpm,,letting crud loosen-soften
Engine warmup with 15 minute freeway drive before seafoam gives real results!
apply seafoam and let sit 10-15 minutes--no more,,,start engine follow diy tips on low rpm then a little more ,,,yadayada
no revving!~!~!
when you do 1 half tank fuel/1can and 1/3-1/2 can in vac port = you are done!
throw another can in gas in a month just to get any residue
most are good for a year/15 with a midyear fuel dose
do that with oil change when you add half can in the oil and other half in gas- below half tank for maintenance dose
keeping the fuel system clean keeps the rest clean too
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 09-19-2012 at 11:00 AM.
10-10-2012, 08:07 AM
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'm going to seafoam my TL today & I have one more question. Do I have to go on a spirited drive after seafoaming? Because I've seen many videos where people are just revving until the smoke clears. Can't I just do that?
10-10-2012, 08:46 AM
#23
It's ideal to actually put the engine under high load that way combustion chamber/catalytic converter temps raise effectively high enough to remove the carbon deposits that were loosened by the SeaFoam. Simply revving an engine up in park is not as effective as driving it as it injects WAY more fuel at higher RPMs in drive than it does in park. A lot of people think its the same but it's not. Kind of like when trying to recreate an engine misfire. Driving the vehicle in its final drive gear at TCC lockup puts the greatest amount of load on the motor and makes a misfire much easier to identify due to the increased stress on the motor which helps reveal a weak coil or injector that cannot keep up. Try doing that in park and see if you recreate an intermittent cylinder misfire...ain't gonna happen.
10-10-2012, 09:49 AM
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
It's ideal to actually put the engine under high load that way combustion chamber/catalytic converter temps raise effectively high enough to remove the carbon deposits that were loosened by the SeaFoam. Simply revving an engine up in park is not as effective as driving it as it injects WAY more fuel at higher RPMs in drive than it does in park. A lot of people think its the same but it's not. Kind of like when trying to recreate an engine misfire. Driving the vehicle in its final drive gear at TCC lockup puts the greatest amount of load on the motor and makes a misfire much easier to identify due to the increased stress on the motor which helps reveal a weak coil or injector that cannot keep up. Try doing that in park and see if you recreate an intermittent cylinder misfire...ain't gonna happen.
10-10-2012, 10:30 AM
#25
2nd gear and able to do 2000, then 4000 rpm for a few minutes is all you need
forget any vids not produced by gen2TL ziners--
revving horrible for engine with heavy saturation of seafoam still in the plenums/intake
vac method= prewarm engine, after induction allow to sit for 10-15 minutes then start engine.
letting the engine run at just above idle for 1-2 minutes, then when it will rev easily to 2000
get in car and begin slow drive at 2000, 1st gear if needed
smoke will appear, thats the heat in cat reacting to oils in seafoam that are being blown thru
heat in cat is the critical part of this drive
do some 2000-5000 rpm romps,,again, 1 st gear if speeds are an issue, corners etc
5 minutes of this is good, 10 is better
on the odd chance you get a CEL it only means the O2 sensor got loaded up from not getting hot enough!
light will self clear after a few drives- which cleans the crud off for you
its best to add to gas tank before vac port method, so its getting that system cleaning right away
Alternate to all of that: good for those who dont have good drive access- and this is from the seafoam tech rep `no vac port method`
buy 2 cans
add 1 can to 8 gal- just under half a tank, drive however you like
trips over 30 minutes are really helpful
refuel when low
add 2nd can to half tank
drive
Thats better than just vac port method and has zero risk or speeding ticket concerns
gets everything clean
except
clean the TB air plate with carb cleaner, and replace the PCV $10, those are due on age and crud filled
forget any vids not produced by gen2TL ziners--
revving horrible for engine with heavy saturation of seafoam still in the plenums/intake
vac method= prewarm engine, after induction allow to sit for 10-15 minutes then start engine.
letting the engine run at just above idle for 1-2 minutes, then when it will rev easily to 2000
get in car and begin slow drive at 2000, 1st gear if needed
smoke will appear, thats the heat in cat reacting to oils in seafoam that are being blown thru
heat in cat is the critical part of this drive
do some 2000-5000 rpm romps,,again, 1 st gear if speeds are an issue, corners etc
5 minutes of this is good, 10 is better
on the odd chance you get a CEL it only means the O2 sensor got loaded up from not getting hot enough!
light will self clear after a few drives- which cleans the crud off for you
its best to add to gas tank before vac port method, so its getting that system cleaning right away
Alternate to all of that: good for those who dont have good drive access- and this is from the seafoam tech rep `no vac port method`
buy 2 cans
add 1 can to 8 gal- just under half a tank, drive however you like
trips over 30 minutes are really helpful
refuel when low
add 2nd can to half tank
drive
Thats better than just vac port method and has zero risk or speeding ticket concerns
gets everything clean
except
clean the TB air plate with carb cleaner, and replace the PCV $10, those are due on age and crud filled
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richnbc (10-15-2012)
10-10-2012, 12:24 PM
#26
Instructor
Thread Starter
I did it. I only put in almost half a can of seafoam. It stalled & I got so nervous, I immediately started it up. I forgot to wait 15 min & immediately drove in D3 hitting 60-70 mph for 5 min, as well as hitting VTEC once in a while. I then turned the car off & waited 15 min & went again in D3 hitting about 65 mph for another 5-7 min. I also forgot to put the rest of the seafoam into the gas tank. I haven't noticed any difference in response, but smoke did come out when I was revving (I only revved for about 2 min). I just filled up my tank (I was on E), so I have to wait another few weeks if I can still add the seafoam through the tank. So yeah, I kinda messed up.
10-10-2012, 12:26 PM
#27
Instructor
Thread Starter
Alternate to all of that: good for those who dont have good drive access- and this is from the seafoam tech rep `no vac port method`
buy 2 cans
add 1 can to 8 gal- just under half a tank, drive however you like
trips over 30 minutes are really helpful
refuel when low
add 2nd can to half tank
drive
Thats better than just vac port method and has zero risk or speeding ticket concerns
gets everything clean
except
clean the TB air plate with carb cleaner, and replace the PCV $10, those are due on age and crud filled
buy 2 cans
add 1 can to 8 gal- just under half a tank, drive however you like
trips over 30 minutes are really helpful
refuel when low
add 2nd can to half tank
drive
Thats better than just vac port method and has zero risk or speeding ticket concerns
gets everything clean
except
clean the TB air plate with carb cleaner, and replace the PCV $10, those are due on age and crud filled
10-10-2012, 08:15 PM
#28
could you have ignored the directions any more?
no pre-warm, no slow induction, no 2000 rpm induction, no cook time!!!, incorrect blowout drive
yeah --not surprised it didnt work right
did you even use the correct master vac port?
you want 2 ounces of seafoam per gallon of gas, the tank hold 17 gal
thats why we go 8 gal to 1 can
no pre-warm, no slow induction, no 2000 rpm induction, no cook time!!!, incorrect blowout drive
yeah --not surprised it didnt work right
did you even use the correct master vac port?
you want 2 ounces of seafoam per gallon of gas, the tank hold 17 gal
thats why we go 8 gal to 1 can
10-11-2012, 06:28 AM
#29
Instructor
Thread Starter
could you have ignored the directions any more?
no pre-warm, no slow induction, no 2000 rpm induction, no cook time!!!, incorrect blowout drive
yeah --not surprised it didnt work right
did you even use the correct master vac port?
you want 2 ounces of seafoam per gallon of gas, the tank hold 17 gal
thats why we go 8 gal to 1 can
no pre-warm, no slow induction, no 2000 rpm induction, no cook time!!!, incorrect blowout drive
yeah --not surprised it didnt work right
did you even use the correct master vac port?
you want 2 ounces of seafoam per gallon of gas, the tank hold 17 gal
thats why we go 8 gal to 1 can
10-11-2012, 07:29 AM
#30
Just take the time to read and fully understand the posted guidelines for "Sea Foaming".....and all will be well. Fortunately, you didn't totally panic while in the midst of blowing smoke. Try it again with better comprehension of the details involved. If you still don't feel comfortable or a bit queasy with this, have someone assist you for better results.
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xakura21 (10-11-2012)
10-11-2012, 09:00 AM
#31
Instructor
Thread Starter
Just take the time to read and fully understand the posted guidelines for "Sea Foaming".....and all will be well. Fortunately, you didn't totally panic while in the midst of blowing smoke. Try it again with better comprehension of the details involved. If you still don't feel comfortable or a bit queasy with this, have someone assist you for better results.
10-11-2012, 10:24 AM
#32
when you ask for advice then ignore it--you will get bs
we have answered the same questions so many times,,it gets frustrating when simple procedures are not followed
respect gets respect
its not just my directions you missed~
the diy title `Seafoam specifically for 03 but works for all years`,,is the most recent with best pics and info
its easy to not use the correct vac port!!! old diy (still posted) directed users to wrong place!!
- IE: the correct one has a hose clamp on it at TB to manifold connection
You use right hand on throttle to keep engine running and left hand to spray deep creep - seafoam aerosol into vac port or thru TB throat
if you went with liquid seafoam you may need a helper on throttle
caution, keep hose 1 inch above liquid at all times,,massive danger
again,,noobs-or anyone...add 1 can to half a tank
add 1 can to another half tank within a month
DONE!
we have answered the same questions so many times,,it gets frustrating when simple procedures are not followed
respect gets respect
its not just my directions you missed~
the diy title `Seafoam specifically for 03 but works for all years`,,is the most recent with best pics and info
its easy to not use the correct vac port!!! old diy (still posted) directed users to wrong place!!
- IE: the correct one has a hose clamp on it at TB to manifold connection
You use right hand on throttle to keep engine running and left hand to spray deep creep - seafoam aerosol into vac port or thru TB throat
if you went with liquid seafoam you may need a helper on throttle
caution, keep hose 1 inch above liquid at all times,,massive danger
again,,noobs-or anyone...add 1 can to half a tank
add 1 can to another half tank within a month
DONE!
10-12-2012, 08:10 AM
#33
I do agree with the initial heavy smoke period and NOT over revving the engine during this point. Upon immediately finishing a SeaFoam treatment, there will be a brief period in which the exhaust system (especially catalytic converters) as well as the combustion chambers are heavily saturated with the soot/carbon that was removed and this will essentially 'plug' up the engines ability to breath properly. If the engine is revved to high, this could definitely cause spark knock and detonation to the point where the motor could be damaged. I generally keep the RPMs around 1500-2000 at this time and until the buildup is removed where the engine doesn't sound like its loaded down and then begin revving it higher. It's a good idea (as 01TL4TL mentioned) to not keep the engine at a stable RPM but keep it fluctuating while often hitting the higher end of the tachometer.
I know it's probably beginning to sound like a science but I've seen a few people literally mess an engine up my either hydro locking the engine during the feed phase of the process or cause ring damage during the revving stage.
If in the event the engine dies while feeding the chemical into the motor, DO NOT restart it. Let it sit for a few moments until the liquid drains out of the combustion chamber or until the liquid becomes a vapor. This is what I meant by hydro locking. A liquid cannot be compressed inside the combustion chamber and if this happens, it could put a hole in the top of a piston very easily.
I know it's probably beginning to sound like a science but I've seen a few people literally mess an engine up my either hydro locking the engine during the feed phase of the process or cause ring damage during the revving stage.
If in the event the engine dies while feeding the chemical into the motor, DO NOT restart it. Let it sit for a few moments until the liquid drains out of the combustion chamber or until the liquid becomes a vapor. This is what I meant by hydro locking. A liquid cannot be compressed inside the combustion chamber and if this happens, it could put a hole in the top of a piston very easily.
10-12-2012, 09:42 AM
#34
Instructor
Thread Starter
If in the event the engine dies while feeding the chemical into the motor, DO NOT restart it. Let it sit for a few moments until the liquid drains out of the combustion chamber or until the liquid becomes a vapor. This is what I meant by hydro locking. A liquid cannot be compressed inside the combustion chamber and if this happens, it could put a hole in the top of a piston very easily.
I'm actually getting better MPG after I did that. Going to take the easy way out & do the gas tank procedure. I think I might just need new spark plugs because it takes a little longer for my car to start.
10-12-2012, 11:05 AM
#35
seafoam doesnt hurt spark plugs
BUT
if they have over 70kmiles they are due anyway
If they had over 100 and weakening spark output--its possible to get some carbon stuck on them during the process--hence the burn off drive requirements
do use the correct ngk 8$ each plugs
gas method will not hurt them at all
if car stalls during seafoam it just means you exceeded a 50/50 mix with fuel in the plenums- headed for the final intake area
engine wont run on that mix
dont have to wait, just restart and keep rpm a little higher this time
as you add seafoam,,its sip sip sip,,or spray spray spray with rpm stabilize time between
whats largely coming out as smoke is the 3 oils that make up seafoam reacting to HEAT in the cat..engine preheat and cat heat before/after are very important for vac method
thats why a limit on the percolate/cook time of 15 minutes,,
but it needs that time to get best results for you dollars spent
if your mpg went up with a partial vac job- get on the gas tank method now!
any amount of fuel- add 2 OZ per gal of fuel,,full tank, 2 cans
that will do the entire job for you without any worries
reminder to get the TB air plate clean,, separate job that seafoam cant reach-
remove air filter top and snorkel to TB
BUT
if they have over 70kmiles they are due anyway
If they had over 100 and weakening spark output--its possible to get some carbon stuck on them during the process--hence the burn off drive requirements
do use the correct ngk 8$ each plugs
gas method will not hurt them at all
if car stalls during seafoam it just means you exceeded a 50/50 mix with fuel in the plenums- headed for the final intake area
engine wont run on that mix
dont have to wait, just restart and keep rpm a little higher this time
as you add seafoam,,its sip sip sip,,or spray spray spray with rpm stabilize time between
whats largely coming out as smoke is the 3 oils that make up seafoam reacting to HEAT in the cat..engine preheat and cat heat before/after are very important for vac method
thats why a limit on the percolate/cook time of 15 minutes,,
but it needs that time to get best results for you dollars spent
if your mpg went up with a partial vac job- get on the gas tank method now!
any amount of fuel- add 2 OZ per gal of fuel,,full tank, 2 cans
that will do the entire job for you without any worries
reminder to get the TB air plate clean,, separate job that seafoam cant reach-
remove air filter top and snorkel to TB
10-12-2012, 11:07 AM
#36
slower start is often clogged EGR passage and port system INSIDE the intake manifold
must remove entire manifold and TB to properly clean, and get the idle air control system while you are in there
needed every 75kmiles and not found in maintenance book
must remove entire manifold and TB to properly clean, and get the idle air control system while you are in there
needed every 75kmiles and not found in maintenance book
The following users liked this post:
xakura21 (10-12-2012)
10-12-2012, 01:18 PM
#37
I use two cans when I perform a full induction treatment (1 for the intake & 1 for the tank).
1. Remove the intake tube from the air box (not the throttle body), and tilt upwards.
2. pour 75% of one can into a chemically inert spray bottle. Don't cut corners here by using a bottle that was used for something else. GET A NEW ONE
3. Start the car
4. Spray the Seafoam into the intake tube until empty.
5. Quickly dump the remaining 25%, in the Seafoam bottle, into the intake tube. This will kill the car. You do this so that a significant quantity of the Seafoam can pool up on top of the pistons.
6. Turn the ignition off. This sounds like a nobrainer, but you'd be surprised how many dimwits have blamed Seafoam for killing their battery.
7. Let the car rest for twenty minutes.
8. Reapply the intake hose to the air box.
8. Start the car. Don't be alarmed, it might have a labored start and a rough idle until the fluid clears the cylinders. The car will smoke like crazy for a couple of minutes. Let it idle until the smoke clears, and don't rev the engine. The lubrication in the cylinders is somewhat diminished during this process so, as tempting as it is, don't rev or advance the throttle.
8. Once the intake application is complete, apply half of the second can to a full tank of gas. You can add an entire can, but prefer using the whole can over two tanks.
That's it .
1. Remove the intake tube from the air box (not the throttle body), and tilt upwards.
2. pour 75% of one can into a chemically inert spray bottle. Don't cut corners here by using a bottle that was used for something else. GET A NEW ONE
3. Start the car
4. Spray the Seafoam into the intake tube until empty.
5. Quickly dump the remaining 25%, in the Seafoam bottle, into the intake tube. This will kill the car. You do this so that a significant quantity of the Seafoam can pool up on top of the pistons.
6. Turn the ignition off. This sounds like a nobrainer, but you'd be surprised how many dimwits have blamed Seafoam for killing their battery.
7. Let the car rest for twenty minutes.
8. Reapply the intake hose to the air box.
8. Start the car. Don't be alarmed, it might have a labored start and a rough idle until the fluid clears the cylinders. The car will smoke like crazy for a couple of minutes. Let it idle until the smoke clears, and don't rev the engine. The lubrication in the cylinders is somewhat diminished during this process so, as tempting as it is, don't rev or advance the throttle.
8. Once the intake application is complete, apply half of the second can to a full tank of gas. You can add an entire can, but prefer using the whole can over two tanks.
That's it .
10-12-2012, 08:35 PM
#38
Instructor
Thread Starter
seafoam doesnt hurt spark plugs
if your mpg went up with a partial vac job- get on the gas tank method now!
any amount of fuel- add 2 OZ per gal of fuel,,full tank, 2 cans
that will do the entire job for you without any worries
reminder to get the TB air plate clean,, separate job that seafoam cant reach-
remove air filter top and snorkel to TB
if your mpg went up with a partial vac job- get on the gas tank method now!
any amount of fuel- add 2 OZ per gal of fuel,,full tank, 2 cans
that will do the entire job for you without any worries
reminder to get the TB air plate clean,, separate job that seafoam cant reach-
remove air filter top and snorkel to TB
10-12-2012, 09:17 PM
#39
There's absolutely no need or reason to have the motor running while adding Seafoam to the fuel tank. Just be mindful of the concentration ratio as previously posted.
But, keep in mind that the most beneficial method of Seafoaming is by the direct vac introduction which comes strongly recommended by most 'Ziners. Also, cleaning the EGR along with the intake TB and IASC will greatly enhance your TL's idle and overall driveabiliy. This DIY procedure will result in more improved performance, efficiency and better gas mileage, returning the motor to a like new feeling.
But, keep in mind that the most beneficial method of Seafoaming is by the direct vac introduction which comes strongly recommended by most 'Ziners. Also, cleaning the EGR along with the intake TB and IASC will greatly enhance your TL's idle and overall driveabiliy. This DIY procedure will result in more improved performance, efficiency and better gas mileage, returning the motor to a like new feeling.
10-12-2012, 10:51 PM
#40
do NOT follow mhacks method--maybe of you are storing the car for 6 months go ahead and fog it like that,
,otherwise please please for your own good and the cars,,stay with tested ziner method, diys reviewed by a panel,,info fine tuned by phone with seafoams head tech guy
sure remove the entire snorkel so you can access the TB air plate
and you can spray seafoam/deep creep thru the big opening of the air plate for vac method..that works excellent there,,just less vac than the port just past it
I have been known to use both master port and tb throat on different cars- wherever I can get, shoot some foam!
as seafoam hits the pistons it loosens- liquifies is seafoams word- carbon buildup
If you hold rpm at 2000 halfway thru the procedure, it will generate more heat and exhaust pressure, blasting the loosened stuff off the pistons
There are utube vids of the actual cleaning real time- its cool,,happens in seconds
No need for a full can thru intake vac,,thats wasteful - once its done the job- its done
use remainder in spray form as hinge lube, throttle spring lube and 1000 other uses
gas tank, this is direct from seafoams tech guy: minimum 3/4 ounce per gal in gas or no reasonable effect
maintenance dose midyear after full cleaning done before = 1 oz per gal = 1 can just under full tank (we hold 17.3) can is 16oz
CLEANING DOSE -what we need = 2 ounces per gal of fuel or 1 can to just under half tank
more than that does not speed or improve cleaning process
get the most value for your dollar
more fuel (not 1/4 tank) gives more time and heat to help clean everything in the fuel lines, o2 sensor, cat,,intake parts yadayada
confirm any of this at www.seafoam sales.com official website of seafoam
tech section has different methods shown
,otherwise please please for your own good and the cars,,stay with tested ziner method, diys reviewed by a panel,,info fine tuned by phone with seafoams head tech guy
sure remove the entire snorkel so you can access the TB air plate
and you can spray seafoam/deep creep thru the big opening of the air plate for vac method..that works excellent there,,just less vac than the port just past it
I have been known to use both master port and tb throat on different cars- wherever I can get, shoot some foam!
as seafoam hits the pistons it loosens- liquifies is seafoams word- carbon buildup
If you hold rpm at 2000 halfway thru the procedure, it will generate more heat and exhaust pressure, blasting the loosened stuff off the pistons
There are utube vids of the actual cleaning real time- its cool,,happens in seconds
No need for a full can thru intake vac,,thats wasteful - once its done the job- its done
use remainder in spray form as hinge lube, throttle spring lube and 1000 other uses
gas tank, this is direct from seafoams tech guy: minimum 3/4 ounce per gal in gas or no reasonable effect
maintenance dose midyear after full cleaning done before = 1 oz per gal = 1 can just under full tank (we hold 17.3) can is 16oz
CLEANING DOSE -what we need = 2 ounces per gal of fuel or 1 can to just under half tank
more than that does not speed or improve cleaning process
get the most value for your dollar
more fuel (not 1/4 tank) gives more time and heat to help clean everything in the fuel lines, o2 sensor, cat,,intake parts yadayada
confirm any of this at www.seafoam sales.com official website of seafoam
tech section has different methods shown
The following users liked this post:
xakura21 (10-13-2012)