snowman81

Does anyone know what the minimum thickness is for the Rotora Slotted rotors for my 02 TL-S? I called Rotora and he clumisly gave me an answer of normally 2 mm less than orginial thickness...is that right? Mine are warped and I'm thinking about getting them turned tomorrow. Thanks in advance.

01tl4tl

If you remove the wheel- cast into the center hub will be the words min thick and something like 21mm
thats the only way to be certain for that particular rotor
While you are in there pull the pads and look for glassy appearance
Then- the only way to test for warp is a dial indicator run-out guage
You could have pad or rotor glaze more likely
Be aware that a regular brake lathe cannot be used on slotted rotors
so that 6$ place wont even be able to do them
It takes a machine shop that does engines and flywheels to have the tool and skill required
Dont assume its rotors

snowman81

So you're saying there could be something else causing the vibration when I stop? If it is pad or rotor glaze, how would I go about getting rid of it? I think I've read it somewhere on here before so I'm gonna search, but I figured I'd throw the question out there anyway. I'll let you know if I find it before you repost. Thanks

snowman81

Well, I just read a thread from a couple months back where you and some d and b guy had a little back and forth. So if it is glazed pads, should I replace them or can I break them in again?

fsttyms1

if its glazed try bedding them in again

snowman81

thanks...i meant to say bedding instead of breaking, but you get my point. I'll give it a shot and see how that goes.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

ROTORA rotors are OE thickness so whatever the stock disc is, that is what the ROTORA disc is. Also ROTORA designed their rotors so that the slots are also an indication of rotor life. Once the slots are gone the rotors is at the end of its life. Also how many miles on your rotors? You probably just need to re bed the pads.

Here is a break-in/bed-in procedure:

After completing installation, make a series of 10 stops from 60 to 5-10 MPH. At the end of each stop, immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop. Run all stops in one cycle. During the 60 to 5-10 MPH series of stops, the exact speed is not critical. Accelerate to approximately 60 and begin the braking cycle. As you approach 5-10 MPH, it is not necessary to watch the speedometer, keep your eyes on the road and approximate your speed at the end of each cycle.

DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP, AS YOU WILL IMPRINT PAD MATERIAL ONTO THE ROTOR, CAUSING A VIBRATION.

There are several indicators to look for while breaking in the system: On the 8th or 9th stop, there should be a distinct smell from the brakes. Smoke may be evident after several stops as well.

Also on the 8th or 9th stop, some friction materials will experience “green fade”. This is a slight fading of the brakes. The fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have cooled.

After the break-in cycle is finished, there will be a blue tint color on the rotor with a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint indicates the rotor has reached the proper break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is normal and good! If f racing or higher per performance pads are being used, add four stops from 80 to 5-10mph and if a full race pad, four stops from 100 to 5-10 mph. After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes will still not be operating at their best capacity. A second or third d bed-in cycle is typically necessary before the brakes really start to “ come in”. A cycle is a series of stops with a cool down in between each cycle.

After the final stop of each cycle, drive as much as possible without using the brakes to cool off the system. Ideally, the brakes should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature before using again.

snowman81

Thanks for the info...I am gonna take a look at them today and see what I can do to remedy the problem.

01tl4tl

Great info Josh!!

To make a few points very clear- the word STOPS really means SLOW DOWNS with intent!
At no point during the bedding procedure should you come to a full stop as noted in above post- that will defeat your purpose

After the procedure- drive on freeway 15 minutes at normal speed to allow air to cool the brakes back down slowly- temp shock is a killer on metal parts

As Josh said- you are looking for some color on the rotors and evidence of the pads transfer layer beginning- that material makes for better braking
Shiny rotors are not working!!!
Many rotors take about 500 street miles to get the pads and rotors fully mated and working 100% Use caution with new brakes and start your braking effort sooner and harder than normal-
Better to stop sooner than using the curb as a ~decellerative device~
This also help gas mileage because you roll towards the red light at 15 and it goes green while the next lane is stopped- you use less gas to get back to speed!

Brakes also work better when used in segments of speed/time, drop some speed and release, drop more and release....this allows cooling of the pads as you brake- before sitting with hot brakes applied at bottem of the off-ramp- and uses the brakes for their intended purpose. They like a little heat...not a lot of heat from being dragged slooowwwwwwly to a halt (screeeeeeeeeeeeech)

hmmm whats that noise in my brand new brakes???