Replacing half shaft assemblies? (axles)

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Old 09-30-2008, 12:18 PM
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Replacing half shaft assemblies? (axles)

Does anyone here know how hard it is to replace the axle assemblies (half shafts) on a 2000 acura tl , I have replaced the ones on my honda s2000 but how different is it on front wheel drive?

Thanx
Fred
Old 09-30-2008, 08:47 PM
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Pretty easy (since you sound like you know what you're doing)
Old 09-30-2008, 10:25 PM
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i just took out the axles in my car this weekend. as long as you can get the rotors, upper control arm and tie rod off, you can get the axles out. i can help you out if you need it - it's all fresh in my mind!
Old 09-30-2008, 11:15 PM
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Get that hub out of the way as stated above, and then basically just stick screwdriver in where the axle is jointed with the trans and pry it apart. Circled in red is where axles are joined with the trans:



Push the new ones back in and you're good to go.
Old 10-01-2008, 08:22 AM
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Thannk you everybody, you have been most helpful, i figured it was kind of easy, but unfortunatly i havent had any time to myself lately, work is kind of crazy, so i am letting the dealership do it, 650 for both they quoted, I'm gonna have to bite the bullet on this one in terms of just getting it done.
Old 10-01-2008, 09:33 AM
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2 questions for discussion - how do you know when its time to replace one? symptoms and is there an actual DIY on this? I think you also need to take off the axle nut and whole nuckle right? so the lower control arm would need to be disconnected? thank you!
Old 10-01-2008, 11:15 AM
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Symptoms = excessive shaking and such...And yes, the axle nut has to come off. It is attached to...the axle (hence the name). The whole knuckle does not necessarily have to come off...I'm fairly sure only the lower ball joint will have to be separated in order to swing the hub out of the way. This separation can be achieved with the loaner tool 'ball joint separator set' that looks like a set of tuning forks. Put fork to balljoint, and hit with a hammer...over...and over...and over...and over. This generally takes a while. Here's a diy that should help:

http://www.nb-performance.com/diylowerballjoint.html

I know it's for ball joints...and for a prelude....but it contains all the info you need to get the hub off.
Old 10-01-2008, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Seantype-s
This separation can be achieved with the loaner tool 'ball joint separator set' that looks like a set of tuning forks. .
Didn't that type tool destroy the rubber boot around the ball joint?
Old 10-01-2008, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by chrismeoli
2 questions for discussion - how do you know when its time to replace one? symptoms and is there an actual DIY on this? I think you also need to take off the axle nut and whole nuckle right? so the lower control arm would need to be disconnected? thank you!
Also, clicking type of noise when making sharp turns (bad CV joint).
Old 10-01-2008, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by AlanW
Didn't that type tool destroy the rubber boot around the ball joint?
They almost always ruin the boot, but there's an easy way to remove the ball joint stud from the contol arm without a "pickle fork". Take the castle nut off the ball joint, and hit the part of the casting that the tapered part of the ball joint goes through. It helps to have another hammer on the opposite side of the casting. You might want to put the nut back on a few threads as you've got to hit the casting pretty hard and you might slip and hit the ball joint stud threads. It might take 10 to 20 hard hits to free it up, but it almost never fails.
Old 10-01-2008, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by AlanW
Didn't that type tool destroy the rubber boot around the ball joint?
Not necessarily...Those boots are pretty tough...I guess its possible, but I've pulled off each of my hubs multiple times this summer using this process and never had a problem.

edit: Plus I don't really think that there is any other way to get the ball joint separated.
Old 10-01-2008, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Seantype-s
This separation can be achieved with the loaner tool 'ball joint separator set' that looks like a set of tuning forks. Put fork to balljoint, and hit with a hammer...over...and over...and over...and over


Old 10-01-2008, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by AlanW
Didn't that type tool destroy the rubber boot around the ball joint?
you can buy new boots from the dealer for under 10 bucks for both.
Old 10-01-2008, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by chrismeoli
so the lower control arm would need to be disconnected?
not necessarily...you can get away with the upper arm and the tie rod if you choose. i used a bang-the-stud-threads-with-a-hammer method(i placed a metal plate there to make sure i didnt damage the stud) to get to my axle only because i couldnt get my car high enough to get to the lower control arm using said method.
Old 10-01-2008, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Stimpy
not necessarily...you can get away with the upper arm and the tie rod if you choose. i used a bang-the-stud-threads-with-a-hammer method(i placed a metal plate there to make sure i didnt damage the stud) to get to my axle only because i couldnt get my car high enough to get to the lower control arm using said method.
Yea but removing the lower is easier and gives more movement resulting in it being easier to get out.
Old 10-02-2008, 10:17 AM
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i got all that basic stuff, thanks. I am wondering if there is any more to the actual removal and install on the shaft itself? is there any special way to align it in there, any markings to be aware of, or is literally just get to it, pop out th eold and slide in the new? do the come greased or need to be? thanks!
Old 10-02-2008, 11:24 AM
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its splined. nothing special. Just dont pull hard on it. Get a screw driver or flat bar behind the shaft where it meets the tranny and pry there while pulling to pop it out of the trans
Old 10-02-2008, 11:44 AM
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thanks very much! looks like something i am gonna attempt this weekend then. got a right side, whining and little shake sometimes.
Old 10-02-2008, 12:13 PM
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the half shaft shoulnt cause any sound other than clicking or poping when bad.
Old 10-02-2008, 09:31 PM
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so a few weeks ago my car started shaking at high speeds. the car kinda shakes and the wheel vibrates. at about 35mph i can feel a pulsing movement. reading around i figured it's gotta be my axles.

well driving home from school today doing 80, the car was fine. completely stable and no shaking. is this ok or should i replace em anyway?
Old 10-02-2008, 10:02 PM
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wheel bearings?
Old 10-03-2008, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Razzi
so a few weeks ago my car started shaking at high speeds. the car kinda shakes and the wheel vibrates. at about 35mph i can feel a pulsing movement. reading around i figured it's gotta be my axles.

well driving home from school today doing 80, the car was fine. completely stable and no shaking. is this ok or should i replace em anyway?
replace what? axles? you dont even know if they are bad. find out what is wrong, dont just go replacing things.
Old 10-03-2008, 07:34 PM
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Ive got kind of a similar problem with mine. Usually at 50 mph i get a vibration in the front end, and again around 80. (like an out of balance tire) my tires are all aired up proper and in balance so that can be ruled out. I also noticed the other morning when it was cooler it vibrated worse.
Old 10-05-2008, 11:08 PM
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Advice on razzi and twistedwedge, take it to a shop and have them do a diagnosis. There are a number of suspension problems that could result in the symptoms you are both describing. Like stated above, don't just go replacing things, you will end up wasting your money and most likely you won't solve the problem. And FYI, if you do try and fix it yourself, know that suspension work is not fun.
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