Ran out of options to keep my transmission alive, help with pointers and tips.
#1
Ran out of options to keep my transmission alive, help with pointers and tips.
I have a 02 TL-S and it has a rebuilt tranny. Ay least thats what the receipt from the person I bought it off said. I was driving a couple months ago, and when the vtec kicked in, it sounded like a squeal. A month later, i found myself with difficulties locking into gears. I thought it was fried. I checked the trans oil and it was empty, bought 3qts of atf-dw1 poured it in, and she was good to go. 2weeks later i had the same issue with shifting and this time she wouldn't engage from park into any gear. I poured some Lucas trans-fix and she was running again. But i seemed to have leaked it out within a week. Got some Lucas and valvoline trans oil, mixed it up and got it running again. I found that the seal where the drivers side axle goes into the trans-housing was leaking. I replaced it but the trans kinda locked, and again it made a squeal as if it was under pressure and again it shifted fine, but the leak was back. At this point the only thing thats making her run is lucas trans-fix but im over $100 in 2 wks worth of oil. Today, i had no 3rd gear, i manually had to shift from 2nd to 4th gear to have traction, barely made it home an i really dont want to keep buying 2-3 bottles of Lucas, on a side note, if i pour in anything less thicker than lucas it slips bad, no gears or traction. Any input? Im looking at the local yards for a transmission, $175 with a torque converter. Thoughts comments?
#2
Instructor
I have a 02 TL-S and it has a rebuilt tranny. Ay least thats what the receipt from the person I bought it off said. I was driving a couple months ago, and when the vtec kicked in, it sounded like a squeal. A month later, i found myself with difficulties locking into gears. I thought it was fried. I checked the trans oil and it was empty, bought 3qts of atf-dw1 poured it in, and she was good to go. 2weeks later i had the same issue with shifting and this time she wouldn't engage from park into any gear. I poured some Lucas trans-fix and she was running again. But i seemed to have leaked it out within a week. Got some Lucas and valvoline trans oil, mixed it up and got it running again. I found that the seal where the drivers side axle goes into the trans-housing was leaking. I replaced it but the trans kinda locked, and again it made a squeal as if it was under pressure and again it shifted fine, but the leak was back. At this point the only thing thats making her run is lucas trans-fix but im over $100 in 2 wks worth of oil. Today, i had no 3rd gear, i manually had to shift from 2nd to 4th gear to have traction, barely made it home an i really dont want to keep buying 2-3 bottles of Lucas, on a side note, if i pour in anything less thicker than lucas it slips bad, no gears or traction. Any input? Im looking at the local yards for a transmission, $175 with a torque converter. Thoughts comments?
#3
Sounds like the trans is on its last lifeline. Basically same thing that happened to mine. I am actually doing the AV6 swap as we speak. Should be almost finished by tomorrow. Cheaper than a rebuild and according to a whole lot of people on the forums, a hell of a lot more reliable.
#4
Instructor
Thanks for your reply. I was actually reading yourjourney with your car, and I am leaning towards that AV6 swap, there are more TL's than Accords at the local yards. Most of them (accords) wrecked, compared to whole body TL's that leads me to believe that many of them come from owners who got frustrated with the transmission and decided to junk it because of the insane costs to repair. I been doing my research and homework on the process to remove the transmission, as i plan to go and pull one out. My concern is, how can one figure out if the transmission still has life? I figure that if a TL is wrecked then the car was fine and running, but if a TL is complete without any wreck damage that leads me to believe that it might have tranny issues thus ending up at the yard. Any pointers on issues you faced while removing the tranny? I dont have power tools or air tools, and i would like to believe that even if i break something or strip a bolt at the yard, i can learn from that and move to the next TL given that it hasnt been touched at the transmission. But i rather get it right the first time. The pick ur part has the transmission w/ torque converter for $160 and warranty is available with option to return for cash back or exchange. Thoughts?
The following users liked this post:
Arkady (08-25-2017)
#5
Burning Brakes
"My concern is, how can one figure out if the transmission still has life? I figure that if a TL is wrecked then the car was fine and running, but if a TL is complete without any wreck damage that leads me to believe that it might have tranny issues thus ending up at the yard". Generally, using your logic, (Wrecked = transmission was fine and running) would apply to most vehicles. NOT the case with 2G TL models. The probability of stumbling on a Great Condition, used TL transmission, is a crap-shoot. You may luck out, and buy a transmission which may last 100k miles, but that is unlikely. Conversely, a pick-n-pull unit may only last 1k miles, or, may not work properly, at all!. Without disassembly and inspection, there is no way "one can figure out if the transmission still has life". The B7WA transmission, is prone to premature failure, period. Probability of reliability, is the main reason many members here, recommend the AV6 option. Your chances of obtaining a (reliable) AV6 are much greater than locating a (good) B7WA. Dollar wise, the pick-n-pull option, may be worth the Risk to you, if your labor is free, and you don't mind the possibility of having to do the job twice or three times. If you elect the AV6 route, make certain to review previous posts regarding incomparable torque converter sizes and or bolt patterns, an issue which some on this site have encountered, and would be well worth sorting out before your installation.
The following users liked this post:
Arkady (08-25-2017)
#6
Instructor
"My concern is, how can one figure out if the transmission still has life? I figure that if a TL is wrecked then the car was fine and running, but if a TL is complete without any wreck damage that leads me to believe that it might have tranny issues thus ending up at the yard". Generally, using your logic, (Wrecked = transmission was fine and running) would apply to most vehicles. NOT the case with 2G TL models. The probability of stumbling on a Great Condition, used TL transmission, is a crap-shoot. You may luck out, and buy a transmission which may last 100k miles, but that is unlikely. Conversely, a pick-n-pull unit may only last 1k miles, or, may not work properly, at all!. Without disassembly and inspection, there is no way "one can figure out if the transmission still has life". The B7WA transmission, is prone to premature failure, period. Probability of reliability, is the main reason many members here, recommend the AV6 option. Your chances of obtaining a (reliable) AV6 are much greater than locating a (good) B7WA. Dollar wise, the pick-n-pull option, may be worth the Risk to you, if your labor is free, and you don't mind the possibility of having to do the job twice or three times. If you elect the AV6 route, make certain to review previous posts regarding incomparable torque converter sizes and or bolt patterns, an issue which some on this site have encountered, and would be well worth sorting out before your installation.
#7
Moderator
FYI: The only problem with the AV6 Swap and Incorrect Torque Converter is IF YOU USE anything but a 2006-2007 Transmission.. 2005 will cause the TC fitment issue.
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#8
Instructor
#9
The AV6 swap is what im going to do, I tried one last thing today, i cleaned out the top & bottom solenoids the pressure switches under the starter, i just missed two top solenoids below the engine cover. Results: instant light of death. Blinking D5 right off the bat. Really bad and ugly 1st gear, that gut wrenching sound of pressing the gas pedal, the high rpm and moving at the speed of a turtle. However, i let go of the gas so it can engage into second gear and it seems o be ok after that. I even jumped unto 3rd gear without a problem. Yesterday i had no 3rd gear as it would slip extremely and i had to shift from 2nd to 4th. Im trying to understand how this works, im assuming that maybe the solenoids i missed and didnt clean out are clogged badly restricting flow and only pressurizing the case. I cant even go into reverse that well. Seems like if i wouldn't of cleaned the solenoids and pressure switches i wouldn't of had this issue. But i like to learn and understand whats happening inside that glass house. Its on its last days, so i will be keeping an eye out for a AV6 trans at the yards. Thanks for the input fellas. I really appreciate it. I'll post up the progress as i just don't want to let this baby go. Question. If i get that AV6 trans, whats some pointers to do to it? I'll be dropping it from a pull parts yard not knowing the history, obviously as i was told replace all the seals and gasket, should i also do a trans flush? Drain all the old fluids out? Drain and refill the TC before installing? Thanks in advance and dor pointing me the right direction.
#10
Instructor
The AV6 swap is what im going to do, I tried one last thing today, i cleaned out the top & bottom solenoids the pressure switches under the starter, i just missed two top solenoids below the engine cover. Results: instant light of death. Blinking D5 right off the bat. Really bad and ugly 1st gear, that gut wrenching sound of pressing the gas pedal, the high rpm and moving at the speed of a turtle. However, i let go of the gas so it can engage into second gear and it seems o be ok after that. I even jumped unto 3rd gear without a problem. Yesterday i had no 3rd gear as it would slip extremely and i had to shift from 2nd to 4th. Im trying to understand how this works, im assuming that maybe the solenoids i missed and didnt clean out are clogged badly restricting flow and only pressurizing the case. I cant even go into reverse that well. Seems like if i wouldn't of cleaned the solenoids and pressure switches i wouldn't of had this issue. But i like to learn and understand whats happening inside that glass house. Its on its last days, so i will be keeping an eye out for a AV6 trans at the yards. Thanks for the input fellas. I really appreciate it. I'll post up the progress as i just don't want to let this baby go. Question. If i get that AV6 trans, whats some pointers to do to it? I'll be dropping it from a pull parts yard not knowing the history, obviously as i was told replace all the seals and gasket, should i also do a trans flush? Drain all the old fluids out? Drain and refill the TC before installing? Thanks in advance and dor pointing me the right direction.
As far as the AV6 trans, make sure it is a 06-07 trans. I got an 05 trans, technically still an AV6 (BAYA) trans, but different torque converter. The best way to check is by the sticker on the trans. You will see it says "BAYA-random numbers" and underneath that will be a set of numbers starting with either a 6 or a 7. Mine started with a 5 so I believe the first number denominates what year the trans is from. Another way to confirm is to simply measure the torque converter on the trans or just bring the flexplate from your car to the junkyard. If it matches up, you got the right trans lol. On the trans, I changed the transmission filter, drained all the fluid, changed axle seals, I didn't change the seals on the trans oil warmer as they looked new. I also changed the mounts on the trans since it was already off the car, the rear main seal, and front and side motor mounts. I basically did all the maintenance I could do that required removing the transmission. Hope this helps and good luck!
#11
#12
Instructor
#13
Moderator
More detailed: New fluid contains detergents that get old fluid deposits unstuck which can clog up the solenoids.
But no way shape or form is BETTER to run old fluid that is actually degrading and wearing out healthy clutch packages reducing the overall transmission lifespan.
But no way shape or form is BETTER to run old fluid that is actually degrading and wearing out healthy clutch packages reducing the overall transmission lifespan.
#14
On the side note of an AV6 swap
Is the transmission on an AV6 similar to that of the TL when it comes down to dropping it from the accord? I've seen the tutorial on a guy dropping the TL trans at his house (blue tl) pretty useful and straight forward. Is this the case for the Accord too? Thanks TL fam.
#15
Moderator
Yep its identical.
Just a tip: I dunno if the video you saw mentioned the middle shaft carrier but sometimes they miss it and makes the trans stick to the engine because of the CV retainer tab that needs to be unclipped when removing the CV, If you don´t remove the middle shaft carrier it will make the trans "seem" stuck to the engine but its actually being held down by the middle shaft.
Just a tip: I dunno if the video you saw mentioned the middle shaft carrier but sometimes they miss it and makes the trans stick to the engine because of the CV retainer tab that needs to be unclipped when removing the CV, If you don´t remove the middle shaft carrier it will make the trans "seem" stuck to the engine but its actually being held down by the middle shaft.
#16
Yep its identical.
Just a tip: I dunno if the video you saw mentioned the middle shaft carrier but sometimes they miss it and makes the trans stick to the engine because of the CV retainer tab that needs to be unclipped when removing the CV, If you don´t remove the middle shaft carrier it will make the trans "seem" stuck to the engine but its actually being held down by the middle shaft.
Just a tip: I dunno if the video you saw mentioned the middle shaft carrier but sometimes they miss it and makes the trans stick to the engine because of the CV retainer tab that needs to be unclipped when removing the CV, If you don´t remove the middle shaft carrier it will make the trans "seem" stuck to the engine but its actually being held down by the middle shaft.
#17
Moderator
The harness need to be swapped because of the connector shape, AV6 Connector wont plug into the TL OE connector thus you need to swap the wiring harness from your TL trans into the AV6
That means you also have to swap the TRS from the TL to the AV6, its really simple.. The ATF Warmer in the AV6 is looking to the wrong side on the TL so the Anti-freeze tubes wont plug in, that is why you need to swap the ATF Warmer from your TL to the AV6 so its 100% bolt on.
That means you also have to swap the TRS from the TL to the AV6, its really simple.. The ATF Warmer in the AV6 is looking to the wrong side on the TL so the Anti-freeze tubes wont plug in, that is why you need to swap the ATF Warmer from your TL to the AV6 so its 100% bolt on.
#18
Instructor
A. Carreno, I just did this swap. It is very straightforward. Plus 1 on the middle shaft, definitely remove that lol. I didn't and it made my life hell until I did. The ATF warmer and harness swap will take you minutes to do.