Questions about motor mounts
#1
Questions about motor mounts
1. Which motor mounts are the best? I've read good things about XLR8, but I've also read that they cause the car to vibrate at idle. I can't stand any vibration
#2
I've also read about Innovative, but they also had some issues. Then I read that they fixed the issues; is this true? Also, do they suffer feom vibration? And of course, there's always the OEM and aftermarket OEM mounts, but I've read that they suck, too. How much mileage can I get out of the OEM / aftermarket replacements?
2. How difficult is it to replace the motor mounts? I'm not a gear head by any stretch of the imagination, but I figure I beter learn because the cost of ownership for my TL is gonna be insane if I have to keep paying for labor of replacing the mounts.
In terms of going to a mechanic, how many hours of labor is it to have the mounts replaced?
Thanks.
2. How difficult is it to replace the motor mounts? I'm not a gear head by any stretch of the imagination, but I figure I beter learn because the cost of ownership for my TL is gonna be insane if I have to keep paying for labor of replacing the mounts.
In terms of going to a mechanic, how many hours of labor is it to have the mounts replaced?
Thanks.
#3
Moderator
Poly filled mounts will only vibrate a little bit more than stock in the Street Strength 62.
From easiest to hardest to replace:
1.- Side Motor Mount = Piece of Cake! The Cruise Control motor will get in the way just un bolt it and set it aside. Replaced in less than 15 minutes. Mechanic Ability: (2/10)
2.- Front Motor Mount = Slightly difficult because of the radiator fans, with the right tools it can be replaced in less than 30 Minutes. Mechanic Ability: (4/10)
3.- Rear Motor Mount = DEATH TRAP!! Hardest SOB of the bunch, everything will get in you way and you'll get cut with things you don't even knew it existed in the car... Remove Sway Bar and expect to be moving from below and top of the engine bay. Usually it takes more than 1 hour to 2 and a half hours to replace this sucker... If you have the money pay someone else to endure this torture. Mechanic Ability: (10/10)
From easiest to hardest to replace:
1.- Side Motor Mount = Piece of Cake! The Cruise Control motor will get in the way just un bolt it and set it aside. Replaced in less than 15 minutes. Mechanic Ability: (2/10)
2.- Front Motor Mount = Slightly difficult because of the radiator fans, with the right tools it can be replaced in less than 30 Minutes. Mechanic Ability: (4/10)
3.- Rear Motor Mount = DEATH TRAP!! Hardest SOB of the bunch, everything will get in you way and you'll get cut with things you don't even knew it existed in the car... Remove Sway Bar and expect to be moving from below and top of the engine bay. Usually it takes more than 1 hour to 2 and a half hours to replace this sucker... If you have the money pay someone else to endure this torture. Mechanic Ability: (10/10)
Last edited by Skirmich; 09-07-2014 at 03:22 PM.
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AMart83 (09-07-2014)
#4
Thanks, Skirmich. Which brand of motor mounts do you recommend? I was looking at the polyfill technique but it seems like a mission. Maybe I'm overthinking it or maybe it wasn't written with beginners in mimd. Or both.
Anyway, based on your advice, I plan to do the side and front motor mount. I'll leave the rear mount to a mechanic.
Anyway, based on your advice, I plan to do the side and front motor mount. I'll leave the rear mount to a mechanic.
#5
Moderator
I actually Poly filled mine, it cost me like 15 bucks to fill all 3 and it feels solid...
If I were to use some branded mounts I would go with the poly filled XLR8 mounts.
Yah it's better to leave the rear to someone else! If your lucky you will get under quoted to change it! If he just clock 1 hour jump the wagon!!!! The dude doesn't know what he's getting into
If I were to use some branded mounts I would go with the poly filled XLR8 mounts.
Yah it's better to leave the rear to someone else! If your lucky you will get under quoted to change it! If he just clock 1 hour jump the wagon!!!! The dude doesn't know what he's getting into
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AMart83 (09-08-2014)
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#9
Moderator
Nope!! You poly fill only shot mounts as you have to actually fill the oil gap that leaks when the mount goes south.. In the case of the side mount you will have to get rid of the rubber part completely and replace it with poly.
I don't have pictures of the front and rear since I didn't do them all at the same time but here is the side mount poly filled:
I don't have pictures of the front and rear since I didn't do them all at the same time but here is the side mount poly filled:
Last edited by Skirmich; 09-08-2014 at 03:07 PM.
#10
If nobody has any objections, I guess the OEM mounts are the way to go.
#11
Yeah, check around your local auto parts stores and some online parts sources. Most of the aftermarket parts will work well and provide comparable service to OEM for less money. The big savings here is in "DIY" labor.
Check out the previous related threads and the DIY sticky for installation tips. While the rear mount is more difficult, ya may gain confidence after doing the others. It's all a matter of the right tools and patience.
Check out the previous related threads and the DIY sticky for installation tips. While the rear mount is more difficult, ya may gain confidence after doing the others. It's all a matter of the right tools and patience.
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AMart83 (09-08-2014)
#12
I was checking out rockauto.com and rhey have the engine mounts for real cheap. I'm kinda skeptical about it. Getting all 3 mounts would be around $100 compared to around $380 if I order from AcuraOEMParts.com.
What do you guys think of the brands that they have? oo good to be true?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,5552
What do you guys think of the brands that they have? oo good to be true?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,5552
#13
Rockauto has great prices on aftermarket parts.
Those are all decent brands and will perform well, saving ya some cash to help install the rear one.
Those are all decent brands and will perform well, saving ya some cash to help install the rear one.
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AMart83 (09-09-2014)
#14
So I'm going with Beck-Arnley for the front and rear since they're the only ones that apoear to have the vacuum ports:
Front: ($62): http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...351&cc=1410309
Rear ($84): http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...720&cc=1410309
I'm thinking of going with Beck-Arnley for the side mounts as well only to make it match (silly, I know). I'm gonna take a wild guess and aay that they list the side mount as "front right".
Side ($36): http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...994&cc=1410309
If there are no objections, I'll be placing the order. Waiting for feedback.
#17
Burning Brakes
Recommend you check the trans mounts as well...
I did an ebay kit $100 bucks for front, rear, side, and the 2 trans mounts: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2003-ACURA-TL-3-2L-MOTOR-TRANS-MOUNT-KIT-5PCS-same-day-fast-shipping-/280893521876?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2003%7CMake%3AAcura%7CModel%3ATL&hash=item41668effd4&vxp=mtr
Since you already ordered, I'd recommend checking the trans mounts to make sure they are still good. If not, replace.
I did an ebay kit $100 bucks for front, rear, side, and the 2 trans mounts: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2003-ACURA-TL-3-2L-MOTOR-TRANS-MOUNT-KIT-5PCS-same-day-fast-shipping-/280893521876?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2003%7CMake%3AAcura%7CModel%3ATL&hash=item41668effd4&vxp=mtr
Since you already ordered, I'd recommend checking the trans mounts to make sure they are still good. If not, replace.
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#18
Recommend you check the trans mounts as well...
I did an ebay kit $100 bucks for front, rear, side, and the 2 trans mounts: 1999 2003 Acura TL 3 2L Motor Trans Mount Kit 5pcs Same Day Fast Shipping | eBay
Since you already ordered, I'd recommend checking the trans mounts to make sure they are still good. If not, replace.
I did an ebay kit $100 bucks for front, rear, side, and the 2 trans mounts: 1999 2003 Acura TL 3 2L Motor Trans Mount Kit 5pcs Same Day Fast Shipping | eBay
Since you already ordered, I'd recommend checking the trans mounts to make sure they are still good. If not, replace.
#19
Recommend you check the trans mounts as well...
I did an ebay kit $100 bucks for front, rear, side, and the 2 trans mounts: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2003-ACURA-TL-3-2L-MOTOR-TRANS-MOUNT-KIT-5PCS-same-day-fast-shipping-/280893521876?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2003%7CMake%3AAcura%7CModel%3ATL&hash=item41668effd4&vxp=mtr
Since you already ordered, I'd recommend checking the trans mounts to make sure they are still good. If not, replace.
I did an ebay kit $100 bucks for front, rear, side, and the 2 trans mounts: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2003-ACURA-TL-3-2L-MOTOR-TRANS-MOUNT-KIT-5PCS-same-day-fast-shipping-/280893521876?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2003%7CMake%3AAcura%7CModel%3ATL&hash=item41668effd4&vxp=mtr
Since you already ordered, I'd recommend checking the trans mounts to make sure they are still good. If not, replace.
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AMart83 (09-11-2014)
#22
Moderator
I bought a tube in Home Depot.. I don't recall the brand but I remember it was a black tube with purple letters if that helps :/
One thing to notice is if you use a tube you better have a stupid strong tube gun! My normal tube guns bent over the strength needed to pour the polyurethane out of the tube.
I bought this just for that:
If I find the tube I will post a pic.
EDIT: Found the Tube!
It has a rated 65A in the strength meter.
One thing to notice is if you use a tube you better have a stupid strong tube gun! My normal tube guns bent over the strength needed to pour the polyurethane out of the tube.
I bought this just for that:
If I find the tube I will post a pic.
EDIT: Found the Tube!
It has a rated 65A in the strength meter.
Last edited by Skirmich; 09-11-2014 at 05:26 PM.
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AMart83 (09-11-2014)
#23
Moderator
Oh and about the counterweight I did install it back up.. But I suppose it doesn't do anything anymore XD.
Oh and FYI when you open the tube you better use it all up because it will start to dry up and fast.. I did 2 side mounts with a single tube and some was left off inside.. Then I bought a second tube to do Front and Rear Mounts which I didn't had a spare so my car had to sit still for 4 straight days.
I fkd up a side mount by just letting it dry 2 days bad move.. It collapsed... 4 days was the least I could do since F/R mounts don't require that much poly filling.. Side mount will take a lot more thus it requires more dry time.
The mount you see in the above pics (the no tube gun) one is still waiting to be installed basically the spare.. The ugly first try (the one beside the gun) is the one I have right now. Hit and miss I guess it's still rocking in the car.
Oh and FYI when you open the tube you better use it all up because it will start to dry up and fast.. I did 2 side mounts with a single tube and some was left off inside.. Then I bought a second tube to do Front and Rear Mounts which I didn't had a spare so my car had to sit still for 4 straight days.
I fkd up a side mount by just letting it dry 2 days bad move.. It collapsed... 4 days was the least I could do since F/R mounts don't require that much poly filling.. Side mount will take a lot more thus it requires more dry time.
The mount you see in the above pics (the no tube gun) one is still waiting to be installed basically the spare.. The ugly first try (the one beside the gun) is the one I have right now. Hit and miss I guess it's still rocking in the car.
Last edited by Skirmich; 09-11-2014 at 05:38 PM.
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AMart83 (09-11-2014)
#24
#26
Moderator
^^ A week is a bit of overkill IMO... Mine did collapsed with just 2 days but the 4 days one did fine (Which is the one I still have installed).
A week is more of a safeguard, The good thing about yours is that the new one is the spare so you can take your time.
A week is more of a safeguard, The good thing about yours is that the new one is the spare so you can take your time.
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AMart83 (09-11-2014)
#27
I would have to disagree on this. They will vibrate at idle much more than stock. Now my experience with oem vs a 62a mount is in a 20 yr old civic chassis where most everything vibrates. If your upgrading and looking at performance, then by all means upgrading to a 62a or stiffer is well worth it but sacrifices will be made in the comfort zone. If you have no real intention of performance more than bolt ons, I see it not worth it. The TL-S I have is a dd/work car so in my case, it's not worth it regardless if I have to replace mounts often.
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AMart83 (09-11-2014)
#28
Moderator
Basically the main reason to upgrade is because the TL eat up its mounts way too fast and the OEM Hydro units are expensive, Regardless of what the strength rating/use is a poly filled or poly mount will outlast the OEM by a mile Saving you money down the road unless you change OEM with 100 bucks Chinese brands.
I personally don't know anyone doing poly mounts in the 2G for Performance Upgrade. But the 62A doesn't vibrate that much, specially if you come from shot OEM mounts that already lost its oil is basically the same vibration in the 2G TL at idle.. Once moving there is no direct comparison they feel the same.
If your experience comes from a 20yr old civic then that is the issue.. My experience comes for having them in my TL as of right now for almost 2 years.
I personally don't know anyone doing poly mounts in the 2G for Performance Upgrade. But the 62A doesn't vibrate that much, specially if you come from shot OEM mounts that already lost its oil is basically the same vibration in the 2G TL at idle.. Once moving there is no direct comparison they feel the same.
If your experience comes from a 20yr old civic then that is the issue.. My experience comes for having them in my TL as of right now for almost 2 years.
Last edited by Skirmich; 09-11-2014 at 06:24 PM.
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AMart83 (09-11-2014)
#29
I decided to return the motor mounts and go with the ones that Nats posted. They have the vacuum port and a 5 year warranty. Nats had em installed close to a year now and he says they're still good and his car rides smoothly. With the kit, I'll also be able to replace my transmission mounts, so I save even more money.
#31
#32
Moderator
I'm sitting at 207K right now.. Sadly this year has been that active for the TL since I Bought my 2005 Grand Cherokee back in April (Birthday Gift with the HEMI!)usually put around 1K each month but some others had around 2K when I had to go back and forth to Yuma, AZ depending on work duties.
So probably have around 65 at least on the side and 35 on the F/R? I don't usually take notice on mileage with the mounts though I did a rough estimate as I change mounts when they die not based on the mileage.
So probably have around 65 at least on the side and 35 on the F/R? I don't usually take notice on mileage with the mounts though I did a rough estimate as I change mounts when they die not based on the mileage.
Last edited by Skirmich; 09-11-2014 at 07:30 PM.
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