CAB NY

The car will sit in the garage for 4-5 days without driving so the first time it happen i turned the key and didn't start so i turned the key back and try it again no problem a month or 2 later same thing I thought maybe from sitting and the cold weather it was nothing but yesterday I drove to the store parked for 5 minutes and it would not start any more after about 10min.of trying I went in the trunk and removed the fuel pump cover and tapped on it while someone started the car and after about 3 tries it started could this be a coincidence or the pump is going i changed it back in 06

Thanks

ErickUa5

Have you ever checked the Main Relay?
What pump was used ? oem or aftermarket

CAB NY

The relay I haven't checked but thought about that but sure what pump they used but most likely aftermarket

CAB NY

I do some long distance driving at time and don't want to get stuck somewhere far so I was thinking or change it just in case that is the problem or should i wait

ErickUa5

You can check the relay easily, its under the drivers side dash.
Heres a link to one of my post, you can use as a reference for locating the relay: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=900403&page=2
Information about it:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html
How to fix it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viIZ8k60awY

CAB NY

thanks i'll try and check it tomorrow also i had a 88 Accord and had to change the relay twice

3.2TLc

Yeah, check the relay first......cheaper and easier to replace than the fuel pump.
You may have an electrical problem, check the wiring connections and grounds.

The poor starting issue could also possibly be a faulty starter ?

Yikes

Also check the yellow wire going to the fuel pump. When you turn the key on and there is nothing at the wire, that means its not getting a signal.

You should check the main relay, but also check the electrical portion of the ignition switch.

Also, Honda OE fuel pumps rarely fail. Aftermarket ones, as I've heard, are far less reliable.

CAB NY

i checked under the dash but do anybody know exactly where its at and the now the car is starting with problem so now i have to wait until it happens again to check but i'm not trying to drive somewhere and get stuck but i take my chances

this is a aftermarket pump changed in 06

ErickUa5

Post #5 has the link to show you where it is.

CAB NY

it been a month a and the car was running fine drove all day today parked ran inside the house came out in ten minutes and started the car and it was running rough no real power when i stepped on the gas it would stutter like it was out of gas and this lasted about ten minutes then it just started running normal again could it be the fuel pump or i should look at a different problem

3.2TLc

Is the CEL on ? If so, have the codes read and post them here.
Check the fuel pressure and inspect FI wiring along with all the electrical grounds.

Have the EGR passageways been cleaned recently ?
Maybe a bad coil or relay is causing the problem.

CAB NY

No cel I wanted the car not to start while it's in the yard so I can try to see what the problem is I was going to just change the pump this weekend

03blackbeast

With how expensive and troublesome fuel pumps are to change out I'd check every other little thing before going to that. As said before, the pumps rarely go out on these cars. Relay is probably your culprit. It can be fixed by you for just pennies.

Skirmich

Clean IACV then check for Key Responder light in dash!
If it stays on then its bad = Change Key.

3.2TLc

Hey CAB NY......... Make sure that ya check all of the electrical components of the charging / starting systems before replacing the fuel pump. Inspect all of the wiring connections and grounds, then check for power at the pump with a meter. Could be a faulty relay.

CAB NY

It's still a little chilly so I ask the shop i know and they want 325 for the pump to change it I'll wait to it warms up but it's driving me crazy because I have no idea for sure the real problem is and I don't want to get stuck somewhere so for a100$ pump I was going to take a chance

ErickUa5

You do have an aftermarket fuel pump in there right ?
Get it pressure tested before replacing it.

Have you tried running the car without the engine cover ?
That helps with the hot start issue that some of us are facing with winter fuels.

Tosh

Have you ruled out the relay? Figure out where it is, and tap on it next time it acts up.

CAB NY

I thought relay because I had that problem on a Honda Accord twice in the past the reason I said the pump is because the last time it wouldn't start and I banged on the pump in the trunk and it started back up after a few bangs it could be a coincidence I don't know it's hard to find the problem because it's not consistent

Tosh

First assume it's the relay. Here's how to re-flow the solder joints and more about the many specific failure modes:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr....html#blueline
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...mainrelay.html

CAB NY

if the relay is bad will that make the car stutter too after it starts

CAB NY

Thanks took out the relay and all the connections look in place no cracks but could it still be the relay or look at the pump again

CAB NY

Put the relay back now it not start and it started before I took it out 15 minutes work I can hear it click when I turn the key

3.2TLc

Assuming that the relay is the original, and by coincidence .....having the present situation, it may very well be worth trying another different relay, IMO.

Skirmich

Since I didn't see any response regarding my suggestion.. Did you check that your key is being recognized?
I mean these are HONDAS and HONDAS don't like to have electrical issues what-so-ever..


Also fuel pumps rarely miss behave they just burn or work nothing in between.

CAB NY

New relay still won't start but when you turn the car off the green key flashes is that only when car was running or just on to off because i don't see it now I try two different keys also could I have done something when I removed the first relay I pulled it out checked it and right back in

Skirmich

The key flashes when you stop the engine to tell you the key is on the keyhole.. The key will flash when you go to ignition (II) and should go away, If it stays on then your key isn't recognized.

CAB NY

the key indicator on the dash is not displayed when the key is in the on position is it possible I disconnected something under the dash when I removed the relay or that was my problem the whole time

Skirmich

Perhaps.. If you get no flash at all something went south with the immobilizer system.

CAB NY

no light at all looking at different things I read the EFI relay can effect the immobilizer any truth don't know but can't find anything on the light not coming on only blinking

Skirmich

Yeah the light completely dead is something to look out for since it can and it will make your fuel pump remain dead which can make you think its something else...


In all my time with my TL only 1 did my key fail, and it was funny because my very first thought was "Oh damn my fuel pump died" but nope only until I realized my Little key light on the dash stayed on for far too long I went to my manual and read about the immobilizer system... Programed a new key = Bam! car worked flawlessly.

CAB NY

i tried 2 different keys same problem funny thing is the car was starting before i changed the relay and that took 15 minutes also i put the old one back same thing nothing

ErickUa5

Question, Does the check engine light come on when the key is in position II ?
If not the ecu is not getting power or a got bad ground.

CAB NY

just checked and no CEL on

ErickUa5

If you didn't see it on at all then I suspect an issue with the ecu wiring or fuse, Have a look at the main ecu ground on the thermostat housing see if its loose or corroded.
Its bolted down by a 10mm

CAB NY

thanks i'll check it tomorrow its raining hard now

3.2TLc

Hey CAB NY, if when attempting to start the motor and all ya get is a single click.....it may be that ya have poor electrical connections from the battery to the starter. Check the ground wire from the battery to the tranny housing and the starter's wiring connector.

Another thing with random starting issues could be that the starter has a dead spot or the solenoid is bad. Have ya tried jump starting the car when it doesn't want to start ? Ya also could carefully try supplying 12V directly to the starter, bypassing all the switches and interlock controls. be careful !!!

CAB NY

the car starts fine it just wont turn over the immobilizer indicator and check engine light will not display after changing the relay

CAB NY

this time i pulled all the fuses it was the ACG under the hood it looked intact but i changed it anyway now that's fixed but the original problem still there before i was getting no start on the first try then this week the car would feel like its out of gas then run fine now that i got it running its doing the same thing stuttering on idle then fine or when i step on the gas so possible dirty filter or bad pump maybe