Please Help, 99TL's tempeture is fluctuating and lightly overheating, for now.
10-16-2011, 05:39 PM
#41
so now both fans DO work?
but the driver fan operates for several minutes after shutdown--
do I have `my which car has which prob` straight?
you replaced the fan sensor as directed?
seafoam can be done in the gas (intake manifold too) anytime and has no relation to the oil method before you change oil
Still able to clean the rest of the internals--
once we find out about any wear inside with the oil analysis!!
there is a torque spec on every single bolt on the car- I dont have the valve cover ones
look in the 105 diy or find one that doesnt move whe you place the socket and ratchet on it,, feel the resistance it gives- now ck the others
place your hand directly on top of the ratchet- not out on the handle- that limits your ability to overtighten~
but the driver fan operates for several minutes after shutdown--
do I have `my which car has which prob` straight?
you replaced the fan sensor as directed?
seafoam can be done in the gas (intake manifold too) anytime and has no relation to the oil method before you change oil
Still able to clean the rest of the internals--
once we find out about any wear inside with the oil analysis!!
there is a torque spec on every single bolt on the car- I dont have the valve cover ones
look in the 105 diy or find one that doesnt move whe you place the socket and ratchet on it,, feel the resistance it gives- now ck the others
place your hand directly on top of the ratchet- not out on the handle- that limits your ability to overtighten~
10-16-2011, 05:55 PM
#42
with the strange temp swings now reported, I am beginning to suspect the thermostat
Its certainly possible thats responsible- once the fans are known `in correct operation`
and not a very expensive part--get one at honda, not aftermarket on this part
easy DIY-- right there on top with your 99
still need to ck under the water pump-= even replaced ones can fail
Its certainly possible thats responsible- once the fans are known `in correct operation`
and not a very expensive part--get one at honda, not aftermarket on this part
easy DIY-- right there on top with your 99
still need to ck under the water pump-= even replaced ones can fail
10-16-2011, 08:09 PM
#43
The problem is still the same you don't have it mixed up. The other day you told me to check which fans turned on with AC on and off and they both turned on with AC but the fan does run long after the car is off , I think when I mentioned it to you said that it was still the fan sensor because it ran about 15 min after the car was off.
I just replaced the Fan Sensor, I wasn't sure which one and accidentally loosened the one in the square in the picture but while starting to pull it out i heard liquid fall out and I immediately put it back and tightened it, the size of the socket was bigger too so that should have been a tell. I put that back and replaced the one circled in the picture. I wanna make sure that the circled one is right and that now since I opened the other one and liquid came out that I don't have to purge the system coolant and something like that, do I?
I just replaced the Fan Sensor, I wasn't sure which one and accidentally loosened the one in the square in the picture but while starting to pull it out i heard liquid fall out and I immediately put it back and tightened it, the size of the socket was bigger too so that should have been a tell. I put that back and replaced the one circled in the picture. I wanna make sure that the circled one is right and that now since I opened the other one and liquid came out that I don't have to purge the system coolant and something like that, do I?
10-16-2011, 08:54 PM
#44
For the life of me I cannot find the PCV Valve, I have looked in the forums here , any picture links are dead , online and read descriptions of it's location but I just don't see it. Do you have a link or something with a picture or diagram?
10-16-2011, 11:34 PM
#45
OH JOY, FINALLY found the PVC it is a bit hidden for the first time finding it but not if you know. So as long as the pics above are correct I hope I properly replaced the correct fan sensor and now the PCV valve. Did not have time to clean but will, did not find my socket for the bolts on the valve cover but will. That would do it for the cold items and will move on toe the hot items hopefully tomorrow.
Please let me know if what I posted a couple posts up is correct. I really appreciate your help 01TL4Tl, so Thank You
Please let me know if what I posted a couple posts up is correct. I really appreciate your help 01TL4Tl, so Thank You
10-17-2011, 01:39 AM
#46
I am worried about the sensor I changed, I have not driven my car for this reason, PLease help me out I will have to drive my car @7am PST. I do not know if the sensor in the red square above that I accidentally removed introduced air into my cooling system, some coolant fell out when I loosened it. I have read in other posts here that if you do servise on the cooling system you should purge it because of air and that it would cause your car to over heat for that reason alone not to mention whatever else I have to deal with.
Also please let me know if the sensor in the red circle above was the right one to replace.
Recap: Red Square=removed but put back after some fluid fell out
Red Circle = sensor I believe is fan sensor & the 1 I replaced
Very worried about red square that because I opened it, the car may have issues without proper purge or whatever.
PLEASE let me know as soon as possible, will get up early in case you let me know there is something I have to do in the morning before I can safely drive off and start the day.
Thankyou
Also please let me know if the sensor in the red circle above was the right one to replace.
Recap: Red Square=removed but put back after some fluid fell out
Red Circle = sensor I believe is fan sensor & the 1 I replaced
Very worried about red square that because I opened it, the car may have issues without proper purge or whatever.
PLEASE let me know as soon as possible, will get up early in case you let me know there is something I have to do in the morning before I can safely drive off and start the day.
Thankyou
10-17-2011, 10:23 AM
#47
dont sweat it- normally I would say to burp the system--not purge~
simple as running it without the cap and a few minutes of 2000 rpm - till fan cycles
and some time at idle until the fan has gone on and off a few times (cycles)
that makes sure the coolant is flowing and any small amount of air from this job
will be moved thru and out the cap opening
for you- it may pull a tiny amount of coolant from the res bottle
ck both levels before you drive back home later
How does the driver fan work now?
simple as running it without the cap and a few minutes of 2000 rpm - till fan cycles
and some time at idle until the fan has gone on and off a few times (cycles)
that makes sure the coolant is flowing and any small amount of air from this job
will be moved thru and out the cap opening
for you- it may pull a tiny amount of coolant from the res bottle
ck both levels before you drive back home later
How does the driver fan work now?
10-17-2011, 10:25 AM
#48
was the PCV clogged or slow movement compared to the new one?
10-17-2011, 05:40 PM
#49
I apologize for the multiple messages , for some reason my browser does not load the messages the time they come out, I am on a mobile browser and it seems to be not fully compatible with the site. I received your private message but this page did not load your thread responses until around noon on my device so some of my questions are answered already but I don't know until later.
Below are pics from the PCV, it looks dirty and did not quite move as loudly or freely as the new one I purchased so that must be a benficial replacement.
The car has definitely not gone all the way down to 1/4 on the temp gauge, the furthest I would say is about 3/8th's that it went down to and then back up to a smidgen below half like normal.
Drove 20 miles home in about 82 degree's and no problems.
Then got home and left again to test AC waited 20 min or so before I left again, the total trip was about 6 miles or so with the AC on the whole time. More than half of it was stop and go city driving and the rest freeway speeds. There was no incident and the temp stayed normal. It was not the most rigorous test, it was only 82 outside, nothing compared to a triple digit day but again no incident not that I ever did at that temp with the AC on but still a welcome reaction from the car.
The one incident was after that AC 6 mile 20min drive I got home to time the fan after. You said at normal driving 1 to 2 minutes afterwards. I don't know if with AC it is longer but 1 min after I shut the car off the fan went on and stayed on for about 11 minutes or so. Don't know what that means. Thermostat, WP or normal ? The fluid levels are still good and the rad is full to the top.
While writing this went out side to test the fans, turned the car on and let it idle and no fans went on for about 5 or 6 mins and both went on at that point for no more than 30 40 seconds or so and then a minute or 2 later they both went on again for about 20 seconds. Then a couple min after I turned the AC on and they both went on immediately so after that, turned the car off and came to finish this post.
I hope this helps you narrow it down. Seems good but I could not know for sure but aside from that today, that slight burn smell I used to smell really is not around anymore. The engine bay kinda just smell like a hot motor now. I smelt a hint of it for a second or two but faint and then not any more.
Thanks for getting back to me earlier I was pretty worried about the air in my system.
Below are pics from the PCV, it looks dirty and did not quite move as loudly or freely as the new one I purchased so that must be a benficial replacement.
The car has definitely not gone all the way down to 1/4 on the temp gauge, the furthest I would say is about 3/8th's that it went down to and then back up to a smidgen below half like normal.
Drove 20 miles home in about 82 degree's and no problems.
Then got home and left again to test AC waited 20 min or so before I left again, the total trip was about 6 miles or so with the AC on the whole time. More than half of it was stop and go city driving and the rest freeway speeds. There was no incident and the temp stayed normal. It was not the most rigorous test, it was only 82 outside, nothing compared to a triple digit day but again no incident not that I ever did at that temp with the AC on but still a welcome reaction from the car.
The one incident was after that AC 6 mile 20min drive I got home to time the fan after. You said at normal driving 1 to 2 minutes afterwards. I don't know if with AC it is longer but 1 min after I shut the car off the fan went on and stayed on for about 11 minutes or so. Don't know what that means. Thermostat, WP or normal ? The fluid levels are still good and the rad is full to the top.
While writing this went out side to test the fans, turned the car on and let it idle and no fans went on for about 5 or 6 mins and both went on at that point for no more than 30 40 seconds or so and then a minute or 2 later they both went on again for about 20 seconds. Then a couple min after I turned the AC on and they both went on immediately so after that, turned the car off and came to finish this post.
I hope this helps you narrow it down. Seems good but I could not know for sure but aside from that today, that slight burn smell I used to smell really is not around anymore. The engine bay kinda just smell like a hot motor now. I smelt a hint of it for a second or two but faint and then not any more.
Thanks for getting back to me earlier I was pretty worried about the air in my system.
Last edited by lojik; 10-17-2011 at 05:45 PM.
10-17-2011, 09:18 PM
#50
there is still something very wrong
the temp should come up to 1-2 clicks below half in a few minutes driving
then STAY there thru all day drive- running errands, ac on or off, 100 degrees outside, going up the mountain to reno thru 7000 feet on a 3 hour trip...
and the fans will operate but the temp never wavers
your `both fans running with ac OFF` is usually when it senses an overheat condition and operates both fans to help out
For fun: do an ECU reset- you never know- pull the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash
Had the rad cap ckd yet?
your symptoms get stranger with each test drive!!
Gurus- what did he actually replace? I dont know 99s and have not replaced that or thermostat on the 01
the temp should come up to 1-2 clicks below half in a few minutes driving
then STAY there thru all day drive- running errands, ac on or off, 100 degrees outside, going up the mountain to reno thru 7000 feet on a 3 hour trip...
and the fans will operate but the temp never wavers
your `both fans running with ac OFF` is usually when it senses an overheat condition and operates both fans to help out
For fun: do an ECU reset- you never know- pull the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash
Had the rad cap ckd yet?
your symptoms get stranger with each test drive!!
Gurus- what did he actually replace? I dont know 99s and have not replaced that or thermostat on the 01
10-17-2011, 09:23 PM
#51
that PCV was ready for replacement for sure!
should ease some over-pressure related oil leaks too- hopefully
pressure builds up in the lower end of the engine and gets vented back into the TB to be reburned
When the valve doesnt open all the way or at all--the pressure can and will push itself,, and some oil that was in the way, out any easy exit~
often valve covers or engine rear main seal are at risk
think I will go buy a new PCV for my baby
in the old days we replaced it every year- engines had more blowby then
should ease some over-pressure related oil leaks too- hopefully
pressure builds up in the lower end of the engine and gets vented back into the TB to be reburned
When the valve doesnt open all the way or at all--the pressure can and will push itself,, and some oil that was in the way, out any easy exit~
often valve covers or engine rear main seal are at risk
think I will go buy a new PCV for my baby
in the old days we replaced it every year- engines had more blowby then
10-17-2011, 09:30 PM
#52
Autozone does not check Rad caps im my area or state. I found a receipt that says I changed the rad cap Febuary,2010. If necessary I can just get a new one if you think it's serious.
Once I reset my ecu I should attempt the car on at idle and see when fans turn on?
Thermostat is not an issue in your opinion? For sure tomorrow I will clean and look at the WP along with an oil change.
Right now I am going outside to reset the ecu and see when the fan turns on after the reset at idle. I will be back in a few minutes to report.
Once I reset my ecu I should attempt the car on at idle and see when fans turn on?
Thermostat is not an issue in your opinion? For sure tomorrow I will clean and look at the WP along with an oil change.
Right now I am going outside to reset the ecu and see when the fan turns on after the reset at idle. I will be back in a few minutes to report.
10-17-2011, 10:00 PM
#53
Just did the reset , pulled fuse out for a mun maybe 2 and then put back and turned on. Fans turned on in about 5 to 7 min. both and it lasted about 15 to 20 seconds the first time a min or 2 later both turned on for maybe 10 seconds and a min or 2 later again for another 10 sec or so. Car remained at the same temp the whole time.
Could it be that since the second fan is running that is what causes the cooler running temp at times?
I just am back to post this and before I left the car I pulled the clock fuse again so that is is off longer and will try again. Any thoughts, did I have the fuse off too little, dual fans don't induce any other thoughts?
Another possibility, Aug or Sep of last year I replaced the Radiator, could it be that when they replaced it and did all of their flushes and re-connections that maybe they made a mistake, is it even possible for this long after to be running OK if that was the case, how would I know? Stranger Symptoms as you say def worry me.
Could it be that since the second fan is running that is what causes the cooler running temp at times?
I just am back to post this and before I left the car I pulled the clock fuse again so that is is off longer and will try again. Any thoughts, did I have the fuse off too little, dual fans don't induce any other thoughts?
Another possibility, Aug or Sep of last year I replaced the Radiator, could it be that when they replaced it and did all of their flushes and re-connections that maybe they made a mistake, is it even possible for this long after to be running OK if that was the case, how would I know? Stranger Symptoms as you say def worry me.
10-17-2011, 10:53 PM
#54
OK just put the clock fuse back in after at least a half hour of being off(more than enough time to reset) and the fans still ran simultaneously. So nothing changed with the reset of the ECU.
10-18-2011, 10:56 AM
#56
he must live in some bizzare place if zone wont test his rad cap- probably dont have the loaner pressure tester either
radiator was replaced 2 years ago, rad cap was replaced a year ago
and OP reports odd temp prob over last 2 years
Im going to guess it had some serious overheat issues, never had coolant changed which caused radiator failure
At that time, the tech may have plugged the sensors into wrong harness or some other weird thing
both fans do not operate at cold temps, or even normal temps when ac is OFF
something is giving a bad signal
since rad and cap were replaced, I would do the thermostat- based on guess about why rad replaced = bad things happened to the thermostat,, and its correct operation is critical
radiator was replaced 2 years ago, rad cap was replaced a year ago
and OP reports odd temp prob over last 2 years
Im going to guess it had some serious overheat issues, never had coolant changed which caused radiator failure
At that time, the tech may have plugged the sensors into wrong harness or some other weird thing
both fans do not operate at cold temps, or even normal temps when ac is OFF
something is giving a bad signal
since rad and cap were replaced, I would do the thermostat- based on guess about why rad replaced = bad things happened to the thermostat,, and its correct operation is critical
10-18-2011, 10:59 AM
#57
before doing thermo-
pressure test of system and inspection of water pump needs to be done
Have to know if thats ok before digging and guessing too much
try another parts store and ask for the loaner pressure tester, you leave a depost and return tool -get depost back
have you tried burping the system per the book method?
ck for exact details,,,heater on full hot, engine running without rad cap- idle till fan, 2000 rpm till fan etc
just to be sure there is not an air pocket faking out the sensor
pressure test of system and inspection of water pump needs to be done
Have to know if thats ok before digging and guessing too much
try another parts store and ask for the loaner pressure tester, you leave a depost and return tool -get depost back
have you tried burping the system per the book method?
ck for exact details,,,heater on full hot, engine running without rad cap- idle till fan, 2000 rpm till fan etc
just to be sure there is not an air pocket faking out the sensor
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 10-18-2011 at 11:03 AM.
10-19-2011, 12:44 AM
#59
OP had enough trouble changing a fan sensor
lets run a few simple standard test before touching any bolts!!
for all we know right now- it needed a rad from crudding up 2 years ago, had ongoing/repeated strange temp and running hot issues since then,,,possible fans wored wrong- not running correctly
and the wp wasnt replaced?,(unknown) or it was so far overdue,,who knows what else has occured
I do think the thermo is involved, but proper diagnostic calls for looking at pressure test for hose leaks etc. and a few other cks before digging in
lets run a few simple standard test before touching any bolts!!
for all we know right now- it needed a rad from crudding up 2 years ago, had ongoing/repeated strange temp and running hot issues since then,,,possible fans wored wrong- not running correctly
and the wp wasnt replaced?,(unknown) or it was so far overdue,,who knows what else has occured
I do think the thermo is involved, but proper diagnostic calls for looking at pressure test for hose leaks etc. and a few other cks before digging in
10-19-2011, 12:46 AM
#60
is a genuine honda thermo only 12 bucks, I would have guessed 17 at dealer
Use OE on this part to be safe
Use OE on this part to be safe
10-19-2011, 02:57 AM
#61
WP was changed 97% sure, I am gonna find an auto store that will loan me a pressure tester for my coolant/radiator. Got some G-Oil and will also do the oil change and WP inspection with that. Would have no problem changing my Thermo as long as I know how.
My other concern is the wiring of my fans and radiator since they run simultaneously , had no time to plug and play with them today and see if the car overheats when I unplug the smaller passenger fan. Really want to do all those little things (crossing my fingers on the water pump) but It sounds like no matter what I do and what I change unless the wiring is simply wrong, I won't now if there is anything wrong unless I send a sample to Blackstone. Ordered my test kit today so we'll see I guess.
My other concern is the wiring of my fans and radiator since they run simultaneously , had no time to plug and play with them today and see if the car overheats when I unplug the smaller passenger fan. Really want to do all those little things (crossing my fingers on the water pump) but It sounds like no matter what I do and what I change unless the wiring is simply wrong, I won't now if there is anything wrong unless I send a sample to Blackstone. Ordered my test kit today so we'll see I guess.
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