Please Help, 99TL's tempeture is fluctuating and lightly overheating, for now.
10-13-2011, 03:06 AM
#1
Please Help, 99TL's tempeture is fluctuating and lightly overheating, for now.
My 99TL went past the half-way point of the temp gauge today and my AC was not even on. It was about 99-101 degrees but still I think it cannot be normal. In the last 2 years in the really hot Summer days when the AC has been on the cars temp had gotten really hot on some over 100 degree days to like 3/4 of the gauge. The first time it happened it scared the begeezes out of me because I wasn't even on a hill or anything and instantly pulled over. Got it towed to my mechanic and he said that it was normal on days like those and should turn my AC off. Did not believe him but my car didn't over heat again so I was like whatever. I do not use him anymore because I now do what I can myself based on the amazing help from here. But for the last few years since on really hot days my car with the AC on would over heat and I would simply turn it off and while driving the temp would return to normal. It became normal to me even though I always have my suspicions that something is off. The car has right under 150k miles, have never done seafoam , only did the egr cleaning once and that was huge help power wise and sure it feels like it would use huge boost from seafoam if what I read about it is correct.
I posted this On here the other day looking for possibilities and unfortunately got no responses
99 Tl Smoke coming from right front side
10-09-2011, 12:45 PM
Hi guys, I am having some smoke come out of the front right side of the car. It is cold now obviously and it was about low 50's or so so if you breathe you can see condensation come out of your mouth. That being said I thought maybe it is cold and the heat is causing the vapor/smoke. I let it go and it happened again, I was careful and watched my temp and no over heating but the thing is I see it in the night mainly because my lights are on so I can see it easier. I drive for 10 min and nothing get off come back and another 10 or 15 and when I get home I see it again. It smells like burnt something with a mix maybe of like evaporating coolant, I really don't know. I opened the hood to see it's origins then its gone and I see no trace or smell of it either. It is def not coming from the wheel well for sure. Maybe someone has an Idea based on it's location of possible causes? I would really appreciate some help, I am worried it will escalate and I want to address it while in it's infancy. Thanks
So that was about 3 days ago and today. Like I said above my car actually went up beyond the half-way point closer to 3/4's or so but still below that point. That really scared me because I did not have the AC on at all. I did begin about a month and a half ago a new daily schedule that has me driving 3 to 4 times more so the car may have it's reasons but never the less no AC and no clear reason other than it just being a hot day. I am about 1200 miles past the 3000 that are recommended for the oil change but again , I don't think that is enough to cause it.
On my hood in the sides in the little opening above the lights I got close to smell any irregularities and only on the left side do I smell that smell I described above as burn with like evaporated coolant. My coolanyt levels appear to be fine.
Was there some service I could done or performed some maintenance that would prevent this, maybe switch to synthetic oil. Please help I am worried it is something huge. I am past believing that this is normal behavior on a hot day. I live in L.A. and have driven to Vegas on the 15 on super hot days in other vehicles with AC for long stretches and no problem, there has to be something going on here.
Thanks for reading, sorry it is so long but that's the whole back story, figured it's all relevant.
I posted this On here the other day looking for possibilities and unfortunately got no responses
99 Tl Smoke coming from right front side
10-09-2011, 12:45 PM
Hi guys, I am having some smoke come out of the front right side of the car. It is cold now obviously and it was about low 50's or so so if you breathe you can see condensation come out of your mouth. That being said I thought maybe it is cold and the heat is causing the vapor/smoke. I let it go and it happened again, I was careful and watched my temp and no over heating but the thing is I see it in the night mainly because my lights are on so I can see it easier. I drive for 10 min and nothing get off come back and another 10 or 15 and when I get home I see it again. It smells like burnt something with a mix maybe of like evaporating coolant, I really don't know. I opened the hood to see it's origins then its gone and I see no trace or smell of it either. It is def not coming from the wheel well for sure. Maybe someone has an Idea based on it's location of possible causes? I would really appreciate some help, I am worried it will escalate and I want to address it while in it's infancy. Thanks
So that was about 3 days ago and today. Like I said above my car actually went up beyond the half-way point closer to 3/4's or so but still below that point. That really scared me because I did not have the AC on at all. I did begin about a month and a half ago a new daily schedule that has me driving 3 to 4 times more so the car may have it's reasons but never the less no AC and no clear reason other than it just being a hot day. I am about 1200 miles past the 3000 that are recommended for the oil change but again , I don't think that is enough to cause it.
On my hood in the sides in the little opening above the lights I got close to smell any irregularities and only on the left side do I smell that smell I described above as burn with like evaporated coolant. My coolanyt levels appear to be fine.
Was there some service I could done or performed some maintenance that would prevent this, maybe switch to synthetic oil. Please help I am worried it is something huge. I am past believing that this is normal behavior on a hot day. I live in L.A. and have driven to Vegas on the 15 on super hot days in other vehicles with AC for long stretches and no problem, there has to be something going on here.
Thanks for reading, sorry it is so long but that's the whole back story, figured it's all relevant.
10-13-2011, 06:56 AM
#2
Drifting
I would go get a coolant syst. pressure tester & pressurize your radiator then look ffor leaks. You can get them @ AZ for a deposit that will be returned when you return the tool. I don't recall what the press. spec. is but somebody on here will probl. chime in or I can look in the manual later.
Be sure to let the engine cool off completely before you remove the rad. cap to do this. Good luck.
Be sure to let the engine cool off completely before you remove the rad. cap to do this. Good luck.
10-13-2011, 08:52 AM
#3
Team Owner
iTrader: (4)
Does the temp go up when your at a stop, then down when your moving..Most likely your fan motor.
10-13-2011, 09:32 AM
#6
lets clear up the fan operations once again
driver side fan operates as needed for a minute or so- like when sitting in traffic-long light
Driver sider also operates with ac ON
passenger side fan operates with AC ON
BOTH fans must be ON with ac running
If driver side fan runs more than 1-2 minutes after shutdown with normal temp -
you have a bad fan sensor, probably not running when needed.. and too long after
If a fan doesnt spin easily by hand, its a bad motor
You can use power from opposite fan to test each other
water pump was replaced at 105?
NO loss of coolant from rad and res bottle is in the middle?- good looking fluid in it ?
and the rubber hose inside the res cap is firmly attached?
driver side fan operates as needed for a minute or so- like when sitting in traffic-long light
Driver sider also operates with ac ON
passenger side fan operates with AC ON
BOTH fans must be ON with ac running
If driver side fan runs more than 1-2 minutes after shutdown with normal temp -
you have a bad fan sensor, probably not running when needed.. and too long after
If a fan doesnt spin easily by hand, its a bad motor
You can use power from opposite fan to test each other
water pump was replaced at 105?
NO loss of coolant from rad and res bottle is in the middle?- good looking fluid in it ?
and the rubber hose inside the res cap is firmly attached?
10-13-2011, 10:36 AM
#7
Nice talking to you again 01tl4tl, thanks for chiming in here.
I really can't say I remember for sure but I am like above 90% sure that I replaced the water pump. Looked at the coolant right now and the hoses look fine and on right with no play or moisture. The coolant itself is on the dark side but it is blue originally so some deep color is expected but it is not dirty dark or anything like that if that's what you meant.
I'm at the first location of my day and I drove about 15 miles to get here and the fan was already off withing a couple of minutes of my arrival. Checked the fan resistance by hand and while the larger driver side one feels a bit more free flowing that the smaller one they both moved relatively easy and smooth when I spun them by hand.
I really can't say I remember for sure but I am like above 90% sure that I replaced the water pump. Looked at the coolant right now and the hoses look fine and on right with no play or moisture. The coolant itself is on the dark side but it is blue originally so some deep color is expected but it is not dirty dark or anything like that if that's what you meant.
I'm at the first location of my day and I drove about 15 miles to get here and the fan was already off withing a couple of minutes of my arrival. Checked the fan resistance by hand and while the larger driver side one feels a bit more free flowing that the smaller one they both moved relatively easy and smooth when I spun them by hand.
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10-13-2011, 11:03 AM
#9
Team Owner
iTrader: (4)
Your fan motor can still be working, but on the way out at the same time. Open your hood and turn the car on. Now watch driver side fan (left side). When it kicks on after a minute or so does it seem to not be blowing very hard? Does it come on at all?
I have a good feeling its the motor.
I have a good feeling its the motor.
10-13-2011, 11:33 AM
#10
Just turned the car on and opened the hood. The fan went on about 5 6 minutes afterwards. When it went on the power of the air felt strong(super hot, don,t know how those fans work with such hot air) but nevertheless it did not feel weak.
10-13-2011, 04:39 PM
#11
Another development, I just drove back home no AC 15 miles or so in 101 degree weather again. Most of the way back except for a small blip 1 mile before my arrival I did hit a tiny slope I had to extra accelerate and a few seconds later the temp did pass half just barely but went back down to normal.
Got home and was there for 15 minutes, when I came out to leave again the larger driver side fan was still on, the whole time i'm guessing and tuned off right before I got in to leave. When I left and was driving to my next destination the car was at normal temp (a tiny fraction below half). But for a minute or two the temp went down to colder than normal hovering above 3/8th clearly below the halfway point. Then the next minute it was on the high side of the half way point a slight tiny tiny fraction above the half way point barely noticeable but noticeable. The running cool also happened in the morning on a quick 5 min run I made, meaning was normal hot(half way or so) and then went to above 3/8th and then back to half.
These occurrences have to be systematic of something, some kind of known possibility. Maybe like 01tl4tl said a fan sensor that is misreading. Do these symtoms verify that it is the sensor? If so what is a sure fire way to test it?
Please help I fear it will escalate and become a huge problem if not attended to. Thanks
Got home and was there for 15 minutes, when I came out to leave again the larger driver side fan was still on, the whole time i'm guessing and tuned off right before I got in to leave. When I left and was driving to my next destination the car was at normal temp (a tiny fraction below half). But for a minute or two the temp went down to colder than normal hovering above 3/8th clearly below the halfway point. Then the next minute it was on the high side of the half way point a slight tiny tiny fraction above the half way point barely noticeable but noticeable. The running cool also happened in the morning on a quick 5 min run I made, meaning was normal hot(half way or so) and then went to above 3/8th and then back to half.
These occurrences have to be systematic of something, some kind of known possibility. Maybe like 01tl4tl said a fan sensor that is misreading. Do these symtoms verify that it is the sensor? If so what is a sure fire way to test it?
Please help I fear it will escalate and become a huge problem if not attended to. Thanks
10-13-2011, 05:41 PM
#12
its a fan sensor AND another problem thats causing the major temp swings
Did you ck the fan op with and without ac?
on what the other prob may be:
the choices are water pump- ck under it with a mirror or under car - has a `weep hole` where small amount of coolant is expelled and stains the area with a trail
Thats when its internal seal goes- the weep hole tells you so
the wp and coolant get done with the timing belt, (scheduled at 105kmiles/7years but most go beyond that)
Its a LARGE expense, $1000+,,several hours of billable labor and $250-350+ in parts (average-depends on oe or aftermarket)
or a major diy that you would remember having performed
a 2$ tester at parts stores will confirm coolants abilty to operate- give you an idea of its age 5 years should be considered max, book gives 7 on OE then 5 after that
additives break down and turn acidic,,
notice any aluminum near the coolant? oh its whole container you say?
Also looking for brown foam from oil in coolant- and same in oil on dipstick,,look for rising level on oil dipstick--without adding oil..thats water entering the oil system from
option B: a blown head gasket and/or cracked head
enough overheat events- not even redline temps,,will do the TL head gasket in.
Aluminum heads dont like funky heat and often warp- require resurfacing them
At that point, get a junkyard motor and drop it in,,there will be other internal heat probs following the old engine
Did you ck the fan op with and without ac?
on what the other prob may be:
the choices are water pump- ck under it with a mirror or under car - has a `weep hole` where small amount of coolant is expelled and stains the area with a trail
Thats when its internal seal goes- the weep hole tells you so
the wp and coolant get done with the timing belt, (scheduled at 105kmiles/7years but most go beyond that)
Its a LARGE expense, $1000+,,several hours of billable labor and $250-350+ in parts (average-depends on oe or aftermarket)
or a major diy that you would remember having performed
a 2$ tester at parts stores will confirm coolants abilty to operate- give you an idea of its age 5 years should be considered max, book gives 7 on OE then 5 after that
additives break down and turn acidic,,
notice any aluminum near the coolant? oh its whole container you say?
Also looking for brown foam from oil in coolant- and same in oil on dipstick,,look for rising level on oil dipstick--without adding oil..thats water entering the oil system from
option B: a blown head gasket and/or cracked head
enough overheat events- not even redline temps,,will do the TL head gasket in.
Aluminum heads dont like funky heat and often warp- require resurfacing them
At that point, get a junkyard motor and drop it in,,there will be other internal heat probs following the old engine
10-13-2011, 05:45 PM
#13
the sure fire way to know its a fan sensor = it runs several minutes after shutdown
your 99 has an easy to reach fan sensor right next to the thermostat, on top of the engine
call the local name brand or import car parts store, ask for a fan temp sensor., that operates the main fan
they will know what you mean
your 99 has an easy to reach fan sensor right next to the thermostat, on top of the engine
call the local name brand or import car parts store, ask for a fan temp sensor., that operates the main fan
they will know what you mean
10-13-2011, 07:16 PM
#14
Ok , 15 minutes after is pretty definitive then . Do the rest of the symptoms mentioned also fall into the Fan sensor misreading? Or is it still possible something else is still wrong?
10-13-2011, 08:31 PM
#15
would all of that particularly cause the overheating while the AC is on. I was already gonna post about the AC/Overheating while it's on before this happened so now that this happened I put it all since it was one in the same so to speak. Will the Fan Sensor presumably fix that problem also?
10-13-2011, 10:48 PM
#17
sounds like for 2 years or so you have been driving around with a primary cooing fan that doesnt operate when its supposed to
get an oil analysis from blackstone labs, $20 to see if bad things are happening inside
main fan not working with ac will result in hot running
both fans pull hot air from the `radiator` for the 2 systems
one fan is not doing enough to cool engine and the added heat thru the ac condensor - conveniently located right in front of the engine radiator!
get an oil analysis from blackstone labs, $20 to see if bad things are happening inside
main fan not working with ac will result in hot running
both fans pull hot air from the `radiator` for the 2 systems
one fan is not doing enough to cool engine and the added heat thru the ac condensor - conveniently located right in front of the engine radiator!
10-14-2011, 12:26 AM
#18
WOW 01TL4TL, That is one scary prognosis, hopefully it is the fan only and that no real damage has been done. If there is it doesn't really seem like a DIY. Have not had a chance to check those things but admittedly I am a bit scared to find out. I guess tomorrow is D-Day. I don't know if I should be taking solace in the fact that I somehow think that since there are times when I have no issues that maybe the worst is out of the question but ..... we'll see what can I do?
For sure the Fan sensor needs to be replaced it sounds like(the big driverside one I believe you said) so I will and then I guess make sure that the WP is not leaking and go from there to Blackstone. That will tell me if my head gasket is no good or that brown foam you mentioned?
I looked at the Blackstone labs website, is the standard analysis the one I need to give me the answers I need? I see they have many tests.
Thanks for your help, hopefully I will have some not so bad news to report tomorrow. Have a good night.
For sure the Fan sensor needs to be replaced it sounds like(the big driverside one I believe you said) so I will and then I guess make sure that the WP is not leaking and go from there to Blackstone. That will tell me if my head gasket is no good or that brown foam you mentioned?
I looked at the Blackstone labs website, is the standard analysis the one I need to give me the answers I need? I see they have many tests.
Thanks for your help, hopefully I will have some not so bad news to report tomorrow. Have a good night.
10-14-2011, 06:51 AM
#19
Drifting
...When I left and was driving to my next destination the car was at normal temp (a tiny fraction below half). But for a minute or two the temp went down to colder than normal hovering above 3/8th clearly below the halfway point. Then the next minute it was on the high side of the half way point a slight tiny tiny fraction above the half way point barely noticeable but noticeable. The running cool also happened in the morning on a quick 5 min run I made, meaning was normal hot(half way or so) and then went to above 3/8th and then back to half.
These occurrences have to be systematic of something ....
These occurrences have to be systematic of something ....
Did you pressure test it yet?? It's easy to do.
10-14-2011, 06:54 AM
#20
Drifting
10-14-2011, 09:30 AM
#21
Is the coolant Temp sensor different from the fan sensor? I wanna do that test with the coolant. Autozone has that coolant test I'm guessing? What test am I looking for or what is it called exactly and I will pull some coolant out to do it.
10-14-2011, 09:32 AM
#22
thats enough in this case- to see if there is serious wear or contamination of coolant
either will reduce the coolants ~whatever that makes the needle move~
and show as very `low level of protection` reading
my concern with this vehicle is the ongong temp issue
If I read correctly this has been happening 2 years?
either will reduce the coolants ~whatever that makes the needle move~
and show as very `low level of protection` reading
my concern with this vehicle is the ongong temp issue
If I read correctly this has been happening 2 years?
10-14-2011, 09:41 AM
#23
The PART: a fan temp (operating) sensor installs in the thermostat housing on the 99
later years passenger side lower rear corner of rad
Who has the current price on one?
the TOOL: a coolant quality/ anti-freeze protection guage has a squeeze bulb at top
a middle section with guage that reads in F. degrees of freeze protection
attached to the bottem of guage area is a short length of hose
open the rad cap with engine cold- so you dont scald yourself!!
2nd degree burns across your chest suck~
Squeeze the bulb, insert tube into fluid and release bulb, it pulls up the needed amount for testing,,squeeze again to put fluid back in rad
repeat a few times to be sure you are getting a solid reading
ck res bottle too,,some of its contents swaps places every night and morning
later years passenger side lower rear corner of rad
Who has the current price on one?
the TOOL: a coolant quality/ anti-freeze protection guage has a squeeze bulb at top
a middle section with guage that reads in F. degrees of freeze protection
attached to the bottem of guage area is a short length of hose
open the rad cap with engine cold- so you dont scald yourself!!
2nd degree burns across your chest suck~
Squeeze the bulb, insert tube into fluid and release bulb, it pulls up the needed amount for testing,,squeeze again to put fluid back in rad
repeat a few times to be sure you are getting a solid reading
ck res bottle too,,some of its contents swaps places every night and morning
10-14-2011, 09:42 AM
#24
a coolant temp sensor may be referring to the one that runs the guage
they are next to each other on the 99
guage sensor has 1 wire iirc,,fan operating unit, 2
they are next to each other on the 99
guage sensor has 1 wire iirc,,fan operating unit, 2
10-14-2011, 11:17 AM
#26
which -in this case- can be used to determine the coolants approximate age,
newer will have full `deep freeze protection` well into the sub zero F range
As it ages and the additives deteriorate, that reading will drop
I have used the type with a swinging guage and the balls type
if it barely moves, thats some OLD coolant = most likely water pump is a key issue in this ongoing overheat prob and may have clogged radiator too
old coolant = old water pump,,possibly/very likely both are OE parts on that 99
and would explain the temp variations
If the OP has owned the car since before 60kmiles,,they know if the money was spent getting the 105 done or not
most people remember hearing its going to be over 1000 dollars, maybe quoted 1200 or 1500 or more,,needs hoses, thermostat, sensor etc not included in basic estimate
plus the valve adjust is way overdue on this car as well
wonder if it ever had the egr port/passage cleaning done after the recall?
needed every 75kmiles
newer will have full `deep freeze protection` well into the sub zero F range
As it ages and the additives deteriorate, that reading will drop
I have used the type with a swinging guage and the balls type
if it barely moves, thats some OLD coolant = most likely water pump is a key issue in this ongoing overheat prob and may have clogged radiator too
old coolant = old water pump,,possibly/very likely both are OE parts on that 99
and would explain the temp variations
If the OP has owned the car since before 60kmiles,,they know if the money was spent getting the 105 done or not
most people remember hearing its going to be over 1000 dollars, maybe quoted 1200 or 1500 or more,,needs hoses, thermostat, sensor etc not included in basic estimate
plus the valve adjust is way overdue on this car as well
wonder if it ever had the egr port/passage cleaning done after the recall?
needed every 75kmiles
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 10-14-2011 at 11:20 AM.
10-14-2011, 04:35 PM
#27
I was trying to respond all day but where I was I was blocked from logging in to the site so as frustrated as I was I could not respond this morning.
So OK,Parts I will buy today, Gauge sensor, Fan sensor(should I get both or ist it the same one)? I will also buy a coolant test kit. Check that my small fan runs when the AC is on and make sure my water pump is not leaking.
Car was fine today throughout all my routes so far. Still hoping that that's a good sign , guessing that if my gasket was bad maybe it would act up more. The 2 years worth of this issue has been a total of about 5 to 7 incidents on the hottest of days. The very first time it was 113 degree's and the heat snuck up on me since I did not expect to see it and it went just past the 3/4 mark. the events after were always watched and once the heating began I immediately turned off the AC and everything went back to normal. Those were only on the days over 100, once the latest time was on a 97ish degree day. There were many days that I used the ac in about just above 90 degree days that gave me no problems at all.
Will buy these items and check those things and go from there. Also my coolant is no more than 14 to 17 months old. A radiator hose ruptured at some point around that time and replaced it all with new one. If that helps. The egr was cleaned no more than a year ago for the first time. Pump was done if not mistaken a few years ago. Timing belt I have no recollection of. Slightly embarrassed about 6 months ago I started using regular unleaded, not sure if thats a cardinal sin but read an article that said to test your car and if it worked fine with it that it would be fine. Long after all this started but still i'll put it out there.
Thanks
So OK,Parts I will buy today, Gauge sensor, Fan sensor(should I get both or ist it the same one)? I will also buy a coolant test kit. Check that my small fan runs when the AC is on and make sure my water pump is not leaking.
Car was fine today throughout all my routes so far. Still hoping that that's a good sign , guessing that if my gasket was bad maybe it would act up more. The 2 years worth of this issue has been a total of about 5 to 7 incidents on the hottest of days. The very first time it was 113 degree's and the heat snuck up on me since I did not expect to see it and it went just past the 3/4 mark. the events after were always watched and once the heating began I immediately turned off the AC and everything went back to normal. Those were only on the days over 100, once the latest time was on a 97ish degree day. There were many days that I used the ac in about just above 90 degree days that gave me no problems at all.
Will buy these items and check those things and go from there. Also my coolant is no more than 14 to 17 months old. A radiator hose ruptured at some point around that time and replaced it all with new one. If that helps. The egr was cleaned no more than a year ago for the first time. Pump was done if not mistaken a few years ago. Timing belt I have no recollection of. Slightly embarrassed about 6 months ago I started using regular unleaded, not sure if thats a cardinal sin but read an article that said to test your car and if it worked fine with it that it would be fine. Long after all this started but still i'll put it out there.
Thanks
Last edited by lojik; 10-14-2011 at 04:41 PM.
10-14-2011, 07:30 PM
#28
stop that! the car is designed to run on 94, gets by on 91
and you may think its good on 87 but actual mpg results will show thats wrong
also messes with internal engine temps from poor combustion
Not doing yourself any favors there
if the wp was done, it got a new t belt as part of the deal-
wp is behind the belt and book calls for replacement together
dont think you need a dash guage temp sensor, its working
just a fan temp sensor that operates the fan
if you know coolant is 2 yrs then no need for that tester!
ck wp for leaks- pressure test system- might be a hose loose or leaking
start with rad cap - seal condition?- pressure spring fell off and laying in rad?
you wouldnt be the first
whats the res bottle look like inside? fluid?
and you may think its good on 87 but actual mpg results will show thats wrong
also messes with internal engine temps from poor combustion
Not doing yourself any favors there
if the wp was done, it got a new t belt as part of the deal-
wp is behind the belt and book calls for replacement together
dont think you need a dash guage temp sensor, its working
just a fan temp sensor that operates the fan
if you know coolant is 2 yrs then no need for that tester!
ck wp for leaks- pressure test system- might be a hose loose or leaking
start with rad cap - seal condition?- pressure spring fell off and laying in rad?
you wouldnt be the first
whats the res bottle look like inside? fluid?
10-14-2011, 09:08 PM
#29
01tl4tl, Here are some pics from the car that I took while inspecting under it. There , to the untrained eye would appear that something is not right based on how these look. Maybe you might have a better idea of what is going on. The car was being driven and had just been shut off. Don't know if it all looks fresh because it was super hot and melted it to look wet but some of the liquid is clearly red (tranny fluid maybe) . The reservoir looks fine. Will check the rad cap. No foam or funniness in the coolant reservoir.
10-14-2011, 09:49 PM
#31
geez who changes your oil
half that mess may be from the oil filter dripping while its changed
gets on control arm- goes down oil pan, blows back from airflow..
ckd those valve cover bolts recently?
or is internal pressure blowing out the seal there?
still looking thru pics--not looking good for wp
half that mess may be from the oil filter dripping while its changed
gets on control arm- goes down oil pan, blows back from airflow..
ckd those valve cover bolts recently?
or is internal pressure blowing out the seal there?
still looking thru pics--not looking good for wp
10-14-2011, 09:54 PM
#32
that has been going on a long time,,grab a can of gunk and a stiff brush - get rid of the buildup so we can spot the leak(s)
ck your PCV valve over rear valve cover --ball inside should shake freely, like a spray can of paint
is it losing coolant from the res or rad?
ck your PCV valve over rear valve cover --ball inside should shake freely, like a spray can of paint
is it losing coolant from the res or rad?
10-14-2011, 10:36 PM
#33
Different people at different times but It will be me from now on for the oil. Looked on AZine for PVC location, probhave to do tomorrow I see I will have to remove the cover and check that. As for the res or rad as far as I see there is no leaks there.
The valve cover bolts have not been checked I believe, not sure about the internal pressure leaking or not. What is the tell, or do I have to clean with the stuff you mentioned first. Where is the area that needs the cleaning , the pics under the car or the ones above by the coils?
The valve cover bolts have not been checked I believe, not sure about the internal pressure leaking or not. What is the tell, or do I have to clean with the stuff you mentioned first. Where is the area that needs the cleaning , the pics under the car or the ones above by the coils?
10-15-2011, 11:51 AM
#34
do NOT use cleaner near the coils!! wipe up what you can with a rag
see if the valve cover bolts are loose for that prob
Under the car is for GUNK and low pressure misting rinse
the engine cover is 4 small bolts
pcv is easy to find over rear valve cover towards driver side of car- has a clamp on each end of small metal part
Its one of those `may as well replace once you remove` = under 10 bucks at parts store
Its correct operation is critical..and you appear to have some oil sludge issues
Ever seafoam the oil before change?
see if the valve cover bolts are loose for that prob
Under the car is for GUNK and low pressure misting rinse
the engine cover is 4 small bolts
pcv is easy to find over rear valve cover towards driver side of car- has a clamp on each end of small metal part
Its one of those `may as well replace once you remove` = under 10 bucks at parts store
Its correct operation is critical..and you appear to have some oil sludge issues
Ever seafoam the oil before change?
10-15-2011, 01:09 PM
#35
No seafoam , I was gonna ask you about it to do it now before this upcoming oil change but all this happened.
So i should tighten all of those bolts by the coils? Your saying that they may be loose because of all that stuff around it?
There is another likely unrelated issue I was gonna bring up but like I said this happened. My heater stopped working. as if i loosened a vacuum or something. IT happened one time after service, it would not work and had the mechanic check all hoses. He said they were all fine and checked em all. After he did the heater worked again. A couple months back when I had to replace one of my back side coils, it stopped working again. Must have loosened something again and tried to make sure everything was on right in all the hoses around there but it still doesn't work. I must not be touching the right hose. I am due for a oil change. Should I do it and seafoam now before this or after all this? Should I change the fan sensor first? Or simply clean all under the car first? It's quite a bit of stuff and have only tommorow to do it. If you could tell me since we have discussed so much , what should be my course of action, my curriculum if you will.
It just hit me , when you said to check that the PVC is rattling , you meant I have to remove it to check right so if so your saying just flat out replace it since it's cheap.
I truly am strapped pretty bad for cash but am willing to do what is best for the car, sensor, seafoam, pcv, gunk, test kit they all seem inexpensive enough for me to be able to do to save my car. Ultimately is Blackstone the only thing of all this that will tell me how much damage there is and all this other stuff is just precautionary and removing possibilities off of a checklist? Like I said if you could please direct me in what order or or in what priority to go about it I would really appreciate it? Thank You
So i should tighten all of those bolts by the coils? Your saying that they may be loose because of all that stuff around it?
There is another likely unrelated issue I was gonna bring up but like I said this happened. My heater stopped working. as if i loosened a vacuum or something. IT happened one time after service, it would not work and had the mechanic check all hoses. He said they were all fine and checked em all. After he did the heater worked again. A couple months back when I had to replace one of my back side coils, it stopped working again. Must have loosened something again and tried to make sure everything was on right in all the hoses around there but it still doesn't work. I must not be touching the right hose. I am due for a oil change. Should I do it and seafoam now before this or after all this? Should I change the fan sensor first? Or simply clean all under the car first? It's quite a bit of stuff and have only tommorow to do it. If you could tell me since we have discussed so much , what should be my course of action, my curriculum if you will.
It just hit me , when you said to check that the PVC is rattling , you meant I have to remove it to check right so if so your saying just flat out replace it since it's cheap.
I truly am strapped pretty bad for cash but am willing to do what is best for the car, sensor, seafoam, pcv, gunk, test kit they all seem inexpensive enough for me to be able to do to save my car. Ultimately is Blackstone the only thing of all this that will tell me how much damage there is and all this other stuff is just precautionary and removing possibilities off of a checklist? Like I said if you could please direct me in what order or or in what priority to go about it I would really appreciate it? Thank You
10-16-2011, 01:04 AM
#36
look on the firewall where the heater hoses are- ck the valve there for operation-
wd40 fixes a sticking problem that unit has
Engine COLD:
I would CK the valve cover bolts first- gently snug is how tight,,not overtight!! which will squeeze out the gaskets
Wipe up what you can on top,,thats a minor issue right now, mine looks the same
Clean the pcv with spray carb cleaner- should have ball shakes inside when clean.
Replace if its so dirty there is no hope for it
Install the new fan sensor
Wipe off under car- gunk or simple green works great too, car ramps make this easier or car wash place if no access at home
low pressure water only- not hard spray on anything or you get to start a new thread~-
now the engine warm stuff:
Warm up engine and test fan operation
change the oil and filter
in this case- its important to know if the long term has caused internal heat damage-
halfway thru draining, grab 4 ounces of the fluid into a cup.
did you see blackstones site? they send a container to ship it in
fan sensor would be most important item,,without fan running correctly, you are in deep stuff~
heater can also be related to low coolant level or thermostat sticking prob
Is the rad level at the filler neck every time you ck it?
rad cap looks good? parts store can test
wd40 fixes a sticking problem that unit has
Engine COLD:
I would CK the valve cover bolts first- gently snug is how tight,,not overtight!! which will squeeze out the gaskets
Wipe up what you can on top,,thats a minor issue right now, mine looks the same
Clean the pcv with spray carb cleaner- should have ball shakes inside when clean.
Replace if its so dirty there is no hope for it
Install the new fan sensor
Wipe off under car- gunk or simple green works great too, car ramps make this easier or car wash place if no access at home
low pressure water only- not hard spray on anything or you get to start a new thread~-
now the engine warm stuff:
Warm up engine and test fan operation
change the oil and filter
in this case- its important to know if the long term has caused internal heat damage-
halfway thru draining, grab 4 ounces of the fluid into a cup.
did you see blackstones site? they send a container to ship it in
fan sensor would be most important item,,without fan running correctly, you are in deep stuff~
heater can also be related to low coolant level or thermostat sticking prob
Is the rad level at the filler neck every time you ck it?
rad cap looks good? parts store can test
10-16-2011, 01:09 AM
#37
dont need the coolant tester - you know coolants age is 2 years--thats fine
the waterpump/timing belt job being done is a major concern here
it could explain some symptoms too if original water pump and weak.
internal seal leaking so it spins, but doesnt make pressure- especially at idle
start moving and it makes the coolant flow!!
the waterpump/timing belt job being done is a major concern here
it could explain some symptoms too if original water pump and weak.
internal seal leaking so it spins, but doesnt make pressure- especially at idle
start moving and it makes the coolant flow!!
10-16-2011, 01:40 PM
#38
I forgot to mention that when I turned the AC to check the fans , they both turned on right away(In case it makes a difference). The smaller fan seems really strong, felt a bit harder than the bigger one.
So it appears I will not be able to do the seafoam this time around then and will have to wait for my next oil change, that a shame because I really felt the car needed it bad.
I was looking for my receipt of water pump replacement but could not find it But I vaguely remember that advisement of changing the timing belt because that was so easy with the water pump being done. Not 100 but does sound familiar.
Thank You for that breakdown you did for me above. I have a torque wrench, is there maybe a setting I should use or just lightly tightened is enough?
Thanks again. I will get on it.
So it appears I will not be able to do the seafoam this time around then and will have to wait for my next oil change, that a shame because I really felt the car needed it bad.
I was looking for my receipt of water pump replacement but could not find it But I vaguely remember that advisement of changing the timing belt because that was so easy with the water pump being done. Not 100 but does sound familiar.
Thank You for that breakdown you did for me above. I have a torque wrench, is there maybe a setting I should use or just lightly tightened is enough?
Thanks again. I will get on it.
10-16-2011, 01:42 PM
#39
And the last few days (Friday & Saturday) not to jinx myself but the car has not gone up in temp, it has either ran normal or ran colder than usual even if for just a minute.