Plastic top of radiator cracked, how to fix?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Plastic top of radiator cracked, how to fix?
Crack is 4" long. It leak only when I drive and than not huge amount but need to be fixed. It look that part is plastic. What ziners do here?
#3
USAF Veteran
Flextape...... OK Just kidding.
That crack will grow under heat/cool cycles. At some point possibly fail catastrophically. Change now while your can. Make sure you use the correct coolant. I would change out the hoses and clamps too.
That crack will grow under heat/cool cycles. At some point possibly fail catastrophically. Change now while your can. Make sure you use the correct coolant. I would change out the hoses and clamps too.
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justnspace (10-11-2020)
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Saudade (10-12-2020)
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I was thinking about using "J-B weld plastic bonder" but bumped in this opinion.
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"a note here: you have to check the condition of the plastic radiator for if it has accumulated quite a bit of mileage and the ABS plastic body maybe on it's way out, then it makes no sense to patch it only to have it develop cracks again on some other parts of the radiator down the road. I had similar situations on dad's old 323 ('88) , only to realise a few months down the road that it's getting so tired that it would develop some other cracks/leaks down the road."
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Yeah my radiator has 275K at it. So do not worth patch it only to have another crack a few months latter. Helpful in it is that need not spend energy at checking how to patch radiator with epoxy. Can concentrate at how to replace radiator.
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"a note here: you have to check the condition of the plastic radiator for if it has accumulated quite a bit of mileage and the ABS plastic body maybe on it's way out, then it makes no sense to patch it only to have it develop cracks again on some other parts of the radiator down the road. I had similar situations on dad's old 323 ('88) , only to realise a few months down the road that it's getting so tired that it would develop some other cracks/leaks down the road."
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Yeah my radiator has 275K at it. So do not worth patch it only to have another crack a few months latter. Helpful in it is that need not spend energy at checking how to patch radiator with epoxy. Can concentrate at how to replace radiator.
Last edited by bbsitum; 10-11-2020 at 06:47 PM.
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#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
"You want the radiator with the sensor hole. The sensor that used to be by the thermostat housing is now on the radiator on the 02-03 TL. The 99-01 TL use the radiator without the sensor hole."
This is big if true. Only as much I checked at internet 01-03 is different from 99-00. I have to check for that sensor hole?
This is big if true. Only as much I checked at internet 01-03 is different from 99-00. I have to check for that sensor hole?
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
"Ok it seems my information was off a little bit. I went through the service manual and it says J32A1 engines do not have a radiator fan switch C. The J32A2 does have the fan switch C.
So to clarify the J32A1 is used in all 99-03 non type S TL's. These engines do NOT have a switch at the radiator. The J32A2 is used on the 02-03 Type S and these DO have a fan switch C on the bottom of the radiator.
I did check my 2000 TL non type S to make sure and it did not have the fan switch. I am using switch instead of sensor only because that's what the service manual calls it. Hope this helps the OP."
My is J32A2, because is type S. Almost brought wrong radiator today from U-pull. Something stop me. Man imagine fixing cars before internet. How would figure out all of this.
So to clarify the J32A1 is used in all 99-03 non type S TL's. These engines do NOT have a switch at the radiator. The J32A2 is used on the 02-03 Type S and these DO have a fan switch C on the bottom of the radiator.
I did check my 2000 TL non type S to make sure and it did not have the fan switch. I am using switch instead of sensor only because that's what the service manual calls it. Hope this helps the OP."
My is J32A2, because is type S. Almost brought wrong radiator today from U-pull. Something stop me. Man imagine fixing cars before internet. How would figure out all of this.
Last edited by bbsitum; 10-11-2020 at 07:26 PM.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well decided to give a try to "GB weld plastic bond". Went to U-pull yesterday and pulled out one radiator but is old, it is not aftermarket. If JB fail than will find a radiator. If JB fail at -40F in mid of MN winter I can always come to this tread and cry for a while and will be good to go again. Had to add 2" more of JB to the right as crack extend 1/2" more to the right than JB in picture.
Last edited by bbsitum; 10-13-2020 at 05:24 PM.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
^^^ Actually at u-pull radiator is 45$. Can not believe is so cheap Denso. Will check. I know at O reilly and such radiator is 125$ or so. Yeah do not make sense pull rusted one.
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
^^^ Epoxy didn't work, start leak right away. Went to south U-pull, before was at northern one, and didn't find any newer radiator. No surprise as only 2001-03 type S fit. So will order at internet. And hope to install it Saturday 10 days from now.
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well ordered from rock auto. Look like at 60$ theirs price is cheapest at internet. All with delivery for 76$. At U-pull is 35 + 5 for core. So not much cheaper. Like that it is Denso. Bought some transmission line from O'Reilly a few years go and they start leak in one year, I think brand was Duralast.
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justnspace (10-15-2020)
#20
Senior Moderator
and how much is your time worth?
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whitetiger5 (10-15-2020)
#24
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
#25
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
I think junk yard items CAN be worth it, but a radiator wouldnt be one of those items. as most likely it is the original radiator with 100k+ miles on it, with who knows what kind of rust or junk inside of them.. Sure you can run water through it to rinse it out, but will likely be rotten and crack just like the Original Poster's radiator.
For $35 more than an old junk yard one, it is definitely worth it to get the brand new DENSO radiator from Rockauto. If ordered on the 11th, probably would have made it to OP's home by now. Not trying to beat up the guy, as he likely enjoyed 10 tall beers in the mean time.
For $35 more than an old junk yard one, it is definitely worth it to get the brand new DENSO radiator from Rockauto. If ordered on the 11th, probably would have made it to OP's home by now. Not trying to beat up the guy, as he likely enjoyed 10 tall beers in the mean time.
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#26
I mean I do kinda get it though - I love roaming my local junkyards, looking for fun stuff to pull into my cars. I've got a big shopping list I keep of parts to look out for, and if I find one in good condition I'll grab it.
Sure, I also disagree with using JB weld of all things on a radiator (OP wasn't even using the good stuff, I think he was using the plastic repair stuff for this task?). For that type of thing it's definitely better to just get it new. But if he's enjoying the time spent tinkering on the car, is there really any harm done? I'll admit it's not very cost efficient nor time wise what he's doing, but if he's out there vibing with his TL who are we to crap on him for that?
Sure, I also disagree with using JB weld of all things on a radiator (OP wasn't even using the good stuff, I think he was using the plastic repair stuff for this task?). For that type of thing it's definitely better to just get it new. But if he's enjoying the time spent tinkering on the car, is there really any harm done? I'll admit it's not very cost efficient nor time wise what he's doing, but if he's out there vibing with his TL who are we to crap on him for that?
#27
Senior Moderator
I mean I do kinda get it though - I love roaming my local junkyards, looking for fun stuff to pull into my cars. I've got a big shopping list I keep of parts to look out for, and if I find one in good condition I'll grab it.
Sure, I also disagree with using JB weld of all things on a radiator (OP wasn't even using the good stuff, I think he was using the plastic repair stuff for this task?). For that type of thing it's definitely better to just get it new. But if he's enjoying the time spent tinkering on the car, is there really any harm done? I'll admit it's not very cost efficient nor time wise what he's doing, but if he's out there vibing with his TL who are we to crap on him for that?
Sure, I also disagree with using JB weld of all things on a radiator (OP wasn't even using the good stuff, I think he was using the plastic repair stuff for this task?). For that type of thing it's definitely better to just get it new. But if he's enjoying the time spent tinkering on the car, is there really any harm done? I'll admit it's not very cost efficient nor time wise what he's doing, but if he's out there vibing with his TL who are we to crap on him for that?
If he came in here and said "hey this is what i'm going to do", then yeah I wouldn't crap on him either.. but he came in asking for advice and then decided to do his own thing anyway against any of our advice why ask then..? We don't get hurt if his radiator fails on him so just trying to help out where we can.
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whitetiger5 (10-19-2020)
#28
If he came in here and said "hey this is what i'm going to do", then yeah I wouldn't crap on him either.. but he came in asking for advice and then decided to do his own thing anyway against any of our advice why ask then..? We don't get hurt if his radiator fails on him so just trying to help out where we can.
#29
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
It is here. Look just like father. Can not do today as is only 35F out and part need to be done from ground laying down. Should be 57F and last year this day was 67. Will do Saturday. I have to work other days of week. Well come in 4 days and 2 of them was weekend.
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#30
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
^^^ Done at so called good weather day in MN. Wind around 30F was blowing all day. I did remove battery try and than only right fan. Left one I just moved little away from radiator and replaced it. Trickiest part is disconnect that sensor wire from left fan so to be capable lift radiator with sensor and his cord. Broke right radiator bolt because it was rusty but put gorilla glue below bracket hopefully it will hold. But even only one should do job. If gorilla glue would not hold would do 2K jb weld and will hold for sure.
Epoxy at old one was leaking Wednesday more, like tiny steam, and I just added one more coat of epoxy to stop it. Probably would be capable go that way for a few month. Epoxy work like temporary patch really well. Did its job.
Epoxy at old one was leaking Wednesday more, like tiny steam, and I just added one more coat of epoxy to stop it. Probably would be capable go that way for a few month. Epoxy work like temporary patch really well. Did its job.
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justnspace (11-01-2020)
#31
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Big one here for me is steps. Remove battery tray, than right fan. Disconnect sensor wire that is attached to left fan. Move left fan one inch back and lift radiator with sensor at it. I think is 3 times easier do this way than disconnecting all wires from left fan. Strange none at internet I found doing this job that way. Btw I figured out this process when I was lifting first radiator at U-pull. It is hidden gem of U-pulls, you learn there how to do things. If you break something in process nobody care there.
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justnspace (11-01-2020)
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