nak3791

Hello. I am needing to replace my oil pan. I have a chilton manual and it says there are a lot of steps to remove it. I was wondering if anyone that has done this before knows of an easier way to do it than what chilton says. Thanks in advance.

SuperGreg

I have looked at it from under the car since I have a small oil leak that would involve removing the oil pan and oil pump. It looked like such a PITA that I decided to put up with the leak for now. Good luck, lol.

nak3791

I posted on another thread about it and someone said all you should have to do is remove the j pipe. I also looked at it while changing my oil today and I believe he is right. You might have to take out the subframe too but I'm not sure. There's a few bolts that would be hard to get to without taking it out but you could probably do it with a swivel on your ratchet or maybe a short wrench or something. I'm going to try it soon and I'll let you know how it goes.

sysuleman

Did you start yet? You can get away with just disconnecting the exhaust from the headers and bungee cording it out of your way. You don't have to remove the subframe but you can help yourself out by removing/disconnecting the front and side engine mounts and jacking engine at the transmission housing by an inch or so to give yourself more access.

Absolut_GR8_1

What size bolts are on the header pipe?

sysuleman

Are you talking about the self locking nuts? I think they're 14mm. If you're talking about the bolts you can dig up the size on the estore. Did you break them? I got them off with some liquid wrench and an air impact.

nak3791

Sorry for the late reply. I still haven't gotten to it yet. It's not a bad leak and I've had other things that needed repaired first. When I looked at it it doesn't look bad at all. I think there's probably extra steps in the chilton manual to try and get you to take it to the dealer. Thank you all for replying.

Iggy

Dump the chilton book and download the actual service manual. Do a search on this forum and you will find it.

frankjnjr

It's not terribly difficult. To me, the most challenging part of the process was positioning the pan back onto the block after the HondaBond sealer was applied. I thought this would be the easy part, but ended up having to clean the sealer off the pan and re-applying it after i messed it up the first time. I know, it seems like it should be easy, just place the pan back on the block, install the bolts and tighten it up. I wish i would have PRACTICED positioning the pan back up to the block a couple times first, before i applied the sealer. For me, this step of the process was not as easy as i would have expected it to be, but i could have made it easier if i had just practiced first!

smcafee

I've use Blue Devil stop leak (both for Rear Seal and the General Oil Leaks) with good results for this leak. It's an additive that swells rubber and helps reseal leaky o-rings, of which we have many.

For $20 give it a try.