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Old 04-14-2019, 02:16 PM
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Thank you for the reply. I do have the manual on my laptop and printed the pages I need. Not a lot of detail about the fuel delivery line. I gave up on it and moved to rear motor mount. Cleaning surfaces. Timing belt inspection. Waiting on all the parts to come in now.
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Old 04-14-2019, 06:31 PM
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I'm trying to remove the rear mount. OMG it's a monster. Lol. What are these two boxes. They look like electrical coils.

Whatever they are they are in my way for sure.
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Old 04-14-2019, 07:54 PM
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They are some sort of vibration dampener from what Iíve seen. Iíve never had to replace them (perhaps I should have).

To get the mount unbolted I had to get under the car with the exception of the two bolts on the driver side; which I used a pivot joint. I believe it helps if you have a long handled ratchet (3/8Ē drive) when trying to break it loose with pretty much just your grip strength to work with.
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Old 04-14-2019, 08:25 PM
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Thank you for your reply. That makes sense cause there are no wires or plumbing going to them.

I have the four bolts off the mount itself. I torched each one of them and they came right out. Then I found a 10 mm bolt with ground wires. Got that out. Removed an electric connector off the bracket going to the motor and the top nut on the mount itself.
So I have the 4 bolts going to the motor left to get. Heck I can't even see them with an Insp mirror. So I don't see how the mount would come out into the engine bay. There is no room with the dampers and heater coolant hoses and control valve. So....



Thats 10 pounds of stuff in a 5 pond bad for sure.


So I started on the timing belt inspection. I removed the forward cover and marked the belt and had a friend turn the motor which is easy since all plugs are out. It looks to be in good condition. No grease,oil or coolant. The cogs are nicely round and crisp. The FIRST good news...no great news I've got since I fell into this abyss lol.
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Old 04-15-2019, 02:06 AM
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I could be wrong but I believe that at time of manufacture the engine/ trans are assembled on the sub frame (with engine mounts and mounting brackets installed) and lifted into the frame from below.

For removal and installation, in the car, you gotta lift the car up, put it on jack stands, support the engine; most people use a jack and wooden blocks under the engine for this.

Once you've got that all squared away, you should be able to access the rear mount bracket from below with a 17mm socket, some extensions and definitely a long handled, thin ratchet to fit in there. otherwise you may need to use a universal joint. page 5-14 show the bolts and torque specs; one goes into the transmission and two others into the engine block.

the only real tip I would have (when reassembling) is to get all the bolts threaded before you tighten any: then tighten the mounting bracket first (3 bolts) and mount second (4 bolts that are a PIA to get to). don't forget the vacuum hose!
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Old 04-15-2019, 04:37 PM
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I hope to get under the car this evening and look around and maybe loosen some bolts! Thank you for sharing your experience with this mount. Im not a mechanic so I get nervous lol cause its not my car.
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Old 04-15-2019, 04:43 PM
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QUESTION??
After I install the six fuel injectors and mount the rails HOW do I pressurize fuel system to check for leaks before I install the intake and throttle body?


Just hook up negative wire and cycle key?

I dont want to cause additional issues by applying power since several are unhooked. Thanks
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Old 04-15-2019, 06:23 PM
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The manual states to connect everything first, then turn the key to the one position (but do not start) and inspect (probably smell) for leaks. I'd probably do it that way, you have a very low chance of a leak being present; unless you reused the fuel injector o-rings.
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Old 04-15-2019, 06:34 PM
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Yes I thought that may be the case. So you have to fully reassemble everything...

That's how my Mazda 6 was. Thank you for chiming in.

I just jacked up the car and replaced timing belt cover in fear of dropping something in there or maybe a rodent climbing in. Lol
My harmonic balancer just arrived minutes ago so the parts are beginning to trickle in.
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Old 04-15-2019, 06:47 PM
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Just keep a lit candle in the engine bay, you'll know immediately if there's a leak
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Old 04-15-2019, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi View Post
Just keep a lit candle in the engine bay, you'll know immediately if there's a leak
ROGER that.
LOL
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Old 04-15-2019, 07:32 PM
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Separated harmonic balancer...
Repair kit...

Kidding...here is the new one. Waiting on belts...
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Old 04-15-2019, 10:36 PM
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Just take it easy and pull off all of the pullys, exhuast and other things that waste horsepower like, IDK, interior and drive it like that...


A lot less will go wrong if there is nothing to break!


Will be faster too!

Last edited by Midnight Mystery; 04-15-2019 at 10:36 PM. Reason: Pull
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Old 04-16-2019, 12:31 PM
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I cannot find this plate two bolts and gasket on my intake manifold. The gasket came with the intake fel pro kit. Any ideas? I'm guessing they made a change for some engines.

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Old 04-16-2019, 01:47 PM
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^
It must be a 'typo' for that J32A1 page. I believe that did not show-up on the TL's until MY2002 when the Type-S J32A2 engine came on the scene.

Along with not having any information on some items, in the helms manual, there are errors as well.

If time allows, sometime a good cross reference is an OEM vendor page, for the model year in question:

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-p...old-00-03-scat

Last edited by zeta; 04-16-2019 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 04-16-2019, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
^
It must be a 'typo' for that J32A1 page. I believe that did not show-up on the TL's until MY2002 when the Type-S J32A2 engine came on the scene.

Along with not having any information on some items, in the helms manual, there are errors as well.

If time allows, sometime a good cross reference is an OEM vendor page, for the model year in question:

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-p...old-00-03-scat
Great info Zeta. Thank you for the reply. I will not concern myself...
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Old 04-16-2019, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by kramerpage View Post
Great info Zeta. Thank you for the reply. I will not concern myself...
Just an FYI.

When you reinstall the (#10 on the link above) upper IM gasket (usually made of thin metal) before bolting down the (#9) upper IM cover, make sure to 'eyeball' real good that it is installed so that it looks correct. Sometimes this gasket gets flipped by accident, then when you go to run the engine it causes problems.

On the Type-S gasket, their is a 'tab' offset on the round part of the gasket nearest the throttle body side, that 'tab' has to be placed so that it sits to the rear near the firewall to have correct placement.
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Old 04-16-2019, 03:46 PM
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Roger that Zeta. If they get flipped they actually cover the egr circuit holes. I watched a video where the owner found that gasket incorrectly installed.
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Old 04-17-2019, 07:12 PM
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So I lost 2 hours of my life tonight installing the serpentine belts. The power steering belt was straight forward. 20 minutes tops.
The accessories belt? OMG

I ended up wedging a stick lol between the alternator and the tensioner. I placed belt on all pulleys except crank shaft. Then turned CS. This is not how you install a belt but it was the only way I could make it happen.

Belt is 46 5/8 long.

My ego is bruised for sure.



I call
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Old 04-17-2019, 07:20 PM
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I received 3 of the 6 fuel injectors today so I'm guessing they split the shipment...

I still have not completely removed the rear mount.

I wanted to make the radio work for her if I can. She said it has never worked due to code. I looked in all paperwork in glove box and the fuse cover under the hood and the glove box. Lol. What an idiot that thought up that bright idea. So I may disassemble the interior to get the filthy code on the back so she can listen to music and crack some joy out. But that's a wish list item...
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Old 04-17-2019, 07:59 PM
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I hear ya on that belt tensioner...I didn't have the tensioner handle either, and a socket doesn't fit in there. I ended up using a flat style wrench and doubling up with another to give a little more leverage. obvi a very scary way to do it, but I got er' done!

You may try calling the dealer and asking for the code; I did that (with the VIN info) and they gave it to me right over the phone. other than that, I think the only other way is to go to the acura navi site (as you may already have planned) with the serial number from the back of the radio
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by kramerpage View Post
The accessories belt? OMG
Been there done that,

Now I place the belts in a 100f oven for about 15-20 minutes, then give it the beans. The increased heat induced pliability makes a difference.
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by whitetiger5 View Post
I hear ya on that belt tensioner...I didn't have the tensioner handle either, and a socket doesn't fit in there. I ended up using a flat style wrench and doubling up with another to give a little more leverage. obvi a very scary way to do it, but I got er' done!

You may try calling the dealer and asking for the code; I did that (with the VIN info) and they gave it to me right over the phone. other than that, I think the only other way is to go to the acura navi site (as you may already have planned) with the serial number from the back of the radio
Yes I did the double wrench. Had it all the way forward 100 percent and could not get it on. The belts as you know are stiff so your leaning on the dangerous wrenches with one hand and well not much in the other. Unbelievable..

It was my understanding the code is on a sticker on the back of the radio. You are saying just the serial number is on the back. I gotta do more research on this cause its a lot of work to pull that radio. I'm gonna try the vin call tomorrow. That would save a ton of work.

I have a nephew on hospice care not doing well at all so my time is very limited to walk this journey...

Thank you for your reply and helping me along. I appreciate it
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
Been there done that,

Now I place the belts in a 100f oven for about 15-20 minutes, then give it the beans. The increased heat induced pliability makes a difference.
That's the issue. You cant hold the wrench and get the belly out from the CS and the AC because of the belt stiffness. I even tried putting the radius from it sitting in the package on the alternator to help remove slack. I probably could have got it. Well I know I could have. Lol

Darn stiff belt

Thanks for your reply. I appreciate your time helping me zeta.
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Old 04-18-2019, 09:11 AM
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I called two dealerships in the area for the radio code. Both stated they cant do it by the vin. Need the serial number...
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Old Yesterday, 02:04 AM
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UPDAYE
Received injectors today. Installed them. Cleaned intake manifold again. Removed end bells on manifold. Nothing in there but some oil. Cleaned all and installed all new gaskets including TB and TB spacer. Torqued intake to specks and had two bolts begin to strip. Removed all and lowered torque to 140 inch pounds. Placed green thread locker on the two that were peeling threads. Oh Lord.

Gave up on rear mount realizing there is nowhere to get it out without destroying the heater core valve bracket which is severely rusted and thin. Bolt heads are gone. Tried to remove dampers mounted on frame and found they have nuts on bottom of frame. Also found transmission mount nuts are rusted so bad they will have to be torched off but there are numerous wires for the solenoids that would have to be removed. Lord...

Drained power steering fluid. Refilled with 32 ounces of Honda fluid.

Started car. Ran smoothly. Let warm while checking for leaks. Test drive on freeway. Hooked up scanner and NO CODES PENDING. Car now has great response and hp. I understand 1 injector was bad but I believe replacing all 6 was the way to go. Its got unbelievable hp.

Repaired broken window washer system. Found 3 clogs and two broken nipples.
Removed radio and got serial number. Went to Acura site and it states it doesn't match vin. That was 2 hours work. So idk what I'm gonna do w that. Call them I guess.

I noticed the front end makes noise when you travel over cracks bumps or drive aprons. Something is worn out bad. Idk much about the suspension. Car has great breaks. You can let go of wheel while breaking. Goes down the road straight but something is worn for sure.

Battery was very low on water. Cleaned filled.


Open items
Front end rattle noise
Radio
Rear and trans mount
Torque CS balancer bolt 185 ft lbs. Rent tool.
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Old Yesterday, 04:18 PM
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Good news. I got the code from Acura usa customer service over phone. Yeah.

Got the banacer torqued to 185.

Thanks for all the replies here!
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