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Hello all,
New hero on the forum....
I am trying to help a friend who has a 2001 tl with 230K with misfire. 2 months ago I moved coils around and found #6 dead. I replaced coil and she purred. Now all cylinders individually and random code showed up. So back to youtube and I cleaned the top intake / egr channels and the 6 ports on the intake which were completely plugged. Used 3 cans of carb cleaner and 2 hours of my life lol. I also installed new NGK plugs she insisted she bought. Still stumbles slightly at idle when you listen to exhaust. Like one miss every 10 seconds. Good acceleration. She said it ran great that night. A week later she states running rough and eating up fuel. Smell strong exhaust odor outside car now. I said I would look at it this weekend. Oh and she says the motor clunks when she places it in reverse or forwards. (Im thinking oh no motor mounts) lol
This lady is on disability and her father recently passed who would normally help her. I have never worked on or drove in an Acura. I will update as the drama unfolds.
Oh I have a question. To reset ecm you pull neg battery for 5 minutes correct? Are there capacitors that need drained like my Ford Expedition? Thank You
Any chance you checked the operation of the IACV? very common issue. There is a thread here on how to swap it out, or another thread that better yet cleans the existing and save some money because you rarely need to replace it, just clean the valving mechanism of carbon deposits.
Any chance you checked the operation of the IACV? very common issue. There is a thread here on how to swap it out, or another thread that better yet cleans the existing and save some money because you rarely need to replace it, just clean the valving mechanism of carbon deposits.
Thanks for the reply. I have not checked that. I have not had much time in front of the vehicle. I found a replacement thread which is straight forward but still looking for a cleaning thread. I will search tonight.
I have a scan tool so I can read the new codes that came up when I look at it this weekend and start the process.
Yes I do! Thanks for the encouragement! lol The more I read about the car the more I'm thinking I am in a pickle... There is alot of information on this forum! This car has 245K
I am afraid to look now that i went to the dyi section and read some post about the transmission. I will peak at it and post. I would think its bad and burnt and neglected. But hey, I could be wrong right? Cause most people take great care of their cars right? LOL
If you want to be a superhero, you could clean the trans solenoid, change the external filter, and do a 4x3 drain/fill. You'd be a better man than I!
You got me at Superhero I understand the 4x3 method since I did that for my Mazda 6. I dont know anything about the trans solenoid. Is that in the valve body? Dont know where the filter is either. I will look into it. Thanks for the Pro Tip!
I have a question about motor mounts seems the front and back mounts are air assist using vacuum. So if the mount fails could that be an open vacuum leak? Thanks for any help
Westfallen, I checked the tranny fluid and it was not that bad. It needs changed for sure. Turns out there was paperwork that states it was replaced 68,000 miles ago. I will start the fluid change process when I do motor mounts. Thanks for the heads up.
The vehicle came in Sunday with PO300 301 302 303 304 305 306 and 1399 codes. Searched for vacuum leak with carb cleaner. Even engin mounts.NO LEAKS I removed TB and cleaned MAP sensor with MAP cleaner. Cleaned IACV with carb cleaner. Cleaned TB which was the worst I have ever seen. Cleaned mating surfaces and installed new gasket.
Note: I did find the j traps in the TB air intake hose full of water. About a cup and a half and duct was wet from filter box to TB. Air filer was dry and box was dry. So I dont know where that is coming from. It was alot of water.
Removed top cover of intake plenum and followed up on last weeks cleaning concentrating on the drivers side valley that has the port to the EGR. Rand screwdriver and then coat hanger. Could tell it was plugged. Filled valley with carb cleaner and it bubbled for 30 minutes. Level started to go down. Continued to fill valley. Waited and hour and the pulled EGRV. The flood gates of carbon began to flow. Made a rubber cone to place on air compressor and blew 135 psi thru the valley port with rags over EGR mating surface. Cleanded EGR needle and seat. Installed new gasket and reassembled. Reassembled intake cover and place negative cable back on battery. Car runs good. Has good power and no miss that I can here or feel. Drove car for 5 miles. Ended up with a PENDING PO1399 code.
Used 3 large Gumount cans of carb cleaner and two gaskets. 26.00 dollars and five hours of my life. Motor mounts are bad. Thats next. Drivers side valley with EGR port Some of the chunky stuff. This was like the third cleaning. Unbelievable... Its getting better.
I did not do the mounts. It needs it badly. I am going to get the kit on Rock Auto for all of them since its so much cheaper. I have no idea how to do it so it should be fun....
DEA/MARMON RIDE CONTROL MK5503 Click Info for full list of components. Info
Includes 1 X A4507 (Rear), 1 X A6552 (Front Right), 1 X A6579 (Trans Rear), 1 X A6582 (Trans Front), 1 X A6592 (Front)
61.00. I know they are not OEM but for this car they will work just fine.
Can you tell me where I fill the transmission? The didstick tube is the smallest I have ever seen in my life? lol I have been looking and looking for a description of location or a pic. I read you may have a 18mm fill bolt on the top that is very hard to open but cannot confirm.... Thanks for any light you may shine.
Can you tell me where I fill the transmission? The didstick tube is the smallest I have ever seen in my life? lol I have been looking and looking for a description of location or a pic. I read you may have a 18mm fill bolt on the top that is very hard to open but cannot confirm.... Thanks for any light you may shine.
#7 on the link below shows where the ATF filler bolt is located:
Well this weekend with this sites help, I will try to replace 5 motor mounts. Replace trans filter and trans fluid. Repair wiper fluid system that doesn't work. I should then be finished with this good deed...Thanks to the friendly folks on here that have helped me understand this beast. Its by far the best resource for Acura dyi.
The front mount was difficult for me. Needed a 12pt ratchet wrench for lower bracket mounted to engine. Also the bolt to the frame back passenger side was frozen. Had to heat with torch to remove.
Passengers side to mount was much easier. Undo pump hose and fluid bottle for power steering. Straight forward.
Didn't have time for rear which looks like a joy to do. Lol
Trans mount is missing the bolt that goes into the trans case. The mount that looks like the letter C.
Did transmission fluid filter and found chassis ground wire broken from movement due to mounts broken. Replaced wire.
Number 1 cylinder has no difference when I pull coil wire. Placed new coil. Still no difference. Measured voltage on plug. Center to clip 13.6 v and center to other side bounces 2.2 to 3.2. The plugs are 1 month old OEM ngk. So maybe burnt valve? Poor compression?
well i changed #1 spark plug with #6 and tried that and no change. Im kinda stuck now.
I know I have spark at #1 cylinder and thats all I know.
I dont know if I have fuel or compression.
Im thinking compression will be the easiest to test next.
I sent her on her way and said I have to do more research...lol
We did place two bottles of seafoam in a full tank of premium fuel 3 weeks ago when it was running almost 100 percent.which could have loosened some trash up in the system.
I was this close to putting this good deed to bed.
Number 1 cylinder has no difference when I pull coil wire. Placed new coil. Still no difference. Measured voltage on plug. Center to clip 13.6 v and center to other side bounces 2.2 to 3.2. The plugs are 1 month old OEM ngk. So maybe burnt valve? Poor compression?
Maybe it's a failing fuel injector?
Checkout the thread below, maybe it can help regarding the misfire(s):
After sleeping on this issue I remember I smelled the plug when I removed it. She laughed at me when doing so and it did not smell of fuel. It was also dry. Unfortunately you cannot get to the injectors without removing the entire plenum system.
I will check compression on cylinders 1 and 6 and compare. If they are close in numbers I will move forward with removing both fuel rails and all injectors. Clean rails out and replace all injectors w OEM reman from rock auto. They are on sale for 19 each. If compression is bad ...well idk what to due then.
What is the wet dry compression numbers I'm looking for with 245K?
The crank pulley? How is that even possible? Definitely something to try and pick up from a salvage yard. if the need is not urgent i.e it's not a daily driver.
The rubber deteriorates and the grooved pulley separates. I talked to a mechanic yesterday and he said its common on high mileage Acuras for this to happen. A new balance from rockauto is 38 dollars. Autozone is 89 dollars. This mechanic down the street is going to break the pulley crank bolt loose for me tomorrow at 10am. Then I will take it from there. We both laughed about helping people less fortunate which he does also at his shop. He said "Well I can tell you no good deed goes unpunished" so I just laughed some more. He said did you check the timing belt? I said Lord no and he said you should before you go any further with repairs... I said now I feel like Im in quicksand. He said well its not to bad and I said yes for you maybe LOL
He said did you check the timing belt? I said Lord no and he said you should before you go any further with repairs... I said now I feel like Im in quicksand. He said well its not to bad and I said yes for you maybe LOL
Here is the cheapest Aisin TKH001 kit I could find $181.50 shipped.
Yes I don't wanna do it. Step away. Lol I'm thinking about things...
It needs new balancer
Upper gasket set
6 fuel injectors
2 serpentine belts
250 dollars for parts which I haven't ordered yet per mechanics advice.
She has
4 new tires on it. 1 year old
New brake rotors and pads all 4 wheels 1 year old
New hubs both sides on rear 1 1/2 years
New battery 2 years old
Plus work I did
6 new plugs
2 new ign coils
Clean egr system
Clean throttle body
2 trans fluid drain and fill w new filter
Full syn oil change and filter
New front L and R turn signal bulbs
So I asked her if she wanted to cut ties w the car and I thought she was gonna cry...
So idk what to do... I'm hoping God will speak thru the mechanic tomorrow and I will know what to do...
Are the Asian kits the TB kits you folks use for these cars? Prices run a huge gambit on rockauto amazon and ebay.
I've only done one timing belt in my life. Several chains. Lol
Got the harmonic balancer off. Tried impact then starter method. Heated bolt with OA torch and she came right of w impact.
Here are the compression numbers from this morning. Looks like she has acceptable compression and they are fairly even. 6 revolutions with battery charger and pedal to the floor.
number 1 intake chamber Moving forward i hope... #1 injector which was the dead cylinder #1 injector bottom stuck in motor. Idk why or if it matters All injectors had continuity I CANNOT GET THE FUEL LINE BROKEN LOOSE. The tab that holds the line still sheared off with little effort so mow the whole assembly spins loose from the regulator. What the heck can i do do get this loose. Heat it ? Lol
I tried to take a strainer basket off the top of the injector but it just broke. Idk what I'm doing wrong...or what I'm doing. Can someone chime in please. Thank you.
I CANNOT GET THE FUEL LINE BROKEN LOOSE. The tab that holds the line still sheared off with little effort so mow the whole assembly spins loose from the regulator. What the heck can i do do get this loose. Heat it ? Lol
Since the 'tab that holds the line still sheared off' (the fuel feed hose) you are going to need to hold the fuel feed hose still with something like a vice grips in order to break loose the fuel pulsation damper (the fitting with the plastic cap, above the pencil lead) with a wrench. The same applies when you reinstall. Or you have to purchase a new fuel feed hose that has the tab, #3 on the link below.
In addition, It may be prudent to download the 2G TL service manual, as a handy reference, before going forward. It truly is an invaluable source of info.
03-06-2019, 03:47 PM
I understand the 4x3 method since I did that for my Mazda 6. I dont know anything about the trans solenoid. Is that in the valve body? Dont know where the filter is either. I will look into it. Thanks for the Pro Tip!
I removed TB and cleaned MAP sensor with MAP cleaner. Cleaned IACV with carb cleaner. Cleaned TB which was the worst I have ever seen. Cleaned mating surfaces and installed new gasket. 
