neverlift17

I have checked all the fuses and everything looks fine, I also replaced the blower motor resistor and still nothing will come on please help??

Chojun

Turn your key in the ignition to the 'ON' position (not started though). Press and hold AUTO and OFF on the climate controls at the same time. '88' should flash on the display - let us know which part of the '88' segment stays on between flashes.

neverlift17

It flashes 88

neverlift17

well nevermind it flashes the bottom piece of the second 8

Chojun

Hey neverlift, your PM inbox is full so here's my response:

My car is actually doing the same exact thing. The error code corresponds with a problem in the blower motor circuit. I haven't fixed mine yet but I believe the part that needs to be replaced is associated with a white plastic one that is mounted to the underside of the glove box and has an electrical connector going into it.

There's some other members who have had the problem and say it was about $50 to replace from the dealer. I believe it's part #3 in this picture:

Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura

I have the service manual on my work computer - I'll check it and let you know tomorrow.

Hope it helps!

neverlift17

Thats weird i just made the account and have 1 message welcoming me to the forums lol but that is the part i replaced which is the blower motor resistor and it still isnt working is there a way to test the part its self or does the code (once you hold the auto and off) mean that the resistor is the issue

Chojun

Okay - here's the troubleshooting steps from the service manual:





Part 1





Part 2





Part 3

EDIT: If you need any more information then let me know. Some of the connectors on here that the instructions are referring to are not immediately obvious.

01tl4tl

the plastic thing under front of glovebox is the Power supply to the blower motor
NOT its resistor (acura calls it a transistor),, which is located on back of mounting plate for blower motor- inside a finned cover piece (heat sink)

the plastic connector has a problem with wires getting loose or rusted and shorting out-
can even MELT thru the plastic allowing hot leads to touch = short

You have to unplug the connector to inspect both halves inside- and the back side of it.
Damage will be obvious if present.
You can eliminate the connector and solder in new wire sections to replace damaged parts

01tl4tl

Have you ckd for 12 volt power with a test light or meter?

neverlift17

I havent checked the voltage yet, i will after work! This is the part I replaced:


I noticed the pig tail that plugs into this which is white was discolored(light brown) where the female connectors are? so if i check the voltage in the pigtail that connects to the blower motor resistor/transistor (pictured above) i should be reading a steady 12 volts?

neverlift17

Is the blower motor 2p located under the dash? On the pig tail that plugs into this which is white was discolored(light brown) where the female connectors are, so if i check the voltage in the pigtail that connects to the blower motor resistor/transistor (pictured above) i should be reading a steady 12 volts? also which pin is power and are the 3 others ground or are they supplying power to something else??

Chojun

You'll test voltage on pin 2 of the connector (yellow/black wire) versus body ground. Should be 12 volts. If not the blower motor relay could be bad. If you connect pin 1 to ground using a jumper wire and turn on the key, the blower motor should turn on. I think the 2P connector is on the right side of the dash.. will verify in a bit. I have to run to a meeting.

Chojun

The 2P connector is somewhere on the right side of the dash, probably underneath. Or maybe even in the fuze compartment on that side.

It's item 'Q' in this picture. Item 'R' is the connector for the white power transistor, for reference.

neverlift17

awesome thanks! so pin 1 and 2 on the pig tail connecting to the resistor/transistor are both power wires? or is pin 1 just a ground

Chojun

Looks like pin 1/3 should be battery voltage, 5 should have continuity with ground. Pin 3 goes to the gate on the transistor, I guess that's what the control unit uses to turn the blower on/off.

I would find the blower motor 2p connector and connect pin 1 to ground and turn your key on to rule out your blower motor having some kind of issue.

neverlift17

okay gotcha so does it go to the transistor and then to the 2p connector or are they on a different circuit

Chojun

Here's a (small) portion of the circuit diagram.

Pin 5 goes to ground, 1/3 are power transistor input voltage. If people are burning out their connectors I'd be interested to know which wire looks like it's burning.

neverlift17

well i think i found the issue.....
any idea what could have caused this Short to ground or an open? I know i can replace the 2p(Q) pig tail however i need to know if i can replace the male connecter on the blower motor that the pig tail plugs into, Or is the motor / connector one piece?? thanks in advance!

Chojun

Wow

I just pulled mine off to do some testing and my connector was looking pretty hammered, but nothing even remotely like that

I'd jump the wire to the connectors just to test as you may have a burnt-out motor as well.

EDIT: Do me a favor and, with your blower motor connector unplugged, do the diagnostic again. With mine unplugged I get another error on the display (middle of first '8'). If you do as well then my guess is that the problem is actually something else.

neverlift17

I left the transistor out as well and my brother is driving it today i will see if he can plug in the transistor and run the code!

Chojun

Update: For me, I just got to step 19 and got battery voltage on the connector. So it's a new blower motor for me. Yippee!

EDIT: I'm willing to bet that as the motor ages, the number of amps it draws goes up and that's what is burning our connectors. Everyone should inspect their connectors and if they look like they're burning up then it's time to get a new motor.

EDIT 2: This is what I'll be ordering:

http://www.autopartscheaper.com/1999...0k-a00-k33.htm

http://www.carparts.com/details/Acur...ydFRoCcnfw_wcB

neverlift17

what was it reading?? haha yeah ill probably be getting the same! whats the port on the opposite side of the connector is that just like a vent?

Chojun

The wire was reading 12.5V for me, which is battery voltage. According to the troubleshooting steps it means that the motor needs to be replaced. The backside port looks like maybe some kind of recirculation vent or something. The tube wraps to the front and up. Not sure where it goes..??

TLer trash

One note of caution. With any aftermarket motor, check the rotation before you install it. There have been a couple people here that have gotten motors that spin backwards.

01tl4tl

the problem starts with the main power connector for blower motor- just under front edge of glovebox
The wires to it are stretched kinda tight and the connector itself seems to have issues.
Cut out the main connector- solder in new wires to the motor

A power surge caused the melting FIRE inside the plastic, its been loose for a while then finally made its way to full ground,
OFTEN takes out the `transistor` -really a resistor that allows you to reduce power to blower motor = for lower fan speeds

If it makes you feel better,, this problem goes all the way back to the Honda motorcycles of the 80s using same connectors
on the MAIN POWER from stator (alternator) into the main wire harness

Guess what happens when 50 AMPS gets loose!...and FIRE comes from under the seat, as the engine suddenly quits...

Emergency Prayer Motor fully engaged~

Amazing how fast you can stop from 70, dismount the bike-AND get it on the sidestand!

So examine the wires- cut back some of its sheath to find undamaged section and make the splice there.
Always solder and cover with shrink wrap - rather than butt connectors - on those power leads