New DW-1 trans fluid
#41
Moderator
Used AMSOIL ATF Syn............. My tranny puked, Then it Died. Literally
Aside from Costing me 3K on my 1st Rebuilt.
Excellent ATF Oil Fast Shifting (No Smooths Here) and Excellent Cold Shifting while it Remained at the Tranny.
Aside from Costing me 3K on my 1st Rebuilt.
Excellent ATF Oil Fast Shifting (No Smooths Here) and Excellent Cold Shifting while it Remained at the Tranny.
Last edited by Skirmich; 08-21-2011 at 08:53 PM.
#42
I just did a 3X3 change and used the regular Amsoil shown on the right. The trans shifts just as smoothly as it did when the car was new, and is performing well. I did the change 2 days before driving from Vancouver to LA/Riverside and am on my way back. 3000 km later and the trans is fine. The car is a 03 TL A-Spec and has 73,000 km (around 45,000 mi).
#43
Senior Moderator
But that doesn't mean it died from the fluid.
#45
Here is my story...
2003 Acura TL Type-S, 122,700 miles. (original transmission, no oil jet kit)
1st ATF change at dealer, 66,500
Recently started to become aware of some rough shifts, the fluid was looking pretty dark and figured it was time to change it. The reason I never did was from hearing stories of changing fluid could be disasterous.
So, I purchased 4qts of the new Acura ATF DW-1. Instead of doing a 3x3 change, I decided to do a drain and fill first to see how it reacts.
Immediately after filling and starting to drive, I noticed an immediate, drastic improvement in shifting. It feels like a new car. I have driven about 300 miles so far and it feels great.
In a few days I am going to do a full 3x3 drain and fill to replace ALL the old fluid (Z1) that is now mixed in with the new.
For the record, I never drive the car using SS mode, I simply put the car in D4 and go. Been this was since I got the car in March 2005 with 18,500 miles on it.
I will keep you all updated. Special thanks to 01tl4tl for all his professional insight, expertise and help.
You all rule!!!
2003 Acura TL Type-S, 122,700 miles. (original transmission, no oil jet kit)
1st ATF change at dealer, 66,500
Recently started to become aware of some rough shifts, the fluid was looking pretty dark and figured it was time to change it. The reason I never did was from hearing stories of changing fluid could be disasterous.
So, I purchased 4qts of the new Acura ATF DW-1. Instead of doing a 3x3 change, I decided to do a drain and fill first to see how it reacts.
Immediately after filling and starting to drive, I noticed an immediate, drastic improvement in shifting. It feels like a new car. I have driven about 300 miles so far and it feels great.
In a few days I am going to do a full 3x3 drain and fill to replace ALL the old fluid (Z1) that is now mixed in with the new.
For the record, I never drive the car using SS mode, I simply put the car in D4 and go. Been this was since I got the car in March 2005 with 18,500 miles on it.
I will keep you all updated. Special thanks to 01tl4tl for all his professional insight, expertise and help.
You all rule!!!
#46
Banned
Here is my story...
2003 Acura TL Type-S, 122,700 miles. (original transmission, no oil jet kit)
1st ATF change at dealer, 66,500
Recently started to become aware of some rough shifts, the fluid was looking pretty dark and figured it was time to change it. The reason I never did was from hearing stories of changing fluid could be disasterous.
So, I purchased 4qts of the new Acura ATF DW-1. Instead of doing a 3x3 change, I decided to do a drain and fill first to see how it reacts.
Immediately after filling and starting to drive, I noticed an immediate, drastic improvement in shifting. It feels like a new car. I have driven about 300 miles so far and it feels great.
In a few days I am going to do a full 3x3 drain and fill to replace ALL the old fluid (Z1) that is now mixed in with the new.
For the record, I never drive the car using SS mode, I simply put the car in D4 and go. Been this was since I got the car in March 2005 with 18,500 miles on it.
I will keep you all updated. Special thanks to 01tl4tl for all his professional insight, expertise and help.
You all rule!!!
2003 Acura TL Type-S, 122,700 miles. (original transmission, no oil jet kit)
1st ATF change at dealer, 66,500
Recently started to become aware of some rough shifts, the fluid was looking pretty dark and figured it was time to change it. The reason I never did was from hearing stories of changing fluid could be disasterous.
So, I purchased 4qts of the new Acura ATF DW-1. Instead of doing a 3x3 change, I decided to do a drain and fill first to see how it reacts.
Immediately after filling and starting to drive, I noticed an immediate, drastic improvement in shifting. It feels like a new car. I have driven about 300 miles so far and it feels great.
In a few days I am going to do a full 3x3 drain and fill to replace ALL the old fluid (Z1) that is now mixed in with the new.
For the record, I never drive the car using SS mode, I simply put the car in D4 and go. Been this was since I got the car in March 2005 with 18,500 miles on it.
I will keep you all updated. Special thanks to 01tl4tl for all his professional insight, expertise and help.
You all rule!!!
#48
uummmm possibly missing 5th gear?!
D4 works well for traffic in town/freeway where it keeps it from hunting for 5th at 45mph
otherwise use of D5 allows it into overdrive for improved mpg in normal freeway driving
are you saying your 2003 has only 4 forward gears?
the big question- WHY dont you have the oil jet kit?
D4 works well for traffic in town/freeway where it keeps it from hunting for 5th at 45mph
otherwise use of D5 allows it into overdrive for improved mpg in normal freeway driving
are you saying your 2003 has only 4 forward gears?
the big question- WHY dont you have the oil jet kit?
#49
UPDATE: I now have just over 5500km on the Amsoil ATF in the trans and am happy with the way the trans is shifting and working. This was my first ATF change on a '03 A-Spec, and the car has the jet kit. There was nothing wrong with the operation of the trans to begin with. I did not change the external filter but will at the next change.
As a matter of precaution, I intend to do a drain and fill (3X1) every year, as the mileage on the car tends to be low, presently at just over 75000 km.
As a matter of precaution, I intend to do a drain and fill (3X1) every year, as the mileage on the car tends to be low, presently at just over 75000 km.
#51
To be honest, it's a mixture of never making the time for it, and if it's not broke don't fix it. I know I know, it technically IS broken, but i'm also scared that once the techs start touching it, etc something will go wrong.
Do you think once they do the boroscope inspection, they will definitely find heat damage, and if so offer me a replacement transmission?
Do you think once they do the boroscope inspection, they will definitely find heat damage, and if so offer me a replacement transmission?
#52
heat damage guaranteed? that depends on a lot of factors,,,
call the 800 and talk with local service or parts manager NOT the service writers or phone girl
ask if they will still cover it under recall, if not you can buy the kit pretty cheap
They dont mess with the trans- just install the line
not having it installed is asking for the 2nd gear set to break while you are driving,,
its pretty exciting for a few seconds~
especially for the person behind you!
call the 800 and talk with local service or parts manager NOT the service writers or phone girl
ask if they will still cover it under recall, if not you can buy the kit pretty cheap
They dont mess with the trans- just install the line
not having it installed is asking for the 2nd gear set to break while you are driving,,
its pretty exciting for a few seconds~
especially for the person behind you!
#53
are you sure its in D4 not D5 normally?
its really an 03??, not a 99 which came with 4 speed
its really an 03??, not a 99 which came with 4 speed
#54
#55
#56
why have you been driving in D4 is our question?
do you never leave the city streets with their 45 mph limits?
on the freeway you are hurting yourself, D5 drops the rpm a good 500+
do you never leave the city streets with their 45 mph limits?
on the freeway you are hurting yourself, D5 drops the rpm a good 500+
#57
did a drain and fill the other day and like a dumbass only bought 3 quarts now i'm a tad low, well acura gave me z1 @ 11 dollars, went to honda today to get another quart and all they had was dw1 for 9 dollars go figure, anyway is there any reservations to adding the dw1 to the z1; parts guy said it mixes but i think i trust the ziners better
#58
Racer
ATF DW-1 is designed to improve transmission performance in cold ambient temperatures, which improves fuel economy. ATF DW-1 is the factory fill oil for all 2011, and newer, Honda models. DW-1 is backwards compatible.
#60
Advanced
The jet kit sticks out of the fill hole, should be fairly easy to spot if you know where the fill hole is.
You can also check your recall status, if it shows it's been fixed then the jet kit has been installed.
3x3 means you drain 3.4 approx quarts, fill back up, drive it for a bit, repeat x2 more times and it replaces approximate 90% of the fluid, it takes approx 10 complete drain fills to get closer to 100%. You can't drain all the fluid at once because it is stuck inside the torque converter, but approx 3.1-3.4 quarts should drain out if you have it properly filled.
It's also important to put back in as much as you take out, then check the dipstick to make sure it's close to the marks, get out on the highway, drive for 15-20 minutes at normal highway speeds, pull off on a level surface, turn off the engine and check again, the level should be between the 2 dots. If it's not in the middle, either add or drain fluid to get to that level. It's also very important to maintain this level, but only check it after the 15-20 minute drive. Checking cold or after city driving won't give you the correct levels.
BTC
You can also check your recall status, if it shows it's been fixed then the jet kit has been installed.
3x3 means you drain 3.4 approx quarts, fill back up, drive it for a bit, repeat x2 more times and it replaces approximate 90% of the fluid, it takes approx 10 complete drain fills to get closer to 100%. You can't drain all the fluid at once because it is stuck inside the torque converter, but approx 3.1-3.4 quarts should drain out if you have it properly filled.
It's also important to put back in as much as you take out, then check the dipstick to make sure it's close to the marks, get out on the highway, drive for 15-20 minutes at normal highway speeds, pull off on a level surface, turn off the engine and check again, the level should be between the 2 dots. If it's not in the middle, either add or drain fluid to get to that level. It's also very important to maintain this level, but only check it after the 15-20 minute drive. Checking cold or after city driving won't give you the correct levels.
BTC
#61
Advanced
Trans fluid flush machine
I work for Lexus as a tech and we have a flush machine. I believe that would take the fluid out of the whole trans and replace it with the adequate amount acura recommends. or is this a bad idea for acuras?
#62
Advanced
Apparently some Acura dealers now have a flush machine that they recommend, but it would be the only one I would trust.
Biggest issue is you don't want any other fluids into your transmission, Lexus flush machine wouldn't have DW1 fluid in it.
There are some other reasons that other members have posted, I'm to much of a noob to get more detailed.
Several other members have posted that flushing seemed to cause their transmissions to fail sooner as well, tho they may have already been on borrowed time.
BTC
Biggest issue is you don't want any other fluids into your transmission, Lexus flush machine wouldn't have DW1 fluid in it.
There are some other reasons that other members have posted, I'm to much of a noob to get more detailed.
Several other members have posted that flushing seemed to cause their transmissions to fail sooner as well, tho they may have already been on borrowed time.
BTC
#63
Racer
Honda recommends against using flush machines on their vehicles. The best method is to drain and fill three times in succession. There are a number of reasons not to use a machine, but the ONLY one that really matters ... AHMC recommendation against it and the fact that any damage wouldn't be covered by warranty.
#65
Advanced
It redirects the flow of fluid over the 2nd gear to prevent overheating. Without it at highway speeds it can overheat and break causing your transmission to either lock up or at least bring you to a quick stop possibly causing an accident.
Unfortunately they couldn't get it to also point at the 3rd gear and keep it cool too.
BTC
Unfortunately they couldn't get it to also point at the 3rd gear and keep it cool too.
BTC
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