mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

Ok so when I repin them where am I connecting them to? Is it from the harness under the dash to the rear of the car? Not sure specifically on where to locate what needs to be plugged in. I've got the service manual for the 03 CL so I could probably refer to the electrical area there unless it needs to be for the TL. But yea the big one is that high engine idle which hopefully the TPS will fix but if not I'm gonna have to troubleshoot further and see about a vac leak

Yea I'm on the true manual swap and not running the richie module.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

The connectors that aren't plugged in are next to the driver's side fusebox. They don't go into the fusebox, but they just connect to each other next to it.

You will need the Electric troubleshooting manual. The regular service manual won't have the detailed info you need. I can scan the sheets you need. Also, I can make a video of what you need to do if you don't know how to repin (very simple process).

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

Ok so THOSE wires. Makes perfect sense haha dude that would be awesome if you could scan that for me. I'd greatly appreciate that. I've done some repinning before with wires but a video would help more because I'm not that good at it.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

Another question since we're on the topic of things. What did you do about your windows? My driver side seems to be the only one that rolls down even with the key out and the car off. Like constant power to that window somehow. What I got from that is when I checked the subharness on the passenger side that plugs to the fusebox (the connector has 22 pins, 20 pins and 2 pins; 2 green harnesses, 1 grey) the wiring was cut and soldered wrong with no connection which leads to powering the passenger side windows and seats and could be another reason they dont work maybe? I've ordered a new sub harness already so replacing that could hopefully fix the issue? Just thought I'd ask to see if you had to do anything different to get them to work.

fsttyms1

I had to Repin and tap into the wires in the car to get the rear windows and if I remember the locks to function properly. Everything that doesn't work either needs to be repinned or plugged in (which typically involves repinning)

Here are some of my notes I made while figuring out the wiring. It may help some

http://m265.photobucket.com/albums/fsttyms1/conversion/

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

thanks again! Makes a big difference knowin I have to tap into the wires and not just repin them, silly me. I've repinned cruise control already so I'll have to get started on the windows and door locks. And I'm also going to assume its the same deal for the seats? Repinning and tapping? Thanks again guys

fsttyms1

Yep. Anything that doesnt work needs repining, or tapping. The other issue is the radio. The stock TL system is vastly different than the CL and much of it needs new wiring all together.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

For the radio I remember you telling me before that all you did was tap into the speaker wire into the door and then it worked. The radio I have now (well aftermarket deck more specifically) is non-operant because the wire harness was shot, therefore I'm buying a brand new deck with a new wire harness to plug into the connector in the body. From there, I will also tap into the speaker wire in the door in order to be able to hear the music, right?

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

Ok, so I've begun the process to replace the TPS sensor on the TB but I've run into an issue. In the instructions for replacing the TPS it states that you need to remove the TB. as I'm going to remove my TB from the IM, it seems that it won't come off due to the way the threads are locked in and idk if this is how its supposed to be or not but this is how it looks and its preventing me from detaching the TB.






I circled in red where the bolts are that are the problem and am not quite sure if I'm going to be able to remove it. Cause I know I'm not supposed to pry it out from the IM? According to the helms manual it shows this



Again, the red is what its supposed to look like and that isn't how the bolts line up on mine because it seems like there needs to be a nut or something gripping it from the IM side in order to spin the bolt out from the TB to detach. Unless I'm just completely wrong? I just feel like it shouldn't be this difficult to take it off because it's pretty straight forward. All hoses are unplugged, and sensors unplugged that need to be in order for it to come off but it just won't come off. Any suggestions?

On a side note, I was also thinking of just leaving everything as is for now (TB connected to IM) and just dremmeling the TPS out from there still attached? It is doable but I'm not sure if the TB needs to be removed for any certain reason for this.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

You're missing a nut at the ends of those bolts it seems.

I think what you need to do is double nut it. Put on two nuts and spin them on as far as they can go. Then, using a wrench, spin out the inner nut. The outer nut will stop the inner nut from spinning out, so the whole screw will spin out. That's what I've heard at least.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

yea I took out the nut prior to the picture from the TB side so that's why its missing if that's what you're getting at. But before I even did that the screw on the IM side didn't have a nut to begin with and that's what I circled in red. The only thing I'm worried about by double nutting is cross threading the bolts? Or no...either way I'm going to try the double nut method right now and see.

Also Karan, did you ever happen to get that scan sheet for the electrics on the EVAP sensor? I could really use that right now as I'm trying to get things going here for smog haha.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

the nuts aren't coming out so I'm going to just dremel the screws out from the TPS with it attached to the throttle body.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Yea, I looked over the manual, but the four wires are on different connectors. You'll be better off buying the electric service manuals for the cars, since you'll definitely want them for all of the other wiring as well.

MKSHFT

iTrader: (1)

try lightly tapping the TB with a rubber mallet, it might just need a little budge. u shouldnt have to remove those studs to take off the TB.. it could be tight due it being the original TB gasket. i had some Bseries TB do the same thing in the past, i'd recommend cutting the tps screws with the TB off the car, it'll be a lot easier...

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

Alright thanks man! Will do that. Yea I'm looking through the service manual I have now and it isn't really specific at all as to where each wire goes exactly, it just denotes the harness, what it's for and where it goes

Yea that's what I figured cause I feel like there's no way to remove the studs from the TB anyways. But alright bro thanks for the advice I'll try giving it a few love taps and see what happens.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

TB is out and new TPS is in. went pretty smooth once it came off after a few whacks and tugs. Here are the pics







Out with the old ^









Scraped out the old gasket residue but I definitely need to clean up the TB plate and the inside as well cause its dirtyyyyyyyyy. Will definitely help her run healthier and stronger.



In with the new







After I removed the bolts off the old TPS this is it coming out



The slits I made with a dremel in order to take the bolts out. Messed up the first one as you can see but still made it work



Old gasket

inside the TB where the TPS used to be





Lol....





Then it got dark so I stopped for the night, not enough light to continue. Will post more progress tomorrow. Plan on testing the TPS out and ensuring voltage, then going to continue on rewiring the dash and hooking up a new radio/deck to the car.

Also, when tapping into the speaker wire to get sound coming from the deck, I just run a wire from ground on the aftermarket harness and splice into one of the wires from the speaker right?

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

I'm in the process of wiring up my new deck and had a few questions on the wiring. I've soldered the wires in the picture already but the ones that I'm not sure what to do with are the two orange wires which are for the illumination and the dimmer. on the deck side harness there is no orange wires to connect to. Also the light blue wire with a stripe on it that reads System Remote control is a negative wire circled in red and the blue wire on the aftermarket harness side reads power antenna and is positive I believe. Am I supposed to connect those?

The ones I have circled are the ones that I'm not sure where to connect to.



What I have soldered together already

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

also, what i was thinking of doing was splicing the two orange wires together to the ground wire from the blue connector side to the ground in the black connector side and then running a wire from that connection to the speaker wire in the doors. Would that work?

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

tapping into this wire from the speakers





The orange/black and then it leads to this connector in the fuse box



the one my finger is touching



and then I would splice and run a connection from that wire in the pic to the blue connector ground wire that plugs into the harness in the body? Hoping that would bring sound from the speakers

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

Having an issue on rewiring the EVAP system so I'm going to see if anyone can help clarify this.

Basically I've found which 4 wires run the EVAP system as denoted in this picture


the ones with the 3 red dots (the wires are LT GRN/WHT, BLU, LT GRN, BLK)
This is on the under dash left side of the car which lead to the left side wire harness to the rear of the driver side.

Now, I repinned wires from the new CL harness which came out of a small white connector (22 cavities) and took the wires shown here with the 3 red dots (LT GRN/WHT, BLU, LT GRN, BLK same as the body harness which run the EVAP)


And connected it to the connector shown in the same pic (C551 connector, Gray)

Now the problem is that even though I have these wires repinned to the connector, they seem to small to connect to the original body harness. I can try and hook it up but it doesn't lock properly. After discovering this, I went to grab the original connector on the '99 that the body connector shown in the first pic connected to and its like this



again the 3 red dots denote the necessary wires. Obviously their cut now but you can see the same wires in this connector are much thicker and bigger and when I plugged it into the body connector for testing purposes, it plugged right in. Here is the male side view of this connector



Now here is the one I have connected right now that won't fit





You can see the difference from the male side as the wires are really thin compared to the pic before.

Am I supposed to pin the smaller CL wires to a different connector? Seems like not because the only connector that will plug into the body connector is the one that is being used in both pics, but the wires just are too thin to connect. Any suggestions?

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, my 02 EVAP harness didn't have those huge pins. You could potentially just cut and solder the wires?

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

I thought about doing that but would it matter/function properly if the wires from the original harness are slightly larger than the ones from the CL? Like cutting and soldering bigger wires to smaller ones? Cause you can see the difference in size and slightly in color from one wire harness to the other.

Also, this pic I got from AllData shows there is a slight difference in wire placement from the 99-01 to the 02-03. This might be the reason your harness didn't have the huge pins like mine? You can see their in different cavity locations in the pics. Yours is 4,7,8,20 mine is 4,5,6,7 (both including ground) Idk?

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

still stuck on the EVAP and wondering if soldering the wires together will make a difference due to their slightly different wire sizes? Would help if anyone could chime in on that. Now, I'm finishing up the passenger side wiring and the only one I can't seem to find a place for is this green one.




here is the AllData on the schematic on this particular connector.


Seems pretty vital to me since it has mainly stereo connections and a few fuse connections as well.

Everything else in that area is plugged in already besides one other white 6 pin connector but its small and doesn't have any necessary function, so I'm leaving it unplugged. Just can't figure this green one out and the EVAP system from the driver side.

AznWay

iTrader: (8)

Keep up good work Twin
Men there a lot wire that got to redone ( just take a lot pic to keep the next guy )

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

thanks bro just tryna be as detailed as possible for others who happen to go through the same predicaments. plus there aren't too many detailed threads on the wiring that's required to get these running straight without the richie module.

Also turns out the wires aren't that different in size, its just the pin at the end that's too small to fit into the connector on the body. So I'm going to splice and solder the wires from the left side in this picture onto the wires on the right, so I will cut off the pins on the right side wires cause their too small.





I'll post pics after its finished and hopefully I'll be able to connect it properly and get rid of that EVAP CEL code.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

Got the wires soldered together and it fits! Now I just hope it works once its all plugged back in and the car is back on. The only thing I'm not sure what to do with are the extra wires that have no place to go from the CL harness that I didn't splice which are the ones free hanging on the left side of this picture vvv



some more solder work



correct size pins



test fitting to the body connector, looks good! you can see all the EVAP wires plugged in as well which are the lt grn/wht, blue, lt grn and blk wires.





Now to plug back in the connectors, bolt back in the grounds, charge up my dead battery and see what little kinks are left to fix once I can test connections again.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

Almost forgot about this 5 pin connector (C554) if you are doing the true manual conversion.



repinning to the connector C551 on the left



connecting to this



all out and wires exposed





Red wire repins into position 3 on the new connector (for fuse 2) blue wire repins to position 11 on connector (for fuse 4) black wire to position 7 (for g501) ground white/red wire to position 9 (for seat heaters) and not sure about the white wire yet (says for circuit 250 on alldata)

repinned

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

fixed my evap system got rid of the CEL and got my gas gauge working again! fixed my tps sensor and got it hooked up after testing the voltage correctly to .45 volts. wired up my radio the wrong way and the wires started smoking so I'll have to fix that another time lol. driver power seats are working again as well.

now, before fixing the TPS my idle would stay at 3k RPM, as you guys saw in the video i made before. however, after switching the tps and fixing it my main problem i have now is when i start the car the idle starts bouncing and revving on its own without my foot on the gas pedal between 1000-2500 RPMs it just goes up and down and up and down. i was reading up on a few threads and from what I've collected is that it can either be the IACV (which I'm pretty sure it is), the TPS (which I doubt cause I just replaced) a vac leak or a dirty tb.

then, i disconnected the IACV and started the car and the idle was revving rapidly between 1500-1600 RPM. plugged it back in and cleared a CEL code that popped up and it went back to revving between 1000-2500.

I plan on cleaning the IACV and the tb checking for vac leaks and then see from there? Hoping to get this fixed and running right!

Any other tips? Thanks guys.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/mu...37117.mp4.html

Here's a link to a video of the symptoms I'm having. A little easier to see it visually than through reading.

AznWay

iTrader: (8)

Last time my car idle like that, it was throttle body being dirty an clog. Clean it out an it was all good. But with your car it could be anything maybe the wiring. The main problem an reason why i didn't do full swap was B/C 99 TL was a pro-type year. A lot little things on 99 are different from 00-03 mainly interior wiring. The 99 wires are more like 98-02 Accord V6 from what i have learn. Keep all your extra pigtail an plugs they always come in handy when added new part from 02-03.

Keep Up Good work bro

BTW: I will be doing another 6speed swap in near future this info above will help me out alot

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

Yea...well I know the wiring was different between the 99 and the 00-03 models but do you think that the wiring would cause the motor to be running like that? I feel like it would be a sensor that's putting the idle out of whack but then again I don't know. I guess I'm going to find out once I clean the IACV and TB. I'm hoping the problem is that easy to fix, but then again you never know...

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

UPDATE:

cleaned the IACV out yesterday (was really dirty and could tell its never been removed or cleaned before) and still having the same problems, i.e bouncing idle between 1k-2.5k rpms. Going to just replace it today and see if this fixes the idle.

got rid of my other CELs as well (P0450 for EVAP and P0122 for TPS sensor) but some say the TPS code is related to the IACV as well because it relates to both so it could still have indicated that besides the TPS the IACV was bad as well. although the code is now cleared. I've seen others pull up P0505 for the idle control valve malfunctioning but that hasn't popped up for me which is weird. Either way hopefully replacing the unit will fix it.

Also still had a P0219 for Engine Overspeed and I understand this is related to valves being either bent or out of adjustment. Since the new motor I never adjusted the valves and I'm sure they aren't bent because I don't drive the car hard. Also understand that the ECU stores the code for P0219 so it could have happened anytime throughout the motors life (even before my ownership) so I just reset that code.

Will update later

nats007

Awesome progress man! Keep it up! I was considering a 6 speed swap for the Mrs. TL.

For the IACV, I'd recommended try clening it again. I had a similar issue on my RSX and I had to clean it several times. I ended up soaking it in carb cleaner several times. The inside spindle has to spin freely.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

That's wassup man. Yea I cleaned it like 3-4 times before re-installing it and soaked it too for like 2 mins between each scrub. Wasn't able to take off the sensor to try and let the spindle spin freely so I just decided to replace the whole unit.

fsttyms1

Take some carb cleaner and with the motor running, spray around the tb. If your rpm changes you have a vac leak.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

did that too. no rpm change after spraying the carb cleaner around the TB area.

UPDATE:

Changed the IACV out and when I start the car the idle is perfect it sits just under 1k rpm. However, when I give it any load like turning my steering wheel or giving it gas, then it starts to act up again, but this time on a smaller scale of RPMs starting from 1000 and revving between 1300-1500 at a slower rate.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

UPDATE: as of 8/20/13

Turned out to be the TPS that was causing the idle to fluctuate the way it did under load. It was off adjustment by .01!!!! Craziest shit ever! I thought nothing of it when I was adjusting it when I reinstalled the TPS and it was .46 volts after tightening it down instead of staying at .45 and figured it wasn't going to affect it much.

Also she just passed smog with flying colors and runs perfect the way it should! Only thing left to do is figure out the passenger power seats and the passenger front and driver rear window and everything will be perfect. Other than that she runs perfect, vtec is louder than ever (scary) and is healthier than ever and am glad to bring this swap dilemma to an end.

Thanks for everyone's help and input it was much appreciated and couldn't have done it without you guys. Deuces for now!

Vrezanyj

mugenspire

Please tell me where to buy a manual transmission from Acura Cl 6 speed ?

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

Great to hear everything is coming along Teo!

fsttyms1

They are very rare and hard to come by. You need to search salvage yards and ebay.