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Thinking of going forced induction, how much power can the AV6 transmission handle? I know the stock trans would die on stock hp, how about an extra 75hp from a supercharger on a AV6?
Thinking of going forced induction, how much power can the AV6 transmission handle? I know the stock trans would die on stock hp, how about an extra 75hp from a supercharger on a AV6?
I've seen a person running a 3.5l engine with a number of mods so you should be good. If you want it to last keep the fluid changed and don't use sport shift to down shift.
Thinking of going forced induction, how much power can the AV6 transmission handle? I know the stock trans would die on stock hp, how about an extra 75hp from a supercharger on a AV6?
HP had nothing to do with the trans failing. It wasnt failing because a part was weak or there was too much hp.
the third gear clutch packs would wear out prematurely i thought was the problem. I think more hp will definetley speed that process up. But that doesn't really answer the question, how much power is the AV6 transmission good for?
I've seen a person running a 3.5l engine with a number of mods so you should be good. If you want it to last keep the fluid changed and don't use sport shift to down shift.
yea i do trans fluid drain and fill every 30k. So downshifting with SS kills your trans because it wears the clutches out faster? is that the problem? if so, would blipping the throttle right before the downshift help with the wear. I mean that what you would do with a manual transmission, I can time it right usually when i hit downshift on ss and blip the throttle to rev match so the engagement isn't so rough
yea i do trans fluid drain and fill every 30k. So downshifting with SS kills your trans because it wears the clutches out faster? is that the problem? if so, would blipping the throttle right before the downshift help with the wear. I mean that what you would do with a manual transmission, I can time it right usually when i hit downshift on ss and blip the throttle to rev match so the engagement isn't so rough
You want it to engage quickly so there is less slipping preventing it from wearing out clutch packs. Anytime you do a high rpm downshift you are putting a ton of wear and heat on the clutch packs which will make them fail quicker. I only ever use it to shift up never down. Use the brakes to slow the car not the engine and transmission. Also I would switch the fluid at least every 20k miles. I switch mine every 10,000
the third gear clutch packs would wear out prematurely i thought was the problem. I think more hp will definetley speed that process up. But that doesn't really answer the question, how much power is the AV6 transmission good for?
Yes, it wears out. But that was from the lack of cooling ability, not because of hp. It has NO problem holding the power, the heat comes from the shifting in and out of. Heat is a big no no which causes premature wear. That wear turns into small debris that plugs up solenoids causing the shifting to not have as much pressure for the clutchpack resulting in more slipping during shifting thus creating more heat.
Just to ask a question, do you know what clutchpacks are or look like and how they work?
And to answer your question, there should be no reason it couldnt handle a SC. But having said that i have come to the conclusion that honda doesnt know how to build an automatic trans and should outsource it.
You want it to engage quickly so there is less slipping preventing it from wearing out clutch packs. Anytime you do a high rpm downshift you are putting a ton of wear and heat on the clutch packs which will make them fail quicker. I only ever use it to shift up never down. Use the brakes to slow the car not the engine and transmission. Also I would switch the fluid at least every 20k miles. I switch mine every 10,000
Up shifting will usually cause more heat as there is a longer period of constant power going thru them
yea i do trans fluid drain and fill every 30k. So downshifting with SS kills your trans because it wears the clutches out faster? is that the problem? if so, would blipping the throttle right before the downshift help with the wear. I mean that what you would do with a manual transmission, I can time it right usually when i hit downshift on ss and blip the throttle to rev match so the engagement isn't so rough
That is done on a manual so that its not a jerky transition, and really brought on from racing so that the instant rpm change didnt cause the wheels to lock up. Doing it on a auto has little effect as there are multiple gears involved that are spinning and clutchpacks holding them and letting go. The big wear comes from the upshift where one should let off during that to minimize the slipping.
That is done on a manual so that its not a jerky transition, and really brought on from racing so that the instant rpm change didnt cause the wheels to lock up. Doing it on a auto has little effect as there are multiple gears involved that are spinning and clutchpacks holding them and letting go. The big wear comes from the upshift where one should let off during that to minimize the slipping.
Yes, i know it comes from racing... ive been racing rx7s for years. i obviously know that the transmission can hold the power (as in not slip), but more hp will definetly create more heat in the clutchpacks, so with your logic, a transmission that can't handle the heat will fail early. but you insist on saying that the transmission can handle the extra power fine. I disagree, i think the stock tl transmission would fail way too soon to be considered to "handle the extra power from the ss"
Yes, i know it comes from racing... ive been racing rx7s for years. i obviously know that the transmission can hold the power (as in not slip), but more hp will definetly create more heat in the clutchpacks, so with your logic, a transmission that can't handle the heat will fail early. but you insist on saying that the transmission can handle the extra power fine. I disagree, i think the stock tl transmission would fail way too soon to be considered to "handle the extra power from the ss"
I dont think you are reading what i wrote correctly. Yes, The heat comes during the shifting. But Noting is failing because its weak or cant handle the power. The clutchpacks arent failing from the power. Like i said, its the shifting that causes it. It doesnt matter if its the 225hp base engine or the 260hp type-s engine (they both had the same failure rate), the clutch packs simply cant get enough coolant to keep them cool. Failures were more to do with the conditions of where and how it was driven. Sure, more power will have the ability to generate more heat, but the overall hp is not the reason its going to fail ie.. cause the clutchpacks to fail or not hold. Ive seen 500hp on these trans. They can handle it. They are actually very strong. The areas where there is constant up and down shifting thru 3rd is the main killer to them, usually city type driving. Now if you are boosted and constantly under full load during the 2-3 shift, yes that can have an effect on trans life. But if you were to put in a better trans fluid like redline, clean the solenoids often you will greatly minimize the damage and failure to the trans. Oh and this is ALSO part of the reason one would want the upgraded ECU that Acura was swapping out with the trans. It firmed up the shifting so that there was less slip.
I dont think you are reading what i wrote correctly. Yes, The heat comes during the shifting. But Noting is failing because its weak or cant handle the power. The clutchpacks arent failing from the power. Like i said, its the shifting that causes it. It doesnt matter if its the 225hp base engine or the 260hp type-s engine (they both had the same failure rate), the clutch packs simply cant get enough coolant to keep them cool. Failures were more to do with the conditions of where and how it was driven. Sure, more power will have the ability to generate more heat, but the overall hp is not the reason its going to fail ie.. cause the clutchpacks to fail or not hold. Ive seen 500hp on these trans. They can handle it. They are actually very strong. The areas where there is constant up and down shifting thru 3rd is the main killer to them, usually city type driving. Now if you are boosted and constantly under full load during the 2-3 shift, yes that can have an effect on trans life. But if you were to put in a better trans fluid like redline, clean the solenoids often you will greatly minimize the damage and failure to the trans. Oh and this is ALSO part of the reason one would want the upgraded ECU that Acura was swapping out with the trans. It firmed up the shifting so that there was less slip.
Old thread I know, but where would one get ahold of the upgraded ecu?
If you're serious about making the tranny last then upgrade the trans valve body with Sonnax parts to deal with the lack of lubrication to the clutch packs. Which causes the heat that leads to trans failure.
01-09-2013, 11:18 AM
