Keep radio codes when replacing battery
#1
Keep radio codes when replacing battery
Hello all. The battery my 2002 TL-s is getting weak and I will be replacing it. In order not to have to disconnect the radio antenna to get the radio working again, what would be the best place to attach a 12 VDC power source before disconnecting the old battery? I have a regulated 12 VDC power supply and also a regular car battery charger. Would either of these work?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Did you have to do the antenna trick last time the batt was changed?
The alternative is drive to an underground level or bottom of multi level parking garage/shopping mall parking tower
When the signal is blocked by the concrete mass, the radio will usually take the code then
the battery store has used a point under the hood at firewall ands attached 2 clips, likely the main fuse but I am not certain
The last time they plugged a device into the ecu port in front of the shifter- inside the car
iirc the dash power outlet is tied to key ON, so not sure that will help
Electrical gurus, now that I have completely confused the OP, who can give a decent answer
Where is Erick - mr helpful diagram tonight!?
The alternative is drive to an underground level or bottom of multi level parking garage/shopping mall parking tower
When the signal is blocked by the concrete mass, the radio will usually take the code then
the battery store has used a point under the hood at firewall ands attached 2 clips, likely the main fuse but I am not certain
The last time they plugged a device into the ecu port in front of the shifter- inside the car
iirc the dash power outlet is tied to key ON, so not sure that will help
Electrical gurus, now that I have completely confused the OP, who can give a decent answer
Where is Erick - mr helpful diagram tonight!?
#3
I live in an area with several high power radio stations nearby and no deep parking garage. Last time I had the battery changed I requested they attach a power source but they did not (Sears) and I ended up having to dis-assemble half of the console to get to the radio antenna to unplug it.
#4
I would try what you are thinking with the power source attached. Make sure it is fused in case something goes wrong. Wear appropriate safety gear too. I have an 80 amp 12V supply for just such occasions (luckily never had to use it, and of course you need less than an amp when you are just swapping the battery with the car off)...
Last edited by thelastaspec; 03-03-2015 at 11:30 AM.
#5
Mr.Helpful Diagram
Here I am, lol
There was another suggestion to disconnect the antenna by the rear glass.
Also the accessory socket is in the same circuit as the radio so that should work.
You can try both methods, Im assuming you have the code in hand.
There was another suggestion to disconnect the antenna by the rear glass.
Also the accessory socket is in the same circuit as the radio so that should work.
You can try both methods, Im assuming you have the code in hand.
#6
If you have the jump starter power pack that plugs into the cig socket, then that will hold the memeries while swaping out the battery. And this is a similar one for 9v.
#7
If you use the accessory outlet, the key has to be in the accessory or on position on most honda vehicles. You could also use the stud in the under-hood fuse block that the battery supplies.
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#8
I have tried disconnecting the antenna at the rear glass on another occasion, but radio signals here at too strong. I will try to fuse box under the hood and see if I can find a point to clip onto. Where abouts is the fuse box located?
I really dont want to leave the key on when changing the battery, otherwise I would use the aux power outlet.
I really dont want to leave the key on when changing the battery, otherwise I would use the aux power outlet.
#9
I have tried disconnecting the antenna at the rear glass on another occasion, but radio signals here at too strong. I will try to fuse box under the hood and see if I can find a point to clip onto. Where abouts is the fuse box located?
I really dont want to leave the key on when changing the battery, otherwise I would use the aux power outlet.
I really dont want to leave the key on when changing the battery, otherwise I would use the aux power outlet.
I personally would stick one to ground, one with a small clip to the + terminal cable.
The car draws almost nothing when the key is off, just enough to keep the memory of the ECU, radio code / position memory, blink the alarm lights, remote receiver, etc.
#10
I mis-spoke, it's a bolt, not a stud. Follow the smaller wire off the battery positive terminal. It leads to the underhood fuse/relay block, where it terminates at a 120A fuse. This fuse is held in by 2 6mm bolts with 10mm hex heads. Put your positive clamp on either one, and the negative clamp on any good ground.
#11
I mis-spoke, it's a bolt, not a stud. Follow the smaller wire off the battery positive terminal. It leads to the underhood fuse/relay block, where it terminates at a 120A fuse. This fuse is held in by 2 6mm bolts with 10mm hex heads. Put your positive clamp on either one, and the negative clamp on any good ground.
The following users liked this post:
TLer trash (03-03-2015)
#12
Thanks to all who replied. Used the connection point in the under the hood fuse box TLer trash suggested along with my standard battery charger and it worked like a champ. Got my new battery in (Duralast Platinum 34) and radio still working.
Thanks again, saved me from ripping half of the console apart to get to the radio antenna.
Thanks again, saved me from ripping half of the console apart to get to the radio antenna.
The following users liked this post:
TLer trash (03-04-2015)
#13
Thanks to all who replied. Used the connection point in the under the hood fuse box TLer trash suggested along with my standard battery charger and it worked like a champ. Got my new battery in (Duralast Platinum 34) and radio still working.
Thanks again, saved me from ripping half of the console apart to get to the radio antenna.
Thanks again, saved me from ripping half of the console apart to get to the radio antenna.
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