Yikes

Just pulled into the driveway after spending $1068 after tax to get my timing belt service done.

I open the hood to inspect the new belts and I find this:




What you're looking at is the A/C alternator idler pulley and belt respectively. (I know the image is horrible)

On the idler there is some black discoloration. The worse of it isn't even pictured. I know that happens when the idler begins to wiggle. The kicker is, is that there was absolutely no discoloration on the belt or idler two days ago when I dropped my car off. Is it simply coincidence that the idler is just now failing after they replaced the belt or is the tension too tight? What is going on? Further more how much will it cost me if they have to take the entire thing apart again to replace the idler?

So do I bring my car back tomorrow and request it be fixed? So pissed off right now...

webmastir

For that price, you could've gone to the stealership

01tl4tl

when you take the tension off one of these spring type devices- it tends to fail when put back in use, especially when 10+ years old

its a simple job- a few ziners had this part fail recently and diy'd the replacement
average time in shop to do-15-60 actual minutes, depending on experience and sobriety

I suggest replacement off all the belts and tensioners when doing the timing belt

The big question is: was the tbelt tensioner replaced???

01tl4tl

its an auto tension device, cant adjust it too tight or too loose,
only put the bolts on poorly and cause warpage at base

Yikes

The following was replaced:

Timing belt
Water pump
Timing idler pulleys
Timing belt tensioner
Cam & crank seals
Alternator & A/C belts
Oil pump seal (it was leaking pretty good)

So basically the part has failed and it needs to be replaced?

How much labor is involved in replacing it?

3.2TLc

^^^ Yeah, to save money......most buy the complete "Aisin" T-belt kit for our car's motor for about $200 and then find a reputable mechanic to install it for approximately $300. If ya look around and do your homework.....T-belt servicing can be done for less than $600 out the door.

In your case, were the accessory drive belts replaced or the old ones reinstalled ? It appears to be either an alignment or tension issue, IDK. As 01tl4tl previously stated.....it's a good time to replace other associated parts when performing the T-belt replacement. Everything is already opened up, and it's normally just the added expense of parts only. Rubber belts and hoses, along with tensioners have served their useful life and it's good PM to replace them at this time. Do it all right and it'll last for another 100k.

Yikes

They were replaced with brand new belts.

I called 7 different shops in my area, including the dealership. The cheapest price was $706 with use of aftermarket parts and re-using the old tensioner and idlers. That price did not include the accessory belts.

dwmead86

Over $1000?! Good god. My local Acura dealer only charges $600!

Yikes

Mine wanted $1250 and the Honda dealer wanted $800.

fsttyms1

Mine has looked like that for 600k miles now. Personally i wouldnt be concerned or care about that.

01tl4tl

is it making noise thunk thunk thunk like no other noise heard before?
then replace it
figure an hours labor
ask the shop if they spin tested it and looked at back for signs of grease?

they did a good job with the rest of it based on parts
have you replaced the spark plugs?

you guys with 600 dollar places, where do you live?

Skirmich

DAMNNNNN that rip off! My local Honda dealership wanted 650 labor + parts included...

TLZINE99

$1,000 Sounds about right for
Timing belt
Water pump
Timing idler pulleys
Timing belt tensioner
Cam & crank seals
Alternator & A/C belts
Oil pump seal

DJMikeT

I just did this same repair to my 2001 TL

Timing belt
Water pump
Timing idler pulleys
Timing belt tensioner
Cam and Rear Main Seal (Crank)
Alternator & A/C belts
Main belt tensioner
Power Steering Belt
Oil pump seal

Also replace torque converter seal and both output shaft seals while I was at it.

Spent about $250 in parts plus a little more for oil and tranny fluid and honda bond.

So in all about $300 tops.

Dealership wanted $2000 for this job (took it in for a quote out of curiousity)

I must admit it was an labor intensive job which took me about 4 days total but I was taking my time with it since we have 3 vehicles.

Getting everything disconnected to drop the tranny was the most work.

It pays to be a DIYer and you learn a lot about your vehicle as well from working on it.

It gets easier for me each time I do it.

Should be good for at least another 100K

If you get someone else to do your work make darn sure you tell you them exactly what you expect to be done and you don't want any surprise charges like shop rags etc....

DJMikeT

Oh BTW, that Belt Tensioner is really easy to replace. It can be done in about 30 minutes. Just remove your splash guard and tire on the passenger side so you can see what you are doing.

Remove your belt and then remove the tensioner which has 3 bolts holding it to your engine block.

Got my tensioner from Rock Auto for $42.89

I would never pay someone over $200 (including the tensioner), as it's a cake walk to repair.

Skirmich

Drop the trans? No wonder the 2K Quote..... This job we are talking here it's called timing belt job and it usually just means changing all stuff related to T Belt function.. ACC Belt, ACC Tensioner, PS Belt and Seals are ALL OPTIONAL!!!! Rear Seal? That's not even in the same page., Not even in the same Universe as it involves dropping the Trans. Nobody in this planet would charge less than 700 bucks just from Dropping the Trans.. 1K is in Order for Dropping the Trans in almost all Shops Around Me, And BTW only people changing rear seals are the one with Leaks makes no sense from a Maintenance POV to Change a Functioning Rear Seal.

This job cost 650 bucks Labor + Parts at Honda from El Centro, CA. Acura usually charges an extra from being luxury BS... 2K for this Job? Nope, never...

DJMikeT

Damn dude, what's up with the hostility?

I was simply stating what I did to repair my issues on my car and how much money you can save by doing things yourself.

The first thing I did was change out the timing belt and the o-ring behind the oil pump because of the leak.

However I had other leaks and need to replace the rear main seal on the other side of the engine.

So what if it's not related to the timing belt, I was just adding what I had to do and what I spent in parts and how much I saved in labor by being a DIYer.

Just the Timing Belt and Oil Pump leak would have been $1000 alone.

I changed all the other "Optional Seals" since I had everything apart.

You need to get off your high horse or whatever the heck you think you're on and take a chill pill!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

p.s. I just bought the timing belt kit from rockauto.com for $130.

3.2TLc

The complete "Aisin" T-belt and component set for our 2nd Gens is more expensive than the 3rd Gens.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

still found it for around the same price

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,carc...onent_Kit.html

3.2TLc

Looks like the "AISIN" T-belt kit # TKH001 is currently $202.79 for our 2nd Gen models.

Still a good deal....for the real McCoy with oem parts.

bigcocoon

Must be different prices in different states - Oakland Acura and Concord Acura (I am in the east bay area) are $1600 for timing belt (Did my Type S with Concord for that price). Paid $600 at a local smaller shop for my 2G.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

I couldn't pull the accessory belt tensioner even with the engine removed. Easily removed all three bolts, and there should have been nothing holding it to the block.

That sucker just WOULDN'T budge no matter what. Not sure what I was doing wrong.

Yikes

I took it to the shop this morning. The tech told me it's nothing to worry about, so I guess my mind is at ease... for now.

Hood struts, tail lamp gaskets, P/S flush, brake rotors, and motor mounts are still on my list f to-dos, among other things. However a 20 year old college student can only make so much money over one summer, so most of those are going to have to wait.

I think I'm going to go for the P/S flush and brake flush next... Off to the DIY section! I've searched previously and found conflicting results.

Can I use ATF to clean out the P/S despite how picky Honda P/S systems are? Anyone have a link for a DIY on how to flush?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the Gates kit is as equally as good as the Asin kit

3.2TLc

Gates T-belt kit # CKWP286 for our next best choice on the 2nd Gens is priced at $138.79
It should serve most common folk's purpose for a car the age of ours !!! Thanks

Find somebody experienced to help or pay a shop 4-5 hours labor, $300-$400 for installing.

wrayman

3.2TLc is right on with his recommendation. I had the Gates kit installed about a year ago...great quality, and no issues whatsoever afterward. My shop was impressed with the kit as well.


Cheers....
Mike

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

p.s.

I'm stuck on the crank bolt.

Ive rented the Honda Crank bolt "holder" tool, have 2 breaker bars, car is jacked up on stands.

ahh!
I need to go buy an extension.

I was combining extensions and they were bending in the middle from the torque.
good job!! just thinking out loud.



My Gates kit came in today.


Please disregard the part number. this is for the 3rd gen.

DJMikeT

Hey justnspace,

This might help you on your crankbolt and it's how I got mine loose without any issues.

First I used CRC Knock'er Loose and let it soak in real good overnight.


Secondly I have a Aircat 1150 High Torque impact wrench,
I know it's not practical for everyone to buy one but made life really easy for removing the bolt and I'll use it for many other things in the future.


I used the holder tool you have and right before I hit the bolt with the impact I used a Mapp Gas torch and heated the bolt for about a minute or so.

Then I hit it with the impact and it came off like butter. Those bolts are really torqued (around 600FT Pounds) from the factory and if it's the first time to remove it will be hard.

Made my life much simpler, hope this helps you out. Even without the impact the Knock'er Loose and Heat will help out a lot.

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Use the starter to break it loose!

DJMikeT

I would highly recommend "NOT" using that method!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I cant use the starter method!!!
my engine is halfway dissembled

I'm removing the heads.
one of the last steps to removing the heads is removing the timing belt.

once i get the timing belt off, i can replace the heads and put a new timing belt back on

Yikes

Heat it up with an acetylene torch. Propane won't get it hot enough.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I'm about to grab a torch.

3.2TLc

^^^ Better get a friend with a compressor and impact air gun tool, IMO.
Ya need more "MF,n" torque-power, or go with 3/4" drive !!!

DJMikeT

I second his advice, a high torque impact will make that job a breeze or a 3/4 breaker for more leverage.

fsttyms1

This is a tried and true method for these engines that works great and no one has ever had a issue doing it.

fsttyms1

Yea, only if you have a larger than 60 gallon air compressor and are using 3/8 hose and fittings.

3.2TLc

Yeah, this method can be done easily and successfully if used with care.

Ya just gotta take the time to think it out, and realize the potential for dangerous harm to one's self or car.

Ac921ol

alright, was just quoted $300 for getting the job done, and looks like im going to be buying the Gates kit for $138.

While he is doing the timing belt should I swap anything else out??