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Physically they appear to be the same, I'm just wondering if power output is different. Also wondering if the cam swap will affect spark plug selection.
Yeah, all this J35 talk has peak my interest too. Anyone with insight please feel free to share.
Which motor will be faster in a 2g TL and how about mpg? Will the J35 get as good a mpg as the J32A2, which the EPA estimates at around 28mpg.
If the opportunity requires me to change the engine in a 2g TLP. I would like to upgrade the pistons in the TLP with TLS pistons and hopefully get the higher compression of the TLS, close to 260 hp and at the same time gain in mpg... 28. Keep in mind that I would only be swapping the bottom end of the motor and nothing else. A simple straight swap no mods but gaining close to 20 hp and 4 mpg with just a simple TLS/CLS piston swap.
Yeah, all this J35 talk has peak my interest too. Anyone with insight please feel free to share.
Which motor will be faster in a 2g TL and how about mpg? Will the J35 get as good a mpg as the J32A2, which the EPA estimates at around 28mpg.
If the opportunity requires me to change the engine in a 2g TLP. I would like to upgrade the pistons in the TLP with TLS pistons and hopefully get the higher compression of the TLS, close to 260 hp and at the same time gain in mpg... 28. Keep in mind that I would only be swapping the bottom end of the motor and nothing else. A simple straight swap no mods but gaining close to 20 hp and 4 mpg with just a simple TLS/CLS piston swap.
Again J35A3 vs J32A2?
Correction, gains of close to 35 HP and 4 MPG.
I'm not to concern with the flow of the head because I'm not racing the car. At 80 mph the motor is at 2500 rpm or less (TLP/CLS) so flow is not really a factor for me. I tend to do more high speed touring than red lining the RPM.
The high MPG should be fairly accurate due to the higher compression of both J35 or Type S.
Does anybody know if the TLP ECM will work with the motor of the J35 or Type S?
Time for some swappage!
Autoplicity screwed up my DC header order which doesn't come until wed. UGH! I'm going to wait on reinstalling the motor until I get the headers on rather than fight it while in the car.
Sooo..., Iggy. I guess you're slightly stalled with the installation because of the header delay?
I'm not to concern with the flow of the head because I'm not racing the car. At 80 mph the motor is at 2500 rpm or less (TLP/CLS) so flow is not really a factor for me. I tend to do more high speed touring than red lining the RPM.
The high MPG should be fairly accurate due to the higher compression of both J35 or Type S.
Does anybody know if the TLP ECM will work with the motor of the J35 or Type S?
With your stock harness you won't have any issues with your stock ECU.
Still trying to figure out what the reason is to go through all the work to slightly bump compression (assuming more power) but then use the "weaker" heads? Kind of negating the compression bump, no?
Sooo..., Iggy. I guess you're slightly stalled with the installation because of the header delay?
Yup. Motor is ready to go in except for the headers. I have some other oddsnends though. Rear motor mount, upper control arms etc. I did smooth out the lower intake runners, dunno how much it'll help but it certainly can't hurt.
My wife snapped this shaking her head the whole time. LOL
You are going to have one hellava highway cruising 'road warrior' there, good for 200K at least , when you finish up!
Just an FYI. Check the inner surfaces of the header pipes at the manifold plates when they arrive. Not sure about the DC's; however, IIRC back in the day when I received my CT-E one's, I remember finding some 'rough' edges/surfaces and such that I lightly smoothed out with a dermal to help smooth the flow.
One day, Darksyne, you and I both will have garages as spacious as the one Iggy has. Then we can put crazy engines into our decade-old vehicles as well!
You might want to check your headers to see if they need to be port matched to your heads. I have DC Sports on a J32A1, and the collector ports of my headers were smaller than the corresponding exhaust ports on my heads, resulting in a hard 90° lip where the header flange overlapped each exhaust port.
You might want to check your headers to see if they need to be port matched to your heads. I have DC Sports on a J32A1, and the collector ports of my headers were smaller than the corresponding exhaust ports on my heads, resulting in a hard 90° lip where the header flange overlapped each exhaust port.
Thanks for the tip. Headers are due to arrive anytime now. I'll check them over real well.
Cant really say, Mine is still working.. I would try to fix it though, You can probably salvage one from an Accord at a local junkyard since they use the cat in the same place as our TL.
Speaking of heat shielding, my cat shield is fried. I may try to weld some patches to repair it or should I just leave it off?
Full stainless steel and aluminum shielding on magnaflow cat.
Quality OEM materials lol
If your cat shields are anything like mine then you should be ok with some quick patch work lol and this was after it had already been replaced by Acura because the old one rusted and fell off 10 years ago.
Or you can do what I did and get a magnaflow cat because their shields are aluminum on one side and stainless steel on the other and overall great build quality.
If you want the most out of your project look into the magnaflow cats I got mine for $240 Canadian taxes in from Amazon and they free up the exhaust a bit without making it sound raspy.
^^ That Magnaflow direct bolt-in cat is a really nice unit. I installed DC Sports headers on my TL-S not too long ago along with the Federal emissions Magnaflow cat and I really like that combo as far as the exhaust note goes with the stock cat-back. The Federal cat also flows a little bit better than the California emissions OEM unit.
If you can, I'd recommend throwing some header wrap on them. Our engine bays get really hot and it'll help with heat soak.
I don't recommend wrapping headers unless they're made of cast iron or something. The DC headers are ceramic coated T409 stainless steel and the ceramic is designed to trap some heat in the exhaust to prevent it from escaping.
If you wrap your stainless steel exhaust especially on T304 stainless steel you'll trap too much heat and exhaust gas and if the headers get too hot they'll be prone to cracking.
That's why in the disclaimer in the package in our DC Sports headers says "Header wrapping of anykind (typo) used on any DC Sports header will void your warranty".
Header wraps trap too much heat in for stainless steel headers and can damage them if they get too hot.
Install went smoothly. I pulled the fuel pump fuse and turned it over without the spark plugs until the oil light went out to prime the oil system, then ran the fuel pump to check for leaks. Damn thing fired right up with no delay. It's quieter and smoother than the older motor so I think I've got a winner.
First impression is it definitely pulls stronger, especially lower speeds in 3rd gear and also in 4th on the highway. Out of the gate I got more wheel chirp from 1st to 2nd for sure but ran out of room for 3rd. I redlined it several times and the cylinder heads seem ok with it with no strange noises. I'm glad I spent the money and went back to an OEM rear motor mount because it idles so smoothly now, but 'm sure the smoother running motor contributes. All in all, this was a really fun project and I'm glad I did it and thanks to all you guys for your support!
Couldn't resist a shot of the blued headers with some humor
02-24-2018, 09:09 AM
, when you finish up!
