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Picked up a J35A3 from an 02 MDX with 116k miles to swap with my old 320k J32A2. Hand pulling I got compressions of 155psi +/-5 across all 6 cylinders so it seems like a healthy motor.
Here's the plan:
new Aisin belt kit (TKH-001)
new DC headers (HHC5528)
swap cams from my A2(cylinder heads will be left alone)
swap water manifolds(w/new gaskets and orings)
delete IM spacer
cam seals
rear main seal
new OEM rear eng. mount (I've had it with the steering wheel vibrations at idle with the aftermarket mount)
Here's a couple questions:
1- Is it easier to pull the engine with or without the trans attached?
2- Does it make sense to use the lower mileage J35A3 rocker assemblies and LMA's
3- Am I correct in thinking that with the more aggressive J32A2 cam there will be a higher cylinder pressure with increased air volume(not comp. ratio is fixed)? If so, does that affect which spark plug I use?
4- What octane fuel should I plan to use?
5- Any other words of wisdom? A3 Dissasembled A3 cams
NICEEEEEEEEEEE
Better than completely deleting the IM Spacer get it machined so that you can close the hood, The extra space will give you more low end torque and slightly shift the power band.
You can also get the heads machined (I dont recall by how much) to raise the J35A3 compression to J32A2 standards, This will get you even more power.
NICEEEEEEEEEEE
Better than completely deleting the IM Spacer get it machined so that you can close the hood, The extra space will give you more low end torque and slightly shift the power band.
You can also get the heads machined (I dont recall by how much) to raise the J35A3 compression to J32A2 standards, This will get you even more power.
Do the piston faces from the J35A3 have deep enough valve reliefs to allow the valves to clear with J32A2 cams and milled heads?
If it has not already been researched, the following is what 03 tls nc states (difference between J35A3&J32A2) that he did in regards to milling the heads and then some:
Originally Posted by 03 tls nc
Both blocks are the same. The only difference in the oil pumps is the pressure valve and spring, the J32A2 parts can be purchased for around $20. The coolant crossover manifold is different but can be made to work. The EGR valves are different and must correspond to the appropriate ECU. Of course the crank, rods and pistons are different. J35A3 has forged crank and rods but they are not comparable to after market forged rods but still better than cast (J32A2 has forged crank only). The heads are the same castings and use the same valve seats even thought the J32 uses a 1mm larger intake vale (with a valve job the smaller valve will flow more, due to less shrouding). Lost motion assemblies were updated for the 03 J32. The cams and springs are different (J32 springs are considerably stronger). The intake of the J35 utilizes are 1" spacer between the upper and lower runners and the upper intake is the same between the two with the exception of the longer trumpets used on the J35 (produces more torque below peak). The TBs are the same with the exception of the MAP sensors and the corresponding MAP sensor must be used with the correct TB (both use the same plug).
If forced induction is in your future use the J35A3. Clean up the casting marks in the intake tract but do not increase the size and enjoy the lower static compression and cams with less over lap. (upgrade the oil pressure spring and valve for good measure)
For some NA fun on the cheap start with J35A3 use J32A2 cams and springs, port from the J35A3 IM to the valves, valve job and mill the head. (.010" is approximately equal to 0.25:1 static compression with J35 rotating assembly). I milled mine to 0.030" with no valve clearance issues and an estimated 10.75:1 static compression (no issues achieving correct mechanical timing with 0.030" milled). I also upgraded the oil pressure spring and valve in the bottom of the oil pump.
Assuming that even if you don't separate the heads and run the long block as is replacing all exterior seals and gaskets only makes good since. Since you have to pull the pan to replace the the gaskets behind the oil pump and pickup, removing one allen plug and dropping the J32A2 oil pressure spring and valve in place is some really cheap insurance.
Any problem using the J32 IM ? Only physical difference I can tell is the J35 has longer horns. Does one breath better than the other?
J32A2 vs J35A3 IM's
Originally Posted by 03 tls nc
The intake of the J35 utilizes are 1" spacer between the upper and lower runners and the upper intake is the same between the two with the exception of the longer trumpets used on the J35 (produces more torque below peak).
Man, gnuts; that's like, what, +/- an hour from you? Go up and 'lock it in' for $650, hook it up to CAA to keep that axle happy, done.
Another, like $1200, if that, for a J35A3 and an AV6 tranny and you are golden.
Haha. Maybe in a few years. I've never done major work and nothing close to an engine removal, but I'd love to just go for it. Get a manual and plug away. Have something fun to rip around in.
Autoplicity screwed up my DC header order which doesn't come until wed. UGH! I'm going to wait on reinstalling the motor until I get the headers on rather than fight it while in the car.
Is there an easy way to oil prime this motor while it's on the stand? I've hand turned it quite a bit already and will need to turn it even more for the valve adjust and timing belt. should I even worry about it?
02-20-2018, 06:42 PM
