JMAL

Today I changed my tie rods at 81k miles. My Driver side Bellows boot was ripped, and the inner tie rod was a mess. I have no idea how long that was like that. I had started to notice a vague steering center and a wandering around the road especially on imperfections.

I used Moog parts, and ordered from RockAuto. Note, I was only able to get the bellows boot from the dealer ( about $14 bucks) and i got new bellow bands (2.40 each) they are easy to damage on removal.

Be safe and get an alignment right after!

I did not have all the right tools but got it all done.

Tools:
Compressor/Impact gun
2x 2 ton jack stands
1 high lift floor jack
wheel chocks
rubber mallet
hammer
channel lock pliers (ergo sears ones with the fine adjustments was a blessing)
adjustable monkey wrenches
threadlocker (blue)
needle nose pliers
scissors
17mm socket
small flat screw driver or similar to remove cotter pins and bellows bands


Prep:
Jack car up super high, set on the jack stands. I left the jack as a safety and a rim with a 2x4 on it for the other safety. remove front wheels.

my process: pick a side to do first.
If only removing the outer tie rod:
1 Remove cotter pin on tie rod end
2 Mark/count the threads on the outer tie rod so you can try to get it as close to spec as you can.
3 Break loose the jam nut on the tie rod end (pain in the a$$ see alternate version of this at the bottom)
4 Remove the bolt from the tie rod end that connects the spindle.
5 Give the spindle a few wacks with a hammer or rubber mallet right where the tie rod end goes through. I hit it a few times then tapped the end out with the rubber mallet. It should pop out.
5 As a back up count the number of rotations it takes to remove the tie rod end so you have another way to keep it close to spec.
6 Remove tie rod end and jam nut
7 Replace with new jam nut, and line up with the original markings
8 Replace the tie rod end and use the number of rotations to gauge it. Should be just about exact to the jam nut.
9 Align the end through the spindle (up through bottom)
use the new hardware to get it on nice and strong
10 holding the tie rod , tighten jam nut.

If doing the inner tie rod as well:
Do steps 1 - 6 from above then...

7 remove small clamp that hold the outer part of the boot (reusable)
8 pop off the inner bellows band (replace with new, very easy to damage)
9 slide off boot
10 you can use a inner tie rod tool if you can find one. I could not find a place to rent on that worked for the car. harbor freight has one for about 40 bucks but it isnt that hard to get it off. (the jam nut was the absolute worst part of this process). I used the ergo channel locks, and with mild elbow grease they came off no problem. turning the wheel left and right can help you get a better position so try that out.
11 there will be a rubber seal on the rack when you take off the inner tie rod, save it or leave it where it is.
transfer the marking or equivalent distance from the old inner tie rod to the new one.
12 i put blue thread locker on the short threads that go into the rack
13 replace the inner tie rod with the spacer tabs pointed toward the rack
14 tighten with the tool of choice
15 slide on boot and click into the groove
16 place the small clamp back on the boot
17 turn the wheel so that there is no pull on the boot as your slide it back over the rack housing and attach it with the bellow band (annoying to get bellow band tight)
18 follow 7 -10 above
19 repeat on other side
20 get alignment

My issues that came up:
- my boot was torn ( dealer only part) normally reusable
- i had to clean the driver side rack of sut from torn boot exposure and i used dura blend to grease it a little after i cleaned the mess up

Alternative to getting tie rod ends off and jam nuts:
This is only if you are replacing both ends and inners!

Buy new boots and bands: This will cost you about 33 bucks more but it will save you soo much pain and time if you dont have the advantage of having the car on a lift and getting serious leverage to open the jams nuts.

Instead of removing the ends, remove the small clamp on the boot and the inner band. then cut off the boot and take the tie rod end and inner off in one shot right off the rack.

mark the locations and distances on the new inner tie rod. I cut the threaded part after i was done measuring and retrieved the small clamp on one side the first side i used pipe wrenches and finally got them apart and got the clamp( cutting was just as fast with a sawzall.

then replace the assembly as above. If you are not planning on reusing parts and order the bellows parts ahead of time, i highly suggest this way.


let me know if you have questions.

JMAL

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

the rust , that does not look like fun with that amount of rust lol

dudeinaTL

iTrader: (1)

Two words: P B

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

i know, but we don't get that rust here in colorado like that , mine still looks new but just covered in dust and road grime though

FirePR2002

^^baller

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

instead we replace windshields on a regular basis (couple of years) for only like $200 a pop (mine is an exception though still being origional with 113k on it)
and clearbras does wounders for the front end also, front end and windshield litially get sand blasted over the winter (not bare though, but kinda pointless to have a freashly painted bumper though)

phee

iTrader: (5)

sticky!!!

sbuswell

I just changed my inner and outer tie rods on both sides. The inners were shots and so was one outer. Put all new Moogs in. I counter the turns on one side, but couldn't get the jam nut loose on one side because it was seriously seized so I cut it in half with my sawzall right after the jamb nut. I couldn't count the turns on the drivers side so I had to guess and decided to use the same number of turns as the passenger side which was 14. Anyway put the wheels back on and pulled it out of my driveway and went to back up and cut the wheel and I believe my tire(s) is now hitting the wheel well. Anyway I can't 100% confirm it's hitting the wheel well, but it sounds like it is and it's putting some pretty good resistance on turning the wheel farther once it hits. Could the uneven tie rod installation be causing the tire to hit something else? I will be getting an alignment tomorrow morning, but wanted to see if I need to be worried about anything else. Any ideas?

sbuswell

Well I'm a dumbass. In my haste I put the tie rod ends on the wrong damn side. Just swapped them, no damage sustained at all. I need a few beers to help me forget how stupid am I right now.

Jamus22

Hi Guys,

I have a question. When I had my car serviced at the dealer, they told me that my driver side outer tie-rod needs attention. I am not sure if they actually took a look at it by or if they are just going by the play on the steering wheel but I want to make sure that it's the outer tie rod and not the the part that is circled on the image which is attached.

As you can see from the image, there is a noticeable play up and down which I've circled on the image. I thought the outer tie-rod was the one that is circled on the bottom. What exactly would I have to replace to resolve the up & down play for the portion that is circled at the top of the image?

Thanks.

3.2TLc

Hey Jamus22, that's the upper ball joint that you have circled. There should be no play what-so-ever there. If so, it needs to be replaced ! The actual control arm (which contains the BJ) will pivot on the back side near the strut, where it's mounted. The tie rod ends, if worn will cause the car to wander.

JMAL

Jamus22,

The upper circle is your upper ball joint. the lower circle is where the inner tie rod attaches to the outer.

How many miles do you have on them? does the car creak?

If you have noticeable play in the upper circle get your ball joints changed. do the tie rods while you are at it. Its easy and pretty cheap. get moog parts.

Skirmich

How much Work it is Involved in the Tie Rod Ends if I for Example have changed my Ball Joints?? I have neglected so much and I believe My Passenger Rod End is Toasted...
I get this Noise every time I hit an uneven road with bad tarmac like a high pitched sound and If I turn the wheel with the car off I can feel this play in it like it isnt fully attached to the knukles < Is that my Rod End?

JMAL

probably both ball joints and tie rods. they are both wear and tear parts. i would change them all. Tie rods arent bad, the ball joints can be a huge pain if there is a lot of rust.

Skirmich

I changed my Ball joints Recently they where completely gone (All 4) but I didnt changed my Rod Ends becouse I tought it would be more Difficult than the ball Joints...
BUT That play I mentioned didnt dissapear with Ball Joints! If I have my Car turn off and play with the wheel a little I can hear a Small "Click" with only a slight movement to the right and if I turn the other side I can feel like it has this little momentum when the wheels doesnt move at all...

JMAL

ball joints arent that hard. get all new inner and outer, follow my instructions above and you are all set. if its super rusty might be a pain but its not bad at all. and tie rods arent very expensive so might as well change them all. I suggest using zip ties instead of bellow bands. also if you cant find the bellow boots, get from dealer. they are cheap.

i would do it, it cant hurt.

Skirmich

Nah Luckily most of my Suspension is Rust Free soo Might as well give it a Try... Thanks for the DIY tough! Its going to help..

Jamus22

I have 116,000 miles on it. Don't recall any creaking while driving. I'll have to check for it again. However, as I said originally, there is noticeable play on the steering wheel when turning the steering wheel.

Yes, there is definitely a noticeable play on the upper ball joints. I will be changing the ball joints as well as the tie rods on the driver side. Can I skip on the passenger side or is this a bad idea? I'm thinking they need to be changed in pairs. Thanks.

3.2TLc

Hey Jamus22, with 116k and over 10 yrs on the original parts, have the other side inspected for wear also. The chances are that even if they are presently ok, it won't be long before they also go bad.

When replacing the driver's side UBJ and in/out tie rods, the tools will be already out....so you may get a break on doing both sides at the same time. It'll tighten up your steering and save tire wear, after an alignment. Get the "MOOG" brand replacement parts with greasable lube fittings and you'll never have to worry about future looseness.

fulla

Hi. I noticed yesterday I have ps fluid comming out of my driver side boot on the rack and pinion. I have searched everywhere and cannot find an answer to: can you just replace a seal at the end of the rack or do I need to replace the whole rack? I have an 04 tl with 70,359 miles on it. Thanks for any help and a link to replacing the seal or the whole rack would be great. Thanks again.

3.2TLc

Hey Fulla, welcome to Acurazine !
I noticed that you have an '04 TL, which is considered a "3rd Gen" model.
This is the "2nd Gen", ('99-'03 models) which you've posted within. You may have better luck if you try reposting in the "3rd Gen Forum".

As far as your question, my guess is that your rack assembly may need a closer inspection for any internal leaks. Good luck, hopefully you'll get it fixed up soon !

Chickscan2

I had to get tires put on my car and they told me my tie rods were dangerously bad and needed to be changed now ever since the car shakes like crazy unless I pull the wheel to the right, I have had to do this for a little while until I could get the money to fix the problem, now when I go to turn either way the steering wheel makes a loud "POP" then continues to turn. I have almost hit others while driving cause of this. When looking for the part I finally found the inner, outer, and the steering column/rack for a good price, the guy would only sell all three cause he said they had to be fixed together. I knew I had to fix the tie rods and the info was very helpful on how to change just the tie rods but the guy that sold me the parts said on a 96 Acura TL 3.2 the inner tie rod is apart of the steering column so it all needed to be changed as well is that true or was I just scammed into buying more parts?? That's my first question my second question is how do you change the steering column?? If the part has to be changed then I kinda need to know and if I was scammed into more parts then it couldn't hurt to change it since I have the part right?? Please help I really need to know

3.2TLc

Welcome Chickscan2 !!!
So, are we talking about a 1st Gen '96 TL or what ???

Anyways, the tie rods can be replaced separate from the whole column/rack as ya mentioned. The outer tie rods can be purchased in aftermarket sources for around $50 or so.

IMO, ya don't want to be buying used parts when doing this job. The "DIY" is simple enough for replacing tie rod ends or even the inners.....but why would anyone want to even consider replacement of a perfectly good rack if it wasn't necessary ???

Sorry, but I think that ya may have unknowingly been scammed, IMO.

NYanks78

Does anyone know the torque specs for the inner and outer tie rods? Thanks