How To Replace 01 Motor Mounts
#41
yes, I know about the Poly mounts, but don't want the known vibration effects because this TL is not driven "hard" at all.
Does anyone have real-life experience going from a Vac mount, to a (lower cost) non-vac front Mount such as the A4519 ?? Any observations or changes?
Also, have non-vac mounts (such as A4519) last longer than OEM vacuum?
Anyone actually do it???
Does anyone have real-life experience going from a Vac mount, to a (lower cost) non-vac front Mount such as the A4519 ?? Any observations or changes?
Also, have non-vac mounts (such as A4519) last longer than OEM vacuum?
Anyone actually do it???
#42
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
OEM mounts fail no matter how hard you drive it. I'm not 100% sure but I'd imagine a non vac assisted and non fluid filled mount would cause vibrations similar or more excessive than the XLR8 mostly due to lower quality IMO. At 300 for the set of 3 they're cheaper than OEM but more than the cheaper OEM style. Still a worthy investment knowing you will never need to do a motor mount again ever in life for the TL.
Last edited by MilwaukeeDave; 10-03-2012 at 08:11 AM.
#43
Thanks for your reply MDave. I agree, with XLR8 poly's you should never have to replace again!
But the A4519 is listed as: Front, Oem Hydraulic
So, it's evidently hydraulic "filled", just not "Vacuum assisted".
I found it new for $58 including S/H, so I think it's worth a shot.
I'll report back in about a week and let ya'll know how it looks and if I feel any new vibrations. Thanks.
But the A4519 is listed as: Front, Oem Hydraulic
So, it's evidently hydraulic "filled", just not "Vacuum assisted".
I found it new for $58 including S/H, so I think it's worth a shot.
I'll report back in about a week and let ya'll know how it looks and if I feel any new vibrations. Thanks.
#44
If you're gonna go with cheap aftermarket mounts, you might as well get the whole set of 5 mounts for $150 from ebay. They are vac assist. Several people have them here including me. No vibrations at all, and they made a huge difference over the old mounts. I can't believe how smooth the feel of the car is now.
You gotta replace the rear and side mounts too, otherwise your new front mount won't last too long after getting pulled all over the place.
You gotta replace the rear and side mounts too, otherwise your new front mount won't last too long after getting pulled all over the place.
Last edited by victus1; 10-03-2012 at 02:38 PM.
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3.2TLc (10-03-2012)
#45
yes, good point. I thought about replacing more than the front, but based on what I could see the rubber looks intact on the others. Would you recommend the seller you used? who was it?
#46
The rubber may look good on the others, but it's the age/mileage which kills them internally.
I think the seller was abcmarts, but there are other sellers with good scores too. The brand of the mounts is Motorking. This is the best bang for the buck as far as cheap aftermarket mounts are concerned. The package also comes with the 2 tranny mounts which I installed as well. It's not that hard for a diy for all 5 mounts. I did them all in one day.
I think the seller was abcmarts, but there are other sellers with good scores too. The brand of the mounts is Motorking. This is the best bang for the buck as far as cheap aftermarket mounts are concerned. The package also comes with the 2 tranny mounts which I installed as well. It's not that hard for a diy for all 5 mounts. I did them all in one day.
#47
Thanks for your reply MDave. I agree, with XLR8 poly's you should never have to replace again!
But the A4519 is listed as: Front, Oem Hydraulic
So, it's evidently hydraulic "filled", just not "Vacuum assisted".
I found it new for $58 including S/H, so I think it's worth a shot.
But the A4519 is listed as: Front, Oem Hydraulic
So, it's evidently hydraulic "filled", just not "Vacuum assisted".
I found it new for $58 including S/H, so I think it's worth a shot.
Hey Mike, alot depends on your expectations. If you want that smooth original ride......then definitely go with the hydraulic vacs.
But, keep in mind that at 10 years old plus 100k on the dial.....alot of other worn components will compromise that "like new" luxury ride. Another factor is how long you intend on keeping the car, that's why the "econo" aftermarket parts serve the basic essential needs for the short term.
The XLR8 poly's make sense if you want a durable option with a minimal sacrifice in comfort.
{Ya get what ya pay fer} ! What brand were the $58 ones ?
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stickwithjoe (03-05-2013)
#48
"What brand were the $58 ones ?"
Coincidently, as mentioned by victus1, its ABCMARTS. And the Brand is DEA. I checked DEA's website too.
I've ordered the front Hydraulic, but not VAC. Now I kind of wish I bought the set! I'll likely order at least the RightFront one next.
We don't absolutely need the like-new luxury ride cause the teenager driving it won't appreciate it, and she doesn't need tight Poly's either! So I think this is a good solution.
Coincidently, as mentioned by victus1, its ABCMARTS. And the Brand is DEA. I checked DEA's website too.
I've ordered the front Hydraulic, but not VAC. Now I kind of wish I bought the set! I'll likely order at least the RightFront one next.
We don't absolutely need the like-new luxury ride cause the teenager driving it won't appreciate it, and she doesn't need tight Poly's either! So I think this is a good solution.
#49
As earlier stated, the top passenger side should be checked closely. It usually takes the brunt of the torque force once the lower front mount goes south. The passenger side isn't very hard to do and is less than $50. There's no hydraulic or vac involved with it. Try Rock Auto, as they have several better brands to choose from.
PS: Maybe your daughter's boyfriend might appreciate the poly's....Ha, hah !
PS: Maybe your daughter's boyfriend might appreciate the poly's....Ha, hah !
#50
Advanced
"What brand were the $58 ones ?"
Coincidently, as mentioned by victus1, its ABCMARTS. And the Brand is DEA. I checked DEA's website too.
I've ordered the front Hydraulic, but not VAC. Now I kind of wish I bought the set! I'll likely order at least the RightFront one next.
We don't absolutely need the like-new luxury ride cause the teenager driving it won't appreciate it, and she doesn't need tight Poly's either! So I think this is a good solution.
Coincidently, as mentioned by victus1, its ABCMARTS. And the Brand is DEA. I checked DEA's website too.
I've ordered the front Hydraulic, but not VAC. Now I kind of wish I bought the set! I'll likely order at least the RightFront one next.
We don't absolutely need the like-new luxury ride cause the teenager driving it won't appreciate it, and she doesn't need tight Poly's either! So I think this is a good solution.
#51
Advanced
my bad. the one I installed is BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1041967 with description as " Includes Vacuum Line". so it's vac-assisted. it does has liquid inside when shaking it. I thought the mount has to be hydraulic to be assisted by vac line. but perhaps I am wrong.
#52
But I think you got it right now. "Hydraulic" models have fluid inside. Vacuum (with a tube) versions provide an assist that makes it stiffer under certain conditions.....
When buying replacements, we evidently can choose between:
Aftermarket Poly (stiffest), Hydraulic without Vac, Hydraulic with Vac (OEM for certain years), or a non-hydraulic (rubber only?) mount which is probably lowest cost! Oh yeah, people also DIY "Poly" some of the "oem" type mounts to supplement their stiffness or entirely replace the more compliant rubber.
There are pros & cons for each.... I'm just trying to figure it out too.... I went with Hydraulic, because I think it gives my situation the best bang for the buck....
Last edited by mike_engr; 10-03-2012 at 07:51 PM.
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stickwithjoe (03-05-2013)
#53
Here's an update. The front mount arrived in 4 days and it took 2.5 hrs to install, but I think I could do it faster in future. The label said "MotorKing 4519" and it had a tube under it, so I attached my OEM Vac Line. It looked great and I could also feel fluid motion inside when I shook it - - so I can assume it is both Hydraulic + Vac!
I used a short piece of 2x8 and a floor jack to lift up the engine/tranny seam. I didn't remove the battery or tray - - just pushed the top radiator hose sideways to get the mount in/out. My orig mount w/93k miles was torn (about 60% around) at the top of the rubber dome around the upper threaded Stud, but no tell-tale fluid had leaked!
We tested it already and the engine moves much less than before. I'm gonna order the side mount next and install it next week. If I had to do it again I'd take Victus1 and other's suggestions and just order the "full set" at once instead of individual pieces. Also, if the car was gonna be driven aggressively (or by me) I would probably have stepped up and gotten the full Poly set from XLR8 - - those look bullet proof!
I used a short piece of 2x8 and a floor jack to lift up the engine/tranny seam. I didn't remove the battery or tray - - just pushed the top radiator hose sideways to get the mount in/out. My orig mount w/93k miles was torn (about 60% around) at the top of the rubber dome around the upper threaded Stud, but no tell-tale fluid had leaked!
We tested it already and the engine moves much less than before. I'm gonna order the side mount next and install it next week. If I had to do it again I'd take Victus1 and other's suggestions and just order the "full set" at once instead of individual pieces. Also, if the car was gonna be driven aggressively (or by me) I would probably have stepped up and gotten the full Poly set from XLR8 - - those look bullet proof!
Last edited by mike_engr; 10-07-2012 at 07:22 AM.
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jliu6789 (10-07-2012)
#54
the dealership told me to change my front and right side motor mounts, I just purchased the side mount now can I install it first and then order the front and change it? Will it mess up the new mount since the front needs to be replaced too?
#55
You'll be fine. It's how I, and many others, have done it in the past. Just don't wait too long as your side mount will wear out quicker if it's the only good one left. Side mount is simple...front mount can be a bitch (at least the passenger side rear bolt is)
#57
If i have to replace both front and side motor mount and I just bought the side motor mount first can I replace it and wait and order the front motor mount or will that ruin the side motor mount since i have i replace the front too?
#58
It's best to replace both of them.....especially when known bad.
If ya just do the top side mount, it'll get torn up quickly due to the additional stress from the bad front mount.
If you're doing it yourself, ya just saved enough to pay for both of the mounts. Go for it, read the DIY's.
If ya just do the top side mount, it'll get torn up quickly due to the additional stress from the bad front mount.
If you're doing it yourself, ya just saved enough to pay for both of the mounts. Go for it, read the DIY's.
#59
Do the front mount first....the side one after. The side mount will easily get torn (just a piece of rubber in there) if the front mount is shot.
#60
Five months ago I did the front one first, and then realized that the side was torn too. So that's the order I did 'em.
But I think you can do them in any order, and you might find that a block of wood on a floorjack is required underneath to push up and align all the bolts properly.
But I think you can do them in any order, and you might find that a block of wood on a floorjack is required underneath to push up and align all the bolts properly.
#61
#62
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
Yea that is a MUST unless you enjoy replacing oil pans too. Ideally you'd like to replace all 3 mounts together so they wear evenly but it won't be a disaster if you don't. That side mount is a real POS from the factory and is pretty useless. I'm glad I got the XLR8 mounts because ill never need motor mounts on this car again!
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