Headlight replacement ?'s
#1
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
Thread Starter
Headlight replacement ?'s
I'm replacing my headlights next week. Is there any seals I need to replace. I saw somewhere you need to but I'm not sure which ones need to be replaced, it looks like there are two different ones
The following users liked this post:
Stephen00TL (02-27-2013)
The following users liked this post:
Stephen00TL (02-27-2013)
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#8
If they're not leaking now, I wouldn't touch them. I don't believe there is a rubber seal around the bulb holder, at least I didn't see one. You don't have to remove the headlight pod to change the bulbs.
If you have condensation inside the pod(s), then you have no choice.
Make sure you have a Torx Security driver !
If you have condensation inside the pod(s), then you have no choice.
Make sure you have a Torx Security driver !
#9
There are two seal rings: 1 is for the bulb housing, 1 is for the ballast. I wouldn't worry about the headlight housing rubber seal as it is rubber or unless it is bad. The seal ring that is used between the ballast and the headlight housing is the culprit. It is made kind of spongy foam, how stupid that could be. Water kills the ballasts, burns out the lights means hazardous at night. Should have been a safety recall. Heat from ballast dries it out, shrinks it causing the leak; also the spongy foam tends to absorb water and the heat sends the moisture into the headlight. You need a new seal for this, they could have made it better for the known (unadmitted) condensation problem. Find my other posts that explains what to do if you chose not to replace it.
Last edited by acutee; 02-28-2013 at 11:25 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Stephen00TL (02-28-2013)
#10
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
Thread Starter
There are two seal rings: 1 is for the bulb housing, 1 is for the ballast. I wouldn't worry about the headlight housing rubber seal as it is rubber or unless it is bad. The seal ring that is used between the ballast and the headlight housing is the culprit. It is made kind of spongy foam, how stupid that could be. Water kills the ballasts, burns out the lights means hazardous at night. Should have been a safety recall. Heat from ballast dries it out, shrinks it causing the leak; also the spongy foam tends to absorb water and the heat sends the moisture into the headlight. You need a new seal for this, they could have made it better for the known (unadmitted) condensation problem. Find my other posts that explains what to do if you chose not to replace it.
Thanks that's is exactly what I needed to know
#11
Former Sponsor
ACUTEE , Is a 100% correct and those seals you can get at the dealer they are not that much. If you are going with the stock headlights I can get you a really good price for them if you are considering new. If intrested send me a pm and I'll get you a price quote. Thanks Larry
The following users liked this post:
Stephen00TL (02-28-2013)
#12
(I'm slapping myself up side my head as I type this) Yes, I now remember the rubber seal around the bulb socket...it's kind of like a rubber band.....
Sorry for the miss-direction......
Sorry for the miss-direction......
#13
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
Thread Starter
ACUTEE , Is a 100% correct and those seals you can get at the dealer they are not that much. If you are going with the stock headlights I can get you a really good price for them if you are considering new. If intrested send me a pm and I'll get you a price quote. Thanks Larry
It's cool my question was kind of misleading. I'm just glad to have it figured out. I don't want te new headlights to leak. Thanks for the help
#14
you bought stock bulbs at the dealer? wow
and you think the ballast and capacitor are fine?
and you think the ballast and capacitor are fine?
#15
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
Thread Starter
Umm I think I said I bought bulbs. I bought brand new headlight housings so that wa I could keep driving my car and not have to worry about them turning yellow for a few years. Eventually I'm going to replace it with a 55watt kit from hidextra, I think I'm going to get a 55watt kit for the high beams too.
#17
Sometimes even at that good of a price, ya still have to wonder if they are the real McCoy.
I'll bet the Chinese are brave enough to knock off the box as well !
But, getting two for the price of one is worth a shot in my book. Thanks !
I'll bet the Chinese are brave enough to knock off the box as well !
But, getting two for the price of one is worth a shot in my book. Thanks !
#18
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
Thread Starter
Umm I think I said I bought bulbs. I bought brand new headlight housings so that wa I could keep driving my car and not have to worry about them turning yellow for a few years. Eventually I'm going to replace it with a 55watt kit from hidextra, I think I'm going to get a 55watt kit for the high beams too.
#19
that makes more sense,,
I went with blacked out housings on the bay, then 35watt kit to solve that prob
yellowing of lens not our big issue
use of lens cleaner-plastic cleaner and polish keep that under control
but the leak issue...new oe will fix that --for a while~
on 55watt- our housing type- bulb reflector doesnt work well with the 55,,not controlled enough, lost light and light blinding other drivers.
I would add fog lights/driving lights mounted down low to see road with
and get 35watt that output like 55 units
aftermarket has many options,
bulb HEAT becomes an issue with the 55s
that small drain hole on bottem of housing,= heat escape!
I went with blacked out housings on the bay, then 35watt kit to solve that prob
yellowing of lens not our big issue
use of lens cleaner-plastic cleaner and polish keep that under control
but the leak issue...new oe will fix that --for a while~
on 55watt- our housing type- bulb reflector doesnt work well with the 55,,not controlled enough, lost light and light blinding other drivers.
I would add fog lights/driving lights mounted down low to see road with
and get 35watt that output like 55 units
aftermarket has many options,
bulb HEAT becomes an issue with the 55s
that small drain hole on bottem of housing,= heat escape!
#20
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
Thread Starter
that makes more sense,,
I went with blacked out housings on the bay, then 35watt kit to solve that prob
yellowing of lens not our big issue
use of lens cleaner-plastic cleaner and polish keep that under control
but the leak issue...new oe will fix that --for a while~
on 55watt- our housing type- bulb reflector doesnt work well with the 55,,not controlled enough, lost light and light blinding other drivers.
I would add fog lights/driving lights mounted down low to see road with
and get 35watt that output like 55 units
aftermarket has many options,
bulb HEAT becomes an issue with the 55s
that small drain hole on bottem of housing,= heat escape!
I went with blacked out housings on the bay, then 35watt kit to solve that prob
yellowing of lens not our big issue
use of lens cleaner-plastic cleaner and polish keep that under control
but the leak issue...new oe will fix that --for a while~
on 55watt- our housing type- bulb reflector doesnt work well with the 55,,not controlled enough, lost light and light blinding other drivers.
I would add fog lights/driving lights mounted down low to see road with
and get 35watt that output like 55 units
aftermarket has many options,
bulb HEAT becomes an issue with the 55s
that small drain hole on bottem of housing,= heat escape!
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