bladecx321

First, I know there's a few threads on this already, but they haven't helped yet... so here's mine specific to my car.

When driving, my gears slip between second and third... It shifts out of second and "stays in neutral" if you will...until it shifts to 4th. When in this "third gear stage," if I hit the gas, nothing happens, like it's in neutral. So what I usually do it put it in sport shift, floor it in second gear, and shift straight up to 4th, completely skipping third gear. Something interesting I noticed though (but not sure if it's just my mind playing tricks on me), is that it feels like there's 2 gears in 4th gear. I have already had some sort of external sensor replaced, and that at least shut my engine light off for a day, but now my engine light is back on and the tranny is still messed up. I have to get my car inspected THIS MONTH, and need a fix, at least to get the engine light off so it'll pass inspection. Is there ANY way around this besides a completely new tranny..? Because I definitely don't have the money for that.

my.daily'tl'

That second gear youre feeling is the torque converter. Im assuming you have a 99. No mention of fifth gear.

Whats the history with this car? How long have you owned it? Any records?

How long has the transmission been doing this?

my.daily'tl'

And get the codes for us. Its free st any parts store except in cali. That'll give us something to work with besides alot of guessing

bladecx321

Alright I'll get the codes. And sorry I left out the year! It's a 2003 TL-S with about 126K miles on it. The tranny was replaced by the previous owner for the 3rd gear recall or whatever it was. But since I've owned it (I've only driven it about 6K miles so far...) and it's doing this.

my.daily'tl'

Codes help us not to assume stuff. Have you looked at the fluid? What color is it? Does it smell burnt?

yeedatoy

My TL ECU reset after only 15 miles. Some assfuck pulled my throttle position sensor and failed my inspection so they could try to charge to fix the car. The morons left a big oil finger print on my TPS. Get the codes, reset the ECU, drive 20 miles and pull the car in for inspection. That should solve one of your problems! Hopefully it takes longer then that for the CEL to come back. I did this for 3 years in my accord.

01tl4tl

one problem with that method:
Many states that do smog inspection have the machine plugged into the code reader port during the test

If the system has less than an hour of various driving conditions recorded,
it will say Not Ready for Testing

thats so you cant clear the light with the clock fuse, then whip in for inspection!

01tl4tl

blade- was the trans really replaced?
most cars got the oil jet kit installed and were fine inside

Open the hood and look down at trans
See the many things attached to trans? and its own main bolts
- blue paint on those bolt heads means its a warranty replaced trans

there is great confusion on that recall, it was not replaced unless there was certain fatal heat damage found, then they dropped in a fresh one

See if you have newer or original- which will have a small oil line running to top center of trans and a device -where the filler hole bolt normally fits
thats the actual recall installed part and indicates original trans

bladecx321

Everyone - I will check all of those things about the bolt colors and the ECU thing! Sounds like great ideas. For the mean time, I have my codes!

Format is codes, definition, then possible causes below. (Went to AutoZone for the codes).

P1778
Def: Pressure control solenoid valve "C" circuit fault
-Low tranny fluid level
-Open or short circuit condition
-Poor connection
-Failed PCS solenoid C

P0780
Def: Hydraulic control system fault
-Low tranny fluid level
-Poor electrical connection
-Failed shift solenoid

P1739
Def: Third clutch pressure switch circuit fault
-Low tranny fluid level
-Open or short circuit condition
-Failed third clutch pressure switch

P0730
Def: Shift control system fault
-Low tranny fluid level
-Poor electrical connection
-Failed shift soldenoid

P0740
Def: Transmission lock-up control system fault
-Low tranny fluid level
-Poor electrical connection
-Failed TCC solenoid


I also check the tranny fluid level while the car was "cold" and the fluid was pink, but didn't really smell burnt. Should I drive for ~15 mins then check the fluid or what? (My car did not come with the manual and I know certain cars have different testing requirements).

my.daily'tl'

For the meanwhile you can go to owners.acura.com for your user manual and also to see open recalls for your car. 01tl4tl also knows acuras number.

I expected to see tranny codes. Have you searched any of them on here?

And yes per the owners manual the transmission level needs to be checked warm after 15 minute drive on the freeway.

alexh1266

Those are transmission codes.
When my trans was on the way out it threw the p0740 code.
Had hard shifting and slipping between 2nd and 3rd.
No passing power on the fwy either. When you would floor it the trans refused to drop down into 3rd.

About 1k miles later it was time for a replacement, it could have lasted longer but with CA inspection coming up and me being frustrated with a crappy trans I decided to get it fixed.

1200 for a rebuilt oddysey trans with 2yr warranty from my honda dealers outside certified rebuild shop. Payed a buddy to help install it and it runs good again, for now!
'

BillThyCat

What year Odyssey and what size engine? It's something we are trying to compile for future transmission issues.

I asked the Honda shop in Cedar Rapids and they agreed that it was a possible swap, they didn't know any specifics as to year, size, etc.

He also said they had no one there that could tell about what PCM was required, they said they called Honda with the VIN and Honda would tell them whether a new PCM was required or not.

Thanks for any info you can provide alexh1266.

BTC

my.daily'tl'

Id like to see a sticky created for this exact reason. Reality is the alot of us are needing or going to need soon new transmissions. Alot of people have already done the auto to auto swap. We need a compiled source of info for current and new owners. I know we all can agree this is a big issue with our acuras and we need this info tunneled into a sticky.

alexh1266

My transmission came from a 5spd 2nd gen Honda Odyssey with a 3.5L.
Direct drop-in, no extra parts needed.
Using my original PCM and car runs just like it did from the factory.

Acura originally wanted 4-5k for labor, replacement trans, updated PCM replacement, and fuel pressure regulator that must be changed with the PCM (they go hand in hand from what I've learned).

There was nothing wrong with my fuel pressure regulator and the only reason they change the PCM, from reading here, is to change the shifting habits of the new trans to prolong its life, which I also read hurts/hinders performance, which I did not want! I like my car just the way it is, and didn't want it downgraded

So I saved some money and avoided all that, and only payed for what I originally needed, which was just the transmission. Found a good/certified rebuild Honda shop and 1200+Core (valued by them at 1100) later I had a rebuilt trans w/ 2yr warranty.

My bro-in-law works at a Honda dealer so he was able to get the part wholesale, no tax, and all that. His dealer offered to have it installed for $600 with a 1yr warranty on just the labor, which i refused because I doubt it will go bad in just 1 yr. So my B-I-L offered to install it for me on the weekend at the Honda dealer when his manager/boss wasn't around, and use all their equipment with free trans fluid

BillThyCat

What year range is 2nd gen Odyssey? Same as ours 2000-2003?

Thanks,

BTC

Cochese

iTrader: (3)

I will have to call that Honda dealer about this since I live in Cedar Rapids and will be needing some trans work done. (see my post in the trans failure thread )