broly

hi guys,

so i've been enjoying my car for the past week after getting the 105K service done, and also my speakers installed, but i now have an issue with power windows.

specifically, i cannot operate the front right, or rear windows from either the driver's switch *or* any of the switches that control their respective window.

the driver's side operates completely fine, and it's respective switch is lit (the 'AUTO' light), whereas the other three do not have a light.

• this leads me to believe it could be the power window relay, as from the diagrams i gather it controls the other three switches?

i have checked all the fuses. they are fine (both fuse #51 under the hood, and fuses 1, 7, 8, 16 on the passenger side).

i do not want to open the door panels right now because my tweeter brackets needed some persistence to stick properly, but i will definitely give it a look in the near future when i get my sail panels reworked.

any tips or suggestions?

broly

just some extra information: moonroof seems to be working fine as well.

the more i think about it, and after looking at the circuit diagram on the next page, i have to wonder if my power window relay was faulty before i even got my speakers installed.

i have been griping about the automatic window feature not working, and upon consulting the diagram on the next page i notice that the wire from No. 7 (WHT/YEL) is also connected to the automatic window feature.
edit: just to add, there is no "clicking" sound on any of the other three windows, so definitely there is no power getting to the switches or the window. makes me wonder if this is a textbook relay failure.


is it possible to have a partially-functioning relay, where some features may not work, but others would? i am not sure if their demise is similar to fuses, which are an "all or none" phenomena

thanks

edit: i also found this when looking at the possibility of a failing relay:If you notice that your car's automatic windows are not working properly or not at all, this could be due to your relay switch. When the relay switch becomes too congested with dirt or other material, it will not work and your windows could be stuck or unable to move properly. You can sometimes take the relay switches out, clean them, and then reinsert them into your car; however, sometimes they are old and overworked and you need to buy a new one.

broly

you know what else i'm wondering about, now that i've learned relays can be "semi-faulty", is how "power priority" (for the lack of a better term) at the junctions ("dots") is determined with a "weak" (sub-maximum output) relay.

for example (using the first diagram):

could the power window relay's total output have been previously below its maximum, such that at the "WHT/YEL" junction below No.7 (fuse) would give "priority" to the LEFT REAR SWITCH since it cannot deliver enough to power both it and the WHT/YEL wire that travels to the right?

i wonder how little (or how much) power the automatic feature draws, and if the absence of this feature was a symptom of a (slowly?) failing relay.

broly

update: nope it wasn't the relay.

@Ron A surmised (in private) that it may be the window lock, even though i cannot see how that would be the case if all that was done was a speaker install.

unfortunately my ADHD-ass can't recall checking passenger power window functionality upon picking up my vehicle; boy am i an idiot if i come to learn (when i get my reworked tweeter brackets) that maybe this switch is disconnected (i recall it has a wire).

right now i can say for sure it's not the relay, or fuses 1 7 8 16. don't think it's 13 or 15 since everything else works (i can lock the door from passenger side np, etc).

ugh.

SuperGreg

Sounds like the window lock switch is on Good luck!

thoiboi

dude.. talk about overthinking things.. Did you even check the window lock button?!






I think sometimes highly technical people just outright miss the simplest solutions by overanalyzation

broly

not simple when i refuse to remove my current tweeter brackets, but yes you're right in most cases this is the easiest thing to check lol.

whatever, i learned how to change the relay. it was an absolute chore to do. hate having to remove the glove compartment though lol.

Iggy

So what was wrong with it?

broly

man, and they say *i* have ADHD.

what is wrong with it is yet to be determined, as i have yet to remove the door panels because i have nowhere to put my tweeters.

i will let you know soon.

an aside, and this was my original reason for posting prior to reading your inquiry: i would have preferred honda stuck with siemens for relays rather than this other brand.

totally a preference thing, but given SIEMENS presence in other industries (coughcough we talkin' bout dat fuckin' MAGNETOM, man), i would have liked to have seen this relationship continue for a large relay (just for peace of mind re: reliability).

i am sure there was a vibrant for/against on this matter, and thus i digress.

broly

TOTS was the window lock wire unplugged ROFFLES.

on the upside: i learned how to change a relay (it's annoying as hell for the passenger side, at least).

on the downside (not really one, tbh): tweet brackets are ajar, but hopefully that will be alleviated soon.

now to nip and tuck minor imperfections in my interior. time to search and see what tricks you guys have to restore the shine on the black plastic

edit: pretty sure that resistor in front of the three diodes in serial on the wire from DRIVER"s that connects to PASSENGER SIDE SWITCHES is the window lock.

at least i'm getting more familiar with these diagrams, too.

thoiboi

all's well! We often overlook the simplest things

NBP04TL4ME

Classic - Glad you figured it out.