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So I'm gonna be working on my front lower ball joints because I found the creaking has been coming from that area plus the boot looks worn... I'll be doing my shocks when it's not so cold and rainy later in the week.
I have two question because I'm confused by the YouTube videos ones saying you have to and the other saying you don't have to. Anyway...
1. The ball joints on my car are non grease-able as far as see so those are what I got back.. The issue I'm having is the joint came with the boot and the joint seperated and a bag of grease said to be put on the base and all round the shaft after I press it in then cover it with the boot and a C ring..
What confuses me is on the grease-able ones the boot is sealed already and they pump grease until the boot puffs up... What I got as grease does't look like it will do anything similar.
2. Every video I watched involves removing the ABS ring inside the bearing to get the joint out.. Is this a must do or not? I don't want to remove it and cannot get it back in.
Thank You...
Last edited by Chiller2002TL; 02-21-2019 at 10:28 AM.
Reason: typing error
Hi, With regard to item 1: That sounds like most "sealed" ball joints that I have seen; the materials (and grease) used to make the two are different.
item 2: I believe the ABS ring is the ring on the end of the driveshaft? Do you mean the retaining ring? I don't believe that the second generation TL has the retaining ring; only 3rd and on...
Why don't you just get a sealed ball joint? I've been running Moog lower ball joints without issues. There's other options too at pretty cheap prices. OEM ones are about $40 each.
As for the axle, you won't have to mess with anything. It's all basic stuff except for two parts. First, it's INCREDIBLY difficult to separate the ball joint from the lower control arm. YouTube videos just say to remove the spindle nut and bang on the lower control arm with a hammer to pop out the ball joint upwards. That's always BS on my car, and it's required to get a ball joint separator tool ($20 at Harbor Freight). Even with the tool, it sounds like a shotgun going off when the ball joint finally releases from the lower control arm. Secondly, you will have to press out the old ball joint and press in the new one without damaging it. I used an air hammer to remove the old one, and I believe I used a C clamp to press in the new one.
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...l-area-964166/
Recently replaced it. Would recommend rent C clamp and proper sockets for it. For me wasn't big dill to do it. Didn't even bother to post here what to do. Pull out steering knuckle and kick out LBJ with sledge hammer. Then use C clamp to press in. I have habit of putting LBJ in freezer over night and pull out of freezer just before using it. Pickle fork worth every penny in this situation to take apart steering knuckle from lower control arm.
Just to give you idea I replaced Lower ball joint and tie end rod at my Acura and both lower ball joints and one tie end rod at my Ford pickup in span of one month over weekends. It is routine job. Google how to use sledge hammer to open ball joints. But for lower ones pickle fork is way to go unless you want reuse joint.
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It is my answer from another tread. You do not disconnect abs sensor from steering knuckle. Disconnect it up from connector in engine buy. Replaced one before two months.
I've used the 'socket handle' method shown on the video below as well as the 'rented' ball joint separator from autozone and they both worked great.
On the video below, I didn't like the idea of jacking up the lca/knuckle assembly of the car by the rotor. So, instead, I placed the jack under the lower control arm, where the strut bolt is located, and used that point to apply upward force. Then placed the end of the ratchet between the knuckle and LCA and it worked like a charm.
If someone use pickle fork keep in mind that different cars require different size of it. I have bigger one for my Ford pickup and smaller for Acura. Used recently Fords one for Acura and wasn't capable separate lower ball joint till figure out I need smaller one.
Ah I see. The car in that link appears to be for 3g TL, you can tell by the lower control arm design which is the wishbone design featuring a compliance bushing. 2g TL is a single arm that uses the radius rod to maintain compliance.
If you do a search for parts on the 2g vs 3g TL’s knuckle you’ll see that you can buy that ring for 3g TL’s only, but of course nothing will tell for sure unless you take a look at it in real life.
I think you won’t have to worry about the ring in this case.
While you have the knuckle out, did you check your wheel bearings for play? Might be a good time to attack that with all that work invested to take the knuckle out.
You are absolutely spot on with the ring scenario.. I had to wait until this morning to research it.. Was in the hospital all of yesterday so I couldn't reply from my phone... OH and my car is still parked not jaccked up or anything .. It's a frozen driveway at the moment..
I went on Acura Parts for less and that ring is only listed for the 3rd gens..
I just realized my new ball joints came with a self locking nut and not the usual castle nut and cotter pin.. Should I bring it back or can it be used?
Any thoughts on returning it while you wait for the driveway to thaw out? Personally, I’d rather have the peace of mind in knowing that the design of the nut holding my front suspension together is what most others use.
I get especially nervous when I see threads like this (granted the cause in this other guys situation may be completely different):
I'm gonna return them... But I have to drive the same car the problem is on... The other cars available is in the shop with a running lean condition & my brother's Tundra has expired inspection sticker & broken leaf spring. He drove it from Connecticut to here in NY saying it just cannot carry load in the bed but I'm a paranoid person driving a broken car . So I'm between a rock and a hard place as what to do in terms of driving.
I can probably get away with the inspection sticker saying I had trouble with it in CT and I just got the chance to drive it back to get inspection done. I'm seriously pondering if I can drive the truck to return the ball joints than do have the old ones on my TL break and send me rolling..
I just realized my new ball joints came with a self locking nut and not the usual castle nut and cotter pin.. Should I bring it back or can it be used?
If the old OEM castle nut(s) are still in good shape, meaning not deteriorated due to salt induced corrosion, re-use them.
Save yourself the hassle of a return.
They are CTR from Get in the zone...: The other auto stores were out of stock and I really wanted to get it done as it's the only working vehicle in the yard rn.
I have a 2006 RL with 225k miles on it ...anyone know whats the life spans of the front suspension parts are - coil springs ,control arms , and the such- I have loud thumping noise when I go over a bumpy road - I am looking to replace the struts but not sure if I need to buy new coil spings? HELP PLEASE! -This is my first thread that I have responded to EVER so if Im out of line --sorry ! Thanks for any info!
You are in the wrong forum/thread... And also to find out whats thumping.. Jack the car up shake the wheel at the 6 to 12 position and 3 and 9.. Look for play in suspension parts... A dead shock will be a very bouncy car over bumps, dip in front when braking to a stop or excessive sag in the back when moving off,
They are CTR from Get in the zone...: The other auto stores were out of stock and I really wanted to get it done as it's the only working vehicle in the yard rn.
If the link to rockauto does not work below, just go to their online store and look at the selection they have for your car. You will find what you need with a castle nut easily.
I just called them back and the guy looked in the computer and saw that it is supposed be castle nut and cotter pin... Also looked on the shelf and they all have self locking nuts and he wouldn't feel safe with them either..
So he said he's gonna order some and let them make sure they are castle nut types and should be there by 6 pm EST.
I have a 2006 RL with 225k miles on it ...anyone know whats the life spans of the front suspension parts are - coil springs ,control arms , and the such- I have loud thumping noise when I go over a bumpy road - I am looking to replace the struts but not sure if I need to buy new coil spings? HELP PLEASE! -This is my first thread that I have responded to EVER so if Im out of line --sorry ! Thanks for any info!
When he is here already. Check LOWER BALL JOINTS, UPPER BALL JOINTS AND TIE END ROD. Just in this tread is enough links to what happen if lower ball joint snap.
I got a cheaper brand but the right type with 5 year warranty in exchange for the other ones... Guy says the main supplier to them told him the self locking nut ones are good enough to be used but the Autozone dude said he wouldn't trust it either and he finds it odd that their computer inventory list castle nut/cotter pins with a (lifetime warranty part ) but that's not in the package they sell.
Now i got 2 last questions and I'm on my way.
1. How likely is the ABS sensor to break when removing it. And if I can remove it from the engine bay.. how hard is it to get out the clip in the wheel well?
And #2. Now that I have a one with the boot This is the exact one ..
on already. Will I have any issue of it being in the way or can I press it right through? Thank you all for the quick responses and assistance. It means a lot.
^^^ I never do not try to pull abs sensor from knuckle, because of course broke one in past. Easy to pull up in engine buy and even easier to return it. That will be yours easiest part of project.
Glad to hear you got the ball joint sorted out! I think you’ll get varying responses on the abs sensor. I live in California, where we don’t have To worry about harsh elements found in other states. Not to mention my car is garage kept. I took mine out with no problem whatsoever.
I’d say your best bet is to follow the advice of others, and not take it out, but check to see that your local auto store has one in stock just in case something does happen to it (for example on the plug side). I recall you mentioned that this is your only vehicle, I believe you can still drive the car with a broken sensor, but may be wrong.
I did drove my car with broken sensor in past. He can try to pull it out but if do not go right away I would go for connector. Once abs sensor crack in housing it is double more work. Plus sensor is expensive.
jack the wheel assembly at the lower ball joint stud until the hub is around normal ride height in relation to the fender as if it were on the ground then tighten it all up.
Update... So I only got to do one side because of the freaking ice on the ground and that pain in the ass joint not coming out.... I did use the tool but as usual with rental tools from Autozone they don't always work.
I had to stop halfway as darkness & 50 mph winds came along until 4 pm yesterday... But I have some concern oneone thing... My outer tie rod end has what looks like a regular nut but high grade... To add to my misery the salt here over time rusted the cotter pin so it just disintegrated when trying to get it out and piece is still stuck in the hole... I'm not leaving it that way i'm gonna punch it out and cotter pin it.
My concern is the nut. Even thought I've been driving for 2+ years without knowing that was on it and without incident ... I'm trying to find a castle nut for peace of mind.... Any idea what thread they are.. Or do you think the old ball joint one can fit/be reused?
Last edited by Chiller2002TL; 02-26-2019 at 08:49 PM.
Reason: typing error
hey guys so I got the driver side ball joint done today and the same situation with the cotter pin on the tie rod ends.. They are stuck in there.. Not even a punch won't get it out... Can I use nylon self locking nuts or even a locking flange nut with the grooves. Or should I go get new rod ends?
I was thinking re-drill holes but no idea what to do ( drill bit wise ) and I feel it's not a safe route
Good news!! I was able to get one out with a bit of perseverance .. Put in a full steering lock so I could get more clearance and knocked the crap outta the punch to get it a bit further in the hole... The left over cotter pin piece popped out enough for me to grab it with some dikes..
Try searching for your issues and you'll likely find someone that has gone through what you have, it's an (at best) 16 year old car now so chances are with you.
02-21-2019, 10:25 AM
So, instead, I placed the jack under the lower control arm, where the strut bolt is located, and used that point to apply upward force. Then placed the end of the ratchet between the knuckle and LCA and it worked like a charm.
The other auto stores were out of stock and I really wanted to get it done as it's the only working vehicle in the yard rn.
Acura RL 2006 Suspension
