First Testing New "HONDA (DW-1) ATF"
10-19-2011, 05:44 PM
#81
Moderator
Thread Starter
So far so good with me too, Nothing has gone wrong, Shifts are Smooth but im trying to stick to Full SS for now...
My tranny coolers seems more happy, thats something! On Z1 my tranny coolers where incredible Hot after a 4 hour Traffic jam but now they are Warm to the touch with DW-1 dunno why but it does.. On Z1 I could not keep my finger for more than 2 secs on the Cooler now I can leave it there for as much as I wanted to.
Glad its working fine with you "gold2003tl"!
My tranny coolers seems more happy, thats something! On Z1 my tranny coolers where incredible Hot after a 4 hour Traffic jam but now they are Warm to the touch with DW-1 dunno why but it does.. On Z1 I could not keep my finger for more than 2 secs on the Cooler now I can leave it there for as much as I wanted to.
Glad its working fine with you "gold2003tl"!
10-19-2011, 10:06 PM
#82
Three Wheelin'
DW-1 about 5000km now. no difference in shift quality from Z1. The torque converter still acting up sometimes, with sudden engine braking at slow speeds. You know once i was accelerating in SS at 4th gear, the RPM stayed at ~2700rpm from 30mph to 50mph?!?! no change in rpm. and i was accelerating moderately. In all my years driving, my cars RPM would climb as the speed climbed, considering there are no gear changes. has to be the torque converter right?
Last edited by pickler; 10-19-2011 at 10:10 PM.
10-20-2011, 09:20 AM
#83
2003 TL-p
DW-1 about 5000km now. no difference in shift quality from Z1. The torque converter still acting up sometimes, with sudden engine braking at slow speeds. You know once i was accelerating in SS at 4th gear, the RPM stayed at ~2700rpm from 30mph to 50mph?!?! no change in rpm. and i was accelerating moderately. In all my years driving, my cars RPM would climb as the speed climbed, considering there are no gear changes. has to be the torque converter right?
10-20-2011, 12:05 PM
#84
Pull the pressure control solenoids and replace. They may have deposits built up inside and not functioning correctly. Seems that the clutch packs are slipping due to wear or line pressure issues.
No Codes?
No Codes?
10-20-2011, 07:43 PM
#85
Three Wheelin'
Nope no codes. The tranny shifts like always. I never feel any slippage when changing gears. I can redline all the way and shifts quickly with no problems. Only problem is sometimes shifting is a bit jerky between 3-2 and 2-1 in D5. Also some engine braking when driving below 30mph. Sometimes when I'm slowing down for a red light, the car stops engine braking (suddenly coasts easily) and I suddenly have to apply more brake pedal. And I can recreate keeping RPM and increasing speed in 4th gear all the time.
10-21-2011, 09:51 AM
#86
Moderator
Thread Starter
Yeah the Jerkiness you talk about only happends to me when dead Cold start, If I let it Idle in the Morning shifts fine but if im in a Hurry OMG The car shifts like crap from 1-2.. all other gears seems fine.
10-25-2011, 11:45 PM
#87
I've always noticed this as well. In my case, eventually it's gotten worse, twice. I almost feel like my transmissions were replaced much too soon, though. I wonder how much longer I could have driven with them.
10-26-2011, 05:22 AM
#88
Moderator
Thread Starter
Well I have over 90K on my Rebuilted tranny (Not Acura replacement, Rebuilted 1st Gen Tranny No Jet, Or Blue Bolts) and it feels strong in driving specs, Only that hiccup at the Cold Drive it actually "Shakes" the car when shifting from PARK to 1st. I try to idle my car every morning since, Not a Single Issue if Idle.
10-26-2011, 12:15 PM
#89
Interesting. When my second transmission really started to go, I would often get a similar shudder but much bigger when going from park to reverse. Maybe I should have just kept my first transmission. Right before I had it replaced I was noticing a high-pitched whine, and I took the car in to have it looked at because I had recently received the notice about the warranty extension for the transmission. The dealer said I needed a new transmission.
10-26-2011, 12:35 PM
#90
Dont know if this is good or bad if the cooler is cool. Warm could be the heat is being obsorbed by the cooler efficiently. Cool could be the heat is not being released quick enough due to its viscocity thickness, or vice versa, meaning Warm means fluid is at hight temp, Cool means fluid is operating normal with the internal parts.
Like comparing water and coolant in radiator.
Like comparing water and coolant in radiator.
So far so good with me too, Nothing has gone wrong, Shifts are Smooth but im trying to stick to Full SS for now...
My tranny coolers seems more happy, thats something! On Z1 my tranny coolers where incredible Hot after a 4 hour Traffic jam but now they are Warm to the touch with DW-1 dunno why but it does.. On Z1 I could not keep my finger for more than 2 secs on the Cooler now I can leave it there for as much as I wanted to.
Glad its working fine with you "gold2003tl"!
My tranny coolers seems more happy, thats something! On Z1 my tranny coolers where incredible Hot after a 4 hour Traffic jam but now they are Warm to the touch with DW-1 dunno why but it does.. On Z1 I could not keep my finger for more than 2 secs on the Cooler now I can leave it there for as much as I wanted to.
Glad its working fine with you "gold2003tl"!
10-26-2011, 03:00 PM
#91
2003 TL-p
Dont know if this is good or bad if the cooler is cool. Warm could be the heat is being obsorbed by the cooler efficiently. Cool could be the heat is not being released quick enough due to its viscocity thickness, or vice versa, meaning Warm means fluid is at hight temp, Cool means fluid is operating normal with the internal parts.
Like comparing water and coolant in radiator.
Like comparing water and coolant in radiator.
i have a few more miles on my current dw-1 fill, shifts are slowly changing back to like how z1 felt (which was not bad), so i dont really think dw-1 provides a real significant improvement in shift quality over z1 in the long run. I am hoping that dw-1 provides better thermal protection hopefully prolonging the life of my tranny a little. keep your fingers crossed.
10-26-2011, 07:44 PM
#92
Moderator
Thread Starter
Dont know if this is good or bad if the cooler is cool. Warm could be the heat is being obsorbed by the cooler efficiently. Cool could be the heat is not being released quick enough due to its viscocity thickness, or vice versa, meaning Warm means fluid is at hight temp, Cool means fluid is operating normal with the internal parts.
Like comparing water and coolant in radiator.
Like comparing water and coolant in radiator.
I had that response too from the Mega Mod Years ago with the AMSOIL ATF he said the exact same thing.
I dunno either but the trans shift smooth and in my book if it shift smooth and no harsh the tranny is ok?? hahaha I really dunno.
Actually thinking it over I think its the weather, If I recall right when I did that test (On Z1) it was summer here in San Diego but our Summer is nothing more than 90°F right now we arent getting even 75°F MAX. so the Weather could be the issue why DW-1 "seems" cooler.
Last edited by Skirmich; 10-26-2011 at 07:48 PM.
10-27-2011, 05:45 PM
#93
Three Wheelin'
main reason i did a ATF change was cause of rough shifting. went from Z1 to DW1 with no difference. Actually might have worsten the situation but i just think there was no difference after.
Anyway, sometimes when i'm merging at WOT i get abrupt extremely rough up-shifts from 2-3 gear. This only happens sometimes. Shifts from 3-2 and 2-1 can be sometimes felt but are not really rough. R->D is also bad sometimes. I also have rough shifting on my 2007 RDX, but its downshift from 5-4 and upshifts on all gears at redline. This leads me to believe that its all normal behavior by honda's 5AT. A friend also has same problem with an Acura CSX.
Last edited by pickler; 10-27-2011 at 05:48 PM.
10-27-2011, 07:38 PM
#94
Moderator
Thread Starter
Wierd except from the harsh shift from Park > D5 if dead cold running My tranny shifts fine. Perhaps there´s something going on with our tranny but cant help it, If it has a major Lubrication Flaw why it wont start to act up being so old?'?'? perhaps we found out another stupid flaw in our trannys but cant pin-point the cause.
10-27-2011, 07:40 PM
#95
Racer
Wierd except from the harsh shift from Park > D5 if dead cold running My tranny shifts fine. Perhaps there´s something going on with our tranny but cant help it, If it has a major Lubrication Flaw why it wont start to act up being so old?'?'? perhaps we found out another stupid flaw in our trannys but cant pin-point the cause.
11-01-2011, 08:06 PM
#97
Racer
You won't save much. Only Honda/Acura dealers have access and dealer cost is uniform. I would suggest just heading down to either dealership brand and buying it. BTW, the Honda and Acura versions are identical - other than the bottle logo.
11-05-2011, 12:33 PM
#100
Moderator
Thread Starter
It wont be a Super Change, But seems being Semi-Syn will help a bit...
The tranny has a Serious design flaw so dont expect miracles only from Oil..
Ill Add Tranny ATF Coolers and Magnetic Inline Filter to Help ALOT...
The tranny has a Serious design flaw so dont expect miracles only from Oil..
Ill Add Tranny ATF Coolers and Magnetic Inline Filter to Help ALOT...
11-06-2011, 10:28 AM
#101
Senior Moderator
11-06-2011, 06:09 PM
#103
Senior Moderator
10-07-2015, 01:46 PM
#106
Intermediate
[QUOTE=TLer trash;13013366]
so DW-1 is not recommended for my 04TL ??
Well it doesnt really depends what is more suited since the Z1 is by now Obsolete compared to DW-1 soo your only having one real Option.
The 3x3! Or get the Tranny Flushed? In the Dealer and run brand new DW-1 in All its glory!
The new DW-1 is designed to have more slippage than Z1 for more comfortable Shifts and in our case to let the clutch package have some slack = Less heat by Friction.
I for One would never Run on browned oil since its a clear statement that is by now useless, Your oil should always be Red Cherry.
Have you read the "redline racing atf " thread? I'm guessing not. It's a lot of reading, but you really should read it. "Inaccurate" and "I hate cars" have cut through the b.s. about trans fluid, friction modifiers, viscosity, etc.,and come up with some common sense facts about transmissions and fluid. Honda's insistance on using highly friction modified fluid to make the shifts invisible is a contributing factor to trans failure. The more a clutch slips, the more wear, and more heat is generated. The dw1 is more of a synthetic than the z1, but it's low viscosity for fuel mileage and still loaded with friction modifiers. I cringe when I read about how smooth our 2nd gen transmissions shift with this stuff. I think it will hurt rather than help their longevity.
I think everyone should read the "racing atf thread' before changing or adding atf.
The 3x3! Or get the Tranny Flushed? In the Dealer and run brand new DW-1 in All its glory!
The new DW-1 is designed to have more slippage than Z1 for more comfortable Shifts and in our case to let the clutch package have some slack = Less heat by Friction.
I for One would never Run on browned oil since its a clear statement that is by now useless, Your oil should always be Red Cherry.
Have you read the "redline racing atf " thread? I'm guessing not. It's a lot of reading, but you really should read it. "Inaccurate" and "I hate cars" have cut through the b.s. about trans fluid, friction modifiers, viscosity, etc.,and come up with some common sense facts about transmissions and fluid. Honda's insistance on using highly friction modified fluid to make the shifts invisible is a contributing factor to trans failure. The more a clutch slips, the more wear, and more heat is generated. The dw1 is more of a synthetic than the z1, but it's low viscosity for fuel mileage and still loaded with friction modifiers. I cringe when I read about how smooth our 2nd gen transmissions shift with this stuff. I think it will hurt rather than help their longevity.
I think everyone should read the "racing atf thread' before changing or adding atf.
10-07-2015, 01:56 PM
#107
Moderator
Thread Starter
^ DW-1 is the only Genuine ATF you can buy from Honda/Acura it replaced the OEM Z1...
Read the Redline Racing Thread if you want alternatives.
Read the Redline Racing Thread if you want alternatives.
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