First Testing New "HONDA (DW-1) ATF"
06-07-2011, 11:25 PM
#41
Moderator
Thread Starter
Woah? Downshifts from 2nd to 1st in Normal Driving?? My car barelly downshifts from 3rd into 2nd.
2nd > 1st should only happend when stopping less than 15mph.
But in 25mph donwshifting should not happend.
25-30mph is 3rd gear Land in Normal Driving.
2nd > 1st should only happend when stopping less than 15mph.
But in 25mph donwshifting should not happend.
25-30mph is 3rd gear Land in Normal Driving.
06-09-2011, 04:55 PM
#44
Moderator
Thread Starter
To pickler:
I think that your tranny is going south Normally downshifts are way Smoother than UpShifting like I said your original tranny is living on borrowed time.
To Formula1
Nice! When you complete the 3x2 youll have more Smoothing Shifting!
Im 300miles from completing my 3.5x3!!
I think that your tranny is going south Normally downshifts are way Smoother than UpShifting like I said your original tranny is living on borrowed time.
To Formula1
Nice! When you complete the 3x2 youll have more Smoothing Shifting!
Im 300miles from completing my 3.5x3!!
Last edited by Skirmich; 06-09-2011 at 04:58 PM.
06-09-2011, 05:29 PM
#45
Three Wheelin'
[QUOTE=Skirmich;13010424]To pickler:
I think that your tranny is going south Normally downshifts are way Smoother than UpShifting like I said your original tranny is living on borrowed time.
my tranny was always like this, except its more pronounced now i think due to age
I think that your tranny is going south Normally downshifts are way Smoother than UpShifting like I said your original tranny is living on borrowed time.
my tranny was always like this, except its more pronounced now i think due to age
06-10-2011, 11:49 AM
#46
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I've searched on the issue and I'm a bit confused and need some advice:
I bought my 02 TL-S a year ago with 176,000 miles on it. Has a replacement transmission, but I have no idea how old it is. The blue bolts are a bit faded, so it's been awhile. A year later I have just over 200,000, and I recently checked my trans fluid and it was light brown. Doesn't really smell burnt but it's obviously not in the best condition.
I'd like to change the fluid to DW-1 instead of just letting the old fluid get worse. My tranny runs okay, some upshifts can be a bit harsh, but nothing terrible. I know changing trans fluid on an old transmission can cause slippage, so my question is, should I buy DW-1 and do a 3x3? I assume I cannot do a 1x3 because I'd be mixing new DW-1 with old Z1?
I bought my 02 TL-S a year ago with 176,000 miles on it. Has a replacement transmission, but I have no idea how old it is. The blue bolts are a bit faded, so it's been awhile. A year later I have just over 200,000, and I recently checked my trans fluid and it was light brown. Doesn't really smell burnt but it's obviously not in the best condition.
I'd like to change the fluid to DW-1 instead of just letting the old fluid get worse. My tranny runs okay, some upshifts can be a bit harsh, but nothing terrible. I know changing trans fluid on an old transmission can cause slippage, so my question is, should I buy DW-1 and do a 3x3? I assume I cannot do a 1x3 because I'd be mixing new DW-1 with old Z1?
06-10-2011, 12:42 PM
#47
Moderator
Thread Starter
Well it doesnt really depends what is more suited since the Z1 is by now Obsolete compared to DW-1 soo your only having one real Option.
The 3x3! Or get the Tranny Flushed? In the Dealer and run brand new DW-1 in All its glory!
The new DW-1 is designed to have more slippage than Z1 for more comfortable Shifts and in our case to let the clutch package have some slack = Less heat by Friction.
I for One would never Run on browned oil since its a clear statement that is by now useless, Your oil should always be Red Cherry.
My 2 Cents.
The 3x3! Or get the Tranny Flushed? In the Dealer and run brand new DW-1 in All its glory!
The new DW-1 is designed to have more slippage than Z1 for more comfortable Shifts and in our case to let the clutch package have some slack = Less heat by Friction.
I for One would never Run on browned oil since its a clear statement that is by now useless, Your oil should always be Red Cherry.
My 2 Cents.
06-10-2011, 04:37 PM
#49
[QUOTE=Skirmich;13012750]Well it doesnt really depends what is more suited since the Z1 is by now Obsolete compared to DW-1 soo your only having one real Option.
The 3x3! Or get the Tranny Flushed? In the Dealer and run brand new DW-1 in All its glory!
The new DW-1 is designed to have more slippage than Z1 for more comfortable Shifts and in our case to let the clutch package have some slack = Less heat by Friction.
I for One would never Run on browned oil since its a clear statement that is by now useless, Your oil should always be Red Cherry.
Have you read the "redline racing atf " thread? I'm guessing not. It's a lot of reading, but you really should read it. "Inaccurate" and "I hate cars" have cut through the b.s. about trans fluid, friction modifiers, viscosity, etc.,and come up with some common sense facts about transmissions and fluid. Honda's insistance on using highly friction modified fluid to make the shifts invisible is a contributing factor to trans failure. The more a clutch slips, the more wear, and more heat is generated. The dw1 is more of a synthetic than the z1, but it's low viscosity for fuel mileage and still loaded with friction modifiers. I cringe when I read about how smooth our 2nd gen transmissions shift with this stuff. I think it will hurt rather than help their longevity.
I think everyone should read the "racing atf thread' before changing or adding atf.
The 3x3! Or get the Tranny Flushed? In the Dealer and run brand new DW-1 in All its glory!
The new DW-1 is designed to have more slippage than Z1 for more comfortable Shifts and in our case to let the clutch package have some slack = Less heat by Friction.
I for One would never Run on browned oil since its a clear statement that is by now useless, Your oil should always be Red Cherry.
Have you read the "redline racing atf " thread? I'm guessing not. It's a lot of reading, but you really should read it. "Inaccurate" and "I hate cars" have cut through the b.s. about trans fluid, friction modifiers, viscosity, etc.,and come up with some common sense facts about transmissions and fluid. Honda's insistance on using highly friction modified fluid to make the shifts invisible is a contributing factor to trans failure. The more a clutch slips, the more wear, and more heat is generated. The dw1 is more of a synthetic than the z1, but it's low viscosity for fuel mileage and still loaded with friction modifiers. I cringe when I read about how smooth our 2nd gen transmissions shift with this stuff. I think it will hurt rather than help their longevity.
I think everyone should read the "racing atf thread' before changing or adding atf.
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my.daily'tl' (06-10-2011)
06-10-2011, 11:03 PM
#51
Three Wheelin'
[quote=TLer trash;13013366]
I really wish i knew this before i did the change. do you think i should keep DW1 or should i immediately flush it for say redline? I was extremely angry today when i felt the tranny slip today. All the years hardwork on being gentle on the tranny and after a simple fluid change it becomes f*ed up. the car pushes and pulls now too, its like sometimes when im cruising i feel a push, wth?!
Well it doesnt really depends what is more suited since the Z1 is by now Obsolete compared to DW-1 soo your only having one real Option.
The 3x3! Or get the Tranny Flushed? In the Dealer and run brand new DW-1 in All its glory!
The new DW-1 is designed to have more slippage than Z1 for more comfortable Shifts and in our case to let the clutch package have some slack = Less heat by Friction.
I for One would never Run on browned oil since its a clear statement that is by now useless, Your oil should always be Red Cherry.
Have you read the "redline racing atf " thread? I'm guessing not. It's a lot of reading, but you really should read it. "Inaccurate" and "I hate cars" have cut through the b.s. about trans fluid, friction modifiers, viscosity, etc.,and come up with some common sense facts about transmissions and fluid. Honda's insistance on using highly friction modified fluid to make the shifts invisible is a contributing factor to trans failure. The more a clutch slips, the more wear, and more heat is generated. The dw1 is more of a synthetic than the z1, but it's low viscosity for fuel mileage and still loaded with friction modifiers. I cringe when I read about how smooth our 2nd gen transmissions shift with this stuff. I think it will hurt rather than help their longevity.
I think everyone should read the "racing atf thread' before changing or adding atf.
The 3x3! Or get the Tranny Flushed? In the Dealer and run brand new DW-1 in All its glory!
The new DW-1 is designed to have more slippage than Z1 for more comfortable Shifts and in our case to let the clutch package have some slack = Less heat by Friction.
I for One would never Run on browned oil since its a clear statement that is by now useless, Your oil should always be Red Cherry.
Have you read the "redline racing atf " thread? I'm guessing not. It's a lot of reading, but you really should read it. "Inaccurate" and "I hate cars" have cut through the b.s. about trans fluid, friction modifiers, viscosity, etc.,and come up with some common sense facts about transmissions and fluid. Honda's insistance on using highly friction modified fluid to make the shifts invisible is a contributing factor to trans failure. The more a clutch slips, the more wear, and more heat is generated. The dw1 is more of a synthetic than the z1, but it's low viscosity for fuel mileage and still loaded with friction modifiers. I cringe when I read about how smooth our 2nd gen transmissions shift with this stuff. I think it will hurt rather than help their longevity.
I think everyone should read the "racing atf thread' before changing or adding atf.
06-11-2011, 01:06 AM
#53
Moderator
Thread Starter
Have you read the "redline racing atf " thread? I'm guessing not. It's a lot of reading, but you really should read it. "Inaccurate" and "I hate cars" have cut through the b.s. about trans fluid, friction modifiers, viscosity, etc.,and come up with some common sense facts about transmissions and fluid. Honda's insistance on using highly friction modified fluid to make the shifts invisible is a contributing factor to trans failure. The more a clutch slips, the more wear, and more heat is generated. The dw1 is more of a synthetic than the z1, but it's low viscosity for fuel mileage and still loaded with friction modifiers. I cringe when I read about how smooth our 2nd gen transmissions shift with this stuff. I think it will hurt rather than help their longevity.
I think everyone should read the "racing atf thread' before changing or adding atf.
I think everyone should read the "racing atf thread' before changing or adding atf.
I did read it, but since im In my Original Tranny Design Redline would do Shit to prevent my tranny fail anyway.
So If I have the best smoothing shifting transmision that is Slowly and Painful dying until it gives in I dont care, My AV6 Tranny is waiting in my garage for a Swap So no hurry.
Also if that is true then AMSOIL is really bad for us with the Old Design cuz if shifts the same as the DW-1. My first tranny died with AMSOIL and it could have died the same with Redline but that thing was way more expensive.
Not the Best Oil In The World will ever defeat a Serious Design Flaw that the Old Design has, NEVER. It will die with Z1 as DW-1 or Redline being the last the Most Expensive ATF EVER.
Last edited by Skirmich; 06-11-2011 at 01:11 AM.
06-11-2011, 02:58 AM
#54
Three Wheelin'
I also think we are expecting too much from ATF. a bad tranny is a bad tranny even with the best fluid. I had a 4AT Mitsubishi which did over 250k miles with tranny running on cheap dexron iii fluid. it was always silky smooth. the tl tranny is just such a fail I can't bellieve Acura got away with it.
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acura-rick (06-11-2011)
06-11-2011, 09:00 AM
#55
[quote=pickler;13014040]
This, gentleman, is why I bought an RL.
Don't have to be gentle on it. I saw a few RLs on CL with around 350K miles on the original driveline. Oh well, gas guzzler, grampa benz FTW!!!!!!
This, gentleman, is why I bought an RL.
Don't have to be gentle on it. I saw a few RLs on CL with around 350K miles on the original driveline. Oh well, gas guzzler, grampa benz FTW!!!!!!
06-11-2011, 11:06 AM
#56
acura got away with it because by the time the court case `forcing an extended warranty--past the original 50kmiles and trans quit at 51~
it was already making the gen3 car!!
so they could really care less about us then, and by now,,,a decade and 2 gens later,,,
their opinion is you should buy a new car every 3 years!!
it was already making the gen3 car!!
so they could really care less about us then, and by now,,,a decade and 2 gens later,,,
their opinion is you should buy a new car every 3 years!!
06-11-2011, 11:18 AM
#57
Always Working In
Go and search for "racing atf" in the 3g sectipn. Someone posted excerpts from a book on auto trans and how the clutches work and the effects of the different fluids on these parts. Its a great read!
06-11-2011, 03:46 PM
#58
i assume then, that the transmissions in a 3g and 2g can share fluids?
06-11-2011, 05:32 PM
#60
Always Working In
Yes. I say this because both 2g and 3g used z1 from the factory.
I dont know much about the 3g trans and any improvements that were made to it after 2g.
Ppl want snappier shifts which are also better for the trans so they opt for a fluid mix with less friction modification. Mixing fluids I dont think coul be bad. Youre just gonna end up with a result of x amount of friction modifiers in the trans. The goal being less than whats in the z1 which seems help our trans shifts.
I dont know much about the 3g trans and any improvements that were made to it after 2g.
Ppl want snappier shifts which are also better for the trans so they opt for a fluid mix with less friction modification. Mixing fluids I dont think coul be bad. Youre just gonna end up with a result of x amount of friction modifiers in the trans. The goal being less than whats in the z1 which seems help our trans shifts.
08-24-2011, 01:34 PM
#61
I just got back from my local Acura dealer and picked up 11 quarts of the new DW-1. I'll be doing a 3x3.5ish, so I anticipate using about 10.5 quarts total. Hopefully all goes well.
08-24-2011, 04:23 PM
#62
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[QUOTE=pickler;13010508]
mine has been slipping around for like 60k+ miles and its still kicking...I have simply learned how to drive it better (when to shift and at what throttle) and I usually use SS mode to shift all the time. randomly that makes it about 60% better at least sometimes it doesnt slip any with SS. and if I floor it from a stop with it shifting 5-6k in regular auto it shifts smooth as silk. if I take off regular and it shifts around 3k then it jumps up before grabbing 2nd.
who knows? but it works for me and I am not going to run out and drop $2 or $3k for a rebuilt tranny unless it completely dies. Also I have done a 3x3 drain/fill every 30 or 40k miles since I got it. 180,000 miles now on original transmission
who knows? but it works for me and I am not going to run out and drop $2 or $3k for a rebuilt tranny unless it completely dies. Also I have done a 3x3 drain/fill every 30 or 40k miles since I got it. 180,000 miles now on original transmission
08-24-2011, 05:16 PM
#63
Moderator
Thread Starter
I Also think driving up with SS is far better than the Stupid AUTO Mode.
When Im in Traffic the trans shifts to 4th doing 40mph but if I lower to 38mph it downshifts to 3rd! Repeat that every stop sign and you got a frickin Hot Trans in Normal Driving.
BUT If I use SS I can Hold 3rd for a couple of RPM More (100-300RPM) So I can lower the amount of stupid shifting.
I think my tranny is Rock Solid just by using SS in city. I know a couple of people would say its worse but I think the tranny will crap itself either way, Using SS or AUTO Mode.
When Im in Traffic the trans shifts to 4th doing 40mph but if I lower to 38mph it downshifts to 3rd! Repeat that every stop sign and you got a frickin Hot Trans in Normal Driving.
BUT If I use SS I can Hold 3rd for a couple of RPM More (100-300RPM) So I can lower the amount of stupid shifting.
I think my tranny is Rock Solid just by using SS in city. I know a couple of people would say its worse but I think the tranny will crap itself either way, Using SS or AUTO Mode.
08-24-2011, 07:03 PM
#64
I just finished up doing a 3x3 flush and I used a total of 9.35 quarts. Looks like I'll get to return an unused quart to my Acura dealership. I haven't done much driving since the final flush (just went around the block so I could check the 'hot' level), so no comments on if anything has changed. Although, I don't know if I could isolate any changes specifically to the ATF, as today I also added 16 oz of Seafoam to a half tank of gas, sucked 8 oz of Seafoam through the vacuum line, added 8 oz of Seafoam to my oil and drove ~40 miles, and finally I changed my oil and filter using Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w20 (car has previously only ever had Quaker State 10w30). It's been a productive day!
08-26-2011, 08:59 AM
#65
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I have a 99 tl with the 4 speed tranny. You guys recommend changing to dw-1. I havent done any type of tranny fluid change and i just hit 102k mi. My tranny has been acting up for a Long while now. And I've learn to deal with it. When I switch from park to Drive, I would have to wait atleast a sec in order for my car to get a smooth pull off. if I don't wait and hit the gas I would here a big bang. Also happens when I change to reverse.
08-26-2011, 10:34 AM
#66
1-2 second delay getting into R or D when cold is normal according to acura
same warm according to most users
raising rpm increases line pressure, which is counter-productive to engagement
Rone- you say seafoam vac line--did you use the master vac metal tube/port at the TB?
we dont use a vac line
same warm according to most users
raising rpm increases line pressure, which is counter-productive to engagement
Rone- you say seafoam vac line--did you use the master vac metal tube/port at the TB?
we dont use a vac line
08-26-2011, 11:48 AM
#68
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It seems to do it worse when the transmission and or outside temp is cold. it shifts much smoother when it is fully warmed up.
08-26-2011, 11:59 AM
#69
99Ackrite
I have a 99 also and mine engages r or d smooth. I do have a flared shift from 2-3. Once its warmed up and at normal temp you can't even feel it. I just got the car and my fluid too is brown. Just scared to change it.
01tl4tl? Is the 4spd trans prone to the same death as the 5spd in the 00-03
01tl4tl? Is the 4spd trans prone to the same death as the 5spd in the 00-03
08-26-2011, 12:45 PM
#70
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08-26-2011, 03:39 PM
#71
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I have a 99 also and mine engages r or d smooth. I do have a flared shift from 2-3. Once its warmed up and at normal temp you can't even feel it. I just got the car and my fluid too is brown. Just scared to change it.
01tl4tl? Is the 4spd trans prone to the same death as the 5spd in the 00-03
01tl4tl? Is the 4spd trans prone to the same death as the 5spd in the 00-03
08-26-2011, 04:57 PM
#72
Moderator
Thread Starter
To "uleiro".
I had aftermarket oils in the TL-S and none have got rid of the delay you mention, just think of it as a side effect of being an older trans and Nothing to be worry.
1-2 Seconds is Normal to the Book Anyways.
To "Diva 4 Life"
If your oil is Brown = CHANGE IT ASAP!!
Brown Means = Lower Heat Dissipation, Lower Slip Protection = Less Tranny Life.
I had aftermarket oils in the TL-S and none have got rid of the delay you mention, just think of it as a side effect of being an older trans and Nothing to be worry.
1-2 Seconds is Normal to the Book Anyways.
To "Diva 4 Life"
If your oil is Brown = CHANGE IT ASAP!!
Brown Means = Lower Heat Dissipation, Lower Slip Protection = Less Tranny Life.
08-27-2011, 09:48 PM
#73
1-2 second delay getting into R or D when cold is normal according to acura
same warm according to most users
raising rpm increases line pressure, which is counter-productive to engagement
Rone- you say seafoam vac line--did you use the master vac metal tube/port at the TB?
we dont use a vac line
same warm according to most users
raising rpm increases line pressure, which is counter-productive to engagement
Rone- you say seafoam vac line--did you use the master vac metal tube/port at the TB?
we dont use a vac line
08-28-2011, 07:46 PM
#74
Racer
Changed 2x3 using the new synthetic fluid. I have about 65K miles on the original tranny and had changed the fluid only once 1x3 two years ago. Changing the fluid was very simple(almost as easy as oil change) and feel more confident in doing at least 1x3 once a year. The tranny feels buttery smooth and some of the "hunting" that happened doesn't seem to occur anymore. Glad that DIY thread was there to do this job. So far this year, changed the timing belt (at the dealer), replaced the spark plugs(DIY), fixed the back side of the heated seat(DIY), and tranny fluid change yesterday. I feel good about keeping my TL longer, although rust is starting to form around rear wheel arches. Still running on the original brakes and rotors after 8 years...that will probably be next job.
08-29-2011, 05:12 AM
#75
Moderator
Thread Starter
Rotors should be as Thin as Air they could probably break under extreme braking.
08-31-2011, 10:21 AM
#76
09-01-2011, 01:11 AM
#77
Racer
My brakes are fine. I drive a lot on the hwy so no need to change if it is not worn out.
Still shifting smoothly after a few days of driving. So far, satisfied with the new synthetic fluid.
Still shifting smoothly after a few days of driving. So far, satisfied with the new synthetic fluid.
09-03-2011, 12:40 PM
#78
when i changed the fluid to DW1, my tranny start to slip on 2nd gear and sometimes in 3rd to...so, i changed fluid from DW1 to Amsoil...nothing makes any difference...is this bad or should i wait til to finish my 3x3 fluid change??
10-19-2011, 03:08 AM
#79
Aaarggh! My 2002 TL Type S is on its third transmission, and after reading this thread I still have no idea what to do. I've been feeling neglectful because I haven't done anything to the transmission since it was last replaced in early 2010. At that time the service manager at the dealership that replaced it suggested that I change the atf once a year, even if I just bought the fluid from a dealership and had someone else do it. I thought it was interesting that a service manager would suggest that; then again he knew that I hadn't been a regular customer. Anyway, having my transmission start to slip right after changing the atf sounds like something that would totally happen to me. I guess I'm in what they call the "driving this car into the ground" stage, but it would be nice to have a car that I could get a decent transmission for--one that wasn't apparently likely to fail no matter how many times I replace it. At this point would I buy another Acura? I'd have to think long and hard about it.
10-19-2011, 10:30 AM
#80
2003 TL-p
i switched over to dw-1 300 miles ago, did two drain 3 add 3. so far its been only an improvement over z1. faster smoother shifts, better cold performance. i dont have any engagement issues or slipping as other stated before. my rebuilt tranny has about 13k miles on it, and had a drain 3 add 3 of z1 about 7k miles ago, so i hope i can prolong the life if it. will keep you posted on long term use of dw-1.