You dont need the internal filter. Its NOT serviceable, and there is NO trans pan on these trans.

 

The filter he is referring to is serviceable on the AV6 transmission. It replaces the spin off filter on the TL Transmission if he elect to keep that setup. I am using the same setup because it is more cost effective ($6) than the spin off and easier to inspect.

 

Yep. Now I just need to find the cooler filter

 

Only the '99 model TL's had a transmission cooler built into the rad.
Unsure about any "cooler" filter or location of....sorry !

 

I had the swap done...never shfited better...its been a few weeks now. Only thing is now I can't get the VSA light and exclamation triangle light to go out. So that means NO CRUISE CONTROL or TRACTION CONTROL!!!

 

Does this swap work on 02 Type S TOO?? I got quoted for 1200-1400 for a trans for my 02 tl-s but I just saw a 06 Odyssey trans (AV6) for 600 and with this diagram I think I may be able to do it myself. If it does work let me know so I could do the swap..

 

Hey sorry it took so long to respond. If you look on the Autozone website the 2 that come up if you search Transmission filter are the ones you'll need The spin on filter doesn't have an optional replacement. You can however use the filter that is cheaper that comes up if you search for a tranny filter for an AV6. It's an upgraded filter so better build quality anyway. So the Autozone part # for the spin on external filter is TF558. This tranny filter comes up for both the 03 TL and the 06/07 Accord V6 transmissions, TF532, and is interchangeable but it's the old style filter and costs significantly more. TF534 is the part number for the better, newer, cheaper filter. That's the one I bought and it's been fine. That's what I would recommend. Hope this helps!

 

hey guys i need to know how to print this. doing the swap this week and need it for my mechanic

 

So I just got my car back. I was under a time crunch so I ended up paying 975 for an 07 with 80k and then another 1050 for labor. Its driving smoothly but whenever I lift off the gas the grinding sound happens. Almost sounds like a wheel bearing but it was fine before I brought it in. Anyone run into that problem?

 

^ Seems like a Dry bearing..
It should go away with time let it soak the ATF for a Week or so before you start to worry.

 

Ok so after dragging my feet forever and my paycheck with mucho overtime, I made an appt. to get my TL-S in and swap the trans this Wednesday at 8am!
Anything I should tell my mechanic or just give him the printouts of this FAQ, my filters/fluid and be on my merry way? Any common issues arise? Questions mechanics ask? Also, they shouldn't be cracking the case either...
Drop old, compare & swap parts, replace filters, bolt on new, drive?

 

Dropped her off this morning at 8am with trans fluid, filters, this FAQ and just called them, 5pm - Said everything is going ok, just coming apart hard, taking their time so they don't break anything and want to do it right. Wonder if the AV6 trans has been sitting around for some time, bolts may be a little crusty or the parts to be swapped might not want to come off? I trust the shop, they've done great work on my TL-S in previous years!
Guess I'll be posting here tomorrow evening to celebrate my new trans with you guys.

(damnit... just remembered I forgot my shades in the sunglasses holder up top too)

 

Hi!

I'm neck deep in this swap after the third transmission in my 2000TL died at 170,000 miles. I've got the old tranny out, and the 2006 AV6 from LKQ just arrived (looks like it's been sitting outside the entire time).

I know it's well-known that we should use the AV6 torque converter, but I was wondering why that is the recommendation? I realize looks mean nothing compared to performance, but the AV6 torque converter looks terrible (rust everywhere).

Why should we use the AV6 torque converter instead of the TL's? Any specific upgrades or other reasons?

Additionally, is there a list / diagram of all the sensors on the TL transmission somewhere?

I see the same exploded diagram, but none actually label the parts. When someone says 'replace the solenoid pack', I'd like to know what that looks like and where it is...(just as an example).

I'm taking plenty of pictures of this endeavor for a write-up of somesort (provided I can get it all back together and working correctly).

 

Welcome RTH !!!
Check out some of the online Acura oem parts sources. Usually they have detailed diagrams with part name #'s.

Be sure to read through all of the "AV6" threads for more info as ya go along. While the tranny and TC may appear rusty on the outside.....chances are that it's a better bet than using your old worn our original one.
If in doubt, price out a new or reconditioned TC. By doing your own labor installing, .... ya have a few more bucks to play with parts.

 

Well after about 18 hrs of labor I got my car back this morning! The night before it got completed and had engine codes 1361 and 1366, he cleared them and drove it for about 15 miles - no codes came back on or any other lights.
I drove it to work today and no lights, seems to drive just fine. and OH those gear shifts... so buttery smooth... feels like a new car!! Glad to have my baby back! As long as those codes don't come back I won't worry, but does anyone know what those are??
Any pointers as to how I should be driving with the new trans? I took the 30-45mph back roads to work - just to get the trans fluid flowing, feel the gear shifts. I read that I should take it easy for the first week or so and then after drive normal for a week, then you can redline her after that.
Anyone have input on that?
I'm going to get the mechanics notes on the job because he said there was some mods they had to do for the parts swapping, but it all went on and bolted up well! I'll post back what kind of "mods" were necessary.
Now I just can't wait to get out of work and drive my "new" car!!!
big thanks to 666wokker for this FAQ and 03blackbeast for some info!

 

P1361 = a possible malfunction of the TDC1 Sensor Circuit.

P1366 = A possible problem with the TDC2 Sensor Circuit.

If ya were not having those codes prior to the tranny replacement, it could be just a communications glitch with the computer. Simply reset the CEL and see if it comes back. Perhaps wiring harness/connector was disturbed ?

Cheers on the new AV6 and breathing new life into your TL !!!
Be sure to update us with the shop's notes and any other details, thanks !

 

Hi guys,

I just bought a 2001 Acura Cl-S automatic tranny with 96,000 miles and a bad tranny. Will the 2007 Accord 3.0 automatic tranny work for my car? I just want to get verification once more before I buy it from the salvage yard.

 

As long as it is 06-07 AT from the 3.0 V6 Accord then yes, it should work just dandy!

 

or......find an "S" 6 speed stick for true driving delight !!!

 

Ok so i drove the car home from my friends house which is about 15 miles going no faster than 29mph on D3. Once getting closer to my house i speed up to 45mph and the car had no problems shifting and no jerking/hesitation. Could there be something else wrong? Check engine light is on so i am going to take it to AUTOZONE to pull the code tomorrow.

 

Assuming the car was sold "as is" with a bad tranny, did the seller give ya any details on the problem ?
Is the "D5" indicator flashing ? The tranny issues probably have caused a default to limp mode. Get the "CEL" codes read and tell us what they are. How is the tranny's fluid level ? Does it smell burnt or seem dark in color ?

 

So i finally had some time to take the car to O'reillys and they said the CEL was for the code P0730 which is more likely the transmission. So i decided to compare the salvage yards 2007 Accord 3.0 tranny with my 2001 acura CL-S tranny and i noticed that the AV6 tranny has two mounting bolt threads that my 2001 CL-S does not have. Is this right or does the salvage yard have the wrong year tranny. Here is the picture of the 2007 accord tranny and bolt thread circled in red

 

Also the 2007 accord 3.0 tranny has a sticker that says "BAYA-9079602" and "7RAYAE6" "DUPLICATE" if this helps or matters

 

Yes the AV6 has bolts on top that you wont be using once installed..

 

^^^^^

Don't think too much into it. It's a proven method for the TL/CL premium and Type S models. Have it done on mine and have been running it for about 5K now with no problems and it seems to get smoother every day. Just drop it in and go.

 

As others have said, you won't be using those bolt holes on the TL. They are for a transmission mount that exists in that location on the Accord.

 

ok thanks alot guys!

 

Pictures disappeared. Any one helps me???

 

Hey, I'm in my garage working on this swap for my 2001 TL Acura that had its second transmission die at 125k.

I'm looking at the two side-by-side. On the first step where the wire harness gets swapped out and I'm looking at the oil pressure sensor. Or at least I think that's what it is... #13 in the first TL diagram of these instructions. Anyway, it doesn't fit the TL wire harness, it looks like they have different connectors. Is it OK to move this TL sensor over along with the harness? Also #12 sensor from that diagram, the plastic on the connector was cracked.... can I replace that as well?

Thanks for this helpful write on the swap! I'm so pumped to not be putting in another TL transmission...

 

anyone know the number to the passage body gasket. #25 in the diagram

 

Okcity: I got mine here

 

*bump*

Anybody know the answer to this? Really would appreciate any insight you guys would have

 

Does anyone 3x3 the trans fluid after the AV6 swap? I thought I saw someone post a rule of thumb to 3x3 change the fluid after 3k miles of the AV6 swap, but can't seem to find the thread.

I did the AV6 swap about 4 weeks ago (still runs better than it ever has and seems to get better every day ) and never changed the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches with the swap.

I'd like to get those replaced during the next trans oil change - the sooner the better, just don't want to be changing the fluid too soon (if possible?) because ~$8 a bottle of DW-1 sucks

 

Just test drove the 03 s type. I swapped in a 06 odyssey tranny 65k I got for 350 bucks. Worked like a dream! Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciated it.

 

^ Always wondered about the Odyssey tranny Ratios? Its the same ala Accord/Type-S or its TL-p Ratios?

 

Yeah Deadbirdjb, keep us posted on the progress and how the tranny works out down the road.
Good to hear things worked out !!!

 

Just got my 2001 Acura CL-S back from my friends shop after swapping the tranny out with a 2007 Accord V6 tranny and so far after one day of driving everything seems to be functioning great. Drove her up to 90 MPH for work and run errands with no issues. Shifts smooth and I am VERY pleased. About to take pics and get her ready to be sold to the next owner.

 

I picked up a 2003 TL that will barely roll under its own power and only when its cold. I have some questions; I can get a 2003 "S type" that I can test before buying. ($600) I can do a 05 or 06 Accord but most are over 120,000 miles but the cost is high. The other thought is to rebuild the one I have.

The oil is burnt so if I rebuild, I rebuild/replace ever thing. But this would still be a 1st Gen build??

Sorry about hi jacking but have to do the 5 posts (-1) to build my own post.

PS the car is going to my 17 year od for his first car. He spent the day walking though yards to find a couple of missing parts form isde the car. Great day.

 

Just wanted to thank everyone here for sharing such great information. I read more than I post.

I swapped in a 2007 Accord transmission this weekend into my wife's 2000 Acura TL. I would have never known about this without your help.

It took me about 18 hours, I just took it slow and tried to be as organized as possible. I kept the honda filter setup but I did move over the warmer due to the hose size difference between the Honda and Acura.

So far so good

 

I paid close to $3000 to have the transmission rebuilt in our 2000 TL a few years back, it lasted 30,000 miles. This weekend I installed the Honda Accord transmission I purchased with 90K miles on it for $760. I can't speak for the longevity of the Honda transmission, but I think it makes more fiscal sense to find a good used Honda transmission. I think you'll spend the same rebuilding and you'll still have a problem-plagued design.