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Isn't there a risk in doing this? Let's say you buy an AV6 tranny and for some reason it didn't work because of the electronics, now your local mechanic won't be able to fix it, if you take it to dealership, they won't even touch it. You will end up with non returnable tranny. Is there anything you have to do, electronically , like programming etc? or that's non issue.
Isn't there a risk in doing this? Let's say you buy an AV6 tranny and for some reason it didn't work because of the electronics, now your local mechanic won't be able to fix it, if you take it to dealership, they won't even touch it. You will end up with non returnable tranny. Is there anything you have to do, electronically , like programming etc? or that's non issue.
Depends what you mean by electronics. There are solenoids, sensors, etc on the transmission, but not electronics in the sense of say an ECU or whatnot. It is entirely possible that the donor tranny doesn't work for some reason. IMO it's best to find a car with body damage, because you know for sure the car was running when it wrecked. Just make sure the tranny looks to be in good condition and isn't cracked and doesn't have damage to solenoids or connectors.
Once you do the swap any diagnostics and fixes short of pulling the tranny and cracking it open will be virtually identical to the old transmission, if you take it somewhere. But really, if you can change your own transmission why would you have to take it anywhere? It either works or it doesn't, if it doesn't work you can try making sure the fluid is clean and filled properly, filter is good, all the solenoids work and screen are clear, and if all that checks out and the tranny is toast there really isn't anything left to do but rebuild it or swap in a new one.
I initially kept my oil jet after the AV6 swap, but then deleted it after a period of time by using OEM tubing. The bottom line is that the redesigned case of the AV6 trans is supposed to address the lack of lubrication that was present in the old trans and band-aided by the oil jet kit. However, if you choose the leave the oil jet in place, it shouldn't cause any harm to the AV6 transmission.
Hey Guys, Looking to replace tranny in 2001, 3.2TL
I know I need to select 3.0 AT, V6, Accord
which option would I select from below?
AT cpe 3.0 L or At sdn 3.0L, non hybrid?
AT, Sdn, 2.4L, Mexico built
MT, Cpe, 2.4L
MT, Cpe, 3.0L
AT, Cpe, 2.4L
AT, Cpe, 3.0L
AT, Sdn, 2.4L, Japan built
AT, Sdn, 2.4L, US built
AT, Sdn, 3.0L, VIN M (5th digit)
AT, Sdn, 3.0L, VIN N (5th digit, hybrid)
MT, Sdn, 2.4L
MT, Sdn, 3.0L
Teardown:
It doesn´t matter if it comes from the Coupe (Cpe) or Sedan (Sdn).
It must be AT obviously as MT = Manual Transmission.
And it cannot come from the Hybrid which also was an option with the 3.0L Engine.
Engine must be the 3.0L (V6).
So many people are having such a positive thing to say about swap. I wish I could do this myself which I'm not that mechanically savvy to do it. or there would be at least one mechanic who would be willing to do this in your area. Anyone know how to go about finding a mechanic who would do this?
Well, I got the back motor mount. Have spent the whole afternoon attempting to remove the existing one. The second bolt up on the motor case brace, I have attempted 1) regular socket 2) regular socket + extension 3) standard deep socket 4) impact socket 5) flex joint with all the previous 6) air rachet. All from underneath the car.
Then I tried extra blocks of wood and lifting the engine higher - still would not clear / release through the bracket.
At this point, I am about to set the whole car on fire
Can you remember how you got to that top bolt on the engine mount bracket attached to the engine case?
I checked videos on youtube - all are against 3G and none actually showed the work - just talking through it. Yeah right, I will believe when I see it
IIRC, you have to get to that bolt from above and basically have to feel your way to it. There is a DIY here somewhere that walks you through all the steps.
Well we did the swap and the car runs great. (2003 TLS)
We changed the cooler, the wiring harnesses and marked and changed the range switch. We kept the honda passage body which holds the filer, ie the part under the cooler and the lines that come out of it. No lights, noises or any indication of an error.
Im guessing I deleted the oil jet. On the TLS Tranny there was a line that ran from the screw on filter to the back of the tranny. Out of the middle of this line was another line that attached to the filler plug. Is this the oil jet????
On the Honda Tranny the there is a line that goes from the filter to the back of the tranny but no additional line comes out of it and the filler hole lug does not have a hose attaching to it.
We left the honda tranny line in to keep it as stock as possible. I kept the parts though so if that sounds like a bad move let. me know and we will switch it out.
The car runs better than ever. The old tranny was toast. Grey burnt oil.
I never expected to put this much money into this car. Buyer beware. This year tls is sweet but the tranny issue is a costly setback especially for a car that in excellent condition only scores a value of like $4000 on kbb.
I have about 7k into it now including the price of the car to begin with and I am hoping that it lasts me a couple years.
New brakes all around, new tires (BFG Advantage), new control arms, new ac compressor, new tranny, new tie rod end, couple new bearings, new e brake shoes, couple new calipers...
It's been a very costly trip so far. If this swap doesn't work I will probably push it off a cliff, and cry for a very long time.
Next up I need to paint two more calipers and take care of a tiny bit of rust on the body. Also I eventually will need a new subframe and radiator.
Also the whine others have talked about on their tl trannys went away with the av6. Before there was a cool whistle noise when I would accelerate. Now its all engine. It moves too. Very quick. I am not sure if it is quicker or not.
Acknowledging the difficult bolt, he suggested a racheting wrench. My 14mm would not fit within the channel to get the bolt.
Guessing I am going to need to drop the exhaust - which is what I was attempting to avoid during the job.
I did get the AV6 trans from LQK. Switched all the parts but had to order one sensor that was broke. Trying to get this motor mount completed so I move on to the primary job - installing the transmission.
The non hybrid tranny's VIN will have M and hybrid tranny's VIN will have N. Is this correct?
Yes that's correct, it's from the VIN on the Accord they came out of. Sometimes in listings they will mention the VIN letter and sometimes they will say "non hybrid", sometimes both.
Ok, have the back mount replaced. I am planning to replace all the mounts.
While I am waiting on delivery of a sensor (plastic harness connector was broken off one of them) I am trying to do most of the maintenance while I am in there.
I have replaced the input shaft seal on the AV6 trans, the axle seals and the torque converter o-ring on the AV6 trans.
I also started to replace the rear main seal (its not currently leaking) on the engine. However, when looking at the rear main seal, I realized that I did not mark the alignment/relationship of the drive plate to the crankshaft before removal (Haynes manual suggests that). I used an air/impact to remove the driveplate bolts - so the crank has not moved. I have searched but cannot find any information on how to align. So, my question to the experienced here is whether I am in trouble now or not.
I have also held up the drive/flex plate to the AV6 trans/converter. I cannot find any specific markings / oval holes or anything else that would indicate the flex plate only attaches to the torque converter in only a specific way. I am assuming as long as I use correct torque to bolt together - I am good to go.
I wouldn't worry about the original relationship of the drive plate to the crank. The factory shop manual does not state that this required when removing and reinstalling the drive plate.
The same holds true for the torque converter bolts. Just spin the torque converter by hand to line up the bolt holes and you're good to go. However, keep in mind that the bolts should be tightened in a star pattern so that everything pulls together evenly.
You are daring. I just left the seals on mine. They looked great. I actually bought a lot of seals from acura and advanced to have on hand but didn't change any because they all looked great.
My car seems to be running fine. No errors. No lights. No loud noises.
Tranny does sound different. Still watching my gas consumption.
Would love to hear from those who kept the av6 filter. Did you swap the line going to the back of the tranny? Did you keep the av6 filler plug? Or did you swap in the tl line and plug that has a line attached?
Also I find the dip stick is tough to read. The fluid doesn't really bead up in a single spot. It kind of splatters up the stick and hang on the twist at the bottom. Trying to figure out if I'm over it under but I'm having a rough time.
Hard to believe but this car is 13 years old now. I DO NOT want to pull the trans again. Changing seals / back engine mount now - hopefully prevents that.
Also new brakes and struts while I have everything apart.
Savemytls, wish I had the type s. will have everything put back together by the weekend and wondering how the steering will feel without that additional assist from the TL trans.
I am debating the passage body / filter. Reading earlier posts on this tread, either one is acceptable - some have commented the AV6 filter is less expensive.
You are daring. I just left the seals on mine. They looked great. I actually bought a lot of seals from acura and advanced to have on hand but didn't change any because they all looked great.
My car seems to be running fine. No errors. No lights. No loud noises.
Tranny does sound different. Still watching my gas consumption.
Would love to hear from those who kept the av6 filter. Did you swap the line going to the back of the tranny? Did you keep the av6 filler plug? Or did you swap in the tl line and plug that has a line attached?
Also I find the dip stick is tough to read. The fluid doesn't really bead up in a single spot. It kind of splatters up the stick and hang on the twist at the bottom. Trying to figure out if I'm over it under but I'm having a rough time.
FYI I swapped over the dip stick due to a bracket on the dip stick tube. The tubes are different lengths so if you swap the tube, swap over your old dipstick too.
The tube should have two holes, the fluid needs to be between them. If the fluid was higher than the hole, it will be filled with fluid.
Well I got the atf straightened out. We put 4 quarts in after the swap. Each time I checked it out seemed to be above the two holes but there were dry spots along the stick below the fluid line I thought I had.
At first I thought I over filled it. Then I started thinking that maybe the stick was picking up oil stuck on the side of the tube.
I decided to put more atf in. Finally after adding an additional 1.75 quartz I saw the atf real thick at the bottom of the stick. I brought it up past the first hole and could tell it looked right.
I also put a bend in my Honda dip stick handle. The direction of the bend has to intersect the direction of the dip stick blade so that the stick itself can bend naturally back and forward in the same direction that you bend the handle. This let me better maneuver the dipstick in and out of the tranny, avoiding the battery cables and lines above.
I am now confident I have a good reading. Total atf after the swap...6.75 quarts.
I also painted my brake calipers black in the back. The look pretty sweet.
Ok, have the sensor part I was waiting for. I will be reassembling this weekend. I do have a question from the original post
" ^...In this diagram #'s 5 and 25 need to come off the TL trans and be installed on the AV6 trans - ++++++It does need to be adjusted to read the gears correctly, do this after the job is mostly done and the car can be turned on, key on-engine off.++++...^
I assume this is just resetting the computer - right (or is it a manual adjustment?). If it is computer, I would think the computer is ready to reset since I have had the battery disconnected for two weeks. As he indicated, key on/engine off for a few minutes then turn the car on and just let it warm up in idle mode - correct?
I can't see the pic that this refers to, but I presume that it's about the range sensor. If that's the case, the key on, engine off is so that you can confirm that the correct gear displays on the gauge cluster as you move the shifter. When I did my swap, all I did was mark the bolt positions on the range sensor before taking it off the TL trans and then I installed it on the AV6 trans using those same marks. I did not need to do any further adjustments once the trans was in the car and everything was reconnected.
Ok, have the sensor part I was waiting for. I will be reassembling this weekend. I do have a question from the original post
" ^...In this diagram #'s 5 and 25 need to come off the TL trans and be installed on the AV6 trans - ++++++It does need to be adjusted to read the gears correctly, do this after the job is mostly done and the car can be turned on, key on-engine off.++++...^
I assume this is just resetting the computer - right (or is it a manual adjustment?). If it is computer, I would think the computer is ready to reset since I have had the battery disconnected for two weeks. As he indicated, key on/engine off for a few minutes then turn the car on and just let it warm up in idle mode - correct?
The range sensor reads the position of a shaft that is rotated by the gear selector to tell what gear you are in. The sensor mounting screws allow you to rotate the sensor back and forth to get it in the correct position. After installing, run through all gear positions with key in the ON position and make sure all the positions indicate correctly on the dash. If they don't, you will have to rotate the sensor one way or the other to compensate. Mine didn't need any adjustment, luckily.
I believe the sensor has a detent in the neutral position, so you can rotate the sensor until it clicks in neutral, put the gear shift in neutral, line everything up and tighten it down. I didn't do that because I installed the sensor before putting the tranny in the car, but if you have trouble after installing the tranny you can try that to start with.
Also the whine others have talked about on their tl trannys went away with the av6. Before there was a cool whistle noise when I would accelerate. Now its all engine.
Yep same here, put up with that whine for years and didn't know what it was. After the swap, it's completely gone.
From what I can tell the position of this range switch relates to the position of your shifter in your car.
The Honda range switch will not fit the electrical cable for the acura tl so you will need to take the range switch off the acura tranny and install it on the av6.
Before removing the switch from the tls tranny mark its position in the switch itself. Then once you install it on the av6 you can adjust the switch to the position you marked off if needed.
This way it won't matter if you dropped your tranny in neutral and the junkyard dropped the av6 in park.
After you install and set the range switch you will have to modify the tl range switch cover to fit on the av6. This modification should be obvious by looking at both covers and trying to fit them on the tranny.
When you install the av6 in your car the range switch will match the position of your shifter and everyone one will be happy. No additional calibration will be needed.
1) What does this vacume hose loop (see pic just right of the brown / red selenoid connector) do? The AV6 had a little different design for where it connected (off the bracket over the warner). However, I have used the TL bracket. So I want back to the looped vacume hose that was on the TL. Do I just plug one end?
Black vacume hose loop right of center in the picture
2) Second question. This is stupid (I am aware of it) but forgive me because this is the first time I have taken on a project this big. My learning, I should have taken some pictures as I was disassembling.
I have hooked all the wire harness/connectors back up to the AV6 - save one. There are two large grey pigtails on the firewall side of the engine harness. One connects to the range switch (got that one). The other - I can't for the life of me find the other connection (see pic). What does this connect to? Its only 6-8 inches long so there should be another pigtail loose but cannot find it. Does anyone have a good harness diagram?
The second pic is a little blurry, but if that plug is on the same harness as the plug for the range sensor, it should plug into the countershaft speed sensor, which is located next to the fill plug.
08-01-2016, 08:16 PM
