When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The speed sensor is missing from the AV6 trans? Hmm that is weird, I wonder why it would have been removed. He's trying to swap in the TL speed sensor and it won't fit? I don't know what differs on the parts, if anything. But yeah, most of the sensors don't need to be touched except for the range sensor, which does need to be swapped over. If the speed sensor is missing and is in fact different, might have to get ahold of one for the AV6. Hopefully someone else with more knowledge can chime in.
Hey guys! First post,
I have my 03 TL in a shop right now for the AV6 swap and provided the instructions to my mechanic told me that when trying to put the AV6 transmission into the TL, the speed sensor is not on the AV6. and that it doesn't fit when trying to put it in. I was wondering if you guys have heard of this before or anything related to the speed sensor, that he could be talking about? I remember reading it should be a direct bolt-on and the sensors shouldn't need to be touched, so that is why I'm concerned.
(the tranny is a 2007 v6 accord tranny with 80k)
Thanks,
Dennis
He's talking about the power steering speed sensor. There is no spot for it on the AV6 transmission and it has to be removed and bypassed. The end result will be that you will have slightly stiffer steering at low speeds.
This is only an issue with TL-P models since the TL-S has a different steering setup and it doesn't have that sensor.
He's talking about the power steering speed sensor. There is no spot for it on the AV6 transmission and it has to be removed and bypassed. The end result will be that you will have slightly stiffer steering at low speeds.
This is only an issue with TL-P models since the TL-S has a different steering setup and it doesn't have that sensor.
You are exactly correct! Just went to the shop and my mechanic showed me the issue and I referenced the last page/pic of the instructions, all is well. Everything else is good to go and it should be ready to pick up on Wednesday
Thank you guys for the fast responses.
Another questions fellas. I'm getting a 00-03 j32a2 type s swap tomorrow. What all would I need besides the ecu ?I believe everything else is there. Now would a 02 type a ecu function correctly? I found one for $75
Another questions fellas. I'm getting a 00-03 j32a2 type s swap tomorrow. What all would I need besides the ecu ?I believe everything else is there. Now would a 02 type a ecu function correctly? I found one for $75
Are you swapping an 03 trans in to a 1999¿
Last edited by Wildfire.ca; 07-12-2016 at 06:02 PM.
I can not help you, I know nothing about the CL swap. I can tell you that the TL trans is a peice of shit. I would not put one in my car and expect it to last.
Speaking of that my mechanic was saying that there was a "kit" that fixes the TL trans 2nd and 3rd gear clutch packs. I said no just put the AV6 in there. Have any of you used the "kit" with success? I have read about the "kit" before but it seemed to work 50% of the time
Last edited by Wildfire.ca; 07-12-2016 at 06:12 PM.
In process. I checked and followed the youtube video - so good so far. One question, do you need to remove the passenger axel before attempting to remove? That was not covered in the video - unsure if it needs to be removed / enough room to move the transmission in the engine bay without removing it. Anyone remember what they did?
In process. I checked and followed the youtube video - so good so far. One question, do you need to remove the passenger axel before attempting to remove? That was not covered in the video - unsure if it needs to be removed / enough room to move the transmission in the engine bay without removing it. Anyone remember what they did?
You need to pop it off... though you dont necessarily have to pull it all the way out, the spindle needs to be removed from the transmission... and the only way to do that is to start removing it from the hub, then you need to remove the half shaft bearing... then pop the axle out
Ok, thanks. I pulled the drivers side - popped it out very easily with a pry bar.
For the passenger, I removed the hub but the axel looks different so I was unsure. So, next is to remove the bracket that supports the axel half way through (assume this is the half shaft bearing)? Then I use a pry bar to pop the axel out just like the drivers?
Ok, last question. The engine and trans are not separating as easily as I thought. I have all the bolts out and have a slight gap between the two (see pic). From here, it is just a pry bar to separate the two or are there any tricks I could employ? From the looks of it, there are "guide" pins midway up the trans - once those are out, it should be separated, correct?
Ok, last question. The engine and trans are not separating as easily as I thought. I have all the bolts out and have a slight gap between the two (see pic). From here, it is just a pry bar to separate the two or are there any tricks I could employ? From the looks of it, there are "guide" pins midway up the trans - once those are out, it should be separated, correct?
Yes. Just pry it carefully... did you remove front engine mount bracket? If all bolts are out, just carefully pry it... make sure it is leveled for easier removal...
Ok, found the issue. One bolt still in the tranny. The one above the half axle. I do not see how you can get to this without removing the axle. So guess the whole axle (bearing and all) needs to be removed to get to that bolt - a little frustrated but keeping at it.
Thanks Skirmich, I remember reading you paid to have it installed (good choice). I have done CV axles before (honda accord) but not one with an intermediate shaft into the transmission.
Sorry for asking what is probably amateur questions - but I could not find anything (even on AcuraZine) about how to remove these intermediate axles.
I have the CV / axle spine removed from the hub. Now the axle is still attached to the motor housing via the half shaft bearing assembly and then into the passenger side trans (diff).
CP13 indicated I needed to remove the half shaft bearing assembly (bracket) then I could pry the axle out - your thoughts as well?
I am pretty capable but have not taken on a project this big before. I first tried to have the junk yard mechanic install the BAYA. He showed me the correct transmission. I gave him the instructions and he said he knew what to do / which parts to switch. But when I picked the car up it had the same slipping transmission issue. When I looked at the transmission, he had removed the sticker (so I could not tell what was in the car). It still had the oil jet and the 1st/3rd new switches I had put on it in my attempts to resolve the issue before resorting to the new transmission. So I am assuming he left the same transmission in the car and just took off the sticker. From what I could tell, all he did was overfill the trans fluid in attempt to resolve the issue - then charged me the $1300.
A lesson to check and then double check the reputation of the shop you are using.
Anyway, that is why I am now doing the work myself.
Just FYI we didn't have to remove the intermediate shaft..
The only thing holding the trans to that intermediate shaft is the C-Rings (The ones that keep the CVs fixed in the yoke) that needs to "pop-off" and then trans will slide.
When we removed the BAYA out of the donor vehicle we also had that problem that the trans will not separate enough, it was that intermediate shaft getting stuck inside the diff. A few wiggles and the trans slides off.
I am pretty capable but have not taken on a project this big before. I first tried to have the junk yard mechanic install the BAYA. He showed me the correct transmission. I gave him the instructions and he said he knew what to do / which parts to switch. But when I picked the car up it had the same slipping transmission issue. When I looked at the transmission, he had removed the sticker (so I could not tell what was in the car). It still had the oil jet and the 1st/3rd new switches I had put on it in my attempts to resolve the issue before resorting to the new transmission. So I am assuming he left the same transmission in the car and just took off the sticker. From what I could tell, all he did was overfill the trans fluid in attempt to resolve the issue - then charged me the $1300.
A lesson to check and then double check the reputation of the shop you are using.
Anyway, that is why I am now doing the work myself.
DAMNNNN you should burn that shop online... At least post it here so forum members in your area don't fall for that again.
Ok, thanks. I had to take a break this afternoon from doing this work in my hot garage so I have not attempted to remove the intermediate shaft yet. Unless moving the transmission in the engine bay will pop off the C-rings, it seems to me you would need the intermediate shaft "loose" enough to move it towards the wheels to disengage it from the diff. The bearing bracket does not allow the intermediate shaft to move at all.
Ok, Haynes book says to remove exhaust to then remove bearing support-to-engine block bolts - arggg.
There's no need to remove the exhaust to get to the 3 bolts that attach the intermediate shaft bracket to the block. Once the axle is out of the intermediate shaft bearing, there is plenty of room to get to the top bolt and the bottom right bolt. The bottom left bolt can be accessed in between the down pipes and/or by reaching around the top of the intermediate shaft bearing.
There is no retaining clip on the splines of the intermediate shaft that go into the differential, so it should slide out very easily once the bolts are out.
Thx MBP03, about to get started. Was able to get the last bolt our ot the transmission last night with a 18-24" extension through the passenger wheel well. Will pull the passenger axle this morning then, theoritically, this beast slides out of the engine bay without too much drama - looks like a tight fit and very heavy, should be interesting.
Success, thanks for input. It is a tight fit and of course and I had gravity helping but I am not going to complain.
Get the AV6 on Monday. All I have got to do now is figure out the PS loop. While in there I will do some other items - new KYB struts, brakes all the way around and lower ball joints (things I have done before).
Next weekend tackle the timing belts / drive belts.
Then I will have a 2003 / 97K miles - ready for my kid to take to College.
I have read this thread several times before attempting this swap. I took note of th stiffer PowerSteering (I do not have a Type S).
Just wondering (have not thoughly researched), I have experience swaping parts on the old CB7s (accords), is there a Type S part swap that would eliminate this downfall for the base models?
Glad you got it out! IMO it makes the job way easier to remove both axles and completely remove the intermediate shaft. Two of the bolts on the bearing bracket can be accessed from the area where the axle used to be, and I used a flex head ratchet and u-joint to reach the last one.
I sincerely advice you to do the REAR Engine Mount as its very easy to change with the trans out.. Also replace all transmission mounts (They are very cheap).
If money isn't tight do the front engine mount too.
Yes, the bottom left bolt on the intermediate shaft bracket was a challenge (one of those 1/4 turn at a time ones). Should make it easier to bolt back up now that the shaft is out. Lining that heavy trans back up for re-install - I expect another battle we will see.
Motor mounts, back one could be a challenge to reach with it being jacked 18" off the ground. Will give it a shot though.
I see RockAuto has a DEA brand kit with all the mounts. All 5 mounts for $70. Any thoughts on this brand? I am not familiar with them.
Last edited by pbeck66; 07-31-2016 at 05:41 PM.
Reason: change
What-ever you do, don't cheap out on the Front & Rear Engine mount, being hydraulic assisted the cheap ones tend to last very little before leaking, Also for that price I think that is the DEA Solid Mounts (Not Hydro Assisted) so you will get a slight vibration at idle vs Hydro Assisted.
The trans mounts you can go cheapo if you want they are very basic and last a lifetime if you don't let the engine mounts go bad.
OEM is very expensive if you can afford it then go for it..
But If you can get the Rear and Front aftermarket engine mounts with a GOOD Warranty you are set.
Motor mounts, back one could be a challenge to reach with it being jacked 18" off the ground. Will give it a shot though.
Put a thick blanket on top of the engine since whatever you will need to do from the top will be done with you laying on the engine. Having the transmission out makes this job a lot easier since you will also need to access bolts from the bottom and you will have a lot more room to work.
Getting to the rear mount is still a PITA with the tranny out. DO NOT CHEAP OUT, I put DEA mounts in and I have lots of vibration at idle. I have since changed the front mount to OEM and will change the rear eventually.
07-11-2016, 05:50 PM
