Driver Side Radiator Fan - Stays On When Car Is Off
#1
Driver Side Radiator Fan - Stays On When Car Is Off
Hello,
When I am driving around in town - stop and goes etc for some time when i turn my car off the driver side radiator fan stays on. Usually for 10 to 15 minutes. If I am on the freeway, get off and turn the car off it does not do this. I assume it is because there is more airflow? Not sure....
In doing some research on this it sounds like my "fan temp sensor A" needs to be replaced.
Can someone please confirm this? Please provide a link to where I can buy one. I want to make sure I buy the right thing.
Also a description of how to replace it would be awesome! I am not too car savvy, but with the help of you guys I think I can do it
Thank you!!!
When I am driving around in town - stop and goes etc for some time when i turn my car off the driver side radiator fan stays on. Usually for 10 to 15 minutes. If I am on the freeway, get off and turn the car off it does not do this. I assume it is because there is more airflow? Not sure....
In doing some research on this it sounds like my "fan temp sensor A" needs to be replaced.
Can someone please confirm this? Please provide a link to where I can buy one. I want to make sure I buy the right thing.
Also a description of how to replace it would be awesome! I am not too car savvy, but with the help of you guys I think I can do it
Thank you!!!
#2
Moderator
Your A/C Fan is toasted.
When you are in low/high traffic or low speed the A/C Fan turns on with the Engine Fan so both cool the car off at lower speeds (So they don't make much noise) if your A/C Fan is Toasted your driver fan is only turning on at half speed like it would normally do with the A/C Fan but since that fan isn't running the engine doesn't have enough air-flow to cool off. That is why when you are at the highway doesn't happen as RAM Air is doing the A/C Fan job.
I would start by testing your A/C Fan.
With the car turn off and hood open:
1.- Turn key to position II (DONT START THE ENGINE) just let the dash light up
2.- Turn on your A/C in FULL COLD
3.- Check your fans! Both fans should now be turning.
If the A/C Fan isn't turning is toasted but odds are it is toasted, since both fans should come ON when the car is HOT after turning it off! 10-15 minutes is too much to cool the radiator once the engine stops running, 1-10 is normal. Sounds like only 1 fan is working in your car.
When you are in low/high traffic or low speed the A/C Fan turns on with the Engine Fan so both cool the car off at lower speeds (So they don't make much noise) if your A/C Fan is Toasted your driver fan is only turning on at half speed like it would normally do with the A/C Fan but since that fan isn't running the engine doesn't have enough air-flow to cool off. That is why when you are at the highway doesn't happen as RAM Air is doing the A/C Fan job.
I would start by testing your A/C Fan.
With the car turn off and hood open:
1.- Turn key to position II (DONT START THE ENGINE) just let the dash light up
2.- Turn on your A/C in FULL COLD
3.- Check your fans! Both fans should now be turning.
If the A/C Fan isn't turning is toasted but odds are it is toasted, since both fans should come ON when the car is HOT after turning it off! 10-15 minutes is too much to cool the radiator once the engine stops running, 1-10 is normal. Sounds like only 1 fan is working in your car.
Last edited by Skirmich; 03-27-2015 at 03:17 PM.
#3
This is the 4th thread you have posted for this topic, 2 in CL and 2 in TL. I deleted one thread yesterday and you reposted it today.
I know you are anxious for an answer but this is not the way to go about it.
I will leave this thread open in TL and the one in CL but I am deleting one of the older threads so be satisfied with two open threads in two forums and please do not post another one.
I know you are anxious for an answer but this is not the way to go about it.
I will leave this thread open in TL and the one in CL but I am deleting one of the older threads so be satisfied with two open threads in two forums and please do not post another one.
#4
its most likely the fan sensor A, location depends on car year but its unscrew and screw new on in - that's it
We have a complete DIY section, look at top of list of threads about 5th down is
`NEW Official 2nd gen DIY`
If BOTH fans run when ac is ON, that part described in the thread above is probably ok
Does engine temp stay dead steady just below half or is it climbing when stopped or moving at all from normal?- that indicates leak problem, even water pump is suspect so we need to do 1 test at a time
Start here:
CK the level in reserve bottle for radiator, and level inside radiator WHEN COLD-
DO NOT open rad cap when slightest bit hot- the painful scalding of your chest is bogus~
Bottle should be at lower line when cold, make sure hose inside cap is on tight!
Rad should be up to the filler neck, if 1 inch below that's a problem- air in system can trick the fan sensor A into not running the fan while driving, and running after shutdown as OP described
So that's where you start- ck levels, if good proceed to ac on test of fans
if both fans are good,
go to any parts store and tell them what you need
they know,,- you are not the first with this failure
if 99 its located on top of engine at thermostat housing
00 and later lower right corner of radiator
again- find the diy section -your new buddy
We have a complete DIY section, look at top of list of threads about 5th down is
`NEW Official 2nd gen DIY`
If BOTH fans run when ac is ON, that part described in the thread above is probably ok
Does engine temp stay dead steady just below half or is it climbing when stopped or moving at all from normal?- that indicates leak problem, even water pump is suspect so we need to do 1 test at a time
Start here:
CK the level in reserve bottle for radiator, and level inside radiator WHEN COLD-
DO NOT open rad cap when slightest bit hot- the painful scalding of your chest is bogus~
Bottle should be at lower line when cold, make sure hose inside cap is on tight!
Rad should be up to the filler neck, if 1 inch below that's a problem- air in system can trick the fan sensor A into not running the fan while driving, and running after shutdown as OP described
So that's where you start- ck levels, if good proceed to ac on test of fans
if both fans are good,
go to any parts store and tell them what you need
they know,,- you are not the first with this failure
if 99 its located on top of engine at thermostat housing
00 and later lower right corner of radiator
again- find the diy section -your new buddy
#5
This is on an 01 type s
Thank you for the replies.
As suggested by someone else, I checked my reservoir today and it was almost empty. So I filled it up. Tomorrow I will top off the radiator - though it should just take from the reservoir.
My engine temp stays dead steady right below half.
I will try the AC fan test tomorrow and report back.
Thanks again
Thank you for the replies.
As suggested by someone else, I checked my reservoir today and it was almost empty. So I filled it up. Tomorrow I will top off the radiator - though it should just take from the reservoir.
My engine temp stays dead steady right below half.
I will try the AC fan test tomorrow and report back.
Thanks again
#6
the reservoir is for transfer of coolant between rad- when engine is shut down some fluid goes to res, when cold it gets sucked back over.
it WONT transfer if level in rad is too low for proper suction to occur
MUST top off rad if bottle was low
res bottle fill to COLD/lower line = not full!!!
if res bottle low ck its hose inside cap, ck rad cap condition, pressure test rad, ck fan operation
low coolant level can trick that fan sensor, so start with rad level and go from there
low coolant can introduce AIR in system- see burping procedure in owner book- its more than just running engine
free owner book download here www.owners.acura.com
it WONT transfer if level in rad is too low for proper suction to occur
MUST top off rad if bottle was low
res bottle fill to COLD/lower line = not full!!!
if res bottle low ck its hose inside cap, ck rad cap condition, pressure test rad, ck fan operation
low coolant level can trick that fan sensor, so start with rad level and go from there
low coolant can introduce AIR in system- see burping procedure in owner book- its more than just running engine
free owner book download here www.owners.acura.com
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 03-29-2015 at 10:54 AM.
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#8
So I topped everything off, including the radiator and now one problem is solved not yet mentioned: My heat would not work until I was moving at a moderate speed. Now it blasts heat at idle.
I did the test mentioned in the above post for testing the ac fan - and BOTH fans turn. So that is not it. So it could be the A switch.
Thinking that possibly both issues have stemmed from low fluid, I am going to leave my car at idle for a while and see if the can kicks on when I turn the car off. If it does not then were good all around I think. If not, then I will purchase the module.
I will report back. Thank you for the help!
I did the test mentioned in the above post for testing the ac fan - and BOTH fans turn. So that is not it. So it could be the A switch.
Thinking that possibly both issues have stemmed from low fluid, I am going to leave my car at idle for a while and see if the can kicks on when I turn the car off. If it does not then were good all around I think. If not, then I will purchase the module.
I will report back. Thank you for the help!
#9
I let the car sit idle after I got home for about five minutes. I turned the car off and the fan did not kick on. It would normally kick on if I let run idle for a minute or so after driving. So maybe both problems were do to low coolant?
I am not convinced the problem listed in post 1 is better yet. I will let try to get it to kick on here and there this week. If it does not, then I think I am fine.
I will report back.
I am not convinced the problem listed in post 1 is better yet. I will let try to get it to kick on here and there this week. If it does not, then I think I am fine.
I will report back.
#10
you are not fine- you have a coolant leak!!
next step is to find out from where
look for color at seams and along the edges of radiator
ck all hose clamps and feel the hoses when cold/warm, any soft spots?
Pressure test the system with loaner tool from parts store
test pressure 16 pounds
ck water pump weep hole on bottom side
Must find out why it lost coolant or you will be replacing the motor at some point~
next step is to find out from where
look for color at seams and along the edges of radiator
ck all hose clamps and feel the hoses when cold/warm, any soft spots?
Pressure test the system with loaner tool from parts store
test pressure 16 pounds
ck water pump weep hole on bottom side
Must find out why it lost coolant or you will be replacing the motor at some point~
#11
Moderator
#12
payj when it sits at a long stoplight or in the driveway at idle- does a fan kick on for about 30 seconds and go back off?
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