guyenacurazine

hi guys i did exactly the steps outlined here, but during suckup of seafoam car died once. I immedately restarted the car and was about the suckup the rest of the car but noticed car's RPM is screwed, now it is fluctuating between 700RPM-1500PM that freaked me out. I became so nervious that out of 8 fl. ounce reserved only sucked up probably 5fl. ounce. and Stopped. I plugged the VAC hose back and waiting about 15-20min and after that I am starting the car. I wonder how the RPM could be screwed like that. Did something like this happened to u guys?

guyenacurazine

now, plugged back the VAC tube back and idle is back to good. But I have expected a white smoke from exhaust pipe, nothing, not a trace of white smoke. I wonder did I miss something or it is clean that it is not puffing a white smoke. Anyways I did 10min 3K-4KRPM drive.

01tl4tl

you freaked out thats all

when you remove hose from the master vac port, the engine will rev like you said- thats how you know you have a vac leak somewhere too~

seafoam needs the warm up drive to get engine hot, then application and wait time of 10 minutes

SMOKE: as I said about a million times before- is a factor of HEAT in the cat to oils that are seafoam
has nothing to do with crud

read last few pages of DIY with my directions and all will be well

99AcuraTL03

got around to doing mine finally.
here's what it looked like when it came out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6f2XViW5_gM

01tl4tl

nice demo of not following startup instructions....
buy hey- it makes smoke!
that means there is heat in the exhaust meeting the oils in seafoam~

99AcuraTL03

eh i read the instructions on here and followed those perfectly. atleast i let it idle for 30 seconds haha

01tl4tl

start engine- let stabilize!--- as seafoam moves thru and more gas returns to system
no revving in driveway~
drive at 2000 rpm low gear until engine runs smoother and will rev to 4000 without issue (a few minutes)
drive at 4000 for a minute then hop in the sideroad or freeway when not crowded and 4000 for 5 minutes (lower gear to maintain legal speeds)
another 5 minutes of sustained rpm and blast from 3000 to 5000 will ensure no leftover crud gets stuck on the O2 sensor

but thats just my way~

kdawg8526

iTrader: (3)

i did mine the proper way this time and i still got a ton of smoke.. i admit last time i didnt follow instruction and just started flooring it leaving trails of smoke

01tl4tl

so seafoam still reacts to heat in the exhaust when done by the book?
a wonder of science I tell you!!

congrats- you have a nice clean system--be sure to run it in the gas too, so the injectors get cleaned from inside to restore mist pattern, the fuel rails etc
1 can to 8 gallons is perfect --just under half tank

01tl4tl

the problem with flooring it too soon is the dilution of seafoam is too great over gas
Sure it will burn,,, but not like gas does, so you are really stressing the engine to rev it wildly with no load (not driving)

as the last of the seafoam residue gets sucked thru the plenums and into the cylinders- it runs smoother and smoother as 100 percent gas takes over--allowing the 4000 rpm burn off drive with no problems

kdawg8526

iTrader: (3)

what about a can of seafoam to just about quarter tank or is that too much

01tl4tl

too much actually

per seafoam tech support: less than 3/4 oz per gallon is ineffective

and More than 2 oz per gal is not doing anything extra,

so 1 can and just under 1/2 tank

01tl4tl

go add a few bucks gas if you already put in a full can~

Fraa

Thanks for the write up, I have always used it on my vehicles, and it was nice to see someone already had a write up.

I opted to not but tubing but use a bendy straw- it fit perfectly and sucked everything right up.

01tl4tl

whatever works!! using the tools you have gets 2 bonus points~ a bendy straw lol

main thing: is to have the hose or the container be `see thru`-
so you keep the hose 1 inch above fluid--
dipping hose end in fluid== thats when problems with backwash start--a giant gulp of seafoam~ and kablam!!!!!

ok to use 1 oz per gal or 1 can to 1 gal short of full tank--
every 5000 miles for maitenance
No reason or purpose to have it in every tank- use brand name gas of 91 octane or 93 if thats what they sell in your town- you are lucky then- the TL is really made for 93

Exception to every tank is heavy snow winters, and fuel gelling at super low temps- seafoam fights that, and lets the water moiture in the fuel pass thru the system

01tl4tl

where did the straw fit perfectly?
not at the master vac port! maybe a smaller normal vac line not approved for seafoam
as it doesnt feed all the cyls

Just to be sure - where did you add the seafoam? --you had to remove engine cover and a hose clamp with pliers not screwdriver- then slide hose off and metal nipple appears- thats the only correct spot beside thru the TB throat itself

Fraa

I used the vac line that was used in this post. I had to bend it a bit to fit in, and once it did, and had vac, it worked great and nothing came out. I knew I sould of taken some pics.

The only reason I tried the straw is that I forgot to get the hose I needed, and had the cover off so I was not about ready to give up.

01tl4tl

there were some bad post in the diy- using a vac line on fenderwell
Thats not right

use the one at the TB to manifold connection as described above

Fraa

I used the one from this post, the vac port by the TB, I already looked into the other way and found out it didn't spread out evenely.

01tl4tl

cool!! just making sure newer members who havent heard --
We need to pull all the old DIYs on seafoam and start fresh
the wrong vac line is a bad thing as it only feeds the rear 3

Spray carb cleaner or deep creep (seafoam aerosol) thru the TB opening to get the throttle control/air plate clean
remove the rubber tube from air filter to TB- use throttle mechanism to open the plate and get both sides and edges really good-
toothbrush clean (if needed as scrubbing tool) is the desired result
thats not in the diy and plays an important part in overall engine operation
Gives you a chance to ck the air filter too

Lube the throttle springs with silicone spray-wd or deep creep.
the adventurous can remove the throttle cables and lube inside them- smooths throttle and cruise control

webmastir

agreed. wish they'd do that sometime. i also with they'd update the DIY list with quite a few of the newer DIYs that have been created. oh well, someday...easier to say it should be done when you're the one not doing it

edde333

I think I am going to have to try this out

01tl4tl

follow the pics and directions on last few pages here
Make sure to use the master vac port at the TB--under the plastic engine cover

kdawg8526

iTrader: (3)

the vacuum on the front side of the tb right? just like the picture in the first post of this thread?

01tl4tl

it varies by year on exact location-which direction its pointed
but its the ONLY hose with a squeeze clamp on it at the TB-manifold connection

when you remove the hose, it will expose a metal nipple attached to the manifold or TB- that you put the seafoam thru
only one like that too~

JRhodes88

iTrader: (2)

01tl4tl would be very proud of me. I PROPERLY seafoamed the car today. Warmed her up, seafoamed, let percolate, drove, done. No CEL and only a short burst of white smoke when I was able to go up to 4k rpm without the engine complaining. I also dumped about 1/4 of the can in to the crankcase to let that work it's way around when I was driving and then immediately changed the oil when she was still hot....(ouch for hot oil )

kdawg8526

iTrader: (3)

is it ok to put a full can in the crank?

JRhodes88

iTrader: (2)

I'm no expert...but i'd say probably not. There is a post earlier from 01tl4tl that says 1/3 of a can.

01tl4tl

according to seafoam 1.5 oz per qt of oil --about 1/3-1/2 can to 5 qts oil
more wont matter- fsttyms1 does it that way for 200k with no issues
but its not doing you any `extra` good- use it somewhere else to better effect

a 30 minute drive (or more) is the most effective at liquifying the crud, and get some runs into vtec so the sliders get cleaned too

remember the TB air plate- remove air tube from filter box to TB and clean both sides and edges of the round plate inside TB- use carb/TB cleaner or deep creep,
lube throttle return spring assembly-deep creep works there too or wd or silicone

been several ziners with a problem in that throttle area, plastic edge breaking and cable issue--clean and lube always helps

01tl4tl

in general- heat and more time, are better than more product -for this discussion

JRhodes88

iTrader: (2)

What is that thing called at Harbor Freight that lubes the throttle cable? Isn't it for motorcycles?

kdawg8526

iTrader: (3)

so about the throttle cable how do i clean it do i jus spray deep creep on it? or do i take a towel and wipe it and everything too

gold2003tl (90)

seafoam in the oil made a big difference for me in smoothness and noise, just dumped a 1/2 of can in the crankcase and went for a drive for about 30 min, then drained and changed the oil.

JRhodes88

iTrader: (2)

RWD <3




Whoops....forgot the top of the trunk - FAIL


Getting sideways has it's downfalls

webmastir

did you throw on a cheap oil filter before doing this? i want to do this on my next oil change, which is the only spot i haven't ever seafoamed, but i really would hate to have to throw one of those on just to go drive for 20-30min.

i use mobile 1 perf filter. i wonder if that's good enough to probably do w/o buying a cheap-o fram for the oil seafoaming..?

JRhodes88

iTrader: (2)

I dont know how I posted those pics from Forza Motorsport thread on the seafoam thread. My bad guys...I was tired, haha.

01tl4tl

the new oil filter method is if you are reviving an old chevy with sludge looking stuff on the dipstick- which none of us should have in the TL!!
then you would install a new filter and drive up to 500 miles/1 month- with daily monitoring of dipstick for sludge

for us -30 minute drive- dont sweat it
my first time used a new filter and 200+ miles to be certain it had lots of time to work (cut open for inspection- yikes there was stuff in the engine!)
,,now I just foam-drive-drain

The amount of crud currently in the filter is the key- look at dipstick.
if its already nearly full of stuff, the amount of crud headed its way will fill it- and cause the bypass valve to open- shutting off the filter from the system and allowing all the crudded oil to circulate and not get captured by the filter
If any concern- throw the 3 buck special on and go for a few drives
its easy~
no matter how good you K&N/M1 filter is- full is full
the more time driving, the better for cleaning oil passages

thats my opinion based on experience and talks with seafoam tech support--JD is their answer man!

01tl4tl

web--30 minutes beats 20 minutes in a big way--that extra time makes a huge differance in what is happening--heat and time are seafoams friend
tech support is adament about that 30 min MINIMUM drive for max results for your money

Im sure 5-10 minutes in driveway as fsttyms1 does helps,, but for my money I want max result

01tl4tl

the cable lube tool- at harbor freight tools is about 3 bucks- maybe 5 if not on sale,,15 at motorcycle store

HFT sells it as a cable lube tool- not specific to bikes, it suggest cables on lawnmower
and other items but is the right size for throttle cables

You spray the throttle springs with carb cleaner or deep creep to remove crud- and wipe up- have towel under it as needed
Now lube the springs with DC or wd or silicone spray

for the cables- measure current tension on the bare wire with finger so you can reset it correctly
remove cables and clamp the tool around end of cable outer shroud
Insert straw from spray lube product into special straw hole on side of clamp-
apply spray until its forced thru and out the other end of cable housing

Move cable in and out as you work to clear buildup of whatever

Note- put rag under gas pedal to catch lube at that end~~ smelly and wet cabin floor is not cool~
Also do cruise control cable

install cables and reset tension
Good time to clean TB air plate, remove snout from air filter box to TB
DC or carb cleaner both sides and edges of air plate- use throttle assembly to open the plate-toothbrush if needed to remove scum

make sure the air plate is fully closing with cables reinstalled, not held open by too much throttle tension
A little cable slack is correct- a 1/4" or so gentle push with finger doesnt move throttle- but any more will open it

gold2003tl (90)

before my oil change (which had OEM honda filter on) i put a 1/2 can of seafoam in, went for a drive, changed oil and filter to purolator pure one. lots of people say fram filters suck, which i think is the what the oem honda filter is.